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Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展探索了一个世纪以来,古驰的恒久精神与标识何以衍生出最为经典的设计,也探究了这些定义时代的经典如何为品牌的创意愿景带来取之不尽的灵感,并在不同时代赋予全新演绎。本次展览,展现了古驰对创造力矢志不渝的坚持,这种根植于意大利最精湛工艺及传统的传承推动了当代生活与时尚美学,反映并定义了时代精神。
Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展由著名英国当代艺术家艾斯·戴夫林(Es Devlin)进行展陈构思及设计,并由杰出的意大利时尚理论家兼评论家玛丽亚·路易莎·富丽萨(Maria Luisa Frisa)策展。从回望过去、反映当代、到展望未来,这一玩味十足的典藏之旅,共以八个展览“空间”构成,收录了许多未曾公开的珍贵藏品——这些藏品均来自古驰典藏之家(Gucci Archive),其前身为建于 15 世纪的佛罗伦萨塞蒂曼尼宫(Palazzo Settimanni),它既是栩栩如生的品牌典藏档案馆,又是品牌创意团队的工作中枢。每个“空间”都展现了古驰的不同面向。从创始人古奇欧·古驰(Guccio Gucci)最初萌发的远志,到其子奥尔多·古驰(Aldo Gucci)与鲁道夫·古驰(Rodolfo Gucci)的先锋精神,再到近年来的创作总监汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)、弗里达·贾娜妮(Frida Giannini)和亚力山卓·米开理(Alessandro Michele)天马行空的想象力,呈现从1921年古驰创立以来,从未动摇的准则与不断推陈出新的灵感创意。
艾斯·戴夫林:“古驰致力于创造性的尝试和对时代的表达,通过不断地推进与演变,映射出品牌及其过去百年间的历史。广义上,这彰显了古驰延展自我意识与更新认知转变的能力。如同服装本身能够被改变和重新剪裁,蜕变后的皮肤亦将持续新生。”

玛丽亚·路易莎·富丽萨:“这个项目对我来说非同寻常,我可以再次穿越古驰的宇宙,通过不断变化的服装、物品、元素、人物内容来讲述它的故事,这使得古驰在一个多世纪以来,成为时尚和集体视觉文化中的标志性开拓者。Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展是一种身临其境的体验,在这一过程中,古驰的起源故事和发展历史将不断受到未来想象力的验证。”
艾斯·戴夫林曾与全球顶尖文化机构及知名音乐人合作,创作出令人印象深刻的装置作品与表演场景。此次Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展中,她的设计融合了创意音效、视觉与动态技术,鸟瞰时,明亮的装置布局形似一系列齿轮和车辙,微妙地向展览所在地上海西岸艺术中心的工业遗迹致敬,令人联想起这座城市在欧亚商业与文化交流中做出的长久贡献。展览布景以太空中的轨道为视觉隐喻,传递出品牌恒久的理念,表达了古驰强大的引力如何借由经典设计、无限创意与工匠精神乃至广泛的社会触角,塑造出无数意义深远的回响与共鸣。
空间一:传送站
World 1: Portals
作为《寰宇古驰》典藏展八大空间之首,“传送站”讲述了品牌创始人古奇欧·古驰先生的故事,呈现了他年轻时于伦敦萨沃伊酒店(The Savoy)担任行李员的经历对品牌的持续影响。“传送站”的八道旋转门似是对萨沃伊酒店入口的致敬,引领观者进入这一空间。“传送站”设有三条移动的环状行李传送带,装载着古驰最为精美的行李箱设计,其中包含古奇欧·古驰先生于20世纪 20 年代末设计的最初标志性行李箱之一、由奥尔多·古驰在20世纪60年代为致敬父亲所设计的双 G 印花帆布手提行李箱,以及来自 Epilogue 系列的迪士尼印花行李箱,它由亚力山卓·米开理于 2020 年设计,展现了时尚与流行文化的巧妙融合。不断旋转的“传送站”囊括了历任创作总监在设计学识、创意与灵感层面的交流,展现出他们如何挖掘并重塑品牌的灵魂,从而传递古驰不变的当代属性。值得一提的是,“传送站”外圈设置了八个“古驰时光境”多媒体透视景观,灵感来自古驰过去至今的文化偶像,包括杰奎琳·肯尼迪·奥纳西斯(Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis)、摩纳哥王妃格蕾丝·凯利(Princess Grace of Monaco)、威尔士王妃戴安娜(Diana, Princess of Wales),以及品牌代言人李宇春、倪妮、鹿晗与肖战,继而致敬电影之城罗马及其国际名流与好莱坞明星汇集的时代盛景。



空间二:驰骋地
World 2: Zoetrope
长久以来,古驰不断从马术领域汲取设计灵感,“驰骋地”便深刻讲述了古驰与马术领域的联结。其环形空间点缀着沉浸式大型屏幕,呈现出记忆中的影像片段,在富有节奏的疾驰音效伴随下,以马术驰骋为灵感的词语应和着节拍,以旁白的方式吟诵。多件典藏品展示了古驰的马术标志如何在经年累月间为品牌激发出不竭的想象力——例如奥尔多·古驰于1953年设计的马衔扣(Horsebit),以及以马腹带为灵感的经典绿红绿条纹织带(Web)。走进此空间,可一览马衔扣的发展历史,从最初在乐福鞋上正式亮相,到1955年重新设计后于包袋上的呈现,也定义了2020年问世的Gucci Horsebit 1955手袋;再到20世纪60 年代的皮带,20世纪70 年代的羊毛麂皮长裙,以及由汤姆·福特设计的肩背包,应有尽有。“驰骋地”同样体现了近年来,品牌历任创作总监如何巧妙地为马术的传统贵族气质赋予更具欲望的可能性,包括汤姆·福特设计的马鞭与亚力山卓·米开理设计的马衔扣黑色皮革胸衣。



空间三:伊甸花园
World 3: Eden
典藏展的“伊甸花园”空间生动演绎了花神芙洛拉(Flora)的故事,呈现了一幅精致的自然风光图景。1966年,鲁道夫·古驰委托意大利艺术家兼插画家维托里奥·阿孔内罗(Vittorio Accornero de Testa)为摩纳哥王妃格蕾丝·凯利创作的丝巾,奠定了古驰1981 成衣系列的主旨,并于佛罗伦萨皮蒂宫(Palazzo Pitti)内的白厅(Sala Bianca)正式发布,后也成为汤姆·福特、弗里达·贾娜妮与亚力山卓·米开理的灵感之光,点燃了他们的艺术才华。在“伊甸花园”这一明亮而布满镜面的环形空间内,古驰与自然世界美丽多样的关联持续呈现。灵感源自阿孔内罗创作中的巨型花卉和昆虫装置穿插其间,悬挂于重要展品之上,揭示了Flora花卉图案对古驰典藏之作源源不断的启迪。

从1969年华丽夺目的Flora花卉图案真丝迷你裙、到亚力山卓·米开理设计的印有箴言“执迷于爱“(L’Aveugle Par Amour)的标志性刺绣羊毛内衬牛仔外套,以及一系列真丝围巾与织物手袋,体现了这一优雅图案是如何得到善用、再诠释进而糅合出新的魅力。


空间四:偶
World 4: Two
离开生机盎然的“伊甸花园”,迎面而来的是一对高达十米的巨型白色雕像。两座雕像如同古老神庙的门神,象征着古驰中性时尚的开创观念及其对社会知行的影响。在如同空白画布的雕像上,循环投射着古驰从过去至今的标志性男女套装影像。其中包括汤姆·福特于1996年设计的著名红色天鹅绒西服套装、弗里达·贾娜妮设计的收腰格纹西服套装,以及亚力山卓·米开理的作品,如 2016 年推出的花色夺目中性套装与 2023春夏《Gucci Twinsburg》系列中的套装。


空间五:典藏馆
World 5: Archivio
进入“典藏馆”,探索古驰最经典手袋的起源。在这个令人惊叹的空间里,镜面天花板营造出无垠之境,迷宫般的走廊中排列着许多陈列柜和抽屉,有些打开着露出其中的物件,有的则紧闭或半开,或藏在磨砂玻璃后,仿佛隐匿自身的秘密。存放在“典藏馆”中的一系列历史手袋,包含五款兼具摩登感的品牌经典之作:Gucci Bamboo 1947、Jackie 1961、Gucci Horsebit 1955、Gucci Diana 以及 Dionysus手袋。此外,也包括了20世纪 60 年代一个罕见的彩色竖条纹麻质面料竹节手袋,它焕新演绎了古奇欧·古驰先生的设计,以及一个20世纪90年代的皮革竹节手袋;还有早期的Jackie手袋,具有标志性的推入式搭扣与条纹织带,及20世纪70年代末重新演绎双G图案的款式。同时展出的还有一款诞生于 20世纪90 年代初的红色皮革竹柄托特包,这是亚力山卓·米开理在2020 年重新诠释的 Gucci Diana原型手袋。此外,还有两款带有双 G 标识的手袋:一款是20世纪 70 年代初的黑色皮革手袋,其标志性的圆形互扣式双G图案,成为于 2021 年首次亮相的 Gucci Blondie 手袋的设计灵感;另一款则是由亚力山卓·米开理创作,于2016年首次亮相的白色绗缝皮革GG Marmont手袋。于陈列柜旁,观者可以从抽屉中欣赏维托里奥·阿孔内罗为丝巾印花设计的复刻手稿、工匠的技术档案与底稿、以及典藏广告海报,继续“典藏馆”探索之旅。



空间六:珍奇屋
World 6: Cabinet Of Wonders
在圆形的“珍奇屋”中心,坐落着一个旋转的实体藏宝阁。这座令人惊叹的三米高立方体装置,涂有深红色漆面,内置多个抽屉和隔层,如机关一般滑动,伴随着呼吸般的背景声,展示了风格兼收并蓄的一系列服装、配饰和古董。它完整呈现了古驰的设计谱系,从汤姆·福特2001时装系列中的黑色皮革紧身胸衣,到2006 年弗里达·贾娜妮设计的金色晚礼服,再到 2018 年亚力山卓·米开理别具一格的绣有蕾丝、珍珠与串珠连衣裙;一个奇特的黑色天鹅绒手拿包,饰有20世纪50 年代的镀金金属锁扣;一个来自2019年饰有尖形铆钉的朋克风球形皮革手袋;一系列精选自20世纪 60 年代至 2020 年的非凡珠宝首饰,和一套20世纪 70 年代初的鹿形银制酒杯;此外,还有亚力山卓·米开理设计的黑色鸵鸟羽毛扇和汤姆·福特时代诞生的电吉他。作为古驰自由内核的象征,“珍奇屋”见证了古驰将天马行空的想象化为美学灵感,大胆地逐心而行。



空间七:灵感廊
World 7: Carousel
来到“灵感廊”,由32个人形模特组成的队列,身着20世纪70年代至今的古驰服饰,如同时装模特一般在T台上不断移动。来自往季时装系列的服饰经过精心排列——并非按时间顺序,而是对色彩与设计灵感的重组。“灵感廊”开启了跨越时空的创意连结,强调了古驰在传统与现代之间跳跃进行的对话。20世纪70年代的真丝衬衫及带有“方块G”图案的半裙,与2016年雅致俏皮的羊毛外套上的错视缎带图案相得益彰;2012 年弗里达·贾娜妮设计的串绣流苏裙,与汤姆·福特于1996年设计的中性西装蕴含的享乐主义和诱惑魅力相映成趣。在循环展示服装造型的同时,包括倪傳婧、张文绮、健美糖(李健美)和咖喱牛在内的中国艺术家受邀创作插画汇聚于此,形成一幅集锦画卷,进一步强化了不同地域之间的创意连结。



空间八:苍穹殿堂
World 8: Duomo
在最初的百年间,古驰展现了灵思泉涌的创造力,不断体现并改变时代潮流——随着品牌成为奢华旅行与国际名流之选,多年来声誉巩固——古驰始终扎根于它的精神和美学诞生地,佛罗伦萨。“苍穹殿堂”是Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展实至名归的终点,是对佛罗伦萨的绝美致敬。两个大型复刻结构灵感源自建筑师菲利波·布鲁内列斯基(Filippo Brunelleschi)于15世纪为佛罗伦萨圣母百花大教堂(Santa Maria del Fiore)所设计的具有革新意义的圆形穹顶;两者互相倒置,中间由一个悬空的观景平台相连通。其中,古驰从过去至今的设计创意与图案被投射到穹顶内部,营造出抽离时空的全方位光影体验。这一循环组成的绚丽奇观,包含着以Flora花卉图案为灵感的花簇,为这段赞颂古驰恒久价值的旅程画下圆满的句点。

Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展是古驰精神的一次实验式化身,是对品牌最经典设计、标识和创作的致敬,也是对设计师与工匠们卓越技艺的称颂。自1921年古奇欧·古驰先生创立品牌至今,古驰始终坚持自身在创造力与意大利工艺上的顶尖地位,并以全球性的视角,致力于展现真正的奢华品质、标志性设计以及足以塑造未来的无限创意。
Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展于 2023 年 4 月 28 日起,至6月25日,在中国上海西岸艺术中心呈现。随后,将于全球范围巡回展出。
署名及致谢
展览概念及设计: 艾斯·戴夫林
策展: 玛丽亚·路易莎·富丽萨
视频创意
创意总监: Polina Zakharova
监制: Sveta Yermolayeva
制作: Hard Feelings Studio
声音设计/作曲: Monoleak
执行制作: Activation Group
“传送站”中文书法: 孙旭
“灵感廊”插画创作: 倪傳婧、张文绮、健美糖(李健美),咖喱牛
“苍穹殿堂”
致谢Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
特别鸣谢
特别感谢上海市政府,徐汇区委、徐汇区政府对于本次展览的大力支持。
特别感谢陈冠中先生对展览中文名称提供建议。
场地支持:上海西岸艺术中心
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The Princess of Hanover)选定主题,并邀请众多国际设计师、演员、精英汇聚于此,法国记者、电台主持人、演员斯特凡·贝尔尼(Stéphane Bern)也参与其中,共襄公益盛举,再次缔造属于这个国度的传奇故事。
(2023玫瑰慈善舞会)
玫瑰慈善舞会由格蕾丝王妃(Grace Kelly)在1954年创办,时至今日它不仅是全球精英重要的社交活动,更是国际公认的慈善活动。因为每年舞会皆在玫瑰盛放的3月举办,故称为玫瑰慈善舞会。
每年玫瑰慈善舞会都会有不同的主题,为这场盛会赋予与众不同的意义与象征。今年汉诺威王妃(H.R.H. The Princess of Hanover)将舞会主题定为“宝莱坞”,并邀请了拥有“红底鞋贵族”之称的传奇品牌设计师克里斯汀·路铂廷(Christian Louboutin)作为艺术指导,制作舞会海报与舞台设计,呈现精彩视觉效果。设计师运用宝莱坞特有的明丽色彩与复杂图案,将东方传统元素与西方摩登风格融汇。同时结合宝莱坞电影风格,星际大厅(Salle des Etoiles)的入口也在舞会当天被改造成为星光熠熠的红毯,设计师以极具视觉冲击力的金色闪片元素,搭配充满影片感的图案,为所有到此而来的嘉宾打造了一个闪亮舞台。
(2023摩纳哥玫瑰慈善舞会入场处)
经过红毯走入星际大厅(Salle des Etoiles),影视元素随处可见,舞台更是令人惊艳。带有印度建筑风格的边沿,将此处打造成为视觉重点。层叠矗立的宝莱坞特色建筑,与拍摄现场常见的打光灯、导演椅、道具箱等元素前后呼应,直接大胆展现电影风格。众多元素将舞台化身为一个电影制片厂,精彩演出在此上演,带领现场嘉宾踏上一段载歌载舞的旅程,一位美丽的年轻印度女性,也首次受邀参与到玫瑰慈善舞会之中来。
(2023摩纳哥玫瑰慈善舞会演出舞台)
本届玫瑰慈善舞会邀请众多印度表演艺术家,在此上演精彩非凡的演出。晚会由拉贾斯坦邦吉普赛人Bassant团体热烈开场,带领现场嘉宾穿越至印度北部,感受当地歌舞风情。著名编舞家Kamal Kant和Megha Jagawat紧随其后,传递宝莱坞电影特色风情。巴黎歌剧院芭蕾舞团首席舞蹈演员Jeremy Loup Quer与著名编舞兼演员共同登场,携手演绎这个神奇的故事,结尾由Punit J.Pathak和Mika惊艳登场,为这场从印度至摩纳哥的艺术旅程画上圆满的句号。

(现场表演)
玫瑰慈善舞会不仅是一场精彩非凡的精英盛宴,更是一项具有国际影响力的慈善事业,现场各项抽奖与其他特别奖项的全部收益,皆会捐献给格蕾丝王妃基金会,为全球困难人群和贫困儿童提供帮助,开展人道主义和慈善行动。
在无处不传奇的蒙特卡洛滨海度假集团,每年的玫瑰慈善舞会的举办都会吸引世界的目光,也让摩纳哥公国再次成为全球瞩目的胜地。在这里,超乎想象的梦境与美好皆会成为现实。
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关于摩纳哥蒙特卡洛滨海度假集团
摩纳哥蒙特卡洛滨海度假集团始创于1863年,隶属于摩纳哥皇室产业,是整个欧洲极富盛名的奢华度假村之一,也是整个蓝色海岸上历史悠久的私人奢华旅游产业集团。集团将摩纳哥当地自然环境和历史文化元素相结合,通过4间酒店(蒙特卡洛巴黎大酒店、蒙特卡洛秘境大酒店、蒙特卡洛海滩酒店、蒙特卡洛海湾度假大酒店)、30多间餐厅与酒吧(其中4间共摘得7颗米其林星)、3间水疗浴场、2间赌场、60+奢品名店,在这个“无处不传奇”的国度演绎近百年来独特生活艺术,为所有到此而来的宾客打造独一无二的全方位集合度假体验。
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中国上海(2022 年 9 月 5 日)——睡到自然醒是对于周末的欢颂,自然、健康的早午餐是对于惬意生活的延续。上海外滩华尔道夫酒店的「华丽早午餐」在这个初秋正式回归,厨师团队甄选优质当季食材,结合现代创新烹饪手法将零点式菜单及饕餮海鲜一一呈现,领略丰富多彩的舌尖之旅。伴随着四位音乐艺术家现场演奏轻爵士乐,在喧嚣的城市中心谱写一曲慵懒周日的唤醒乐章。
前奏 —— 法式前菜
崇尚自然、健康日渐成为饮食的主旋律。各类沙拉、法式冷切和芝士化成的一只轻骑兵,奏响华尔道夫早午餐的前奏。布里芝士,大孔干酪等各类法国芝士的咸甜与奶香融合的恰到好处,西班牙 5J 带骨 36 个月整腿火腿,薄如蝉翼,细品鲜美;法式布里欧面包与咸/淡黄油的搭配,演绎经典传承的早午餐风韵,食客们透过落地窗俯瞰整个漂亮的绿色庭院,在熙熙攘攘的城市里享受一种难得的平静与自然。
启幕 —— 饕餮海鲜
汇集各地鲜美海味,诠释食材原味以及最初质地的味蕾体验。正值时令的新鲜梭子蟹、鲜活的帝皇蟹腿、波士顿龙虾整只现开,新西兰海螯虾、蛤蜊及澳洲鲍鱼等鲜美的滋味呈现于桌前。产于爱尔兰、新西兰、法国的生蚝肥美丰腴,入口便是浓郁的海水味道,而后伴有淡淡甜味。另有吉拉多生蚝 2 号现场派送,送至席间,配上一勺圆润饱满、微泛金黄光泽的鱼子酱,甘甜与咸鲜叠加。
来自深海的蓝鳍金枪鱼腩,口感滑润,脂香浓郁并带有清晰的雪花纹路,三文鱼刺身质地爽脆,蘸上少许酱油和芥末放入口中,鱼油的脂香一触即发,鲜甜可口,于舌尖寻味山海之鲜。
中章 ——鹅肝两吃
法式鹅肝讲究冷热两吃,法式鹅肝酱与香槟啫喱的经典搭配,细腻丰腴的鹅肝滑过舌尖;带着炙烤温度的法式鹅肝,滋滋油香,入口即化;鹅肝酱慕斯搭配法式泡芙,也是不可或缺的味蕾选择。
高潮 ——肉食狂欢
食间,主厨臻选的美飨推车逐一亮相。厨师与食客零距离互动,现切并制作烤羊排、带骨火腿等多重美味,让肉食爱好者大块朵颐。而户外花园成为战斧牛排、T 骨牛排的烧烤主战场,炭火炙烤为这个周日释放不一样的烟火气。
此外,百味园全新早午餐零点菜单包含法式海鲜汤、龙虾班尼迪蛋、牛肝菌蛋卷,值得一提的是华尔道夫经典美味—— “班尼迪克蛋”,切开即现浓郁金黄蛋液的水波蛋,淋上口感香浓丝滑的淡黄色荷兰酱堪称完美。主菜有多种选择:从香草黄油烤春鸡到和牛汉堡等多道热菜均现点现做,为味蕾营造不一样的仪式感。
尾声 —— 甜品花屋
以丰富的想象力重塑一座薰衣草主题的甜品花屋,呈现多重精致小点,不添加任何香精色素,坚持食材本真之味,另有独具匠心的液氮冰淇淋推车现场派送,新鲜莓果与无酒精果汁的健康混搭,让这场奇妙的早午餐旅程迎来甜蜜收尾。

华尔道夫早午餐
门市价
每周日(12:00-15:00):每位人民币 888*元,含特色饮品果畅饮
推广优惠(即日起至 2022 年 11 月 27 日)
每周日(12:00-15:00):每位人民币 698*元,含特色饮品果汁畅饮
每周日(12:00-15:00):每位人民币 998*元,含特色饮品果汁畅喝及巴黎之花香槟一瓶
*以上价格需加收 15%服务费。
百味园,上海外滩华尔道夫,中山东一路 2 号
垂询或预订,敬请致电+86 (0)21-6322-9988,或致电邮:shawa.fb@waldorfastoria.com.
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关于上海外滩华尔道夫酒店
上海外滩华尔道夫酒店坐拥举世闻名的上海外滩核心地带,依托着美丽如画的浦江盛景。它完美 结合了闻名遐迩的百年历史建筑楼—曾经辉煌鼎盛的上海总会,以及一幢拔地而起的全新大楼。 酒店内设 260 间奢华客房及套房、6 个屡获殊荣的餐厅及酒吧、11 个宴会厅及会议室及设备先进的健身中心。更多详情或预订,请拨打电话(86)21-63229988 或登陆www.waldorfastoriashanghai.com.
关于华尔道夫酒店及度假村
华尔道夫酒店及度假村品牌旗下拥有 32 家标志性的奢华酒店,遍布世界各大地标城市,致力于为宾客提供私人化服务,打造至臻美食体验。华尔道夫酒店及度假村以“至真华尔道夫服务”以及精致奢华的环境,为宾客打造从入住那一刻直到退房离开的真挚时刻。除品牌提供的知名酒店服务以外,华尔道夫以品质上乘的酒店式公寓著称,拥有 18 家营业及在建酒店,将私家寓所的舒适性和华尔道夫的卓越礼遇与传奇服务相结合。华尔道夫酒店及度假村是国际知名的酒店管理公司希尔顿品牌组合的一员。
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2021年10月16日-17日,为期两天的“潮电狂欢”在上海外滩W酒店池畔酒吧火热上演。从午后到满天星辰,拉美风情的热烈与奔放不断点燃现场,异域美食与酒饮如期而至,夏日热情的余温持续四溢,燃爆魔都。

随着巨型“皮纳塔”的入侵,富有拉美风情的“潮电狂欢”在上海外滩W酒店拉开帷幕。“皮纳塔”来自墨西哥,据传,起源于中国,它是恶之魔鬼,掠夺着世间美好,但只要将他击碎,美好事物便能尽数夺回。活动现场设置了敲打皮纳塔的创意互动环节,一敲一击,金光四散而出,流光溢彩间,尽情迎接幸运的降临。四周还装点着充满拉美元素的装饰艺术,伴随动感的节拍,带领宾客穿梭至大洋彼岸的拉丁美洲,注入热情的能量,尽情舞动,纵情狂欢。

为打造身临其境的异域风情,W酒店精心设计了别具风味的创意美食和特调鸡尾酒。5款特供小食的灵感,来源于墨西哥街边的小吃文化,当地的特色烤玉米、塔可、西班牙油条新颖升级,不仅小巧可口,还带有丝丝辣意,让宾客在品尝美味的同时,感受来自南美的火热与随性。调酒师也在酒杯中延续热烈,将酒精与多种南美水果相融合,碰撞出一杯杯彩色夺目的鸡尾酒。一辆满载椰子酒饮的小车行驶而过,独属于夏日的热情元素从中可以窥见。轻尝一口,浅酌一杯,宾客们的视觉与味蕾都被染上了斑斓的色彩。

星光掩映着户外池畔酒吧,精心打造的狂欢舞池绽放绚丽之姿。宾客可以一边远眺黄浦江霓虹耀眼的夜景,一边沉浸在电光闪烁的派对中。品味一杯诱人的风味鸡尾酒,邂逅一段多元的味蕾惊喜,跟随欢快的旋律在舞池中心随意动,这场充满拉美风情的“潮电狂欢”已将魔都引爆,越夜越精彩。

夏日已经接近尾声,但热情不减。虽然今年最后一场池畔酒吧狂欢已落幕,但上海外滩W酒店还将上演更多惊喜:潮流音乐在WOOBAR®酒吧延续,一段远离尘嚣的鸡尾酒之旅即将启程;艳汁酒吧迎来众盼重启,是时候穿越回20年代老上海的“地下”酒吧了。接下来还有精彩纷呈的感恩节派对和圣诞节主题盛宴,等你来焕活与探索这个绚丽冬季。

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BALL昨晚于上海静安瑞吉酒店盛大举办,张艺谋获颁“亚洲卓别林大奖”!";s:6:"author";s:12:"尚流TATLER";s:7:"content";s:16328:"一年一度最令人期待的社交盛典TATLER BALL昨晚于上海静安瑞吉酒店盛大举办,张艺谋获颁“亚洲卓别林大奖”!梁朝伟、刘嘉玲、惠英红、周冬雨、Kiera Chaplin、朱珠、马岩松、雷宛萤、林瀚等明星名流齐聚一堂,超过220位在艺术、商界、文化等各个领域有突出贡献的行业领袖们共襄盛举,与尚流TATLER一同共享17年的荣耀与璀璨!







