我非常荣幸能和美丽的丰吉，中国的高端珠宝设计先锋之一进行一次访谈。随着品牌在巴黎和上海的发展，丰吉成为了一位拥有巨大成就感和艺术背景的女性。在2012年于伦敦艺术大学获得珠宝设计硕士学位之后，她没有局限于为英国时尚教父 Alexander McQueen珠宝首饰部门工作，与此同时她还获得了全国钻石分级与宝石鉴定最权威机构--美国宝石学院（G.I.A）宝石专家的资格，以及在École de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris（其在巴黎具百年历史且排名第一的“贵族珠宝私塾”的称号）的潜心研究。她的每件作品，都注入了情感，承载着想象力；同时又不失女性化，具有浪漫的表达，从丰吉对每件作品清晰独到的见解中，不难发现她背后的那一份对作品的深爱以及一份独特的品味。接下来的这些小问题可以带领大家对丰吉以及这个品牌有更多的认识。
I had the pleasure of being able to meet with the beautiful Feng J., one of China’s leading haute jewelry designers. With her brand established in both Paris and Shanghai, she is an incredibly accomplished woman, with an equally impeccable background to boot. Having graduated from the University of Arts London with a Master’s in Jewelry Design in 2012, she moved on to not only work for Alexander McQueen’s jewelry department, but also proceeded to acquire the Graduated Gemologist qualification from the Gemological Institute of America, as well as research European high jewelry craftsmanship in École de Bijouterie-Joaillerie de Paris, one of the oldest and most prestigious jewelry schools in Europe. Yet her remarkable transcript does not quite encapsulate her true enthusiasm for what she does; serene and effortlessly elegant, it is clear to see within her an obvious love and affection for her work in the way her eyes glimmered with a quiet delight and pride as she carefully explained each individual design. Certainly, her designs were undoubtedly made to be talked about - each piece is dazzling, exquisitely intricate, and beautifully unique – quite literally, as each piece is one-of-a-kind.
La Orchidee - necklace/ brooch
蝴蝶兰项链／胸针
8ct rubellite／Imperial icy-crystal jade/ fancy colored sapphire/ diamond/ titanium/18k gold
8ct 红碧玺／冰种翡翠雕件／彩色蓝宝石／白钻／钛金属／18k白金
La printemps – brooch 春天胸针
4.5ct Spinel／mother of pearl carving / tanzanite / aquamarine/ white diamond/ 18k gold
4.5ct 尖晶/ 母贝雕件/坦桑石/海蓝宝/白钻/18k白金
跟我们简单讲一讲你自己，包括你的成就以及如何走到今天的。
Tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got there.
我是丰吉，一位华人高级珠宝设计师。在2016年，我在巴黎正式创立自己的同名高级珠宝品牌 Feng J. Haute Joaillerie，现在同时在巴黎和上海设立品牌工作室和品鉴沙龙。
I'm Feng J, a high jewelry creator and contemporary jewelry artist. I established my own brand: Feng J. Haute Joaillerie in Paris in 2016, now based in Paris and Shanghai.
是从什么时候开始你决定正式从事珠宝设计这个领域？
When did you first realize you wanted to pursue a career as a jewelry designer?
自从我很小的时候，我就对珠宝设计产生了浓厚的兴趣，并且把它当作我的理想职业。然后，在我从伦敦艺术大学获的珠宝设计硕士学位后，香港保利邀请我设计的一件作品放在其拍卖珠宝专场上。我没有想到这件名叫“翠魂”，同时也是我的第一个作品会以场内设计师作品最高价成交，-甚至到今天仍然保持着最高价记录。在我看来这给与了我极大的自信同时也激发了我在珠宝设计旅程的开端。
Since I was very young, I always had a tremendous passion for jewelry design, and considered it as my dream job. Then, when I graduated from U.A.L. (University of the Arts London) with a master’s degree in Jewelry Design, I was invited to put a piece of my jewelry in Poly Auction Hong Kong. I didn't expect that this very first piece made the record of the highest bid of any piece of designer jewelry - even today it still holds the highest price record. I think this gave me a much of the confidence I needed to use as a trigger to seriously start my journey in jewelry design.
谁是你业内最大的启蒙导师？你收获的最宝贵的建议是什么?
Who have been your biggest mentors in this industry? Best advice you’ve received?
事实上我不认为我的启蒙老师不仅仅是指在珠宝行业，我爱慕所有那些具有创意思想的人们比如 Steve Jobs 又比如 Elon Musk，但假设必须从业内选择一个最大的启蒙导师，那那个人肯定是 Joel Arthur Rosentha，他是一个如此有才华的创造家，想象力又是如此的生动和多样性。
Actually I don't think my mentors are from the jewelry industry, I adore all creative, such as Steve Jobs and Elon Musk, but if must choose one in jewelry industry, it would have to be Joel Arthur Rosenthal; he is such an inventor and his creativity so vivid and diverse.
讲讲你的作品风格吧，是什么让你的作品变得独一无二？
Tell us about your design style; what makes your collections unique in the industry?
我的风格更像是印象派绘画，就像一句话说的“用宝石为颜料来画画”。我出生于一个艺术世家，，家传源玺的收藏让我从小就充满了艺术的熏陶。在我看来，光彩斑斓的宝石比如红宝石，蓝宝石，绿宝石-都是是画板上的颜料。一定程度上来说我被欧洲印象派感染，强调光影，层次，色彩斑斓。因此我也很相信“用宝石为颜料来画画”这种说法。
My style is encapsulated in my design philosophy: "creating jewelry is like painting with gemstones”. I was born into an artist family, so a natural affinity to fine arts and painting has always been deeply rooted within me. In my eyes, fancy colored stones like rubies, sapphires, emeralds - all are paints on palette. I’m quite inspired by European Impressionism, a movement so fundamentally built upon the employment of light, shade, and reflection. As such, I believe very much in “creating jewelry is like painting with gemstones.”
