Gianvito Rossi | 《尚流TATLER》中文官方网站

Query	Affected	Num. rows	Took (ms)	Actions
SELECT `Brand`.`id`, `Brand`.`created`, `Brand`.`modified`, `Brand`.`status`, `Brand`.`publish_at`, `Brand`.`unpublish_at`, `Brand`.`name`, `Brand`.`description`, `Brand`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Brand`.`seo_meta_description`, `Brand`.`slug`, `Brand`.`tid` FROM `at_cn`.`brands` AS `Brand` WHERE `Brand`.`slug` = 'gianvito-rossi' LIMIT 1	1	1	3	maybe slow
SELECT `Product`.`id`, `Product`.`created`, `Product`.`modified`, `Product`.`status`, `Product`.`publish_at`, `Product`.`unpublish_at`, `Product`.`brand_id`, `Product`.`category`, `Product`.`website`, `Product`.`price`, `Product`.`pick_of_the_day`, `Product`.`title`, `Product`.`deck`, `Product`.`description`, `Product`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Product`.`seo_meta_description`, `Product`.`slug`, `Product`.`theme_id`, `Product`.`nid`, `Product`.`pview`, `ShoppingTheme`.`id`, `ShoppingTheme`.`created`, `ShoppingTheme`.`modified`, `ShoppingTheme`.`status`, `ShoppingTheme`.`publish_at`, `ShoppingTheme`.`unpublish_at`, `ShoppingTheme`.`title`, `ShoppingTheme`.`description`, `ShoppingTheme`.`tags`, `ShoppingTheme`.`stick_to_top_panel`, `ShoppingTheme`.`stick_to_top_panel_until`, `ShoppingTheme`.`stick_to_landing_top`, `ShoppingTheme`.`stick_to_landing_top_until`, `ShoppingTheme`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `ShoppingTheme`.`seo_meta_description`, `ShoppingTheme`.`slug`, `ShoppingTheme`.`author`, `ShoppingTheme`.`nid`, `ShoppingTheme`.`pview`, `Image`.`id`, `Image`.`name`, `Image`.`filesize`, `Image`.`type`, `Image`.`caption`, `Image`.`object_type`, `Image`.`object_id`, `Image`.`source`, `Image`.`square_url`, `Image`.`square300_url`, `Image`.`square120_url`, `Image`.`thumb_url`, `Image`.`banner_url`, `Image`.`large_url`, `Image`.`popup_url`, `Image`.`h195_url`, `Image`.`carousel_large_url`, `Image`.`created`, `Image`.`alt`, `Image`.`people`, `Image`.`tags`, `Image`.`sort`, `Image`.`status`, `Image`.`publish_at`, `Image`.`unpublish_at`, `Image`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Image`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`products` AS `Product` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`shopping_themes` AS `ShoppingTheme` ON (`Product`.`theme_id` = `ShoppingTheme`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`images` AS `Image` ON (`Image`.`object_id` = `Product`.`id` AND `Image`.`object_type` = 'product') WHERE `Product`.`brand_id` = 500 AND `Product`.`status` = '1' AND `Product`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Product`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Product`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) ORDER BY `Product`.`publish_at` DESC LIMIT 10	1	1	3	maybe slow
SELECT COUNT(*) AS `count` FROM `at_cn`.`products` AS `Product` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`shopping_themes` AS `ShoppingTheme` ON (`Product`.`theme_id` = `ShoppingTheme`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`images` AS `Image` ON (`Image`.`object_id` = `Product`.`id` AND `Image`.`object_type` = 'product') WHERE `Product`.`brand_id` = 500 AND `Product`.`status` = '1' AND `Product`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Product`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Product`.`unpublish_at` > NOW())	1	1	3	maybe slow

Message	Memory use
Component initialization	1.83 MB
Controller action start	2.71 MB
Controller render start	4.74 MB
View render complete	5.51 MB

Message	Time in ms	Graph
Core Processing (Derived from $_SERVER["REQUEST_TIME"])	8.32
Event: Controller.initialize	13.41
Event: Controller.startup	1.22
Controller action	115.01
Event: Controller.beforeRender	36.82
» Processing toolbar data	36.68
Rendering View	8.23
» Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Products/brand_view.ctp	1.52
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_elements_pop_enews_session.ctp	0.09
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_stylesheets.ctp	0.36
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_content_guide_brandview.ctp	0.64
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_breadcrumb.ctp	0.16
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_subscribe_letter.ctp	0.08
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_breadcrumb.ctp #2	0.10
» Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Layouts/site.ctp	6.08
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_meta.ctp	0.15
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_fbmeta.ctp	0.08
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_stylesheets.ctp #2	0.27
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_javascripts.ctp	0.54
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_javascripts_facebook.ctp	0.07
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_javascripts_twitter.ctp	0.07
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_javascripts_openx.ctp	0.09
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_javascript_after.ctp	0.40
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_ga.ctp	0.09
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_ads.ctp	0.08
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_ads.ctp #2	0.05
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_ads.ctp #3	0.05
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_header.ctp	2.14
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_header_holder.ctp	0.53
» » » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_tatler_countries.ctp	0.09
» » » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_social_icons.ctp	0.08
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_sticky_menu.ctp	1.42
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_main.ctp	0.08
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_footer.ctp	0.74
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_social_icons.ctp #2	0.07
» » » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_tatler_countries.ctp #2	0.07
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_javascripts_openx.ctp #2	0.06
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_ads.ctp #4	0.06
» » Rendering APP/View/Themed/Tatler/Elements/site_subscribe_letter.ctp #2	0.11