名流云集,璀璨之夜
01星光点亮未来盛典
放眼整个亚洲,一年一度的TATLER BALL是最令人期待的社交盛事,社会各界的精英人士均会盛装出席。今年,由连续两年荣膺Skytrax五星航空公司认证的日本航空Japan Airlines冠名赞助的2019年TATLER BALL以“We are the future” 为主题展开。





TATLER选择与日本航空联袂,正是由于其倡导的#飞向未来#理念与此次盛会主题不谋而合,而日本航空不断升级机舱标准与服务品质为旅客带来卓越体验的精神更与TATLER致力于传播精致奢华生活方式的理念完美契合。
晚宴现场星光熠熠,著名导演张艺谋,知名演员梁朝伟、刘嘉玲、惠英红、周冬雨、朱珠,知名建筑师马岩松,木木美术馆创始人林瀚、雷宛萤等各界名人均盛装出席。当晚红毯,夺目璀璨。
著名导演 张艺谋
知名演员 梁朝伟、刘嘉玲
知名演员 惠英红
知名演员 周冬雨
知名演员 朱珠
知名建筑师 马岩松
木木美术馆创始人 林瀚、雷宛萤夫妇
曹小夏女士、石渡丹尔
嘉宾们云裳鬓影,锦衣华服,佩戴着精美的高级珠宝,全身每个细节都和谐点题,优雅大方地现身TATLER BALL的盛典现场,令夜晚熠熠生辉。






佩戴宝诗龙高级珠宝作品的明星名流
嘉宾们身着各式带有未来元素的华丽礼服,在现场极具未来感的装置前纷纷驻足合影,让人仿佛乘着穿梭机穿越到未知的未来时空,留下珍贵的记忆。
朱珠




晚宴在著名英籍华裔钢琴家Rosey Chan演奏的一曲悠扬钢琴曲中拉开帷幕,空竹人影互动表演、电光芭蕾等演出精彩纷呈,将晚宴气氛推向高潮。
著名英籍华裔钢琴家Rosey Chan
空竹人影互动表演
电光芭蕾
随后,Edipresse Media亚太区主席暨执行总裁Michel Lamunière先生致辞,他表示:“亚洲即将成为全球最为重要的经济体,亚洲世纪即将到来,在这样一个背景下,TATLER作为一个亚洲媒体平台,将会迎来全新的机遇和挑战。2020年,TATLER将会带来全新的形象和改版,势必将会成为一个凝聚亚洲最具影响力人物的全方位媒体平台。”
Edipresse Media亚太区主席暨执行总裁Michel Lamunière先生致辞
02年度奖项 强强联手
各大奖项于2019 TATLER BALL揭晓
晚宴开始后,延续尚流TATLER的传统, TATLER BALL各个重要的年度奖项也在现场颁发,由Edipresse Media集团亚太区主席暨执行总裁Michel Lamunière先生以及中国区董事总经理沈清女士逐一揭晓,对本年度最受关注及对社会做出卓越贡献的人士予以表彰。当晚授予的奖项包括:
未来推动者大奖:张艺谋
年度之星:周冬雨
杰出文化贡献奖:马岩松
杰出公益贡献奖:曹鹏(曹小夏代领)
亚洲最时尚女性:雷宛萤
宝诗龙女性自由精神奖:惠英红
今年,巴黎高级珠宝世家BOUCHERON宝诗龙首次与TATLER携手合作,在TATLER BALL颁发“宝诗龙女性自由精神奖”,特别颁发给实力影后惠英红女士,她在台前幕后的独立精神与宝诗龙展现女性独立风采的品牌创作核心,大胆率性的创造力和独具匠心的工艺的品牌理念,以及品牌秉承的女性自由概念不谋而合。
两届亚洲卓别林电影人士艺术成就奖获得者与Kiera Chaplin
当晚最大的惊喜是第二届“亚洲卓别林电影人士艺术成就奖”(Asia Chaplin Award)的揭晓,去年该奖项自1972年创立以来首次离开大洋彼岸的纽约,来到中国上海,与TATLER BALL强强联手。今年中国电影最具代表性的领袖人物,知名导演张艺谋获得这个电影界的至高荣誉,查理·卓别林的孙女Kiera Chaplin为张艺谋导演颁奖,掀起了当晚高潮。
查理·卓别林孙女Kiera Chaplin为张艺谋颁奖
众所周知,张艺谋所导演的作品曾获得柏林电影节金熊奖、银熊奖及两次威尼斯电影节金狮奖,并三次提名奥斯卡和五次提名金球奖,曾任第18届东京国际电影节评委会主席和第64届威尼斯国际电影节评委会主席。在艺术结合商业的道路上,他也树立了独有的成功典范,两次刷新中国电影票房纪录,四次夺得年度华语片票房冠军。更因为他导演了2004年雅典奥运会闭幕式北京8分钟、2008年奥运会开幕式、杭州G20峰会而被尊称为“国师导演”,作为2019年建国70周年庆典总导演,为全球华人献上了一场卓越的盛典,在本次TATLER BALL上获颁“亚洲卓别林电影人士艺术成就奖”可谓实至名归。所有来宾举杯同庆,共同见证这一历史性的一刻。
梁朝伟,刘嘉玲,陈婷,张艺谋
刘嘉玲,周冬雨,梁朝伟
林瀚,马岩松,雷宛萤,刘嘉玲,梁朝伟
03佳肴美酒 精彩纷呈



除了颁奖的重头戏,TATLER BALL 还为到场嘉宾提供了诸多惊喜。上海静安瑞吉酒店为2019TATLER BALL晚宴设计了精美菜单,贵宾沉浸在美酒佳肴和欢声笑语的热烈气氛中,频频举杯。
陈基强,李小红,张艳,孟俊,杨芳,温俊宇,邓广坚
历年新锐先锋欢聚一堂
宾客们抵达现场迎来第一感官嗅觉的也是今年TATLER BALL以未来为主题现场定制的香型:Future Metropolis(未来都市):由无花果树、雪松木、琥珀、檀香木等植物香气调配而成,传递未来都市的活力、时尚和充满无限想象的创新气息。此香型由Aroart香氛品牌邀请Air/Aroma法国特约调香师为2019 TATLER BALL特别定制。



酩悦轩尼诗精心准备的唐培里侬2008年份香槟、台阶安第斯山脉典藏马尔贝克红葡萄酒与霞多丽白葡萄酒、轩尼诗V·S·O·P干邑白兰地,美食美酒完美烘托,贵宾与志同道合的友人觥筹交错,相谈甚欢。
志同道合的友人们觥筹交错
晚宴过后,宾客们移步上海静安瑞吉酒店一楼的瑞吉酒吧举行After Party,并享用无限供应的美酒小食,在热舞中延续这梦幻一夜!
DJ引嗨晚宴后派对
冯印陶、浦奕柳、薛晓玮
周游、谢易格
派对终场,日本航空Japan Airlines、巴黎高级珠宝世家Boucheron宝诗龙以及世界领先的消费级基因检测品牌CircleDNA圆基因为各位来宾准备了精美的礼品,让大家尽兴而归。
日本航空Japan Airlines的机舱未来感十足
巴黎高级珠宝世家BOUCHERON拍照打卡点
世界领先的消费级基因检测品牌CircleDNA圆基因
当梦幻一夜落下帷幕,来宾们与尚流TATLER 一起度过了难忘的时刻,希望来年有更多新朋友和老朋友的加入,让我们相约2020年 TATLER BALL!
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Ball上周末在北京瑰丽酒店隆重举行,以“游园京梦”为主题的梦幻社交夜庆祝《尚流TATLER》进入中国15周年。我们为你奉上活动全报道,让你重温这个华服美食、名人话题、荣誉时刻的美妙夜晚!



▲TATLER Ball的晚宴及派对在北京瑰丽酒店进行,传统韵味与飞速发展的现代文明结合的酒店氛围与"摩登东方"不谋而合。
社交之夜
作为最受名流名媛、社交精英期待的年度盛宴,TATLER Ball请来的贵宾自然是阵容豪华,社交明星、豪门二代、商界精英众星云集,共赴这一场华丽之约。







社交之夜
作为最受名流名媛、社交精英期待的年度盛宴,TATLER Ball请来的贵宾自然是阵容豪华,社交明星、豪门二代、商界精英众星云集,共赴这一场华丽之约。
立体灯笼背板
超震撼的背景板由数种造型各异的红灯笼组成,在这面3D立体拍照墙前,由现场灯光变换与拍照角度的不同,让嘉宾留下360度立体美的倩影~

古色古香的屏风
一块中式屏风将灯笼背板与Cocktail分割成两个区域,其古色古香的设计也引得宾客们纷纷驻足留影,是TATLER Ball场地空间设计的巧思之一。

Crazy Rouge独家拍照墙
《尚流TATLER》的明星摄影师Crazy Rouge为今年TATLER Ball特别设计了一块拍照背板,结合梅花、仙鹤、招财猫、灯笼、折扇、剪纸等中国风与现代元素。一众名流名媛争相拍照,流连忘返!

重庆来福士广场也将西南地标带到现场让大家感受商务休闲地、名仕居住地与旅行观景目的地合一的梦幻场景,沙盘演示比肩全球都市的风范,成为Cocktail区一大亮点。


重庆来福士广场沙盘展示
摩登东方
为了当晚Dress Code“摩登东方”,许多名门淑媛早早地准备了“战袍”,从流苏耳环、古典手包到复古妆容,各领风骚契合主题,时髦演绎东方元素的晚装是当晚一大看点!






















































荣誉时刻
TATLER Ball上的重头戏,便是各大奖项的揭晓。《尚流TATLER》对全国最炙手可热的人物及在该年度对社会作出卓越贡献的人士予以表彰,看看今年的获奖嘉宾都有谁?
荣获 “Most Stylish Lady 最时尚女性”奖项的余晚晚女士由Edipresse Media亚洲执行主席Michel Lamunière和中国区董事总经理April Hsu徐淑雯女士颁奖,她也获得了Franck Muller提供的精美腕表一枚。

荣获 “Leader of Tomorrow未来领袖”的李叶女士,她创立的非盈利平台NGCC新生代协同中国为青年领导力发声,这项大奖颁给她可谓实至名归,Clé de Peau Beauté肌肤之钥为得奖人提供了奢雅极全系列产品。

荣获“Cultural Champion 杰出文化贡献奖”的国际钢琴大师、联合国和平大使郎朗,Soneva Fushi提供了马尔代夫奢华度假酒店之旅,他将度过一段美妙的时光。

“Diamond Award 至尊荣耀大奖”得主余德耀先生因为身体原因无法来到现场,余德耀先生的女儿余至柔小姐代为领奖!Kent&Curwen为得奖人提供的高级男士定制西服。

惊喜体验
为感谢各位新老朋友与《尚流TATLER》一起见证这辉煌的十五年,当晚所有获奖者和Edipresse Media亚洲执行主席Michel Lamunière、亚洲首席创新官Julie Lee、中国区董事总经理April Hsu徐淑雯女士和编辑总监Paris Kuo以及Edipresse China Team上台切生日蛋糕,一起庆祝这“尚流一刻”!