Le Cygny – Brooch
天鹅胸针
Crystal Opal / Moon Stone/ Rose-Cut Diamond / White Diamond
18k White Gold
水晶澳宝／月光石／玫瑰切钻石／白钻／18k 白金
La Orchidee suite – necklace 兰花项链
11.26ct no-heated royal blue sapphire / 17.02ct Crystal Jade / Tanzanite / Blue sapphires / Purple Sapphires / White diamond / Titanium / 18k White Gold
11.26ct 无烧皇家蓝宝石/17.02ct 冰种翡翠/坦桑石/彩色蓝宝石/白钻/钛金属/18白金
什么样的人适合佩戴你的珠宝？
What kind of person wears your jewelry?
女性化，优雅，但是大胆的
Feminine and elegant, yet bold
你想让人们在佩戴你的珠宝的时候有什么样的感受？
How do you want people to feel when wearing your jewelry?
我希望她们在戴着我设计的珠宝的时候能感受到一份生命的力量和灵魂，而不仅仅是块昂贵高价的石头。
To feel they are wearing a piece with life and spiritual, instead of just with expensive stones.
作为一个设计师，（当开辟一个新设计的时候）你通常从什么地方汲取灵感？
As a designer, where do you draw your inspiration from (when working on a new line?)
从旅行，阅读还有记忆中获取灵感。
Travel, reading, and memory.
成为一个设计师后你最爱的关于这份职业的一个部分是什么？
What’s your favorite part about being a designer?
我可以戴着自己设计的艺术品让我变的光彩照人。同时，我还可以和世界上最美丽稀有的石头打交道。
That at least I can make myself gorgeous by wearing my own designs. Also, I can play with the most beautiful and rarest stones.
成为一个设计师最艰难的部分是什么？
What’s the hardest part about being a designer?
在把我的设计变的光彩照人而不是被一块昂贵的石头所支配驱使之间取得平衡，于此同时也要使这块原石升华它本有的价值。
Balancing how to make my designs outstanding instead of being dominated by expensive stones, and also the need to make the value of stone amplified by exquisite detail of design at the same time.
Dandelion love– brooch
蒲公英之爱胸针
1.06ct Colombian emerald/ rose-cut diamond/ 18k yellow gold /18k gold
1.06ct 哥伦比亚祖母绿／玫瑰切钻石／18k黄金／18k白金
This contemporary style jewelry piece is in the meaning of spreading love to every corner of world, bespoke created for Charity Auction “ Teach for China” Gala.
Leaf of Season – earring 四季叶耳环
White Diamond / Yellow Diamond／18k Yellow Gold／18k White Gold
白钻／黄钻／18k黄金／18k 白金
在你看来，珠宝行业的新趋势是什么？
What are, in your opinion, the upcoming trends in the jewelry industry?
在高级珠宝行业，我认为艺术创意性一直是一脉相承的。
In high jewelry, I think the artistic creativity is always on.
谁是你最喜欢的设计师？
Who are your favorite designers?
西方的话是J.A.R；东方的话是Wallace Chan。
In Western world is J.A.R; in Eastern world is Wallace Chan.
哪件事你最喜欢的自己设计的珠宝？是什么让它对你意义非凡？
What’s your favorite piece that you’ve created so far and why? What makes it so special to you?
一条叫"La Orchidée"独一无二的一条项链，当时我全身心地投入到这件艺术品中，大概和法国顶级工匠一起花了一年半的时间才完成；它是一件由无数颗宝石组成的作品，同时也用到了钛金属。说真的，这件作品真的历经无数试验包括不同的工艺和材质，而且对我而言它就像是一只美丽的蝴蝶的完美再生。
The one-of-a-kind necklace "La Orchidée", as this artistic creation is truly made of the spirit with which I dedicate myself to jewelry design. It took me almost a year and a half to work on with top French craftsman; it’s handmade with numerous gemstones, and it uses titanium. Really, it was as an experiment for testing different materials and new techniques, and so to me, the intricate complexity of the whole process is like a reincarnation of beautiful butterfly.
Floral Fairy- ring/necklace pendant花语－戒指／项链吊坠
4.5ct Burmese Unheated Pigeon blood ruby/ ruby/ Imperial icy-crystal jade/ 1.2ct white diamond/ Diamond/ 18k gold
4.5ct 缅甸无烧鸽血红／红宝石／冰种翡翠雕件／白钻／18k白金
对于以设计为职业的群体你有什么样的建议吗？
What advice would you give to people wishing to pursue a career in design?
做你自己就好。
Be your own style.
你的一天是什么样的？
What does a normal day look like for you?
工作，工作，再工作。但是我乐在其中！
Work, work, work. But I do enjoy it!
对于丰吉这个品牌，你对它有什么未来的计划和设想？
What’s next - what is the future vision for the brand?
我们准备在Place Vendôme设立一个私人的陈列室，这在中国设计师中是史无前例的第一次-这就像是梦想成真的感觉一样-在珠宝王国的心脏！我的未来的设想是成为世界上最有辨识度的中国珠宝设计师，并用我中西方结合的思想和设计理念把我的品牌进一步推广到全世界。
We are preparing to set up a private showroom in Place Vendôme, which has never done by any Chinese jewelry designer before - it's kind of dream comes alive - at the very heart place of jewelry kingdom! The future vision is to be the most recognized Chinese jewelry designer brand on the world stage, with my own East-meets-West signature style and essence.