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 - title婚礼穿什么？写给男士的婚礼穿著指南
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 - content无论是新郎，伴郎还是婚礼嘉宾，在这个重特殊的日子里，得体的着装才能令你保持最佳状态。随着婚礼季的到来，男士该如何挑选婚礼服装？你需要以下建议。 晨礼服 晨礼服仍然是英国婚礼上被广泛接受的着装要求。这套正装由细长的人字羊毛制成的经典黑色燕尾服，搭配条纹或犬牙纹长裤、以及对比色调的单排或双排扣马甲组成。通常保留给皇家的三件套灰色晨礼服也可以成为新郎的替代选择。 <img src="/files/img/20170502150444-111Shot-1_0063e-28crop-at-knee29_resized_773x517.jpg" alt="111Shot-1_0063e-(crop-at-knee).jpg" width="773" height="517" /> Ede＆Ravenscroft 一件传统的带有可拆卸衣领的的衬衫搭配丝绸领带。裤子应该稍稍高于腰部，裤脚在鞋子的顶部，裤子前方有一条轻微的裤线，裤子的后面在鞋跟的上方。灰色或黑色的礼帽并非必需，但应始终在婚礼上携带。 黑领结（Black Tie） 黑领结在婚礼上变得越来越普遍，并会在请柬中注明。传统的黑领结由黑色高腰翻领的羊毛晚装外套，晚装长裤以及配有黑色领结的白衬衫构成。 <img src="/files/img/20170502150221-BLACKTIE_02e_resized_400x600.jpg" alt="BLACK TIE_02e.jpg" width="400" height="600" /> Ede＆Ravenscroft 婚礼西装 通常，对于更现代的或城市婚礼而言，西装是晨礼服的替代品，有各种颜色和面料的选择。外套的款式是个人喜好，单排双扣或三扣外套是最受欢迎的选项。新郎可能希望在造型中有更多的乐趣，也许会通过不同的翻领形状或口袋细节来进行个性化选择。 <img src="/files/img/20170502150222-Shot-3_0429e_resized_399x599.jpg" alt="Shot-3_0429e.jpg" width="399" height="599" /> 彩色，深蓝色，中灰色和木炭色是最安全和最通用的颜色，但不要害怕根据您的个人品味，风格和婚礼主题来玩色调。布料的类型也是一个重要的考虑因素，较浅色调的棉和亚麻布，为目的地婚礼或夏季婚礼提供了更多的选择。 <img src="/files/img/20170502151220-222Shot-5_740e_resized_773x580.jpg" alt="222Shot-5_740e.jpg" width="773" height="580" />Ede＆Ravenscroft 配件饰品 晨礼服的衬衫应该有一个厚重的衣领，如果衬衫衣领比较简单，则可以搭配婚礼西装。平扣或法式扣是个人的选择，但衬衫袖口应该不超过西装或礼服的袖口半英寸。 婚礼马甲也有穿着规范，如果穿双排扣马甲，则底部按钮应保持松开。他们应该舒适地位于腰带之上，完全遮盖衬衫。许多新郎喜欢穿着不同颜色的马甲，以脱颖而出，参加婚礼派对的其他环节。 当涉及到正装鞋类时，请保持简洁而优雅，搭配经典的牛津鞋，就像Sweeney系带鞋，或者是适合于黑领结或白领结的Overton专利鞋。 优雅的饰品配件是个性化您的婚礼外观的轻松方式。从豪华的丝绸领带，到经典的口袋巾，以及独特的袖扣，都能为你的婚礼装扮增色不少。 《尚流TATLER》的小建议： <ul style="list-style-type: disc;"> <li>与新娘一起检查配色方案！</li> <li>不要比婚礼派对更正式。如有疑问，请在邀请函上查看着装要求。</li> <li>不要解开双排扣晚礼服。</li> <li>晨礼服下摆应该到膝关节。</li> <li>不要在最后一刻才定做西装</li> </ul> 如果想寻求独一无二的精美套装，你可以尝试Ede＆Ravenscroft的量身定做或个人定制服务： Ede＆Ravenscroft是伦敦最古老的服装店，并在1689年获得了第一个皇家委认状，当时被委托制作威廉和玛丽加冕的长袍。 Ede＆Ravenscroft致力于提供建立了其声誉的传统价值观，持有三个皇家授权，并为世界各地的男士和女士制作优质的服装。 量身定做：Ede＆Ravenscroft 的裁缝将为你量体裁衣，手工制作精美独特的服装，完美贴合您的个人风格。 个人定制：在技术顾问的指导下，你以选择广泛的布料，饰面和款式，为自己定制与众不同的西装。 详询：<a href="https://www.edeandravenscroft.com/" target="_blank">www.edeandravenscroft.com</a>
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 - content首届上海时尚周末（Fashion Weekend）于4月14日精彩亮相上海展览中心，为期三天的首创“浸入式”时尚狂欢活动终于揭开神秘面纱。本次活动顺应大众消费结构升级的趋势，以青年一代的全新“体验”为理念，力邀时尚、音乐、艺术大咖助阵，革新地将时装秀场、买手圣地、交互文化艺术展等创意结合，在拉近时尚和年轻消费者距离的同时，打造整合产品、内容和服务为一体的生活方式大IP，邀请全民齐“浸 Fashion”，连续三天每天9小时即看即买即秀玩转时尚。黄晓明，姚晨，张亮，奚梦瑶，苏芒，冯楚轩等明星以及业内大咖都纷纷为活动点赞。 <img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/files/img/20170417154240-E9809AE7A8BF-E697B6E5B09AE4B8BAE4BABAE6B091E69C8DE58AA1E6ADA3E5BC8FE5BC80E590AFE4B880E8B5B7_E6B5B8Fashion_Final-Compressed-1_resized_714x602.jpg" alt="通稿-时尚为人民服务正式开启一起_浸Fashion_Final-Compressed-1.jpg" width="714" height="602" /> 由左⾄右领导及嘉宾：上海市商务委员会市场体系建设处处⻓周岚、奚梦瑶、Lyn Slater、上海市静安区副区⻓周海鹰、上海时装周组委会副主任/上海市商务委员会副主任刘敏、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、上海市静安区商务委员会主任任少南 国内外明星大咖助阵，陪你一起“浸 Fashion” 时尚周末携手各界明星和大咖，为沪上热爱时尚的年轻群体，奉献一场世界顶级水平的先锋的“浸入式”展览和时尚狂欢，各界明星大咖更是以全新形式，和大众互动： 64岁的银发博主Lyn Slater将在Fashion Lab这一全方位交流平台中，提出了自己的主张——时尚即为你的生活态度，永远没有为时过晚一说。她通过分享自己的故事，用国际的视角阐述“时尚为⼈民服务”这一理念；魔都潮⼈李怡霖也将向观众述说其“亚文化”纹身的故事；网红“鼻祖”陈星如更将在此畅谈其网红进化史；著名歌手袁娅维不仅带来现场表演，更聊起音乐背后的故事。国际超模奚梦瑶，也亲身体验“浸入式”跨界合作，于时尚周末首发其携手携程的跨界设计作品，并亲临现场和到场观众亲密互动。 <img src="/files/img/20170417154306-E9809AE7A8BF-E697B6E5B09AE4B8BAE4BABAE6B091E69C8DE58AA1E6ADA3E5BC8FE5BC80E590AFE4B880E8B5B7_E6B5B8Fashion_Final-Compressed-3_resized_621x414.jpg" alt="通稿-时尚为人民服务正式开启一起_浸Fashion_Final-Compressed-3.jpg" width="621" height="414" /> 由左⾄右嘉宾：永柏盛业影视基⾦管理合伙人马骏、奚梦瑶、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、中润基⾦总裁齐英 <img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/files/img/20170417154307-E9809AE7A8BF-E697B6E5B09AE4B8BAE4BABAE6B091E69C8DE58AA1E6ADA3E5BC8FE5BC80E590AFE4B880E8B5B7_E6B5B8Fashion_Final-Compressed-4_resized_623x832.jpg" alt="通稿-时尚为人民服务正式开启一起_浸Fashion_Final-Compressed-4.jpg" width="623" height="832" /> 银发时尚博主Lyn Slater 国内外知名时尚品牌和新秀设计师加盟，即秀即买过足“买手”瘾 国际著名时装设计师MASHA MA带来最新MASHAMA X LOFi 17秋冬系列，让普通大众也能感受国际时装周头排看秀的体验，融入了CyberPunk科技感廓形和材质的设计作品，也呈现出千禧一代推崇个性和冒险的精神态度，也使时尚大秀真真正正地“为⼈民服务”。 <img style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" src="/files/img/20170417154403-DSC_1172_resized_773x516.jpg" alt="DSC_1172.jpg" width="773" height="516" /><img src="/files/img/20170417154403-DSC_0919_resized_773x516.jpg" alt="DSC_0919.jpg" width="773" height="516" /> 作为中国第一家专业的Showroom，时堂携手时尚周末，不仅带领设计师和品牌试水直面消费者市场，还让大众过把“时尚买手”瘾。鹦鹉螺市集和意大利买手制百货COSCIA带来的一线大牌惊喜低价，切实直观地让时尚为人民服务这一理念的落地开花。 时尚是艺术的一部分，而艺术则是生活的一种形式。上海时尚周末通过一系列活动，激发普通人对于时尚的思考、对美好生活的向往和对未来的期待，这种自上而下的思考和参与，正是“时尚为⼈民服务”的内涵所在。 <img src="/files/img/20170417154405-DSC_0940_resized_773x516.jpg" alt="DSC_0940.jpg" width="773" height="516" /> 浸入式的文化艺术盛宴，将“生活艺术化”落地开花 为了呈现一场全方位的时尚感官盛宴，各界艺术家也纷纷“各显神通”，令广大看客不虚此⾏：作为两度斩获格莱美奖的音乐家，Dana Leong与国际知名品牌、艺⼈广泛开展合作，此次也积极加入到时尚周末，更是要和沪上的年轻大众“合作”——通过百⼈冥想的Work-Shop,传达他对时尚周末“浸入式”观点的认同：任何文化艺术形式，只有大众的亲身参与，才能拥有更大的能量和意义。 艺术家宋洋携其艺术作品形象“Bad Girl”也倾力加入上海时尚周末，展现新自由主义的生活态度，和自我且主见的女性先锋认知。 除此之外，各类“浸入式”惊喜9小时不间断，大大提高了活动的趣味性和参与度：DJ音乐狂欢、近距离接触芝麻街卡通巨型⼈偶、交换神秘面具、免费领养多肉植物，更有拳击互动体验、助力公益事业。 <img src="/files/img/20170417154404-DSC_1142_resized_773x516.jpg" alt="DSC_1142.jpg" width="773" height="516" /><img src="/files/img/20170417154404-DSC_1010_resized_773x516.jpg" alt="DSC_1010.jpg" width="773" height="516" /><img src="/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_resized_773x516.jpg" alt="DSC_1263.jpg" width="773" height="516" /> 时尚周末将时尚元素从其固有环境中剥离，从参观者体验的角度出发，一方面还原时装设计的人文和社会属性，另一方面赋予参观者体会和掌握时尚脉动的力量，挑战每个人的时尚理念乃至时尚消费方式。 
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 - title淡然之美 | 听李晓玲艺述美好
 - deck她出生于贵族世家，多年旅居法国，并游走世界各地捕获艺术灵感；她敏感而富有爱心，常年关注慈善教育；她树立了独特鲜明的个人风格，备受品牌青睐，成为艺术文化传播的使者；她闪亮耀眼，出现在时尚杂志里的次数并不亚于明星…… 著名艺术家李晓玲由内而外地散发着名流气息，曾经的荣誉和成就在她身上凝聚成一种沉淀过后的淡然之美。常年在世界各地到处行走，让她更加珍惜在每一个地方的时光。
 - author《尚流TATLER》四月刊
 - content在李晓玲最近的一条朋友圈中，她写道：“如果你只是等待，发生的事情只会是你变老了。”从最早以“京城四大名媛”之一的身份出现在大众的视野中，至今多年的时光中，她一直都没有停下自己探索世界和发现自我的脚步。作为一名女性艺术家，李晓玲将自己的触角延伸到世界，在生活感悟中汲取艺术灵感。她行走各地，在思想意识上彻底敞开自己，与不同的人和建筑对话，将每次的感悟凝练在自己的绘画中。 <img src="/files/img/20170401101440-img56_resized_773x1033.jpg" alt="img56.jpg" width="492" height="657" />艺术让人自由并富有力量 多年前，李晓玲旅居法国，她乐此不疲地参观各大美术馆和画廊的展览，发现西方的油画作品和东方的水墨画之间迥异的差别。她所坚持的水墨画意境看似很简洁，却是中华5000年历史文化的沉淀。李晓玲开始将东方的哲学思想结合西方的绘画材料进行创作，这条国际化的艺术之路，让更多的西方人了解到东方文化艺术的智慧，李晓玲的创新艺术风格从而也被称为“新古典主义”。而这种传统文化与现代技法的相融，在她看来只是艺术的一种技法和表现形式，艺术家最重要的还是要多去观察和感受，然后真实地表达自我思想和意识，包括对人、对环境、对社会及对未来的思考。 多年艺术创作的坚持和沉淀，使得李晓玲获得过诸多奖项，其中不乏“意大利但丁荣誉勋章”、入选《世界华人艺术家成就大典》等殊荣。在这众多的成就中，李晓玲更看重的是这些称号背后的公平和专业性，行业大奖的鼓励和认可更坚定了她自己的艺术使命，使她成为一个不断完善自我的女性。艺术带给了李晓玲无限的力量，就像她一直强调的独立女性理想：“做一个独立的女人首先要思想独立，有主见、有自己的人生观、价值观；有上进心，永远不放弃自己的理想；做一份自己喜爱的事业，拥有快乐和成就感。自由建立在一定的经济基础之上，实现经济上的独立，从而掌控自己的命运和未来，不依赖男人、自强自立的女人才更自信，更有人格魅力！” <img src="/files/img/20170401101439-img61_resized_773x1033.jpg" alt="img61.jpg" width="465" height="621" />马背上的艺术与生活 在李晓玲的艺术作品中，马是她尤为喜爱的一个创作元素。她经常骑马，观察马的眼睛和身形，用自己的方式和独有的艺术语言来描绘心中的马。在她看来，马不仅外形健美，其坚毅的精神更让人动容，马天生就是为奔跑而生的。这种对马的无限热衷和种种渊源，还使得她获得了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的“驭马锋尚大使”称号。 回忆起3年前第一次在上海观看赛马的经历，李晓玲依然记忆犹新。她参与的CHC所主持的第一个CECF驭马文化节的公益项目称为“马被上的艺术”，CHC首开先河，创意地把马被与现代艺术画作结合。