TATLER Ball还为到场嘉宾提供了许多助兴环节,东西方文化碰撞的舞蹈、精彩的爵士表演令现场的气氛更上一层楼。

前苏联的双胞胎姐妹花,舞蹈艺术家Gudenko Mariah和Gudenko Nadia首次结合了中国古典桃花妆和现代舞蹈,东西方文化的碰撞给大家带来了全新的感官体验。

北京最出色的爵士女声,来自法国的Rani Géroult和她的明星爵士乐手两度上台给现场宾客带来精彩表演。


美食盛宴
北京瑰丽酒店的餐饮运营总监Matias Martinez特别为TATLER Ball晚宴设计了特别菜单,从食材搭配到精美装盘都呈现了东西方结合元素的融合。除此之外,Castiglion del Bosco为晚宴特别提供了两款限量美酒,令嘉宾们频频举杯。










晚宴过后宾客移步瑰丽酒店五楼Meibar举行的After Party,并享用无限供应的美酒小食,在热舞中延续这梦幻一夜!



真诚赠礼
TATLER Ball也为每一位宾客准备了丰厚的Goodie Bag,以答谢这一年来贵宾们对《尚流TATLER》的大力支持。

感谢以下品牌为 Tatler Ball 来宾提供的精美礼品:
重庆来福士广场
A-Zenith
Castiglion del Bosco
Clé de Peau Beauté肌肤之钥
Franck Muller
Gulfstream
Kent&Curwen
Rosewood Beijing
Sunraysia
Soneva Fuishi
这游园京梦夜已落下帷幕,感谢所有嘉宾共聚这美好一夜,希望来年有更多新朋友加入,让我们相约明年TATLER Ball!
更多TATLER Ball的精彩报道,请点击:
TATLER Ball 2017正在上演,华丽社交夜抢先看!
史上最豁出去的主编欢迎文 为了TATLER Ball拼了 - 倒计时1天
上得Ball场下得厅堂的Lillian珠宝盒大揭秘 - 倒计时2天
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「 THE PEACOCK ROOM 」美国著名印象派画家詹姆斯·惠斯勒(James McNeill Whistler)重要室内作品,被认为是西方 19 世纪末的东方经典之作。Well-known interior work by the famous Impressionism (James McNeill Whistler)It is considered to be the Oriental classics of the Western 19 century.


以这场百年前“艺术与金钱的纠葛”为灵感来源,我们把这样一个西方艺术的经典之作带到上海兴业太古汇。Inspired by this century ago "art and money entanglements",We extend such a classic of Western art to Shanghai.
60 人超长主餐桌,Main Dinning Area用餐空间灵活运用。60 people super long table setting up in the middle of dining hall and flexible use upon requested.







两间中西风格的贵宾室,细致优雅,满足客人的不同所需。
The dining hall with two Chinese and Western style function rooms,exquisite and elegant, to meet the different needs of guests.





出品总厨 Sam Zhang,出生于马来西亚,游历全球后加入全球各大顶级酒店,深谙中西料理之精华,在川粤菜肴的创意搭配上,以国际水准为客人们带来独特的感官享受。Operation Executive Chef Sam Zhang, born in Malaysia.Travel around the world to join the world's top hotels, familiar with the essence of Chinese and Western cuisine,Sichuan Cantonese Cuisine in the creative mix, with international standards for guests to bring unique sensory enjoyment.











意大利侍酒师 Matteo 先生,于 The Peacock Room 始创之际受邀加入,致力于从世界葡萄酒名庄中挑选天作之合融合创新的川粤菜肴。他之前曾就职 Armani Hotel Dubai 等国际知名酒店。Mr. Matteo, who served as Beverage Manager,Invited to join the Peacock when prepare to establish.Committed to the selection of wine from the world to choose the perfect blend of innovative Sichuan Cantonese dishes.He has previously worked at Armani Hotel Dubai and other international renowned hotels.










顶楼城市之心景观露台和酒吧,在春天到来之际欢迎诸位前来赏光。(尚未开放)
THE PEACOCK ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CHINESE DINING
石门一路180号香港兴业太古汇S301
RSVP:021-52391999
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蒋晨
温俊宇(右)
毛愫培
余晚晚
李叶(右)
王嘉莉
邱思婷
朱敏
邹茜茜
隋亚玲
一年一度的TATLER Ball从来不仅是社交盛会,更是名媛们锦衣华服璀璨登场的时尚之夜。我们在游园“京”梦夜捕捉了10个身姿俏丽、装扮贴合"摩登东方"的迷人身影,作为今年优雅淑媛们的代表。
更多TATLER Ball的精彩报道,请点击:
亚洲年度社交盛会TATLER Ball,每年就等这一天
TATLER Ball 2017正在上演,华丽社交夜抢先看!
史上最豁出去的主编欢迎文 为了TATLER Ball拼了 - 倒计时1天
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延續植根於阿斯特家族重視天倫之樂的品牌傳统。不論是家庭中的年幼成員或是資深旅行家,各年齡層的賓客皆能透過獨具匠心的餐飲體驗與池畔活動,領略精緻生活的真諦。系列揉合以精緻度假為靈感所設計的趣味印花,富探險玩味的配飾以及經典太陽傘條紋設計,為家庭創旅行造難忘時光。香港瑞吉酒店總經理唐德權(Richard Taffs)先生表示:「我們非常高興在今夏將這合作帶到城中至臻地點,在香港瑞吉酒店締造令人沉醉的海濱度假氛圍,誠邀四方尊貴賓客蒞臨共享此全新沉浸式法式體驗。」

Vilebrequin法式池畔體驗
賓客可在香港瑞吉酒店一睹南法聖特羅佩的盛夏風情,沉浸於Vilebrequin主題池畔體驗。這片都市綠洲不僅提供奢華躺椅、限量手工意式雪糕與匠心池畔美饌,佐以合家歡遊戲點綴其間,邀請賓客遁入逸樂之境,在尊尚地段締造雅緻無憂的夏日假期。此外,酒店內同步呈獻Vilebrequin期間限定店,匯聚精選泳裝與度假服飾系列,其中更包括香港瑞吉酒店獨家發售的專屬限量印花列。
夏日限定下午茶味覺盛宴
今年夏天,於香港瑞吉酒店The Drawing Room大堂酒廊呈獻夏日限定下午茶,靈感源自Vilebrequin系列的繽紛色彩,誠邀賓客投入一場洋溢陽光與創意的味覺盛宴。
香港瑞吉酒店行政副總廚鄭曉峰(Hugo Cheng)及甜品主廚冼湯美(Tommy Sin)匠心設計一系列夏日鹹甜美點,並以今季大熱的開心果為主題。甜品方面,賓客可品嚐色彩繽紛的開心果馬斯卡彭芝士蛋糕(Parmigiano & Pistachio),將紅桑子、黑加侖果醬、馬斯卡彭芝士及牛油沙布列餅底層層結合;開心果慕斯蛋糕(Pistachio Mousse Cake)則選用輕盈開心果海綿蛋糕、
香脆脆層和開心果果仁醬,配以芒果熱情果珍珠,帶來多重口感。

驚喜之選包括開心果可麗露(Pistachio Cannelé),內藏濃郁開心果果仁醬,外層覆以幼滑開心果甘納許;焙茶瑪德蓮(Hojicha Madeleine)則以香濃焙茶蛋糕配合醇厚焙茶甘納許,層次分明。柑橘撻(CitrusTart)糅合多款柑橘、柚子杏仁忌廉、檸檬果醬及橙香忌廉,酸甜清新。鹹點方面,推介煙三文魚球(Smoked Salmon Sphere),以阿拉斯加蟹肉、青瓜及山葵蛋黃醬入饌,鮮味突出;油甘魚小吃(Hamachi Crudo)則以青芒果、芒果、青木瓜及柑橘調配,口感爽脆怡人。整個下午茶系列共十六款鹹甜小點,賓客可自選八款心水組合,專屬打造個人夏日美食時光。
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图1. MUJI全新米糠发酵精华水(左)、米糠发酵精华液(右)
MUJI从人、自然和物品的理想关系出发,将「自然的力量」的理念深深植根于护肤系列产品之中。MUJI认为肌肤本是自然产物,自然自有巨大能量,当功效源于自然万物,肌肤便不会脆弱,其生态也能如自然生态一般,重新复苏。因此,MUJI从自然之中汲取灵感,倡导肌肤与自然共生。
此次全新推出的米糠发酵精华系列,选用的核心成分米糠是由糙米加工成白米时产生的粉(糠层和胚芽),它们虽然只占整颗糙米很小一部分,却蕴含了大部分微量营养素。MUJI关注到这些“自古以来被认为对护肤有益”的天然素材,以及米糠本身具有的良好功效。以米糠发酵产物为主要成分开发得到了米糠发酵精华系列护肤品,帮助肌肤先于开始,沉浸天然。
图2. 由糙米加工成白米时产生的米糠
MUJI米糠发酵精华系列提出“护肤第0步”的概念,它使用在洁面之后,化妆水之前,主要用于为肌肤打底。其中含有的小分子氨基酸,能软化肌肤角质层,使后续护肤步骤中的护肤产品更易吸收,有效提升肌肤弹力,令肌肤保湿滋润。此外,MUJI米糠发酵精华液添加了65%以上米糠发酵液,可以令肌肤柔润光滑,有助于细致毛孔,提升肌肤弹力。同时,MUJI着眼肌肤自身蕴含的润泽成分,添加敏感肌肤易缺乏的神经酰胺和5种氨基酸,有效舒缓肌肤泛红,改善脆弱的状态,修护强韧肌肤。
图3. 适用于干燥肌肤的米糠发酵精华液
针对不同肤质的使用者,MUJI米糠发酵精华系列提供两款产品:米糠发酵精华液(50mL),适用于干燥肌肤人群,质地醇厚湿润,使用感偏粘稠,注重保湿功效;米糠发酵精华水,适用于油性和混合型肌肤人群,质地轻盈滋润,使用感偏清爽,可搭配面膜、喷头等不同单品,带来多种用法。米糠发酵精华水提供50mL至300mL三种规格选择,满足日常护理与差旅需求。
图4. 米糠发酵精华水提供三种规格选择
MUJI一直致力于倡导和构建可持续的生活方式,在开发护肤系列产品时,除了采用对肌肤友好的成分,也注重选用对环境友好的原材料与包装。将糙米变成白米过程中,本会被丢弃的米糠作为新的资源被充分利用,是MUJI对自然馈赠的珍惜;护肤品的空瓶可通过部分门店回收,是MUJI对环境保护的心意; 精华水圆肩形状的瓶身设计,能使比较醇厚的液体也可以用到最后一滴,是MUJI对物尽其用理念的践行。
MUJI米糠发酵精华系列,加乘肌肤吸收力,让肌肤与自然共生。真正的护肤需要肌肤与自然的连接,而“先于开始,肌肤沉浸天然”之时便是对肌肤细心呵护的开始。9月起,MUJI将陆续推出米糠发酵洗护系列、彩妆系列等产品,满足消费者多样化的需求。一直以来,MUJI汲取「自然的力量」,将自然的馈赠融入每一款护肤商品之中,通过日常护肤为消费者带去肌肤与自然的亲近,提供自然而然,美好持续的「良感生活」。
【关于MUJI】
MUJI無印良品所有的活动以顾客为中心,真诚营造良感生活,通过经营活动让所有伙伴幸福。未来,MUJI将继续秉持初心,不断探索创新,将更多符合中国消费者需求、能够提升生活品质的产品带入中国市场。
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Westwood《她和她的珠宝展》亚洲首展于上海前滩太古里揭幕之际,前滩香格里拉以"舌尖为画布",推出联名主题下午茶《她和她的珠宝展》,将品牌标志性的朋克美学与餐饮艺术深度融合,为都市精英打造一场跨越时空的味觉起义。
此次跨界合作以Vivienne Westwood 珠宝设计为灵感源泉,将品牌的先锋理念注入餐饮创作。甜品师从品牌DNA中提炼出"混沌与秩序"的核心哲学,匠心独运的设计了四款甜品与三种咸点,演绎朋克文化对传统美学的颠覆与重构。

文化碰撞:符号解构与东方叙事
甜品设计将Vivienne Westwood的品牌元素转化为可食用艺术:【香草白巧克力乌龙水蜜桃】以土星logo造型亮相,乌龙茶慕斯与水蜜桃啫喱在巧克力外壳下交织,香草气息引领味蕾穿越时空。【咖啡酒酿提拉米苏】则以东方酒酿替代朗姆酒,咖啡的醇厚与马斯卡彭的绵密碰撞出跨文化的火花,恰如Vivienne Westwood对多元文化的汲取与重构。【蜜瓜红丝绒马斯卡】则是以蜜瓜的果香嵌于红丝绒蛋糕的丝绒质感中,顶层以巧克力呈现出CHAOS系列标志性元素,混沌与秩序在此达成甜蜜和解。【柑橘香橙蛋糕】以尖锐酸度刺破甜腻,橙色爱心造型暗藏甜蜜宣言,成为西太后对浪漫的趣味注脚。

