我非常荣幸能和美丽的丰吉，中国的高端珠宝设计先锋之一进行一次访谈。随着品牌在巴黎和上海的发展，丰吉成为了一位拥有巨大成就感和艺术背景的女性。在2012年于伦敦艺术大学获得珠宝设计硕士学位之后，她没有局限于为英国时尚教父 Alexander McQueen珠宝首饰部门工作，与此同时她还获得了全国钻石分级与宝石鉴定最权威机构--美国宝石学院（G.I.A）宝石专家的资格，以及在École de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris（其在巴黎具百年历史且排名第一的“贵族珠宝私塾”的称号）的潜心研究。她的每件作品，都注入了情感，承载着想象力；同时又不失女性化，具有浪漫的表达，从丰吉对每件作品清晰独到的见解中，不难发现她背后的那一份对作品的深爱以及一份独特的品味。接下来的这些小问题可以带领大家对丰吉以及这个品牌有更多的认识。
I had the pleasure of being able to meet with the beautiful Feng J., one of China’s leading haute jewelry designers. With her brand established in both Paris and Shanghai, she is an incredibly accomplished woman, with an equally impeccable background to boot. Having graduated from the University of Arts London with a Master’s in Jewelry Design in 2012, she moved on to not only work for Alexander McQueen’s jewelry department, but also proceeded to acquire the Graduated Gemologist qualification from the Gemological Institute of America, as well as research European high jewelry craftsmanship in École de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris, one of the oldest and most prestigious jewelry schools in Europe. Yet her remarkable transcript does not quite encapsulate her true enthusiasm for what she does; serene and effortlessly elegant, it is clear to see within her an obvious love and affection for her work in the way her eyes glimmered with a quiet delight and pride as she carefully explained each individual design. Certainly, her designs were undoubtedly made to be talked about - each piece is dazzling, exquisitely intricate, and beautifully unique – quite literally, as each piece is one-of-a-kind.
La Orchidee - necklace/ brooch
8ct rubellite／Imperial icy-crystal jade/ fancy colored sapphire/ diamond/ titanium/18k gold
La printemps – brooch 春天胸针
4.5ct Spinel／mother of pearl carving / tanzanite / aquamarine/ white diamond/ 18k gold
4.5ct 尖晶/ 母贝雕件/坦桑石/海蓝宝/白钻/18k白金
Tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got there.
我是丰吉，一位华人高级珠宝设计师。在2016年，我在巴黎正式创立自己的同名高级珠宝品牌 Feng J. Haute Joaillerie，现在同时在巴黎和上海设立品牌工作室和品鉴沙龙。
I'm Feng J, a high jewelry creator and contemporary jewelry artist. I established my own brand: Feng J. Haute Joaillerie in Paris in 2016, now based in Paris and Shanghai.
When did you first realize you wanted to pursue a career as a jewelry designer?
Since I was very young, I always had a tremendous passion for jewelry design, and considered it as my dream job. Then, when I graduated from U.A.L. (University of the Arts London) with a master’s degree in Jewelry Design, I was invited to put a piece of my jewelry in Poly Auction Hong Kong. I didn't expect that this very first piece made the record of the highest bid of any piece of designer jewelry - even today it still holds the highest price record. I think this gave me a much of the confidence I needed to use as a trigger to seriously start my journey in jewelry design.
Who have been your biggest mentors in this industry? Best advice you’ve received?
事实上我不认为我的启蒙老师不仅仅是指在珠宝行业，我爱慕所有那些具有创意思想的人们比如 Steve Jobs 又比如 Elon Musk，但假设必须从业内选择一个最大的启蒙导师，那那个人肯定是 Joel Arthur Rosentha，他是一个如此有才华的创造家，想象力又是如此的生动和多样性。
Actually I don't think my mentors are from the jewelry industry, I adore all creative, such as Steve Jobs and Elon Musk, but if must choose one in jewelry industry, it would have to be Joel Arthur Rosenthal; he is such an inventor and his creativity so vivid and diverse.
Tell us about your design style; what makes your collections unique in the industry?
My style is encapsulated in my design philosophy: "creating jewelry is like painting with gemstones”. I was born into an artist family, so a natural affinity to fine arts and painting has always been deeply rooted within me. In my eyes, fancy colored stones like rubies, sapphires, emeralds - all are paints on palette. I’m quite inspired by European Impressionism, a movement so fundamentally built upon the employment of light, shade, and reflection. As such, I believe very much in “creating jewelry is like painting with gemstones.”
Le Cygny – Brooch
Crystal Opal / Moon Stone/ Rose-Cut Diamond / White Diamond
18k White Gold
La Orchidee suite – necklace 兰花项链
11.26ct no-heated royal blue sapphire / 17.02ct Crystal Jade / Tanzanite / Blue sapphires / Purple Sapphires / White diamond / Titanium / 18k White Gold
11.26ct 无烧皇家蓝宝石/17.02ct 冰种翡翠/坦桑石/彩色蓝宝石/白钻/钛金属/18白金
What kind of person wears your jewelry?
Feminine and elegant, yet bold
How do you want people to feel when wearing your jewelry?
To feel they are wearing a piece with life and spiritual, instead of just with expensive stones.
As a designer, where do you draw your inspiration from (when working on a new line?)
Travel, reading, and memory.
What’s your favorite part about being a designer?
That at least I can make myself gorgeous by wearing my own designs. Also, I can play with the most beautiful and rarest stones.
What’s the hardest part about being a designer?
Balancing how to make my designs outstanding instead of being dominated by expensive stones, and also the need to make the value of stone amplified by exquisite detail of design at the same time.
Dandelion love– brooch
1.06ct Colombian emerald/ rose-cut diamond/ 18k yellow gold /18k gold
This contemporary style jewelry piece is in the meaning of spreading love to every corner of world, bespoke created for Charity Auction “ Teach for China” Gala.
Leaf of Season – earring 四季叶耳环
White Diamond / Yellow Diamond／18k Yellow Gold／18k White Gold
What are, in your opinion, the upcoming trends in the jewelry industry?
In high jewelry, I think the artistic creativity is always on.
Who are your favorite designers?
In Western world is J.A.R; in Eastern world is Wallace Chan.
What’s your favorite piece that you’ve created so far and why? What makes it so special to you?
The one-of-a-kind necklace "La Orchidée", as this artistic creation is truly made of the spirit with which I dedicate myself to jewelry design. It took me almost a year and a half to work on with top French craftsman; it’s handmade with numerous gemstones, and it uses titanium. Really, it was as an experiment for testing different materials and new techniques, and so to me, the intricate complexity of the whole process is like a reincarnation of beautiful butterfly.
Floral Fairy- ring/necklace pendant花语－戒指／项链吊坠
4.5ct Burmese Unheated Pigeon blood ruby/ ruby/ Imperial icy-crystal jade/ 1.2ct white diamond/ Diamond/ 18k gold
What advice would you give to people wishing to pursue a career in design?
Be your own style.
What does a normal day look like for you?
Work, work, work. But I do enjoy it!
What’s next - what is the future vision for the brand?
We are preparing to set up a private showroom in Place Vendôme, which has never done by any Chinese jewelry designer before - it's kind of dream comes alive - at the very heart place of jewelry kingdom! The future vision is to be the most recognized Chinese jewelry designer brand on the world stage, with my own East-meets-West signature style and essence.