马被一般会披在冠军马的身上，而艺术画作被复制于马被上，于赛事日前一晚进行慈善拍卖，充分发挥了其艺术的社会价值。当马赛当天，冠军马跑完全程来到李晓玲的身边，全身湿透的样子让她感到极为震撼——马背上披着她亲手绘制的冠军艺术毯，还带着兴奋的眼神。李晓玲第一次在动物身上发现那样的眼神和气质，几乎和一个意志坚定的人没什么区别，这让她更加喜欢和欣赏马，更深入地去了解马的身份和角色。 隔年，李晓玲再次受邀参与2015 CECF新加坡驭马文化节的慈善鸡尾酒会，在新加坡地标之一的滨海湾金沙艺术科学博物馆内，与其他5位来自中国、法国及爱尔兰的艺术家们共同展示了约20件的艺术作品，并在当晚作慈善拍卖。而恰巧在2015 CECF新加坡驭马文化节举办前夕，她也获得CHC的大力支持，赞助了她在法国巴黎小皇宫举办的个展《面怀美好2》，部分在新加坡展出的画作就是从法国个展结束后空运而至的。2016年鄂尔多斯国际驭马文化节上，她还策划邀请了其他四位画家无偿贡献个人珍藏画作参与慈善拍卖，所得善款均用于支持中国残疾人联合会及高校的人才培养。 谈起与CHC杰士马主俱乐部的结缘，李晓玲感慨万分：“我在一个机缘巧合的情况下认识了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的创始人张祖德主席。张主席是一位非常具有远见卓识及魄力的绅士。我记得张主席曾经告诉我说，他的父亲在离世前曾经叮咛他，若有一天他在事业上有所成就后，一定要回到祖国贡献其力量。同时，张主席也是一名著名的建筑设计师，毕业于美国哈佛大学，他在2010年的时候在迪拜完成了世界最大、最奢华的赛马场——迈丹赛马场；由此张主席看到了国内马产业巨大的发展空间及与国际接轨上的距离，所以促使他带着本身的专业回到他父亲的故土，希望能够以自己的绵力贡献力量。这让我为之震动及钦佩。” 与慈善及艺术文化结合一直是CHC所推崇的，通过CHC杰士马主俱乐部基金会致力于推动中国赛马产业的发展：与国内高校合作；增进中国年轻骑师人才的技能培训和发展；帮助有特殊需要的孩童；为他们提供机遇平台与资金扶持。这种大爱的精神，更加坚定了李晓玲投身其中的决心，这在她看来是非常有意义和价值的，也是她特别愿意去做的事情。 <img src="/files/img/20170401101441-img96_resized_773x1035.jpg" alt="img96.jpg" width="481" height="644" />“王者运动”带来的格局和质感 在李晓玲的印象中，速度赛马在西方国家是一个已经融入社会的文化象征，像闻名世界的英国爱斯科特赛马嘉年华、澳大利亚墨尔本杯及美国育马者杯等盛事，已经不全然只是一个赛马运动而已。每年，因赛场上的美食、时尚、慈善活动慕名而来的观众不胜枚举，俨然形成了一个城市甚至是国家的品牌号召力。CHC杰士马主俱乐部所发起的CECF驭马文化节，先后连续四年在内蒙古呼和浩特、内蒙古鄂尔多斯、上海、湖北武汉及新加坡盛大举办。李晓玲参与了每一届的驭马文化节，伴随着四年来驭马文化节不断的成长和进展，她感受到马场上文娱时尚的优雅气息。在她看来，赛马不仅仅只是一项运动，更是一种深层次、高品质生活风尚的呈现。 自成为CHC驭马锋尚大使后，李晓玲更加深入地了解到速度赛马世界的广阔天地和更高格局，并有机会结识了各界翘楚精英，同时她也借以艺术的力量，推动速度赛马运动的传播。“众所周知，速度赛马是一项‘王者运动’，一直以来得到许多王室成员与上流社会的喜爱。赛马场上所展现的速度激情、华美的时尚和千金难买的胜利感觉，无不让生活变得更加有质感。通过CHC，我更深刻地认识到，这除了是一个让人着迷的运动之外，也是一个具有商业价值的投资。CHC的种马基金为有志趣相投的人提供一个入场通道，为投资者们带来有吸引力的投资模式。”李晓玲如是说。艺术来源于生活，CHC不同主题的会员活动给了李晓玲体验生活的无限可能性：“在私享晚宴上，汇聚各方好友一起交流分享，这也丰富了我的社交生活；除此之外，CHC也组织观摩团，到世界各地参与顶级的赛马盛事，这也打开了我的视野。因为作为一名艺术家，尽情体验生活，细心观察事物，才能创作出好的作品。” 艺术引路人 去年，李晓玲曾为一个驻留儿童的公益学校教课，她甚至还自己设计了一套教材和教学方法。开始她一直在思考从6岁到12岁的年龄跨度，怎么样的教课和沟通方式才会让这些孩子更能接受和开心。真正到课堂上之后，李晓玲跟孩子们就像朋友一样地相处，她真诚地尊重和关注每一个孩子的心理。这种沟通方式带给李晓玲很多的感悟：“即使这些孩子们的性格迥异，有内向也有外向，但他们下课都会围在我身边，问我什么时候才能再回去给他们上课。这说明我至少还算是比较受欢迎的老师，欣慰之余我获得了极大的满足和开心，我认为真正的快乐是帮助了别人，他们传达给你的信息会让人更开心、更难忘。” 在这个过程中，李晓玲同时深切感受到：绘画创作中的想象力，对孩子来说非常重要。小时候如果能受到艺术上的熏陶可以帮助他们开发创造意识，养成创造的习惯之后，才可以真正地创造自己的未来，改变自己的命运和生活，如果能帮助他们获取更多的创造能力和意识，对于他们的未来是具有引导性的。目前她最大的心愿，是把自己所知道的绘画技能，教给更多的年轻人，特别是贫困山区的孩子。“我觉得慈善是做好一个引路人，让他们自己去创造未来、改变生活。”五一劳动节后，李晓玲会继续到贫困山区，用自己的方式教小朋友画画。她想亲眼看到在自己的引导下，孩子们的意识和创造力可以得到多大的改变。她甚至决定将此作为一种研究，会一直坚持做这件事情。 同时，作为一位女性艺术家，继续举办全球性的个人展览之余，关注中国乃至全球女性的她还有另外一个计划：成立一个全球杰出女性俱乐部，帮助更多女性在平台上有更多交流和合作。去年在法国的时候，她遇到很多当地的创业女性，希望把她们设计的作品推广到中国，但苦于没有途径。“如果有了这个平台，她们就很容易找到可以合作的人。虽然我是中国的艺术家，但如果这能帮助到全球更多的女性，将是我非常开心的事情。” 
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 - titleBVLGARI巴塞尔表展吴亦凡现身引超高人气
 - deck宝格丽2017瑞士巴塞尔国际钟表珠宝展的旅程画上句号。宝格丽创新突破，成为此次表展上亮点颇多的品牌。
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 - content<hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165818-1_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E4BDA9E688B4OctoFinissomoAutomaticE587BAE5B8ADE5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDE696B0E59381E58F91E5B883E4BC9A_resized_773x1160.jpg" alt="1_吴亦凡佩戴Octo Finissomo Automatic出席宝格丽新品发布会.jpg" width="468" height="702" /> 吴亦凡佩戴 Octo Finissomo Automatic出席宝格丽新品发布会 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165759-2_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E4BDA9E688B4OctoFinissomoAutomaticE587BAE5B8ADE5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDE696B0E59381E58F91E5B883E4BC9A_resized_773x1159.jpg" alt="2_吴亦凡佩戴Octo Finissomo Automatic出席宝格丽新品发布会.jpg" width="462" height="693" /> <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165804-4_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E4B88EJean-ChristopheBabin2CJonKortajarenaE587BAE5B8ADE5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDE696B0E59381E58F91E5B883E4BC9A_resized_773x515.jpg" alt="4_吴亦凡与Jean-Christophe Babin, Jon Kortajarena出席宝格丽新品发布会.jpg" width="773" height="515" /> 吴亦凡与 Jean-Christophe Babin, Jon Kortajarena出席宝格丽新品发布会 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165812-5_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E587BAE5B8ADE585A8E79083E5AA92E4BD93E8A781E99DA2E4BC9A_resized_773x1160.jpg" alt="5_吴亦凡出席全球媒体见面会.jpg" width="482" height="723" /> 吴亦凡出席全球媒体见面会 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165810-6_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E587BAE5B8ADE585A8E79083E5AA92E4BD93E8A781E99DA2E4BC9A_resized_773x515.jpg" alt="6_吴亦凡出席全球媒体见面会.jpg" width="773" height="515" /> <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165847-9_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E8A782E8B58FE5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDE88595E8A1A8E696B0E59381E5B195_resized_773x515.jpg" alt="9_吴亦凡观赏宝格丽腕表新品展.jpg" width="773" height="515" /> 吴亦凡观赏宝格丽腕表新品展 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165857-23_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E4B88EE5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDCEOJean-ChristopheBabinE79BB4E692ADE4BA92E58AA8_resized_773x515.jpg" alt="23_吴亦凡与宝格丽CEO Jean-Christophe Babin直播互动.jpg" width="773" height="515" /> 吴亦凡与宝格丽CEO Jean-Christophe Babin <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165831-3_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E4BDA9E688B4OctoFinissomoAutomaticE587BAE5B8ADE5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDE696B0E59381E58F91E5B883E4BC9A_resized_773x1093.jpg" alt="3_吴亦凡佩戴Octo Finissomo Automatic出席宝格丽新品发布会.jpg" width="490" height="693" /> 宝格丽 Octo Finissomo Automatic腕表 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165829-7_E590B4E4BAA6E587A1E587BAE5B8ADE585A8E79083E5AA92E4BD93E8A781E99DA2E4BC9A102779_resized_773x773.jpg" alt="7_吴亦凡出席全球媒体见面会102779.jpg" width="503" height="503" /> <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165841-10_E5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDE585A8E696B0SerpentiE7B3BBE58897E88595E8A1A8102782_102781_102780_102727_102726_102730_resized_773x579.jpg" alt="10_宝格丽全新Serpenti系列腕表102782_102781_102780_102727_102726_102730.jpg" width="630" height="472" /> 宝格丽全新 Serpenti系列腕表 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165835-11_E5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDE585A8E696B0SerpentiE7B3BBE58897E88595E8A1A8102726_102730_102727_102782_102780_102781_011_resized_772x547.jpg" alt="11_宝格丽全新Serpenti系列腕表102726_102730_102727_102782_102780_102781_011.jpg" width="622" height="441" /> 宝格丽全新 Serpenti系列腕表 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165843-14_E5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDOctoRomaE88595E8A1A8102704_102702_resized_773x1030.jpg" alt="14_宝格丽Octo Roma腕表102704_102702.jpg" width="474" height="632" /> 宝格丽 Octo Roma腕表 <hr /> <img src="/files/img/20170331165904-15_E5AE9DE6A0BCE4B8BDOctoRomaE88595E8A1A8102779_102705_resized_773x1056.jpg" alt="15_宝格丽Octo Roma腕表102779_102705.jpg" width="484" height="661" /> 宝格丽 Octo Roma腕表 <hr /> 吴亦凡以宝格丽品牌代言人的身份亮相宝格丽全球新品发布会。作为此次巴塞尔表展首位亮相的重磅明星，他佩戴宝格丽最受瞩目、打破超薄自动机械腕表世界纪录的Octo Finissomo Automatic出席此次发布会，薄而不简，尽显八面绅士风度，超高人气引起全场轰动。 发布会上，吴亦凡与宝格丽CEO Jean-Christophe Babin先生、宝格丽品牌代言人吴亦凡、Jon Kortajarena、Jasmine Sanders, Caroline Vreeland 和Laura Harrier一同揭幕全新腕表作品。 在宝格丽全球媒体早餐会上，吴亦凡身着绅士白色斗篷佩戴全新Octo Roma腕表亮相，并接受中外媒体的采访。说到作为宝格丽代言人的感受，他说：“创新、多变却永不丧失的个性，这正是我与宝格丽的契合之处。”来自罗马的百年品牌和东方新生代之间火花碰撞，演绎经典亦有新生。 随后，吴亦凡饶有兴趣地观赏起陈列其中的新品腕表系列，流连在Octo, Serpenti, LVCEA,BVLGARI BVLAGRI等系列新品之中，秒杀众多菲林。