味觉革命:叛逆基因的甜蜜转译
首道咸点作品【华尔道夫色拉脆皮挞】以Vivienne Westwood本人的健康饮食谱为灵感, 将经典华尔道夫色拉封印于酥脆挞壳之中。 核桃的粗粝、苹果的清甜与西芹的脆爽交织, 低脂轻盈却饱含层次感。【红宝石三明治】慕斯般的绵密口感与无花果酱的天然甜润碰撞,红加仑的微酸点亮味蕾。【波士顿龙虾水蜜桃挞配鱼籽酱】中,龙虾的鲜甜与水蜜桃的清润碰撞鱼籽酱的爆裂感,在优雅中掀起味觉起义。我们特别选用遵循完整可持续生态发展体系的鱼子酱,让味觉的奢华体验与地球的可持续发展在盘中达成诗意共鸣。
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Erziak),始终心怀高级定制梦想,“母亲作为女装裁缝的工作场景,令我永生难忘。”尽管最初投身商业地产领域,对高定的向往最终促使她创立个人品牌。即将在巴黎高级定制周发布其第六款高定系列,Erziak将此刻形容为"既是圆满,更是开端"。
她的人生在巴黎与纽约间流转,这一双城经历深刻影响着她的创作。巴黎,这座代表传统与精湛工艺的城市,是她创意的锚点;而活力四射、大胆奔放的纽约,则推动她不断自我革新。“正是两座城市间的张力,催生了我许多创意灵感。”她如是说。作为巴黎高级定制周官方认证的不到40家品牌之一,Erziak既感殊荣亦知责任重大。在致敬传统与传承经典的同时,她始终坚守一个信念:高定的本质,是源于创造的喜悦——“我们是以创造力孕育美的艺术家。”
Erziak用三个关键词概括品牌DNA——诗意,雕塑感,深思熟虑。每件作品始于情感共鸣,礼赞人体曲线,最终成就富于深意、极致考究的艺术杰作。她心目中的缪斯大胆热烈、绽放感官魅力、忠于自我。"我为自信彰显存在感的女性而设计,"她解释道,期待源于我手的高定礼服,能赋予女性力量,让她们获得"光芒四射的自洽状态"。
对于Erziak,高定礼服的诞生之旅源于直觉——"始于一丝灵感絮语或某种情绪"——从草图绘制、面料甄选到与匠人密切合作,最终通过反复试装实现人衣对话的合一境界。“只有当礼服完美贴合穿着者时,才算真正完成。”工作室的私人试装体验因人而异、皆为量身定制的专属体验,或静谧优雅,或热烈欢庆,“这关乎直觉、专注、在场感,让女性与服装真正相遇。”她强调。
谈及最想为之设计的历史名人,Erziak列举了以艺术力量见长的约瑟芬·贝克(Joséphine Baker)、象征永恒优雅的格蕾丝·凯莉(Grace Kelly)以及深具文化共鸣的乌姆·库尔图姆(Oum Kalthoum)。而她心中永恒的缪斯,仍是母亲——“世间最优雅、高贵、光彩照人的女性”。
目前,Erziak正专注于私人客户高定项目,其创意能量还延伸至室内设计领域,包括纽约苏豪区旧糖厂改造的loft公寓,以及面朝阿特拉斯山脉的马拉喀什传统庭院。对她而言,这些空间是另一块"构筑神圣之境"的画布,印证其对美与工艺的执着追求。
Maison Lena Erziak创意总监莱娜·埃里亚克(Lena Erziak)


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Queen)"系列,带领我们步入魔法与优雅交织的冬日仙境。"冰雪女王是我心中永恒的天后,是充满魔力的时尚缪斯。"加兹扎如是说。
设计师将对这位童话女王的挚爱倾注于每一件作品,完美诠释冬季的优雅、神秘与壮美。系列中闪耀的人造皮草宛若初雪般纯净,精致的水晶刺绣与配饰则捕捉了冰凌与冻湖的灵动神韵,均由INCLOVER资深匠人手工打造,细节之处尽显极致初心。大地色亮片折射雪地湿润的光泽,朦胧轻纱勾勒雾霭氤氲的湖面,柔美粉红则预示着暮色将临的飘雪天空。珠饰与玻璃装饰的蕾丝诉说霜花的精妙,而压轴之作的新娘头冠更是以逼真冰锥造型手工打造,堪称冰雪女王的加冕之冠。"这一系列将带您走进魔幻雪夜,"加兹扎深情说道,"每一位身着INCLOVER的女性,都是自己的女王。"
谈及时尚未来,加兹扎特别强调女性的主导地位:"当代女性正以其强大的社会影响力重塑潮流与需求,重新定义审美标准。女性设计师往往更注重穿着体验,在舒适性与多功能性间寻找平衡,创造出真正源于生活的设计。不同文化背景的女性都在寻求能与自身传统、身份产生共鸣的时尚表达,这种多元需求正在拓展全球时尚的边界。"她特别指出女性主导品牌在可持续发展方面的贡献:"女性设计师始终站在道德生产的前沿,积极推动公平薪酬、工人权益等系统性变革。"通过INCLOVER,加兹扎·沙布达巴耶娃在梦幻与现实间自如穿梭,打造出既恪守责任又令人怦然心动的时尚臻品。
INCLOVER创始人兼设计师加兹扎·沙布达巴耶娃(Gaziza Shabdarbayeva)







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15:18:24";s:6:"status";s:1:"1";s:10:"publish_at";s:19:"2017-05-02 00:00:00";s:12:"unpublish_at";N;s:4:"type";s:5:"style";s:11:"luxury_news";N;s:11:"advertorial";N;s:12:"people_story";N;s:8:"top_list";s:1:"0";s:5:"title";s:51:"婚礼穿什么?写给男士的婚礼穿著指南";s:4:"deck";s:0:"";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:4770:"无论是新郎,伴郎还是婚礼嘉宾,在这个重特殊的日子里,得体的着装才能令你保持最佳状态。随着婚礼季的到来,男士该如何挑选婚礼服装?你需要以下建议。
晨礼服
晨礼服仍然是英国婚礼上被广泛接受的着装要求。这套正装由细长的人字羊毛制成的经典黑色燕尾服,搭配条纹或犬牙纹长裤、以及对比色调的单排或双排扣马甲组成。 通常保留给皇家的三件套灰色晨礼服也可以成为新郎的替代选择。

Ede&Ravenscroft
一件传统的带有可拆卸衣领的的衬衫搭配丝绸领带。裤子应该稍稍高于腰部,裤脚在鞋子的顶部,裤子前方有一条轻微的裤线,裤子的后面在鞋跟的上方。灰色或黑色的礼帽并非必需,但应始终在婚礼上携带。
黑领结(Black Tie)
黑领结在婚礼上变得越来越普遍,并会在请柬中注明。传统的黑领结由黑色高腰翻领的羊毛晚装外套,晚装长裤以及配有黑色领结的白衬衫构成。

Ede&Ravenscroft
婚礼西装
通常,对于更现代的或城市婚礼而言,西装是晨礼服的替代品,有各种颜色和面料的选择。外套的款式是个人喜好,单排双扣或三扣外套是最受欢迎的选项。新郎可能希望在造型中有更多的乐趣,也许会通过不同的翻领形状或口袋细节来进行个性化选择。

彩色,深蓝色,中灰色和木炭色是最安全和最通用的颜色,但不要害怕根据您的个人品味,风格和婚礼主题来玩色调。布料的类型也是一个重要的考虑因素,较浅色调的棉和亚麻布,为目的地婚礼或夏季婚礼提供了更多的选择。
Ede&Ravenscroft
配件饰品
晨礼服的衬衫应该有一个厚重的衣领,如果衬衫衣领比较简单,则可以搭配婚礼西装。平扣或法式扣是个人的选择,但衬衫袖口应该不超过西装或礼服的袖口半英寸。
婚礼马甲也有穿着规范,如果穿双排扣马甲,则底部按钮应保持松开。他们应该舒适地位于腰带之上,完全遮盖衬衫。许多新郎喜欢穿着不同颜色的马甲,以脱颖而出,参加婚礼派对的其他环节。
当涉及到正装鞋类时,请保持简洁而优雅,搭配经典的牛津鞋,就像Sweeney系带鞋,或者是适合于黑领结或白领结的Overton专利鞋。
优雅的饰品配件是个性化您的婚礼外观的轻松方式。从豪华的丝绸领带,到经典的口袋巾,以及独特的袖扣,都能为你的婚礼装扮增色不少。
《尚流TATLER》的小建议:
- 与新娘一起检查配色方案!
- 不要比婚礼派对更正式。如有疑问,请在邀请函上查看着装要求。
- 不要解开双排扣晚礼服。
- 晨礼服下摆应该到膝关节。
- 不要在最后一刻才定做西装
如果想寻求独一无二的精美套装,你可以尝试Ede&Ravenscroft的量身定做或个人定制服务:
Ede&Ravenscroft是伦敦最古老的服装店,并在1689年获得了第一个皇家委认状,当时被委托制作威廉和玛丽加冕的长袍。 Ede&Ravenscroft致力于提供建立了其声誉的传统价值观,持有三个皇家授权,并为世界各地的男士和女士制作优质的服装。
量身定做:Ede&Ravenscroft 的裁缝将为你量体裁衣,手工制作精美独特的服装,完美贴合您的个人风格。
个人定制:在技术顾问的指导下,你以选择广泛的布料,饰面和款式,为自己定制与众不同的西装。
详询:www.edeandravenscroft.com
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Ball史上最难主题!";s:4:"deck";s:56:"90后投资人余晚晚受邀出席并享受最高礼遇";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:3921:"素有“时尚奥斯卡”之称的Met Ball(又称Met Gala)于美国时间5月1日晚在纽约大都会举行。作为每年5月初最受期待的时尚盛世,Met Ball永远能吸引到各界名流、明星、时尚人士、超模出席。

Met Ball是纽约大都市艺术博物馆时装馆每年都会举办的慈善晚宴。除了到场嘉宾以外,每年Met Ball最受关注的莫过于它独特的着装主题。主办方会提前公布着装主题,明星名流则会根据这个主题选择相应的着装。
2015年的Met Ball主题是“镜花水月”。这一颇具中国风的主题舞会,也邀请到了有史以来最多的中国明星。
今年,Anna Wintour又增加了主题难度,今年的主题是:Rei Kawakubo 川久保玲。这位今年已经75岁的设计大师,影响了时尚界将近40多年!
她以激进的“反时尚态度”著称。她的设计也如同她的时装态度一样,是让人敬仰却看不懂的存在。
果然,在这一有史以来最难的主题影响下,今年的红毯可谓精彩纷呈。

水果姐Katy Perry一看就是有在认真答题

巴西国宝级超模吉赛尔·邦辰,一身银色露背晚礼服,窈窕曲线尽显
到场的中国明星,杨幂和刘雯,也是表现不俗


除了到场的中国明星以外,还有一位独特的中国女孩,她就是余晚晚Wendy Yu。

与大多明星由品牌邀请不同,余晚晚本次以时尚科技投资人、Met 博物馆的赞助人以及青年慈善家的身份,由美版Vogue主编以及Met Gala主席Anna Wintour亲自邀请出席舞会。
作为Anna Wintour亲邀的嘉宾,她还享受了Met Ball的最高礼遇——由Anna Wintour的团队以及美版Vogue高层亲自为她挑选礼服,安排在Vogue US的总部试衣,试衣过程中美版Vogue Fashion Director Tonne Goodman以及市场部总监Virginia Smith 全程陪同,获得了以往任何中国明星都没有受到过的重视和礼遇。当晚,Anna还安排了德国公主Elisabeth Von Thurn Und Taxis 陪伴余晚晚出席Met Gala。



作为国内(包括港澳台地区)目前为止第一位也是唯一一位受Anna Wintour本人邀请参加Met Ball的90后女孩,余晚晚一身露肩鱼尾裙,大气中带着些许甜美。礼服来自美国新锐设计师Zac Posen,珠宝出自著名高级珠宝设计师Anna Hu胡茵菲之手。