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Vintage系列包袋，随着奇趣刺绣拼贴图案与装饰性细节踏上文艺旅程，探索美学秘境，以独到的当代旅者视角呈现多元化的自我风格。 古驰Neo Vintage系列包袋覆面超细纤维面料，搭配品牌标志性的绿红绿织带条纹滚边，诠释当代旅者风范。经典雅致的外表透露出勇敢无畏的内心，骷髅图案的细节则象征着潇洒不羁的态度。自古以来海上探险标志着一个时代的开始，交织着现实幻境的灵魂之旅迎风起航，将探索的神奇魅力注入精神世界。探索与发现的过程也让旅者不断挑战自我拓宽认知，如双G网格般将旅程点滴紧密衔接，罗织出记忆深处的动人故事。 穿越时空的奇幻旅程与浪漫复古的文艺美学构成了古驰2017春夏系列的主题，而这两种概念的融合则在Neo Vintage系列旅行包袋中得到了巧妙诠释。灵蛇与花朵象征着旅途中美和智慧的体验，不管是纹理细致的鸵鸟皮还是柔软奢华的麂皮，不同的材质均体现着对自我风格更加个性化的表述。启程意味着新的开始，回归则代表着过去与未来的衔接，经历变化重获新生的过程，起与终相互衔接；正如Neo Vintage系列所强调的复古格调与当代精神，两个时空维度的交叉带来了全新的魅力蜕变。
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 - title转角遇见高迪 | 来一趟巴塞罗那私人文化之旅
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 - title绿色行动 | 惊叹！原来时尚也能如此环保？
 - deck伴随着时尚更迭的速度越来越快，时装行业给整个环境带来的不良影响也愈加受到人们关注，刚刚结束的《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德：复兴生活》展将目光聚焦于时尚与环保之间千丝万缕的联系，也再一次提醒我们绿色时尚的迫在眉睫。
 - author《尚流TATLER》三月刊
 - content<img src="/files/img/20170306124404-img59_resized_773x515.jpg" alt="img59.jpg" width="773" height="515" /> Stella McCartney以再生羊绒制作服装 谈到环境污染，我们可能第一时间联想到工业化污染、汽车尾气等，但你是否知道，我们每日所穿的服装对于环境造成的负面影响也不可小觑。时尚行业越来越蓬勃的发展，也加速了资源消耗和环境污染。 一方面，服装从生产到售卖的每一个环节都对环境产生负面影响，在印度，因皮革加工排放废料，导致很多以河水为生的居民中毒；乌兹别克斯坦和哈萨克斯坦因大量种植棉花供应服装业，已令咸海水量减少15%，亚马孙雨林遭到破坏也与服装原料有关。不夸张地说，时装行业对于环境的污染极有可能是世界上数一数二的。另一方面，随着潮流更迭速度的越来越快，和过去相比，服装的寿命大大缩短，每个人每一季购买的服装越多，家里闲置的衣服也越多。英国记者露西· 斯格尔曾出版过一本名为《梦寐以求：时装正在耗尽地球资源？》的书籍，她结合调查资料、统计数据和历史档案，在书中指出了时尚行业对环境触目惊心的危害，例如其中的一些数据显示，根据英国剑桥大学的研究，全球每年生产800 亿件衣服，光英国每年就有200 万件被扔进了垃圾堆；英国平均每位女性每年购买衣物的重量约达28 千克，相当于女性平均体重的一半，很多人衣柜里没穿过的衣服有20 件；当代人购买服装的数量是80 年代的4 倍。 毋庸置疑，推进时装产业的可持续运作和绿色发展正是所有有社会责任的时尚品牌和设计师们最为关切的问题。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124403-img65_resized_773x538.jpg" alt="img65.jpg" width="773" height="538" />Vivienne Westwood在巴顿莫斯气候营地 地球的限度 2009年，斯德哥尔摩回复力研究中心（Stockholm Resilience Centre）的一组科学家提出9项他们认为对地球很重要的指标，以及这些指标的上限，包括气候变迁、生物多样性、氮循环、磷循环、海洋酸化、悬浮微粒污染、化学物污染、臭氧层的消失、淡水使用以及森林砍伐与土地使用变更，这些指标共同组成了名为“地球限度”的地球系统框架核心概念，它定义了“人类所需的安全生存空间”，并被各个组织和国家视为可持续发展的先决条件。开云集团刚刚发布的可持续报告中表明，其为奢侈品制定了符合“地球限度”的全新可持续发展理念，制定了2025年发展目标，并确立在该年限前达到的里程碑。开云集团董事会主席兼首席执行官François-Henri Pinault表示将在可持续发展方面不遗余力：“集团的战略方针展示了我们在未来重新定义业务并持续发展的方式，与此同时，它还能为整个奢侈品行业带来变革，使我们更好地应对这一代人所面临的重要的社会与环境挑战。” 除了在生产、销售的所有环节进行绿色优化和提升，时尚领域的许多有责任心的品牌同样也助力许多环保组织，以此向社会传达和扩散保护环境的影响力。例如爱马仕一直致力于传递热爱自然、崇敬万物的价值观，并多次积极倡导绿色的环保理念。它于去年首次启动慈善丝巾项目，推出特别版90厘米斜纹真丝方巾—— 桃红色“森林之主”。近日，它将该系列丝巾所得净收入全部捐赠于中国绿色碳汇基金会，致力于推进植树造林、森林经营、减少毁林和其他相关的增汇减排活动。此前，Kenzo也与海洋保护专家——蓝色海洋基金会形成了高度紧密的合作伙伴关系，把对海洋污染、过度捕捞及海洋生物破坏的抵制作为共同使命，为支持蓝色海洋基金会所作出的各种努力，Kenzo推出了一系列带有“No Fish No Nothing”标语的中性卫衣与T恤，将销售所得全部用于基金会保护全球海洋环境的事业。而在蓝色海洋基金会联合创始人兼理事Chris Gorell Barnes看来，时尚也是最有力的传播方式之一，通过这种渠道可以向更广阔的人群传达保护海洋的必要性以及保护鱼类可持续补给的重要性。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124403-img61_resized_413x498.jpg" alt="img61.jpg" width="413" height="498" />Kenzo与蓝色海洋基金会合作款服装 环保行动家 前不久，在Chi K11美术馆举办的全球首个中国当代艺术跨界时尚环保年度大展《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德：复兴生活》(Vivienne Westwood: Get A Life)刚刚于2月底闭幕，Vivienne通过照片、录像及时装等立体手法，全方位呈现了她的生活工作和艺术创作，引领大众解读其从知名时装设计师延伸至社会行动家在对生态环境的关注和环保领域中的不懈努力，同时也呼吁人们关注自己所生存的世界和自己的行为对生存环境所造成的影响，传达“为自己及为我们的下一代获得更好的生活”的信息。作为时尚环保的先锋人物，Vivienne向来反对过度消费，她提醒大家购物要注重质量而非数量，注意物品的耐用性，时刻秉持有“低碳可持续”的环保理念，同时，她也积极参与绿色运动，号召名人参与拯救北极的计划，又与International Trade Centre（国际贸易总行）合作，借生产手袋之机支持边缘化的非洲小区妇女自力更生。现场有众多富于代表性的装置与极具视觉冲击力的场景，令你亲身置于Vivienne身为社会行动家的世界之中。陈列在展厅内的最新Vivienne Westwood时装系列展示了她如何将社会、环保活动直接呈现在时装秀台；移步至她手绘的“生命之树”下感受地球的召唤；放眼于“气温上升5度之地图”前浏览由英国员佐勋章获得者安迪·格慈(Andy Gotts)拍摄的60位参与到“守护北极绿色和平运动” 的名人义士影像；或拿起自己的“武器”来到“气候革命”现场为改善生态环境而战！正如Vivienne曾表示：“这是一场捍卫人类生存、捍卫地球的战争。我们最重要的‘武器’是公众舆论：去艺术画廊吧，去理解这个世界。一旦你开始这样做，你就是一个自由战士。” 这次的展览引起了广泛的关注，不仅是因为其环保时尚的独特理念，同时，此次展览还特别为了向Vivienne Westwood的时尚环保精神致敬，策划了以Duo Therapy为主题的首次跨界系列活动，Duo的含义即将Eco-friendliness （环保）和Fashion（时尚）两个概念有机结合在一起进行创作。以环保材料、环保穿搭、环保理念多维度立体论证，力邀多位资深设计师、时尚权威人士的加盟，并从环保时尚作品展示、主题讲座论坛及设计竞赛3方面引发大众对时尚、艺术与环保的讨论热潮。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124403-img101_resized_452x336.jpg" alt="img101.jpg" width="452" height="336" />时尚的环保责任 除了生产、运输和销售流程，时尚品牌的环保革命还不止于此，它们将环保理念渗透于每一个细小的方面，甚至在店铺或工厂的建筑设计中，也力求保护环境。 Saint Laurent ：绿色建筑白金认证 Saint Laurent以全新店铺概念装潢的三家精品店——巴黎圣奥诺雷路街38号、洛杉矶比佛利山罗迪欧大道326号以及伦敦邦德街 32号获得美国 LEED绿色建筑白金认证，是全球首家获得 LEED白金认证的奢侈品牌。三家认证店铺均凭借创新与可持续发展模式降低耗水量、优化能源效率以及提高室内空气质量。罗迪欧大道精品店自2014年重新开业以来,已降低了 57%的能源损耗。 Bottega Veneta ：新建筑与较大改造建筑认证铂金奖 Bottega Veneta位于 Montebello Vicentino的新工作室在2009年获得了LEED新建筑与较大改造建筑认证，工作室于2013年9月正式开业，所处大楼占地55,000平方米，是一处受意大利环境遗产局保护的历史建筑。在改造这一原有别墅时,保持现存的建筑结构是最为重要的议题,超过 75% 的原有材料得到重新利用。在建筑材料的利用上也运用了相同的方法:例如离建筑现场最近的地点采购材料,决定仅使用森林管理委员会指定的木料,对废品进行了细致的分类。从设计到实施的各个流程均根据 ISO14001 能源系统控制程序进行，运用景观美化别墅四周的地面时,Bottega Veneta 保留了原有的植被,且仅使用了获得许可的材料和植物。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124406-img107_resized_773x549.jpg" alt="img107.jpg" width="599" height="426" />再造衣银行发布以“重生”为主题的全新系列 再造与重生 在《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德：复兴生活》展览的各个环节，它邀请了众多拥有环保理念的时尚设计师共同参与时尚与环保的议题，其中，“再造衣银行（Reclothing Bank）”的创始人及设计师张娜因其最新系列在国内的首场精彩发布而引人注目。与一般的时装发布会不同，这场以“重生”为主题的发布会，所有制衣面料均来源于人们捐出的旧衣和其他时尚品牌的库存，通过张娜的重新设计和利用，升级并焕发出新的活力，如同得到了“重生”。 张娜看到了时尚快速发展所带来的资源浪费的弊端，面对人们大量弃用的旧衣服，她希望借助再造衣银行这个项目令它们可以循环再生成为新的时尚。在张娜看来，每一种物料的原生形态都值得尊重，她所做的再造不仅需要赋予材料新的价值，也必须给予它们平等的对待，旧衣之“旧”的特性，并不是它的劣势，相反，因其经过岁月的沉淀和所承载的故事内涵而转而成了它的优势，令每一件再造衣都独一无二。从2010年创立这个项目至今，张娜在这个领域以先锋的姿态逐渐摸索出了再造衣银行的DNA，以“众Basic －成衣线”“乐 Ready To Wear －高级成衣”“载 Haute Couture －旧衣高级定制”三条线，诠释出整个设计的脉络，完整地诠释再造衣的概念。并在旧衣回收的基础上，与多个成衣品牌，例如Levi's、Lee等合作，改造它们库存中的牛仔面料，让再造衣银行真正成为一个可以独立的成熟品牌。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124404-img109_resized_223x223.jpg" alt="img109.jpg" width="223" height="223" />张娜 张娜 再造衣银行和Fake Natoo创始人 Tatler ：在做再造衣银行的这个项目过程中，你面对的最大的挑战是什么？ 张娜：再造衣如果需要做批量化的生产，从设计到生产流程都需要全新的创新，到目前为止，也并没有一个相对比较成功的案例项目可以参考，因此在这过程中会面对很多问题，每一天都会面对很多的挑战。 Tatler ：你为何如此专注于环保时装的设计？ 张：再造衣银行除了环保时装的概念，也是因为希望将每件旧衣身上的情感和故事得以延续，在如今追寻快速变化的时尚圈，这些服装也许有着自己独特的意义。 Tatler ：可以分享一下再造衣银行将来的发展方向吗？张：我希望再造衣银行众、乐、载三条主线可以稳扎稳打地逐步发展，经得起时间的考验。我并不想大家仅仅因为这个品牌的绿色标签而对它给予关注，更希望能让产品本身来说话，让大家真正了解它的独特魅力。 Tatler ：除了再造衣银行这个项目，你在生活中是否还会贯彻环保的理念？ 张：在生活中，我们每个人都消耗了很多不必要的资源，我认为设计其实是解决问题的，但现在越来越多的设计是激发我们的欲望，我认为拥有的即需要珍惜，因此我在购买每一样产品的时候都会问自己，我自己是不是真的需要它，这和我设计作品的理念也完全一致。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124407-img116_resized_490x678.jpg" alt="img116.jpg" width="412" height="570" />EcoChic Design Award比赛中以旧衣制作的全新服饰 拒绝时尚浪费 在衣服剪裁的过程中，多余的材料往往会被视为累赘与无用之物，但如今，越来越多的设计师渐意识到如何来珍视每一点一滴的原材料。也有越来越多的设计师对这些“边角料”感兴趣，将它们重新利用并焕发新的生命。例如Christina Dean在2007年创立了“Redress”组织，这个非营利机构的使命是教育公众减少浪费，推广时装的可持续性利用，减少时尚对环境的影响。自2007年以来，Christina 曾举办不少活动推广“不要丢弃”的理念，譬如创立了“The EcoChic Design Award”和推出如“The Get Redressed Challenge”项目等，致力于令大家改变穿衣习惯。其中，The EcoChic Design Award是目前针对年轻设计师的全球最大奖项，这个奖项目的旨在启发新晋时装设计师及学生，以最少浪费创造符合大众市场的设计。设计师在这个比赛过程中将学习到可持续时装的设计理论和技巧，如零废弃、重新构造和升级再造等技巧，加以运用至创造可持续时装。经过这样的磨练，设计师们逐渐改变自己的设计理念，减少时尚浪费，并改变时尚格局。来自英国的设计师Kévin Germanier曾获得2014/2015 EcoChic Design Award的奖项，并曾与Shanghai Tang合作升级循环系列，利用品牌提供的废弃面料制成限量系列。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124408-img120_resized_223x223.jpg" alt="img120.jpg" width="223" height="223" />Kévin Germanier Kévin Germanier 设计师 Tatler ：是什么引发了你对于环保设计的热情？ Kévin Germanier ：对我来说可持续性是和时尚相关的。当我还是学生的时候，我就经常循环使用一些材料设计衣服，因为那时候没有太多钱买棉布，我就会用父母的旧床单或是其他一些材料。在设计服装的同时又能保护环境是一件非常奇妙的事。作为一个年轻又富有激情的设计师，有用对我来说很重要。这种环保的方式也能让我时刻保持警惕。我想通过我的作品告诉大家美丽无处不在。 Tatler ：在你的设计中，如何运用到环保的元素？ K.G. ：我在2014/15 的EcoChic设计比赛的最后环节中，结合了可回收以及重构的技术，使用剩余军队纺织布料以及服装纺织废料做成服装。这个系列实现了传统与现代手工艺的结合（比如编织、染色和刺绣）。另外，为Shanghai Tang设计的可回收系列产品时，我用了品牌之前剩下的昂贵材料，新的部分只有标签和装饰品。我也设计了非常简洁的款式，这样就不用浪费一些不必要的部分了。当你想要做到环保的时候，设计是非常具有挑战性的，你会遇到很多困难，但最后你一定能做到的。这就是环保时尚的魅力。 Tatler ：在你将来的设计中，会坚持环保的理念吗？ K.G. ：是的，设计师是设计衣服的，而一个优秀的设计师是用一种环保的方式设计漂亮衣服。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124406-img125_resized_687x773.jpg" alt="img125.jpg" width="513" height="577" />绿色时装 追本溯源，当一件衣服从它的面料开始，就面临了各种环保问题。其中比较突出的是羊绒对环境的影响，制成一件羊绒衫需要花费4只山羊的出毛量，相比之下，1只绵羊的出毛量就能够生产出5件羊毛衫。因此羊绒曾被认为是传统意义上的奢侈品材料，然而如今大量供应的休闲羊绒制品如同普通的经济商品一样被大众消费得起。全球对羊绒需求的增加，导致蒙古山羊数量激增，而山羊是典型的草原杀手，它们贪婪地啃食草皮，将草皮消耗殆尽之余还会刨出草根。它们用尖锐的羊蹄扎入土壤表面，一旦土壤结皮被破坏，强风就会带走表层土壤。根据联合国开发计划署统计，现在蒙古90%的土地是脆弱的干土，深受沙漠化的威胁。以环保著称的Stella McCartney是一个环保“素食”品牌，在它们的所有产品中从不使用动物皮革、皮草、毛皮或是羽毛。面对羊绒对于环境的影响，Stella McCartney一直在不断寻求新的方法来降低服装生产对于环境的不良影响，停止了在针织产品系列中使用初生羊绒（羊胎绒），而是通过回收意大利纺织工厂在加工过程中产生的废弃材料制成的再生羊绒，这种再生羊绒被称为Re.Verso，相比初生羊绒，Re.Verso对环境的不良影响降低了92%。同样意识到羊绒的环保问题的，还有对于环境问题持续关注的乔琬珊，她毕业于哈佛大学肯尼迪管理学院、宾夕法尼亚大学与沃顿商学院，在哈佛的求学过程中，她曾参与联合国在纽约和泰国的计划开发工作，在泰国完成了资讯和通信技术方案的研究，在纽约完成了企业可持续发展的专案。而她目前的身份，是牦牛绒制品品牌Shokay的创始人，她不是来自藏区，也没学过纺织，却打造出了世界第一家牦牛绒创意品牌，相比山羊，牦牛因为不以草根为食而不会对草原造成负面影响，乔婉珊从西藏黑马河的牧民手中收购来牦牛绒，交给工厂清洗、染色，制成纱线，由上海崇明岛的农村妇女组成的编织小组，按照设计师设计的款式，手工制作出成品。如今，Shokay在上海设有专卖店，产品在全世界超过100家商场有售。同时，乔婉珊也将Shokay定义为一家社会企业，通过它，几千户牧民的生活得以改善，并以创新的商业模式保护当地的生态环境，传递“可持续发展才是真正的奢华”的理念。 <img src="/files/img/20170306124402-img134_resized_223x223.jpg" alt="img134.jpg" width="223" height="223" />乔琬珊 乔琬珊 Shokay创始人 Tatler ：是什么令你如此关注环保和可持续发展的议题？ 乔琬珊：这是一个全球性的议题，和地球上的每一个人息息相关。现在中国已经走向需要均衡发展的时候，而且从空气到水质都影响到每个人的生活，所以可持续发展是必需的。 Tatler ：在打造牦牛绒产品的同时，你如何保护当地的牦牛、草原生态以及减少对环境的负面影响？ 乔：长期以来，牦牛被当地牧民视作赖以生存的生命线，牧民和牦牛的感情深厚，每年去绒的时候都是在自然脱落以前用手工或是耙子梳理下来，不会伤害到动物。牦牛不以草根为食，因此不会破坏草场植被。目前中国境内共有1,400万头牦牛，每年可产500 吨牛绒，但目前的实际使用率只有五分之一不到，因此尚未达到过度开发影响生态环境的可能。不过未来我们在扩张时，也会多和牧民一起保护草原生态。牦牛绒本身就是天然纤维，可生物降解，比人工合成纤维天然具有环保性能。 Tatler ：牦牛绒产品和传统的羊绒制品相比，有什么优势？ 乔：针对羊毛、羊绒、牦牛绒三种纤维制品，我们邀请香港理工大学做了一项为期2年的比较研究，证明牦牛绒比羊绒和羊毛都更保暖和透气，而且在同等细度下，牛绒比羊毛更光滑，不刺激皮肤。但是相比羊绒，由于牦牛绒的纤维更短、在工艺上难度相当大，容易断线。从100%纯牦牛绒纱线到面料，我们经历了很多年的努力研究和尝试，直至去年联合日本Mitsuboshi集团成功开发出全球第一款100%牦牛绒面料。这不仅基于我们在原料分级上的进一步细化，取得了更好的纤维原料，也基于Mitsuboshi集团上百年的织造经验。 Tatler ：众所周知，纺织行业对于环境最大的影响在于清洗和印染所使用的助剂，Shokay如何避免这方面对于环境的危害？ 乔：纺织行业对环境影响是无可避免的，但是我们目前要求所有合作的厂商都必须合乎环保标准和国际规范，以尽量降低对环境的影响力。以更长远的计划，最重要的是持续与研究机构和合作厂商尝试最新技术在牛绒上的应用，如无水印染技术等。 Tatler ：应该如何来定义社会企业？ 乔：社会企业不是纯粹的企业，也不是一般的社会服务，社会企业透过商业手法运作，赚取利润用以贡献社会。社会企业重视社会价值，多于追求最大的企业盈利。我做牦牛绒产业链的初衷，就是希望能够改善当地牧民的生活，但是相比公益项目而言，让大家发现牦牛绒的价值能使他们获得更长期的经济增长。同时，我们也主动将部分利润投入当地社区建设。 Tatler ：Shokay未来的发展方向是什么？ 乔：目前，Shokay旗下拥有服饰、家居及旅行饰品等Shokay绣嘉系列产品、及为全球众多服饰品牌及设计师提供纱线及面料的Shokay绣嘉纺织。目前纺织的业务比重为15%，我们会更多拓展合作伙伴和设计师，计划未来这一块业务会增长到50%。 
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 - title创意生活时尚家
 - deck经典电影《阿甘正传》中的男主角曾说过:“生活就像一盒巧克力，你永远不知道下一颗是什么味道。”然而这也正是生活的有趣之处，不要惧怕未知，勇敢去尝试并享受生活中的一切酸甜苦辣，然后再加上一些个人的原创与喜好，当一个独一无二的创意生活时尚家吧!
 - author《尚流TATLER》三月刊
 - content<img src="/files/img/20170306134909-FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-4_resized_691x1015.jpg" alt="FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-4.jpg" width="436" height="640" />韩枫 [客座主编] 韩枫 时装设计师 作为一名来自中国的女性，要在纽约这样一个名师荟萃的世界时装之都创建自己的品牌是一件很困难的事。然而韩枫做到了。她凭着对艺术的感悟，从设计围巾开始慢慢摸索着走进了服装设计这一行。1994年她以一场盛大的服装发布秀被美国当地媒体誉为“第一个成功闯入纽约时装界的中国设计师”，她的同名品牌“Han Feng”也因此成为许多上流社会名媛淑女们出席重要活动时的“Must have” 。虽然有着“国际知名时装设计师”的光环，但韩枫却认为那只是一种表象而已，私底下的她是个非常随性亲和的人，和她利落短发造型的酷酷模样有些不同。而韩枫除了做服装之外，她还设计家居、创作艺术作品，此外，她还是个烹饪家。对她而言，设计只是她生活中的一部分，她其实更看重的是生活本身的乐趣。而这次作为《尚流TATLER》的客座主编，韩枫邀请到了几位她的多年好友们齐聚在她的设计工作室，一起畅谈她们对生活、时尚、设计的热爱。 拍摄采访的这天是一个低温却天气晴朗的周末，地点就约在韩枫位于上海茂名南路的老锦江酒店公寓之中的工作室，这里是她平日工作和生活的地方。白色调的空间搭配上令人感到安心沉稳的原木家具，再点缀上一些不同色彩的工艺品，营造出一种舒适却又别具风格的氛围。其中有几只纯手工由碎布材料制作而成的鸟形装饰品相当引人注目，原来这也是韩枫巧思妙手所设计的，它们也曾经作为装置艺术入选过许多知名的艺术展呢。韩枫说她希望每一个来到她工作室的朋友都能够在这里感受到放松与温馨的感觉，大家可以坐下来喝茶品酒、享受美食、谈天说地并且尽情欣赏她的每一件设计作品。随着韩枫好友们陆续抵达，整个工作室开始弥漫着欢声笑语，黄英、Nunzia Carbone和Francesca Tarocco她们早都已经是这里的常客了，4位好友其实在拍摄的前一晚就已经相约一块聚会品酒了，感情之好也从她们亲密的互动之中可见。空档期间韩枫还亲自下厨掌勺做了一道色香味俱全的炒年糕给大家品尝，她的好手艺也博得众人的满堂彩。 <img src="/files/img/20170306134911-FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-8_resized_613x900.jpg" alt="FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-8.jpg" width="435" height="638" />Nunzia Carbone 建筑设计 来自意大利的建筑设计师 Nunzia Carbone是 Dedo Design的合伙创办人，第一次知道韩枫这个名字是在 2004年，她偶然走进了韩枫当时在上海外滩3号的店里， 那时的她就对韩枫设计的东西感到大为惊艳，成为好友之 后也发现两人在设计与审美的观念上有许多相似之处。<img src="/files/img/20170306134911-FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-10_resized_634x965.jpg" alt="FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-10.jpg" width="439" height="668" />Francesca Tarocco 学者 Francesca Tarocco是纽约大学和威尼斯大学的教授，此外她也是当代艺 术的作者和佛学玄学的研究者，和韩枫认识多年，经常相约一起品尝美食 美酒。<img src="/files/img/20170306134913-FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-15_resized_685x755.jpg" alt="FEATURES-guest-editor-1703-15.jpg" width="433" height="477" />黄英 女高音歌唱家 普契尼的歌剧《蝴蝶夫人》的演出让黄英的演唱生涯走向国际。而电影歌剧《蝴蝶 夫人》和汤显祖名著《牡丹亭》的世界巡演也让黄英赢得了极大的声誉，从此，世 界认识了黄英，黄英的歌剧演唱也走向了世界的舞台，并不断举办个人演唱会。 这4位来自不同专业领域的好友，她们对生活与品位也都有各自不同的想法，这次在韩枫邀请带领之下，大家坐下来互相分享对“ 生活、创意与时尚”的见解。 大家对韩枫的第一印象或评价是什么? 黄英:我不会说韩枫是一个时装设计师，因为我觉得韩枫更像是一个非常有创意的艺术家，她是一个拥有特殊才能的人，她很有天赋! Nunzia Carbone:当我13年前第一次在韩枫的店里看到她设计的东西时，我就已经相当喜欢她的作品。等到我搬至上海并真正和韩枫成为朋友之后，我更加了解她的想法与设计之后，我也就越发欣赏她率性与亲切的个性。 Francesca Tarocco:我在七、八年前因为朋友的关系而认识韩枫，之后就经常会一起相约吃饭聚会等，我觉得韩枫是一个很幽默且爱开玩笑的好朋友。 韩枫:我真的很高兴可以认识这一群好朋友们，她们在不同的专业领域中都十分优秀，我们的价值观也都很相似。对我来说只要成了朋友，那就是一辈子的事了。 如何活出与众不同的生活风格? 韩枫:也许很多人会羡慕我的生活，但我觉得生活都是跟自已的选择有关。我其实对生活的物质要求不高，我更喜欢自由自在开心地过自己的生活，所以我也不擅长制订详细的未来规划。我更想要的是专注于眼前的事情并做到最好，我想我也就是这样活出自己的生活风格吧! 黄英:我觉得要活出与众不同的生活，后天的努力是不容忽视的。另外，就是要对生活对工作一直保有激情，唯有如此才能创造出属于自己的生活风格。 Nunzia Carbone:多去尝试一些新的事物，也许是去一家没去过的餐厅或酒吧等等，让生活因为有新鲜的人事物而有更多的灵感。 Francesca Tarocco:我的建议是多听多看多学习，然后找到自己感觉最舒适的东西。对我而言美丽也是一种知识。 对时尚生活的各自定义为何? 韩枫:我觉得时尚生活不应该只是盲目跟随时下流行的时髦事物，更应该是找出适合自己的经典对象且可以永久流传的风格。 黄英: 要有自我的个性与原创的精神。 Francesca Tarocco:创意很重要，我同意韩枫说的，不要跟随他人而是要找出自己的风格。拿穿着打扮来说好了，我觉得穿衣服也是一种表演，我也要求我的每一场演出(每一次的穿着)都很有我的Style。 心目中的时尚人物Icon是谁? 黄英: 时尚经典大师Gabrielle Chanel，她曾说过:“流行稍纵即逝，但风格永存” ，这句话我相当认同。另外我也相当欣赏艺术大师Georgia O'Keeffe，她原创性的构图与明显又大胆的画风让她在男性天下的画坛中脱颖而出。 Nunzia Carbone:我没有特定的一个人物，因为很多的人事物或元素都让我感到新奇与欣赏。 Francesca Tarocco:我很喜欢中国女作家张爱玲。她写的文字都很有自己的想法，我可以从中感受到她笔下的灵魂和心里的倔强与孤傲，她的作品也留给读者无限的遐想。 生活中一些创意或灵感的启发来源是? 韩枫:我的灵感来自所有的朋友和客户们，我的很多作品都是和他们一起讨论所创造出来的，有时候让别人一起参与和互动反而更可以激发出许多好作品。另外，在旅行中或是食物中我也经常会得到一些启发，例如像我一直都特别喜欢食物摆盘，将这些好吃的食物以一种艺术的方式摆盘呈现，不仅好吃好看，心情也变得好好。 Nunzia Carbone:对我来说可能是图片、食物或是只是单纯的在一个树林中散步都有可能得到一些创意的点子，其实任何看起来有趣的东西都是我的灵感来源。另外我举一个朋友的例子，他为了寻求灵感的来源而决定沉淀自己并在寺庙中住了一个月。 Francesca Tarocco:创意是混合的，我认为灵感的来源是无所不在的。
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 - title再造大师
 - deck拉里· 高古轩（Larry Gagosian）在其香港画廊大规模扩张的前夕，与著名华人当代艺术家曾梵志和收藏家William Zhao共同探讨画廊和艺术家之间的合作以及亚洲艺术生态的未来。
 - author《尚流TATLER》三月刊