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Weekend)于4月14日精彩亮相上海展览中心,为期三天的首创“浸入式”时尚狂欢活动终于揭开神秘面纱。本次活动顺应大众消费结构升级的趋势,以青年一代的全新“体验”为理念,力邀时尚、音乐、艺术大咖助阵,革新地将时装秀场、买手圣地、交互文化艺术展等创意结合,在拉近时尚和年轻消费者距离的同时,打造整合产品、内容和服务为一体的生活方式大IP,邀请全民齐“浸 Fashion”,连续三天每天9小时即看即买即秀玩转时尚。黄晓明,姚晨,张亮,奚梦瑶,苏芒,冯楚轩等明星以及业内大咖都纷纷为活动点赞。

由左⾄右领导及嘉宾:上海市商务委员会市场体系建设处处⻓周岚、奚梦瑶、Lyn Slater、上海市静安区副区⻓周海鹰、上海时装周组委会副主任/上海市商务委员会副主任刘敏、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、上海市静安区商务委员会主任任少南
国内外明星大咖助阵,陪你一起“浸 Fashion”
时尚周末携手各界明星和大咖,为沪上热爱时尚的年轻群体,奉献一场世界顶级水平的先锋的“浸入式”展览和时尚狂欢,各界明星大咖更是以全新形式,和大众互动:
64岁的银发博主Lyn Slater将在Fashion Lab这一全方位交流平台中,提出了自己的主张——时尚即为你的生活态度,永远没有为时过晚一说。她通过分享自己的故事,用国际的视角阐述“时尚为⼈民服务”这一理念;魔都潮⼈李怡霖也将向观众述说其“亚文化”纹身的故事;网红“鼻祖”陈星如更将在此畅谈其网红进化史;著名歌手袁娅维不仅带来现场表演,更聊起音乐背后的故事。国际超模奚梦瑶,也亲身体验“浸入式”跨界合作,于时尚周末首发其携手携程的跨界设计作品,并亲临现场和到场观众亲密互动。

由左⾄右嘉宾:永柏盛业影视基⾦管理合伙人马骏、奚梦瑶、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、中润基⾦总裁齐英

银发时尚博主Lyn Slater
国内外知名时尚品牌和新秀设计师加盟,即秀即买过足“买手”瘾
国际著名时装设计师MASHA MA带来最新MASHAMA X LOFi 17秋冬系列,让普通大众也能感受国际时装周头排看秀的体验,融入了CyberPunk科技感廓形和材质的设计作品,也呈现出千禧一代推崇个性和冒险的精神态度,也使时尚大秀真真正正地“为⼈民服务”。


作为中国第一家专业的Showroom,时堂携手时尚周末,不仅带领设计师和品牌试水直面消费者市场,还让大众过把“时尚买手”瘾。鹦鹉螺市集和意大利买手制百货COSCIA带来的一线大牌惊喜低价,切实直观地让时尚为人民服务这一理念的落地开花。
时尚是艺术的一部分,而艺术则是生活的一种形式。上海时尚周末通过一系列活动,激发普通人对于时尚的思考、对美好生活的向往和对未来的期待,这种自上而下的思考和参与,正是“时尚为⼈民服务”的内涵所在。

浸入式的文化艺术盛宴,将“生活艺术化”落地开花
为了呈现一场全方位的时尚感官盛宴,各界艺术家也纷纷“各显神通”,令广大看客不虚此⾏:作为两度斩获格莱美奖的音乐家,Dana Leong与国际知名品牌、艺⼈广泛开展合作,此次也积极加入到时尚周末,更是要和沪上的年轻大众“合作”——通过百⼈冥想的Work-Shop,传达他对时尚周末“浸入式”观点的认同:任何文化艺术形式,只有大众的亲身参与,才能拥有更大的能量和意义。
艺术家宋洋携其艺术作品形象“Bad Girl”也倾力加入上海时尚周末,展现新自由主义的生活态度,和自我且主见的女性先锋认知。
除此之外,各类“浸入式”惊喜9小时不间断,大大提高了活动的趣味性和参与度:DJ音乐狂欢、近距离接触芝麻街卡通巨型⼈偶、交换神秘面具、免费领养多肉植物,更有拳击互动体验、助力公益事业。



时尚周末将时尚元素从其固有环境中剥离,从参观者体验的角度出发,一方面还原时装设计的人文和社会属性,另一方面赋予参观者体会和掌握时尚脉动的力量,挑战每个人的时尚理念乃至时尚消费方式。
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听李晓玲艺述美好";s:4:"deck";s:549:"她出生于贵族世家,多年旅居法国,并游走世界各地捕获艺术灵感;她敏感而富有爱心,常年关注慈善教育;她树立了独特鲜明的个人风格,备受品牌青睐,成为艺术文化传播的使者;她闪亮耀眼,出现在时尚
杂志里的次数并不亚于明星…… 著名艺术家李晓玲由内而外地散发着名流气息,曾经的荣誉和成就在她身上凝聚成一种沉淀过后的淡然之美。常年在世界各地到处行走,让她更加珍惜在每一个地方的时光。";s:6:"author";s:27:"《尚流TATLER》四月刊";s:7:"content";s:10604:"在李晓玲最近的一条朋友圈中,她写道:“如果你只是等待,发生的事情只会是你变老了。”从最早以“京城四大名媛”之一的身份出现在大众的视野中,至今多年的时光中,她一直都没有停下自己探索世界和发现自我的脚步。作为一名女性艺术家,李晓玲将自己的触角延伸到世界,在生活感悟中汲取艺术灵感。她行走各地,在思想意识上彻底敞开自己,与不同的人和建筑对话,将每次的感悟凝练在自己的绘画中。
艺术让人自由并富有力量
多年前,李晓玲旅居法国,她乐此不疲地参观各大美术馆和画廊的展览,发现西方的油画作品和东方的水墨画之间迥异的差别。她所坚持的水墨画意境看似很简洁,却是中华5000年历史文化的沉淀。李晓玲开始将东方的哲学思想结合西方的绘画材料进行创作,这条国际化的艺术之路,让更多的西方人了解到东方文化艺术的智慧,李晓玲的创新艺术风格从而也被称为“新古典主义”。而这种传统文化与现代技法的相融,在她看来只是艺术的一种技法和表现形式,艺术家最重要的还是要多去观察和感受,然后真实地表达自我思想和意识,包括对人、对环境、对社会及对未来的思考。
多年艺术创作的坚持和沉淀,使得李晓玲获得过诸多奖项,其中不乏“意大利但丁荣誉勋章”、入选《世界华人艺术家成就大典》等殊荣。在这众多的成就中,李晓玲更看重的是这些称号背后的公平和专业性,行业大奖的鼓励和认可更坚定了她自己的艺术使命,使她成为一个不断完善自我的女性。艺术带给了李晓玲无限的力量,就像她一直强调的独立女性理想:“做一个独立的女人首先要思想独立,有主见、有自己的人生观、价值观;有上进心,永远不放弃自己的理想;做一份自己喜爱的事业,拥有快乐和成就感。自由建立在一定的经济基础之上,实现经济上的独立,从而掌控自己的命运和未来,不依赖男人、自强自立的女人才更自信,更有人格魅力!”
马背上的艺术与生活
在李晓玲的艺术作品中, 马是她尤为喜爱的一个创作元素。她经常骑马,观察马的眼睛和身形,用自己的方式和独有的艺术语言来描绘心中的马。在她看来,马不仅外形健美,其坚毅的精神更让人动容,马天生就是为奔跑而生的。这种对马的无限热衷和种种渊源,还使得她获得了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的“驭马锋尚大使”称号。
回忆起3年前第一次在上海观看赛马的经历,李晓玲依然记忆犹新。她参与的CHC所主持的第一个CECF驭马文化节的公益项目称为“马被上的艺术”,CHC首开先河,创意地把马被与现代艺术画作结合。马被一般会披在冠军马的身上,而艺术画作被复制于马被上,于赛事日前一晚进行慈善拍卖,充分发挥了其艺术的社会价值。当马赛当天,冠军马跑完全程来到李晓玲的身边,全身湿透的样子让她感到极为震撼——马背上披着她亲手绘制的冠军艺术毯,还带着兴奋的眼神。李晓玲第一次在动物身上发现那样的眼神和气质,几乎和一个意志坚定的人没什么区别,这让她更加喜欢和欣赏马,更深入地去了解马的身份和角色。
隔年,李晓玲再次受邀参与2015 CECF新加坡驭马文化节的慈善鸡尾酒会,在新加坡地标之一的滨海湾金沙艺术科学博物馆内,与其他5位来自中国、法国及爱尔兰的艺术家们共同展示了约20件的艺术作品,并在当晚作慈善拍卖。而恰巧在2015 CECF新加坡驭马文化节举办前夕,她也获得CHC的大力支持,赞助了她在法国巴黎小皇宫举办的个展《面怀美好2》,部分在新加坡展出的画作就是从法国个展结束后空运而至的。2016年鄂尔多斯国际驭马文化节上,她还策划邀请了其他四位画家无偿贡献个人珍藏画作参与慈善拍卖,所得善款均用于支持中国残疾人联合会及高校的人才培养。
谈起与CHC杰士马主俱乐部的结缘, 李晓玲感慨万分:“我在一个机缘巧合的情况下认识了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的创始人张祖德主席。张主席是一位非常具有远见卓识及魄力的绅士。我记得张主席曾经告诉我说,他的父亲在离世前曾经叮咛他,若有一天他在事业上有所成就后,一定要回到祖国贡献其力量。同时,张主席也是一名著名的建筑设计师,毕业于美国哈佛大学,他在2010年的时候在迪拜完成了世界最大、最奢华的赛马场——迈丹赛马场;由此张主席看到了国内马产业巨大的发展空间及与国际接轨上的距离,所以促使他带着本身的专业回到他父亲的故土,希望能够以自己的绵力贡献力量。这让我为之震动及钦佩。” 与慈善及艺术文化结合一直是CHC所推崇的,通过CHC杰士马主俱乐部基金会致力于推动中国赛马产业的发展:与国内高校合作;增进中国年轻骑师人才的技能培训和发展;帮助有特殊需要的孩童;为他们提供机遇平台与资金扶持。这种大爱的精神,更加坚定了李晓玲投身其中的决心,这在她看来是非常有意义和价值的,也是她特别愿意去做的事情。
“王者运动”带来的格局和质感
在李晓玲的印象中,速度赛马在西方国家是一个已经融入社会的文化象征,像闻名世界的英国爱斯科特赛马嘉年华、澳大利亚墨尔本杯及美国育马者杯等盛事,已经不全然只是一个赛马运动而已。每年,因赛场上的美食、时尚、慈善活动慕名而来的观众不胜枚举,俨然形成了一个城市甚至是国家的品牌号召力。CHC杰士马主俱乐部所发起的CECF驭马文化节,先后连续四年在内蒙古呼和浩特、内蒙古鄂尔多斯、上海、湖北武汉及新加坡盛大举办。李晓玲参与了每一届的驭马文化节,伴随着四年来驭马文化节不断的成长和进展,她感受到马场上文娱时尚的优雅气息。在她看来,赛马不仅仅只是一项运动,更是一种深层次、高品质生活风尚的呈现。
自成为CHC驭马锋尚大使后,李晓玲更加深入地了解到速度赛马世界的广阔天地和更高格局,并有机会结识了各界翘楚精英,同时她也借以艺术的力量,推动速度赛马运动的传播。“众所周知,速度赛马是一项‘王者运动’,一直以来得到许多王室成员与上流社会的喜爱。赛马场上所展现的速度激情、华美的时尚和千金难买的胜利感觉,无不让生活变得更加有质感。通过CHC,我更深刻地认识到,这除了是一个让人着迷的运动之外,也是一个具有商业价值的投资。CHC的种马基金为有志趣相投的人提供一个入场通道,为投资者们带来有吸引力的投资模式。”李晓玲如是说。艺术来源于生活,CHC不同主题的会员活动给了李晓玲体验生活的无限可能性:“在私享晚宴上,汇聚各方好友一起交流分享,这也丰富了我的社交生活;除此之外,CHC也组织观摩团,到世界各地参与顶级的赛马盛事,这也打开了我的视野。因为作为一名艺术家,尽情体验生活,细心观察事物,才能创作出好的作品。”
艺术引路人
去年,李晓玲曾为一个驻留儿童的公益学校教课,她甚至还自己设计了一套教材和教学方法。开始她一直在思考从6岁到12岁的年龄跨度,怎么样的教课和沟通方式才会让这些孩子更能接受和开心。真正到课堂上之后,李晓玲跟孩子们就像朋友一样地相处,她真诚地尊重和关注每一个孩子的心理。这种沟通方式带给李晓玲很多的感悟:“即使这些孩子们的性格迥异,有内向也有外向,但他们下课都会围在我身边,问我什么时候才能再回去给他们上课。这说明我至少还算是比较受欢迎的老师,欣慰之余我获得了极大的满足和开心,我认为真正的快乐是帮助了别人,他们传达给你的信息会让人更开心、更难忘。”
在这个过程中,李晓玲同时深切感受到:绘画创作中的想象力,对孩子来说非常重要。小时候如果能受到艺术上的熏陶可以帮助他们开发创造意识,养成创造的习惯之后,才可以真正地创造自己的未来,改变自己的命运和生活,如果能帮助他们获取更多的创造能力和意识,对于他们的未来是具有引导性的。目前她最大的心愿,是把自己所知道的绘画技能,教给更多的年轻人,特别是贫困山区的孩子。“我觉得慈善是做好一个引路人,让他们自己去创造未来、改变生活。”五一劳动节后,李晓玲会继续到贫困山区,用自己的方式教小朋友画画。她想亲眼看到在自己的引导下,孩子们的意识和创造力可以得到多大的改变。她甚至决定将此作为一种研究,会一直坚持做这件事情。
同时,作为一位女性艺术家,继续举办全球性的个人展览之余,关注中国乃至全球女性的她还有另外一个计划:成立一个全球杰出女性俱乐部,帮助更多女性在平台上有更多交流和合作。去年在法国的时候,她遇到很多当地的创业女性,希望把她们设计的作品推广到中国,但苦于没有途径。“如果有了这个平台,她们就很容易找到可以合作的人。虽然我是中国的艺术家,但如果这能帮助到全球更多的女性,将是我非常开心的事情。”
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吴亦凡佩戴 Octo Finissomo Automatic出席宝格丽新品发布会


吴亦凡与 Jean-Christophe Babin, Jon Kortajarena出席宝格丽新品发布会

吴亦凡出席全球媒体见面会


吴亦凡观赏宝格丽腕表新品展

吴亦凡与宝格丽CEO Jean-Christophe Babin

宝格丽 Octo Finissomo Automatic腕表


宝格丽全新 Serpenti系列腕表

宝格丽全新 Serpenti系列腕表

宝格丽 Octo Roma腕表

宝格丽 Octo Roma腕表
吴亦凡以宝格丽品牌代言人的身份亮相宝格丽全球新品发布会。作为此次巴塞尔表展首位亮相的重磅明星,他佩戴宝格丽最受瞩目、打破超薄自动机械腕表世界纪录的Octo Finissomo Automatic出席此次发布会,薄而不简,尽显八面绅士风度,超高人气引起全场轰动。
发布会上,吴亦凡与宝格丽CEO Jean-Christophe Babin先生、宝格丽品牌代言人吴亦凡、Jon Kortajarena、Jasmine Sanders, Caroline Vreeland 和Laura Harrier一同揭幕全新腕表作品。
在宝格丽全球媒体早餐会上,吴亦凡身着绅士白色斗篷佩戴全新Octo Roma腕表亮相,并接受中外媒体的采访。说到作为宝格丽代言人的感受,他说:“创新、多变却永不丧失的个性,这正是我与宝格丽的契合之处。”来自罗马的百年品牌和东方新生代之间火花碰撞,演绎经典亦有新生。
随后,吴亦凡饶有兴趣地观赏起陈列其中的新品腕表系列,流连在Octo, Serpenti, LVCEA,BVLGARI BVLAGRI等系列新品之中,秒杀众多菲林。
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古驰全新的Neo Vintage系列包袋以充满诗意的奇幻旅程为灵感,融合品牌经典的GG Supreme印花图案,并加入创作总监亚力山卓·米开理(Alessandro Michele)独特的古驰花园设计元素,用标志性的个人风格与浪漫怀旧的意趣将传统的旅行包袋打造成独属于当代旅者的精神象征。
旅行不是简单的时空转移,而是两个时空节点的碰撞迸发出的无限可能。旅行更像是人类的本能,执迷的精神本质便来源于此,带上将经典重新诠释的Neo Vintage系列包袋,随着奇趣刺绣拼贴图案与装饰性细节踏上文艺旅程,探索美学秘境,以独到的当代旅者视角呈现多元化的自我风格。
古驰Neo Vintage系列包袋覆面超细纤维面料,搭配品牌标志性的绿红绿织带条纹滚边,诠释当代旅者风范。经典雅致的外表透露出勇敢无畏的内心,骷髅图案的细节则象征着潇洒不羁的态度。自古以来海上探险标志着一个时代的开始,交织着现实幻境的灵魂之旅迎风起航,将探索的神奇魅力注入精神世界。探索与发现的过程也让旅者不断挑战自我拓宽认知,如双G网格般将旅程点滴紧密衔接,罗织出记忆深处的动人故事。
穿越时空的奇幻旅程与浪漫复古的文艺美学构成了古驰2017春夏系列的主题,而这两种概念的融合则在Neo Vintage系列旅行包袋中得到了巧妙诠释。灵蛇与花朵象征着旅途中美和智慧的体验,不管是纹理细致的鸵鸟皮还是柔软奢华的麂皮,不同的材质均体现着对自我风格更加个性化的表述。启程意味着新的开始,回归则代表着过去与未来的衔接,经历变化重获新生的过程,起与终相互衔接;正如Neo Vintage系列所强调的复古格调与当代精神,两个时空维度的交叉带来了全新的魅力蜕变。
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来自瑞士日内瓦的著名腕表和珠宝品牌 de Grisogono,由拥有30年设计高级珠宝的品牌负责人及设计师 Fawaz Gruosi 先生于1996年创立。我们特地专访到这个华丽时尚与工艺精细并重的品牌灵魂-设计师Fawaz,谈谈品牌大胆的创意以及闻名的黑钻,与对高贵品味与奢华追求的坚持。
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毫无疑问,邓永锵先生是天生的企业家。他开创了中国传统服装品牌“上海滩”,他是“中国会”俱乐部的创始人,同时也是古巴雪茄Cohiba在加拿大,亚洲和澳大利亚的独家分销商。这个演说讲述了他从白手起家创业一步步成立大型跨国公司的历程。点开它,你会因此受巨大启发。
Lori Granito是香港最早的烹饪品牌Kitchen Sync的创始人,也是墨西哥餐厅Little Burro的联合创始人。在他的演讲中,她围绕着失败这个话题探讨为什么创业总是意味着失败,怎样理解失败是成功之母,还有她究竟通过何种努力从失败走向成功的一系列解答。
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李駿傑教你如何有效沟通,这样你就能改变他人,并对你的受众产生影响。他作为演讲教练训练了许多商界领袖,所以他总是知道自己该说什么。他也是一位成功的播客和畅销书《表达的领袖》的作者。
酷女孩Juliette Gimenez面对焦虑和恐惧一笑而过。作为另一类企业家,她有许多经历想要分享。作为Goxip的联合创始人和现任CEO,她谈到如何“振作”并直面恐惧,迎难而上,认为这是生活中不可避免的一部分。
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艾伦的《午夜巴塞罗那》令成千上万的游客慕名造访这座具有魔幻色彩的热情城市,随剧中场景(以及手上的地图)来此观光。其中有些人甚至曾有念头闪过脑海,幻想自己将在这里发生艳遇。当然,比较实际会发生的事情,还是品尝美味的西班牙海鲜饭,欣赏一段弗拉门戈舞,参观毕加索博物馆(门口购票队伍非常长,最好提前预约),以及,入住一间别具风味的奢华酒店。
下榻棉之屋酒店
棉之屋酒店(The Cotton House)这座于19世纪建成的地标建筑,曾是棉花生产商协会(Association of Cotton House Manufacturers)的总部。酒店的室内设计由屡获殊荣的西班牙室内设计师Lázaro Rosa-Violán重新设计,并在2015年1月完工。酒店于古典奢华的氛围中呈献舒适精致的现代体验。风格含蓄而华丽,在保留原本面貌的同时,更增添了色彩缤纷的现代艺术品与典雅装饰。
许多旅客会在低头从包里翻找护照准备check in时,被那古典风格的镶木地板所吸引,那是许多新式酒店难以仿造或复制的时间之诗。而当你办完入住手续,转身准备上楼时,一抬头,肯定会在瞬间被那雕花天花板震慑。天花板的雕绘受米开朗基罗杰作如梵蒂冈西斯汀教堂内的壁画所影响,充满华丽庄严的细腻格调。空间中亦陈列着摩登的现代艺术展品,与古色古香、光线充足的图书馆。经典与前卫展开奇妙的对话,为来访旅人催化出时光凝冻的情怀,也为这间酒店呈现出清新脱俗的品位。
几乎所有住过棉之屋酒店的人们,当回忆起这段难忘时光时,最先忆起的,会是位于酒店心脏、垂直贯穿这座建筑的古老螺旋形楼梯。这个造于1957年的精妙结构,宛如无尽延伸的纽带,通往神圣的穹顶,令人情不自禁地将手搭上扶把,如古堡探秘般拾级回旋而上。除了美得令人屏息的建筑, 极致贴心的服务,这间五星级酒店之所以深受旅游达人青睐,还有3个重要原因,那就是:location、location、location !酒店位于巴塞罗那市中心的Eixample区,距离城中最著名的购物中心Passeig de Gràcia大街仅有300米之遥。当然,购物恐怕不会是人们来到巴塞罗那的主要任务。住在这里的好处是,宾客可轻松步行前往参观建筑师高迪的代表作米拉公寓(La Pedrera), 巴特洛公寓(Casa Batlló)和圣家堂(Sagrada Familia)。
如果你对自己的方向感实在没信心,不妨报名由礼宾部组织的私人文化游。行程包括欣赏历史悠久的加泰罗尼亚新艺术风格珠宝,以及参观—联合国教科文组织遗产——高迪修建的教堂地下室。既然来到如此热情洋溢的城市,想感受速度与激情的你,也可以参加迷你Cambrio车驾驶体验,享受地中海风带来的无尽浪漫。
味蕾与灵魂的礼赞
作为傲途格精选酒店(万豪国际酒店集团旗下的特色酒店品牌)的一员,棉之屋酒店不仅在外观装饰上独树一帜,更提供了多样别具人文气息的礼宾服务,与风味精致的餐饮选择,因此荣获了著名国际旅馆协会Les Clefs d'Or颁发的“金钥匙”奖。既然以“棉”为名,当然不免令人联想到天然舒适的织品。的确,这里曾是巴塞罗那裁缝和衬衫制造商为协会成员量度尺寸的地点。如今,酒店亦请来城中最负盛名的裁缝店Santa Eulalia,为宾客提供专业手工缝制服务。
此外,83间精品客房和5间套房,室内设计灵感均源自棉花,以简约大方的白、黑和棕三色为主色调。客房名字取自纺织品,以高档现代设施奉上纯棉般舒适体验。酒店配备300支埃及棉床单、600克重毛巾以及产自地中海的Ortigia纯天然化妆品。
如果你在夏日时光造访,肯定会想到顶楼的户外游泳池享受日光浴。而位于一侧的Mayan Spa 水疗中心,更是释放旅途疲惫的绝佳选择。虽说巴塞罗那街上的美食不少,但既然下榻于此,一定要尝尝酒店里Batuar餐厅的特色鸡尾酒,与地道正宗的现代西班牙风味美食。
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Wouter Aarts and Michael Sun