 - content<img src="/files/img/20170303180626-99908568924634456_resized_772x278.jpg" alt="99908568924634456.jpg" width="772" height="278" />曾梵志作品，纽约高古轩画廊展出 艺术世界最如雷贯耳的两个名字：曾梵志和拉里· 高古轩（ Larry Gagosian ）。52 岁的曾梵志被《纽约时报》盛誉为“中国最热门艺术家”，拥有亚洲当代艺术作品最昂贵拍卖价的纪录（2013 年10 月，《最后的晚餐》在香港苏富比拍卖价达2,330 万美元）。为人直率的高古轩则是全球具权威的画商，在美国、欧洲和亚洲共有16 家商业艺廊。 <img src="/files/img/20170303174937-E5868DE980A0E5A4A7E5B888-2_resized_773x1084.jpg" alt="再造大师-2.jpg" width="356" height="499" />曾梵志 艺术情谊 曾梵志是高古轩唯一代理的当代华人艺术家。高古轩长期合作的当代艺术家包括杰夫· 昆斯( Jeff Koons ) 、村上隆以及安塞尔姆· 基弗（ Anselm Kiefer ）。传奇艺术家弗朗西斯· 培根（ Francis Bacon ）、克劳德· 莫奈（ Claude Monet ）、杰克逊· 波洛克( Jackson Pollock )、赛· 托姆布雷（ Cy Twombly ）和安迪· 沃霍尔（ Andy Warhol ）也曾在高古轩展出作品。2011 年，高古轩在香港开设艺廊，首批展览中便包括曾梵志个展。自此，两人便建立了深厚友谊。这位著名的高产艺术家被称为“再造大师”，这也正是高古轩在作品中不懈追求的特质。 <img src="/files/img/20170303174936-E5868DE980A0E5A4A7E5B888-5_resized_773x1047.jpg" alt="再造大师-5.jpg" width="354" height="479" />Larry Gagosian 大师传奇 曾梵志的父母是武汉印刷厂的工人。他16 岁便辍学，跟父母一同工作。绘画成为他日常辛苦劳作的调剂。几年后，他便申请进入艺术学院学习。他5次高考失利，但最终于1987 年，被湖北美术学院录取。在这里，他培养了对德国表现主义独一无二的欣赏能力。在广告公司短暂停留之后，曾梵志于1993 年迁往北京，全心全意投入艺术创作。从具象现实主义到抽象风景画，30 年的艺术生涯经历了丰富多样的艺术形式。他最著名的《面具》系列，表达了他迁居北京后的疏离感，以及见证中国刚刚走向富强和快速发展的不安。北京尤伦斯当代艺术中心近日还举办了曾梵志作品大型回顾展。 曾梵志还在念书时，高古轩已经从加州大学洛杉矶分校毕业，在洛杉矶担任停车场经理。他注意到一个在停车场卖海报的男人。以高古轩敏锐的商业眼光，他突然意识到，如果把海报放在相框里卖售价会更高。他很快就开设了自己的海报店，之后又开始展出一些摄影师的作品，逐渐建立了收藏家和颇具影响力的社交网络。不久之后，他便进入了艺术世界，就此开始搭建属于自己的艺术帝国。亚洲对于高古轩而言，仍旧是至关重要的市场。今年，他将继续扩张其香港艺廊，再占毕打行的一层空间。他还计划代理其他亚洲当代艺术家。 <img src="/files/img/20170303174938-E5868DE980A0E5A4A7E5B888-1_resized_773x1033.jpg" alt="再造大师-1.jpg" width="361" height="482" />拉里· 高古轩和曾梵志 艺术对话 拉里· 高古轩、曾梵志和收藏家William Zhao三人一起就亚洲艺术生态及发展展开对谈。 William Zhao ：拉里，为什么当时会选择曾梵志成为艺廊的首位亚洲当代艺术家？ 拉里· 高古轩：我的朋友、我尊敬的收藏家还有博物馆都在收藏梵志的作品。而且因为是在亚洲开设艺廊，我觉得代理一位重量级的华人艺术家至关重要。我主要是通过介绍册和线上复制品了解他的作品，但已经为他的创作能力而折服。他是位非常有才华的艺术家，而且我觉得那是一种非常亲切的才华。他还有一些作品更植根于亚洲文化，或许假以时日，我能够对那些作品有更深刻的理解。但是如果从我自身的文化背景来看，他的技巧和风格让我极度惊艳。另外，他很明显已经开创了很好的市场，他的作品的拍卖价格也很有竞争力。我的好朋友弗朗索瓦· 皮诺（ François Pinault ）（经验丰富的艺术收藏家、零售业巨头开云集团大股东）也持续多年大力支持曾梵志的艺术创作，我尊重他的判断。对艺廊而言，选择曾梵志毫无疑问是一个非常明智的选择。 William Zhao ：梵志呢，你为什么选择与高古轩画廊合作？ 曾梵志：高古轩是一个很好的展示品牌。对我而言，他们的空间很适合我的大幅作品。每次展览，我都会亲自设计。我也总是按比例复制空间，来看墙面和我作品的尺寸比例。很多元素都是精心挑选、量身定制。高古轩总是能够符合我的高标准和众多要求。高古轩给我一个很好的平台，作为一名艺术家去试验、成长和发展。每次办展，我都会研究和探索参观者的教育情况、生活背景和精神世界，观察他们的反应。我认为，对于展览而言，这种双向的交流符合情理。我不能完全不关心外部世界，只闭门作画。艺术家通常都自我感很强，有个人理想。但做展览的时候，你还是想要跟大家建立起有趣的交流。 William Zhao ：如何界定你和拉里· 高古轩之间的关系？ 曾梵志：我们非常尊重彼此。通过与拉里的合作，我见到了很多不一样、也很有意思的人。作为艺廊的经营者，他有很好的态度，为人非常真诚。我们已经成为非常好的长期合作伙伴。基本上，他给了我很多自由和空间，他的团队也很专业。每次创作和设计展览时,他总是很信任我，而且会给我大力的支持。 William Zhao ：拉里，你与曾梵志合作的时候，他已经在中国有很多支持者了。毫无疑问，这有助于你的业务在中国的发展。与此同时，艺廊也为曾梵志带来了很多国际收藏家。这看起来是一个双赢的合作。 拉里· 高古轩：从某种程度上而言，代理曾梵志是我们向中国艺术收藏界示好，可以说是一个政治性的宣言吧。但如果我不喜欢他的作品，或者不觉得他的作品出众，我也绝对不会接受。我们的合作也同样有利于梵志。因为有我们这样顶级的国际画廊代理他的作品，会给亚洲收藏家更强的信心收藏他的作品。 William Zhao ：2011 年起，你就已经在香港、伦敦展出曾梵志的作品。去年，还在纽约办展。你觉得自己如何能够帮助他在国际平台上发展并使他的作品成为博物馆的藏品？ 拉里· 高古轩：我们正在美国尝试运作博物馆的可能性，但在成型之前，我还不想说太多。我们已经成功将作品销给欧洲和美国等西方收藏家，但是这位艺术家在亚洲的市场才刚刚起步。随着时间的推移，我相信他的市场必将不断扩展。对他而言，美国收藏家和博物馆更强势的参与非常重要，但这需要时间，而且不能强求。我认为这只是一个曝光量的问题。假以时日，他肯定能获得更广泛的观众，因为他真的是非常杰出的艺术人才。 William Zhao ：你觉得梵志的作品，西方观众容易理解吗？ 拉里· 高古轩：我认为这是这位艺术家的优势所在。即便西方观众无法完全理解他作品中反映的文化，画作纯粹的魅力和精湛技艺也仍然非常迷人且震撼人心。 William Zhao ：10 年前，香港并不是像如今这样的“艺术之都”，但你还是决定在这里开设画廊。你是如何预见到亚洲的艺术市场会有如此大的潜力的？ 拉里· 高古轩：这跟亚洲创造的巨大财富紧密相关，这样的发展让人叹为观止。全新的亿万富翁和全新博物馆几乎是垂直发展的。促成这个决策有很多因素，但其实跟所有其他市场变强的理由也都相同——强势收藏基础，同时亚洲收藏家之间又有一定的竞争。他们去到某人的家里，看到毕加索，之后就想要买毕加索。这是很正常的。所以，我认为主要原因是更多的曝光，同时还要有经济能力去追逐这种曝光。 William Zhao ：中国艺术市场还处于新兴阶段，收藏家还需要教育。作为领先全球的国际性画廊，你是否觉得自己应当担负起在中国进行艺术教育的角色，以此确保健康和可持续发展的艺术生态系统。 拉里· 高古轩：其实我不这么认为。做展览本身就是一种教育形式。我们不会选择做论坛或小组讨论，或许未来可以考虑，但我的角色并不是这个教育者。我们展示艺术，然后尝试卖掉它们。因为我们在全球的声誉，收藏家们对我们有信心。我们并不是一个刚刚开张6 个月的小画廊。我们良好的声誉让人们对收藏我们代理的艺术家感到放心。他们会觉得，不管买了什么作品，都将会成为艺术历史的一部分。 William Zhao ：梵志，北京尤伦斯当代艺术中心最近刚刚举办了你的回顾展。你觉得自己是否已经实现了最初决定从事艺术工作时想要达成的目标？ 曾梵志：还没有。作为一名艺术家，我不能只依赖展览和艺廊来实现我的目标。为了让更多的人认可我的作品，我需要缓步前行，我需要时间。那次回顾展就是大约30 年以来的旅程。 William Zhao ：高古轩计划引入更多华人或亚洲艺术家进入画廊吗？ 拉里· 高古轩：是的，有这个可能，因为我觉得这对我们在亚洲的业务发展有好处。在亚洲艺术家方面展示更加广泛的足迹，这点对我们而言至关重要。但我并没有只是要完成配额的感觉。我在巴黎有两家画廊，但只有一位法国艺术家。所以还是取决于艺术家。如果有我真的觉得很强的作品，有我真的信任的华人艺术家，我们肯定会去了解。我认为，这样既能增强我们的实力，也可以给我们代理的华人艺术家更强的声誉基础。 William Zhao ：很多华人收藏家从收藏中国当代艺术起步，现在却开始收藏更多的欧洲和美国艺术。为什么有这样的变化？ 拉里· 高古轩：以我的经验来说，收藏家在刚刚起步的时候，通常都会从收藏当本地艺术开始，但是最终他们会从本土文化中脱离，看得更远。欧洲和美国拥有伟大的艺术历史。所以，对于在艺术上投资很大的人而言，历史能给予他们信心。人们信任名声。安迪· 沃霍尔就是一个品牌，像莫奈和毕加索一样。 William Zhao：你会担心华人艺术市场是一个泡沫，就像80 年代日本艺术泡沫一样吗？当时西方艺术在日本可是卖出了破纪录的价格。 拉里· 高古轩：在我看来，亚洲市场非常健康。我不会去想危险，如果太过小心谨慎，就会丧失市场的势头。现在，市场势头强劲，我正趁势而上。现在的市场势头是真的挺好，我不觉得是个高度投机的市场。我们见到越来越多的收藏家，北京也在建非常优质的博物馆，香港内外也是有多家博物馆在建。所以我觉得整体不错。 William Zhao ：目前有没有看中的青年或新锐艺术家？ 拉里· 高古轩：我认为现在对青年艺术家而言是最好的时候。艺术圈的发展可以说是一个循环，我们正在巩固的阶段。新锐艺术家可能六七年前更为热门。现在，人们正在明确哪些艺术家拥有真正的价值，哪些只是昙花一现。从入行以来，我就一直看着这样的循环往复。有些时期，到处都是新画廊和新艺术家，直到新艺术家的数量太多了，已经到了一个临界点。人们这个时候就会说，“嘿，等等，不可能每个月都出一个天才吧。”人们不会一直对“当月热门”有反应的。他们会说，“我要看看谁能走到下一步”。我认为，这就是我们现在所处的阶段了。 William Zhao ：现在，你已经拥有了16 家艺廊。还有计划继续在亚洲开设新艺廊吗？ 拉里· 高古轩：我爱上海。我爱东京。我们确实非常激进，但同时也很谨慎，在画廊扩张时需要做大量调研。我还记得当年，很多画廊都想去巴西开馆，因为大家都在首届“ArtRio 艺术里约国际博览会”上获得了惊人的销售业绩。突然之间，巴西经济急速下滑，股市骤跌。崩盘会影响所有领域，不论是艺术，还是，譬如说，卡地亚的腕表等等。我总是努力了解世界经济。我不是天才，但会时刻关注以做出明智的决策。 高古轩将参与于香港举办的亚洲巴塞尔艺术展，展览将于3 月23-25 日在香港会议展览中心举办。高古轩将参展“艺廊荟萃”板块。该板块将展出来自全球187 间著名艺廊代理的20 及21 世纪现当代艺术作品，涵盖画作、雕塑、绘画、装置、摄影作品、电影、录像及数码艺术等作品。更多信息，请访问 artbasel.com 
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 - title最恬然的，才最绚烂
 - deck超模夫妇裴蓓和王朱筱寅相识超过12年，洒脱、自由的处世态度让他们在时尚圈绽放耀眼的光芒，而两人甜蜜的爱情也同样羡煞旁人。彼此相依，书写着只属于自己稳稳的幸福。
 - author《尚流TATLER》三月刊
 - content<img src="/files/img/20170301102207-Shangliu-Ipad-1703-087-1_resized_773x1033.jpg" alt="Shangliu-Ipad-1703-087-1.jpg" width="399" height="534" />裴蓓 漆皮风衣、刺绣连身裙 王朱筱寅 拼色夹克、条纹衬衣、藏蓝色西裤均为 Fendi 曾以Dior 2007 年巴黎时装周头秀蜚声国际，在极短的时间内迅速成为中国上位最快的超模，随后又成为多个国际著名品牌的代言人，并在演艺圈渐崭露头角，参与了多部影视作品的拍摄，裴蓓的成功之路看上去走得无比顺畅。在镜头里，她表现出的是一贯的酷感与潇洒，但私底下，却充满了亲和力，和王朱筱寅的甜蜜互动也表现出她小鸟依人的一面。很早就成名的裴蓓和王朱筱寅都是国际T台上万众瞩目的焦点，两人却在高峰时期选择放弃了国际舞台而回国发展，为了这个选择，他们曾遭遇过不少质疑，但生性洒脱的两人并不在意外界的眼光，而是用着最适合自己节奏的步伐，踏实稳健地走出属于自己的成功之路。 <img src="/files/img/20170301102208-Shangliu-Ipad-1703-089-1_resized_773x1036.jpg" alt="Shangliu-Ipad-1703-089-1.jpg" width="391" height="524" />裴蓓 印花卡其色风衣、Strap You肩带作腰带用、印花半身裙均为 Fendi 高跟鞋 Prada 王朱筱寅 浅灰色风衣、运动套装均为 Prada 白色运动鞋 Fendi 甘苦与共的超模生涯 一谈到裴蓓，不免会联想到2007年在巴黎Dior春夏高级定制服秀场上，她被设计师John Galliano指定为开场模特儿，谢幕时更牵着她的手向众人宣布“她是我今年最喜爱的模特”。也是从那时开始，大家疯狂地想知道那个让时尚界鬼才大师如此推崇的女孩究竟是谁？而裴蓓也在那天之后获得国际关注而声名大噪。如今，10年过去，裴蓓回想起那时的场景依旧觉得有点不可思议，她说那时的自己还很青涩懵懂，能获此殊荣，她害羞而小声地直呼自己真的很幸运。10年的时光足以让一个人发生极大的改变，裴蓓从20出头的女孩跨入一个成熟的全新阶段，裴蓓的事业和生活都发生了很多难忘的故事，但内心并没有变化：“论改变其实自己真的改变不大，但确实在这10年间收获了许多。除了接到了不少自己喜爱品牌的秀之外，也认识了很多志同道合的朋友，这也是我这10年来最珍惜的部分。”作为一个超模，留给大家的印象通常是T台上的绚烂时刻，裴蓓和王朱筱寅向公众展现的也都是充满阳光和快乐的正能量，但这些美丽的表象背后所付出的辛酸与挑战却鲜少会向人提及。裴蓓说她常在寒冷的冬天拍摄春夏的服装，暖宝宝贴满全身还要摆出春夏轻盈的活力，又或是在酷暑的夏天得穿上厚重的皮草，这样辛苦的常态工作也只能咬着牙努力完成。王朱筱寅也经历过类似的辛苦，曾经有一次他在海拔4,000多米的雪山拍摄，雪没到了膝盖，却仍然要拍摄动态的影片，因为高山缺氧的关系，拍摄一阵子他就得跑去吸个氧气，然后回来再继续，如此重复来回多次才能捕捉到最好的镜头。面对这些挑战，王朱筱寅认为越是艰难越是能收获美好的作品：“一张定格的美丽画面往往是经过了无数次的调整与拍摄才能产生，而模特更是其中的灵魂，我们所要做的就是将这样的极致带给观众欣赏。” <img src="/files/img/20170301102209-Shangliu-Ipad-1703-090-1_resized_773x1033.jpg" alt="Shangliu-Ipad-1703-090-1.jpg" width="403" height="538" />条纹打底衫、粉色连身裙均为 Fendi 自然而发的时尚感 身为超模，裴蓓和王朱筱寅都曾去过许多时尚之都，例如巴黎、伦敦、米兰、纽约等等，裴蓓喜爱巴黎古典又充满浪漫的气息，但自己最喜欢的城市却是纽约，“因为我觉得纽约和上海很像，所有最现代化的新鲜事物都可以在纽约发掘”。而王朱筱寅则最欣赏伦敦，因为浓厚的英伦绅士风范让他特别着迷。 身处时尚圈，两人对时尚与美丽的态度不约而同地相似，也许是看多了过度的设计与繁复的装饰，裴蓓和王朱筱寅都认为一个人最美丽的状态就是自然，并且要保持一个平淡之心，不从众与盲目追求时下的流行。裴蓓坦言，自己刚出道的时候往往只要求外表漂亮，但现在则越发注重内在的涵养，为此，她在闲暇时候都会选择阅读各种书籍，最近在读的书是卡勒德· 胡赛尼所著的《追风筝的人》和白岩松的自传《白说》，汲取书中人物的故事与经验，在她看来也是提升自己的一种方式。 时尚圈的前辈是他们成功路上的指引者，裴蓓将Kate Moss视为自己心目中的时尚Icon，“ Kate Moss百变却又永远保持经典的形象，我希望自己也能成为像她那样引领风格的传奇人物 ”。王朱筱寅则十分欣赏Brad Pitt，因为他出席各种场合都穿搭有型。 很多人都好奇超模的保养方式，两人给出的答案却让人大跌眼镜，裴蓓说“: 平时真的没有特别保养或健身的方式，我们俩又特别爱吃美食，真的是有什么吃什么的那种，但我们始终维持着饭后一定要散步的习惯，我想这也是帮助我们维持身材的一个主要关键吧。” <img src="/files/img/20170301102210-Shangliu-Ipad-1703-091-2_resized_773x1157.jpg" alt="Shangliu-Ipad-1703-091-2.jpg" width="413" height="619" />印花连身长裙墨绿色西装套装、条纹衬衣均为 Fendi 随遇而安的从容 裴蓓和王朱筱寅从2005年相识相恋到2012年结婚，感情从浓烈的爱情升华为互相依赖的默契，私底下，生活中的他们其实和一般平凡人无异，平时喜欢宅在家里玩玩游戏、看书、听音乐，他们笑称似乎在过老年人的生活。 当我让他们各自用一句话来形容自己和对方，他们的第一反应是相视大笑，然后立刻给出形容对方的答案，但要形容自己时反而思考了许久。裴蓓笑着形容“: 王朱筱寅就是个话唠!”并用“表面冷酷，内心热情”来形容自己。王朱筱寅对裴蓓的描述是“ 心地善良的一个女孩”，说到自己时，承认自己有时话真的挺多的，但特别顾家。如今，两人已经结婚5年，在各种采访中也经常被问到什么时候会想要生孩子，两人面对这个问题也十分坦白地表示正在努力中，也许在不久的将来我们就可以看到他们爱情的结晶了。 对于当初决定离开国际舞台而错失了一些发展机会，两人并没有丝毫的犹豫和后悔，裴蓓说:“当然也曾想过如果当初留在国外发展，也许现在的我们就有机会发展得更好，但那个选择却让我们的生活有了不同的故事，我们对现在的自己感到很知足，即使平淡也是最好的时光。” 对于未来，除了持续在国内的时尚界发光发热，他们也有一些其他的小梦想，例如想开一家充满特色风味的上海餐厅，虽然目前还只是一个初步的想法，但也许有一天我们就会看到他们的新餐厅成为上海最火的热点之一。 裴蓓正在阅读的书《追风筝的人》中有一句说道“: 我们是否知道我们心中的风筝到底在什么地方，人生错过就不会再得到，也许我们会忏悔，会救赎，但这些似乎都已经晚了，每当天空放飞起风筝的那一刻，我们是不是应该问问自己我们是否真的珍惜我们所拥有的一切。”裴蓓和王朱筱寅这对超模伉俪似乎正在用行动来诠释这句话的意义，面对成功不骄傲，面对挑战不畏惧，淡然与忠于自我的态度正是两人幸福的最佳解读。 
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 - created2017-03-01 10:21:47
 - modified2017-03-03 16:49:10
 - Tagged(array)
 id58b6303b-3204-4aeb-b2ff-09338bc4bf0c
 foreign_key4508
 tag_id58b6303b-4618-4fae-aad3-09338bc4bf0c
 modelStory
 languagezh-cn
 times_tagged1
 created2017-03-01 10:21:47
 modified2017-03-01 10:21:47
keywordsGianvito Rossi
titleGianvito Rossi | 《尚流TATLER》中文官方网站 | 奢华生活方式体验指南
brand(array)
- Brand(array)
  - id500
  - created2012-07-17 08:56:58
  - modified2012-07-17 08:56:58
  - status1
  - publish_at2012-07-17 00:00:00
  - unpublish_at(null)
  - nameGianvito Rossi
  - description(null)
  - seo_meta_keywordsGianvito Rossi
  - seo_meta_description(null)
  - sluggianvito-rossi
  - tid(null)
brand_products(array)
- 0(array)
 - Product(array)
 - id3491
 - created2012-07-17 09:00:21
 - modified2012-07-19 03:22:27
 - status1
 - publish_at2012-07-17 00:00:00
 - unpublish_at(null)
 - brand_id500
 - categoryshoes
 - websiteGianvito Rossi Hong Kong Boutique: Shop B Ground Floor, Galuxe Building, 8-10 On Lan Street, Central
 - priceHKD 13,500
 - pick_of_the_day1
 - titleGianvito Rossi Nude Patent Carbon Sandal
 - deckAn ultra-feminine and stylish lace-up sandal
 - descriptionIf a stylish sandal for autumn is what you’re after, this ultra-feminine Gianvito Rossi Nude Patent Carbon Sandal will end the search. Its curvy straps secure your ankle comfortably and are highlighted in a glossy nude, with contrasting black trimmings. The sandals feature black leather lace-up fastening with tassel ends. Supported by a strong d'Orsay-styled stiletto in a faint shade of gold and black, the sandal makes every stride a showcase of finesse.
 - seo_meta_keywordsgianvito rossi, sandel, nude, tassel
 - seo_meta_descriptionAn ultra-feminine and stylish lace-up sandal
 - sluggianvito-rossi-nude-patent-carbon-sandal
 - theme_id(null)
 - nid(null)
 - pview0
 - ShoppingTheme(array)
 - id(null)
 - created(null)
 - modified(null)
 - status(null)
 - publish_at(null)
 - unpublish_at(null)
 - title(null)
 - description(null)
 - tags(null)
 - stick_to_top_panel(null)
 - stick_to_top_panel_until(null)
 - stick_to_landing_top(null)
 - stick_to_landing_top_until(null)
 - seo_meta_keywords(null)
 - seo_meta_description(null)
 - slug(null)
 - author(null)
 - nid(null)
 - pview(null)
 - Image(array)
 - id19909
 - nameScreen shot 2012-07-17 at 4.58.08 PM.png
 - filesize111
 - typeimage/png
 - caption
 - object_typeproduct
 - object_id3491
 - sourcehttp://at-hk.s3.amazonaws.com/i/product-20120717090021-Screenshot2012-07-17at4.58.08PM.png
 - square_url(null)
 - square300_url/files/image/19909_square300.jpg
 - square120_url/files/image/19909_square120.jpg
 - thumb_urlhttp://at-hk.s3.amazonaws.com/i/product-20120717090021-Screenshot2012-07-17at4.58.08PM_resized_226x150.png
 - banner_urlhttp://at-hk.s3.amazonaws.com/i/product-20120717090021-Screenshot2012-07-17at4.58.08PM_resized_481x320.png
 - large_urlhttp://at-hk.s3.amazonaws.com/i/product-20120717090021-Screenshot2012-07-17at4.58.08PM_resized_631x420.png
 - popup_url/files/image/19909_popup.jpg
 - h195_url/files/image/19909_h195.jpg
 - carousel_large_url/files/image/19909_carousel_large.jpg
 - created2012-07-17 09:00:21
 - alt(null)
 - people(null)
 - tags(null)
 - sort0
 - status(null)
 - publish_at(null)
 - unpublish_at(null)
 - carousel_fw_url(null)
 - mobile_cover(null)
tempTestAdZone(null)
ads(array)
- LREC1(array)
  - zoneid131
- LREC2(array)
  - zoneid144
- LREC3(array)
  - zoneid158
- FWT(array)
  - zoneid114
- FWM(array)
  - zoneid100
- SKR(array)
  - zoneid185
- SKL(array)
  - zoneid171
- SOTHEBY(array)
  - zoneid(null)
- TAKEOVER(array)
  - zoneid194
current_devicedesktop
popular_categories(array)
- 0(array)
  - nameAccessories
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/accessories
- 1(array)
  - nameBeauty
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/beauty
- 2(array)
  - nameClothing
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/clothing
- 3(array)
  - nameEyewear
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/eyewear
- 4(array)
  - nameFragrance
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/fragrance
- 5(array)
  - nameHandbags
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/handbags
- 6(array)
  - nameHome
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/home
- 7(array)
  - nameJewellery
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/jewellery
- 8(array)
  - nameMotoring
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/motoring
- 9(array)
  - nameOthers
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/others
- 10(array)
  - nameShoes
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/shoes
- 11(array)
  - nameSmall Leather
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/small_leather
- 12(array)
  - nameSwimwear
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/swimwear
- 13(array)
  - nameTravel
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/travel
- 14(array)
  - nameUnderwear
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/underwear
- 15(array)
  - nameWallets
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/wallets
- 16(array)
  - nameWatch
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/watch
- 17(array)
  - nameWriting Instrument
  - url/tatler-picks/categories/writing_instrument
currentcover/files/img/magazine-20161108095111-SHT-Mar-cover.jpg
show_takeover(true)
favicon/favicon-at.ico
description《尚流TATLER》是追求高品质生活人士的重要读物，是中国精致奢华生活方式必不可少的指南。ShangliuTatler.com秉承《尚流TATLER》杂志的高端品位及奢华理念，不断地努力通过专业的编辑和权威的专栏作家，呈现各种精彩内容，包含社交、时尚、美容、腕表珠宝、文化艺术、人物、旅游、美食等，致力于传播奢华生活方式及优雅品位，打造国内一流的高端生活方式网站。
$request->data(empty)
$this->validationErrors(array)
- Story(empty)
- Tag(empty)
- Product(empty)
- ShoppingTheme(empty)
- Brand(empty)
- Image(empty)
Loaded Helpers(array)
- 0Form
- 1Html
- 2Js
- 3Paginator
- 4Rss
- 5Session
- 6Text
- 7Time
- 8Image
- 9Cache
- 10App
- 11Admin
- 12Number
- 13SimpleGraph
- 14DebugTimer
- 15Toolbar
- 16HtmlToolbar

====

Constant	Value
APP	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/
APP_DIR	app
APPLIBS	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/Lib/
CACHE	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/tmp/cache/
CAKE	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/lib/Cake/
CAKE_CORE_INCLUDE_PATH	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/lib
CORE_PATH	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/lib/
CAKE_VERSION	2.1.2
CSS	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/webroot/css/
CSS_URL	css/
DS	/
FULL_BASE_URL	http://shangliutatler.com:8081
IMAGES	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/webroot/img/
IMAGES_URL	img/
JS	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/webroot/js/
JS_URL	js/
LOGS	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/tmp/logs/
ROOT	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test
TESTS	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/Test/
TMP	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/tmp/
VENDORS	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/vendors/
WEBROOT_DIR	webroot
WWW_ROOT	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/webroot/

Environment Variable	Value
Php Version	5.5.9-1ubuntu4.14
Redirect Redirect Cake Site	asiatatler
Redirect Redirect Cake Region	CN
Redirect Redirect Cake Lang	zh-CN
Redirect Redirect Cake Env	debug
Redirect Redirect Status	200
Redirect Cake Site	asiatatler
Redirect Cake Region	CN
Redirect Cake Lang	zh-CN
Redirect Cake Env	debug
Redirect Status	200
Cake Site	asiatatler
Cake Region	CN
Cake Lang	zh-CN
Cake Env	debug
Http Accept	/
Http User Agent	Mozilla/5.0 AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko; compatible; ClaudeBot/1.0; +claudebot@anthropic.com)
Http Accept Encoding	gzip, br, zstd, deflate
Http Host	shangliutatler.com:8081
Path	/usr/local/sbin:/usr/local/bin:/usr/sbin:/usr/bin:/sbin:/bin
Server Signature	Apache/2.4.7 (Ubuntu) Server at shangliutatler.com Port 8081
Server Software	Apache/2.4.7 (Ubuntu)
Server Name	shangliutatler.com
Server Addr	10.46.22.148
Server Port	8081
Remote Addr	18.219.67.87
Document Root	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test
Request Scheme	http
Context Prefix
Context Document Root	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test
Server Admin	[no address given]
Script Filename	/var/www/html/tatler-cn-test/app/webroot/index.php
Remote Port	33834
Redirect Url	/app/webroot/tatler-picks/brands/gianvito-rossi
Gateway Interface	CGI/1.1
Server Protocol	HTTP/1.1
Request Method	GET
Query String
Request Uri	/tatler-picks/brands/gianvito-rossi
Script Name	/app/webroot/index.php
Php Self	/app/webroot/index.php
Request Time Float	1731217312.334
Request Time	1731217312

Hong Kong Tatler

Products from Gianvito Rossi

shoes

default

Total Time: 9 ms
Total Queries: 3 queries

Query Explain:

Memory

Timers

Products from Gianvito Rossi

shoes

感谢您订阅 Tatler 最新资讯！

Request History

Session

Request

Cake Params

Post data

Query string

Cookie

Current Route

Sql Logs

default

Total Time: 9 ms Total Queries: 3 queries

Query Explain:

Memory

Timers

Logs

View Variables

App Constants

CakePHP Constants

PHP Environment

Included Files

Include Paths

Included Files

Total Time: 9 ms
Total Queries: 3 queries