黄伯伦和荀为华
丙申岁末,法国美食会中国区的年度晚宴回到了暌违已久的上海明天万豪酒店,此次的主题也是非常有趣的皇家赌场007。活动以授勋仪式开场,此次授勋由法国美食会中国区会长黄伯伦主持。多位美食美酒爱好者们在黄会长的带领下宣誓对美食艺术和会员情谊的忠诚,并接受授勋。众多海外会员们也盛装捧场。
林栋甫、张文倩和李京伦
曾钱惟真、潘小小和曾志明
Silvio Rosenberger and Julia Rosenberger
何平南和夏台凤
主办方上海明天万豪酒店给来宾们带来了惊喜,随后的鸡尾酒会和晚宴以皇家赌场007为主题,来宾们纷纷手持道具手枪拍照,炫酷无比。是日的美食与美酒亦令大家交口称赞。晚宴过后,在现场乐队的伴奏下,大家即兴起舞,将欢乐延续至午夜时分。
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惊叹!原来时尚也能如此环保?";s:4:"deck";s:306:"伴随着时尚更迭的速度越来越快,时装行业给整个环境带来的不良影响也愈加受到人们关注,刚刚结束的《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德:复兴生活》展将目光聚焦于时尚与环保之间千丝万缕的联系,也再一次提醒我们绿色时尚的迫在眉睫。";s:6:"author";s:28:"《尚流TATLER》三月刊 ";s:7:"content";s:23891:"
Stella McCartney以再生羊绒制作服装
谈到环境污染,我们可能第一时间联想到工业化污染、汽车尾气等,但你是否知道,我们每日所穿的服装对于环境造成的负面影响也不可小觑。时尚行业越来越蓬勃的发展,也加速了资源消耗和环境污染。
一方面,服装从生产到售卖的每一个环节都对环境产生负面影响,在印度,因皮革加工排放废料,导致很多以河水为生的居民中毒;乌兹别克斯坦和哈萨克斯坦因大量种植棉花供应服装业,已令咸海水量减少15%,亚马孙雨林遭到破坏也与服装原料有关。不夸张地说,时装行业对于环境的污染极有可能是世界上数一数二的。另一方面,随着潮流更迭速度的越来越快,和过去相比,服装的寿命大大缩短,每个人每一季购买的服装越多,家里闲置的衣服也越多。英国记者露西· 斯格尔曾出版过一本名为《梦寐以求:时装正在耗尽地球资源?》的书籍,她结合调查资料、统计数据和历史档案,在书中指出了时尚行业对环境触目惊心的危害,例如其中的一些数据显示,根据英国剑桥大学的研究,全球每年生产800 亿件衣服,光英国每年就有200 万件被扔进了垃圾堆;英国平均每位女性每年购买衣物的重量约达28 千克,相当于女性平均体重的一半,很多人衣柜里没穿过的衣服有20 件;当代人购买服装的数量是80 年代的4 倍。
毋庸置疑,推进时装产业的可持续运作和绿色发展正是所有有社会责任的时尚品牌和设计师们最为关切的问题。
Vivienne Westwood在巴顿莫斯气候营地
地球的限度
2009年,斯德哥尔摩回复力研究中心(Stockholm Resilience Centre)的一组科学家提出9项他们认为对地球很重要的指标,以及这些指标的上限,包括气候变迁、生物多样性、氮循环、磷循环、海洋酸化、悬浮微粒污染、化学物污染、臭氧层的消失、淡水使用以及森林砍伐与土地使用变更,这些指标共同组成了名为“地球限度”的地球系统框架核心概念,它定义了“人类所需的安全生存空间”,并被各个组织和国家视为可持续发展的先决条件。开云集团刚刚发布的可持续报告中表明,其为奢侈品制定了符合“地球限度”的全新可持续发展理念,制定了2025年发展目标,并确立在该年限前达到的里程碑。开云集团董事会主席兼首席执行官François-Henri Pinault表示将在可持续发展方面不遗余力:“集团的战略方针展示了我们在未来重新定义业务并持续发展的方式,与此同时,它还能为整个奢侈品行业带来变革,使我们更好地应对这一代人所面临的重要的社会与环境挑战。”
除了在生产、销售的所有环节进行绿色优化和提升, 时尚领域的许多有责任心的品牌同样也助力许多环保组织,以此向社会传达和扩散保护环境的影响力。例如爱马仕一直致力于传递热爱自然、崇敬万物的价值观,并多次积极倡导绿色的环保理念。它于去年首次启动慈善丝巾项目,推出特别版90厘米斜纹真丝方巾—— 桃红色“森林之主”。近日,它将该系列丝巾所得净收入全部捐赠于中国绿色碳汇基金会,致力于推进植树造林、森林经营、减少毁林和其他相关的增汇减排活动。此前,Kenzo也与海洋保护专家——蓝色海洋基金会形成了高度紧密的合作伙伴关系,把对海洋污染、过度捕捞及海洋生物破坏的抵制作为共同使命,为支持蓝色海洋基金会所作出的各种努力,Kenzo推出了一系列带有“No Fish No Nothing”标语的中性卫衣与T恤,将销售所得全部用于基金会保护全球海洋环境的事业。而在蓝色海洋基金会联合创始人兼理事Chris Gorell Barnes看来,时尚也是最有力的传播方式之一,通过这种渠道可以向更广阔的人群传达保护海洋的必要性以及保护鱼类可持续补给的重要性。
Kenzo与蓝色海洋基金会合作款服装
环保行动家
前不久,在Chi K11美术馆举办的全球首个中国当代艺术跨界时尚环保年度大展《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德:复兴生活》(Vivienne Westwood: Get A Life)刚刚于2月底闭幕,Vivienne通过照片、录像及时装等立体手法,全方位呈现了她的生活工作和艺术创作,引领大众解读其从知名时装设计师延伸至社会行动家在对生态环境的关注和环保领域中的不懈努力,同时也呼吁人们关注自己所生存的世界和自己的行为对生存环境所造成的影响,传达“为自己及为我们的下一代获得更好的生活”的信息。作为时尚环保的先锋人物,Vivienne向来反对过度消费,她提醒大家购物要注重质量而非数量,注意物品的耐用性,时刻秉持有“低碳可持续”的环保理念,同时,她也积极参与绿色运动,号召名人参与拯救北极的计划,又与International Trade Centre(国际贸易总行)合作,借生产手袋之机支持边缘化的非洲小区妇女自力更生。现场有众多富于代表性的装置与极具视觉冲击力的场景,令你亲身置于Vivienne身为社会行动家的世界之中。陈列在展厅内的最新Vivienne Westwood时装系列展示了她如何将社会、环保活动直接呈现在时装秀台;移步至她手绘的“生命之树”下感受地球的召唤;放眼于“气温上升5度之地图”前浏览由英国员佐勋章获得者安迪·格慈(Andy Gotts)拍摄的60位参与到“守护北极绿色和平运动” 的名人义士影像;或拿起自己的“武器”来到“气候革命”现场为改善生态环境而战!正如Vivienne曾表示:“这是一场捍卫人类生存、捍卫地球的战争。我们最重要的‘武器’是公众舆论:去艺术画廊吧,去理解这个世界。一旦你开始这样做,你就是一个自由战士。”
这次的展览引起了广泛的关注,不仅是因为其环保时尚的独特理念,同时,此次展览还特别为了向Vivienne Westwood的时尚环保精神致敬,策划了以Duo Therapy为主题的首次跨界系列活动,Duo的含义即将Eco-friendliness (环保)和Fashion(时尚)两个概念有机结合在一起进行创作。以环保材料、环保穿搭、环保理念多维度立体论证,力邀多位资深设计师、时尚权威人士的加盟,并从环保时尚作品展示、主题讲座论坛及设计竞赛3方面引发大众对时尚、艺术与环保的讨论热潮。
时尚的环保责任
除了生产、运输和销售流程,时尚品牌的环保革命还不止于此,它们将环保理念渗透于每一个细小的方面,甚至在店铺或工厂的建筑设计中,也力求保护环境。
Saint Laurent :绿色建筑白金认证
Saint Laurent以全新店铺概念装潢的三家精品店——巴黎圣奥诺雷路街38号、洛杉矶比佛利山罗迪欧大道326号以及伦敦邦德街 32号获得美国 LEED绿色建筑白金认证,是全球首家获得 LEED白金认证的奢侈品牌。三家认证店铺均凭借创新与可持续发展模式降低耗水量、优化能源效率以及提高室内空气质量。罗迪欧大道精品店自2014年重新开业以来,已降低了 57%的能源损耗。
Bottega Veneta :新建筑与较大改造建筑认证铂金奖
Bottega Veneta位于 Montebello Vicentino的新工作室在2009年获得了LEED新建筑与较大改造建筑认证,工作室于2013年9月正式开业,所处大楼占地55,000平方米,是一处受意大利环境遗产局保护的历史建筑。在改造这一原有别墅时,保持现存的建筑结构是最为重要的议题,超过 75% 的原有材料得到重新利用。在建筑材料的利用上也运用了相同的方法:例如离建筑现场最近的地点采购材料,决定仅使用森林管理委员会指定的木料,对废品进行了细致的分类。从设计到实施的各个流程均根据 ISO14001 能源系统控制程序进行,运用景观美化别墅四周的地面时,Bottega Veneta 保留了原有的植被,且仅使用了获得许可的材料和植物。
再造衣银行发布以“重生”为主题的全新系列
再造与重生
在《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德:复兴生活》展览的各个环节,它邀请了众多拥有环保理念的时尚设计师共同参与时尚与环保的议题,其中,“再造衣银行(Reclothing Bank)”的创始人及设计师张娜因其最新系列在国内的首场精彩发布而引人注目。与一般的时装发布会不同,这场以“重生”为主题的发布会,所有制衣面料均来源于人们捐出的旧衣和其他时尚品牌的库存,通过张娜的重新设计和利用,升级并焕发出新的活力,如同得到了“重生”。
张娜看到了时尚快速发展所带来的资源浪费的弊端,面对人们大量弃用的旧衣服,她希望借助再造衣银行这个项目令它们可以循环再生成为新的时尚。在张娜看来,每一种物料的原生形态都值得尊重,她所做的再造不仅需要赋予材料新的价值,也必须给予它们平等的对待,旧衣之“旧”的特性,并不是它的劣势,相反,因其经过岁月的沉淀和所承载的故事内涵而转而成了它的优势,令每一件再造衣都独一无二。从2010年创立这个项目至今,张娜在这个领域以先锋的姿态逐渐摸索出了再造衣银行的DNA,以“众Basic -成衣线”“乐 Ready To Wear -高级成衣”“载 Haute Couture -旧衣高级定制”三条线,诠释出整个设计的脉络,完整地诠释再造衣的概念。并在旧衣回收的基础上,与多个成衣品牌,例如Levi's、Lee等合作,改造它们库存中的牛仔面料,让再造衣银行真正成为一个可以独立的成熟品牌。
张娜
张娜
再造衣银行和Fake Natoo创始人
Tatler :在做再造衣银行的这个项目过程中,你面对的最大的挑战是什么?
张娜:再造衣如果需要做批量化的生产,从设计到生产流程都需要全新的创新,到目前为止,也并没有一个相对比较成功的案例项目可以参考,因此在这过程中会面对很多问题,每一天都会面对很多的挑战。
Tatler :你为何如此专注于环保时装的设计?
张:再造衣银行除了环保时装的概念,也是因为希望将每件旧衣身上的情感和故事得以延续,在如今追寻快速变化的时尚圈,这些服装也许有着自己独特的意义。
Tatler :可以分享一下再造衣银行将来的发展方向吗?张:我希望再造衣银行众、乐、载三条主线可以稳扎稳打地逐步发展,经得起时间的考验。我并不想大家仅仅因为这个品牌的绿色标签而对它给予关注,更希望能让产品本身来说话,让大家真正了解它的独特魅力。
Tatler :除了再造衣银行这个项目,你在生活中是否还会贯彻环保的理念?
张:在生活中,我们每个人都消耗了很多不必要的资源,我认为设计其实是解决问题的,但现在越来越多的设计是激发我们的欲望,我认为拥有的即需要珍惜,因此我在购买每一样产品的时候都会问自己,我自己是不是真的需要它,这和我设计作品的理念也完全一致。
EcoChic Design Award比赛中以旧衣制作的全新服饰
拒绝时尚浪费
在衣服剪裁的过程中,多余的材料往往会被视为累赘与无用之物, 但如今,越来越多的设计师渐意识到如何来珍视每一点一滴的原材料。也有越来越多的设计师对这些“边角料”感兴趣,将它们重新利用并焕发新的生命。例如Christina Dean在2007年创立了“Redress”组织,这个非营利机构的使命是教育公众减少浪费,推广时装的可持续性利用,减少时尚对环境的影响。自2007年以来,Christina 曾举办不少活动推广“不要丢弃”的理念, 譬如创立了“The EcoChic Design Award”和推出如“The Get Redressed Challenge”项目等, 致力于令大家改变穿衣习惯。其中,The EcoChic Design Award是目前针对年轻设计师的全球最大奖项,这个奖项目的旨在启发新晋时装设计师及学生,以最少浪费创造符合大众市场的设计。设计师在这个比赛过程中将学习到可持续时装的设计理论和技巧,如零废弃、重新构造和升级再造等技巧,加以运用至创造可持续时装。经过这样的磨练,设计师们逐渐改变自己的设计理念,减少时尚浪费,并改变时尚格局。来自英国的设计师Kévin Germanier曾获得2014/2015 EcoChic Design Award的奖项,并曾与Shanghai Tang合作升级循环系列,利用品牌提供的废弃面料制成限量系列。
Kévin Germanier
Kévin Germanier 设计师
Tatler :是什么引发了你对于环保设计的热情?
Kévin Germanier : 对我来说可持续性是和时尚相关的。当我还是学生的时候,我就经常循环使用一些材料设计衣服,因为那时候没有太多钱买棉布,我就会用父母的旧床单或是其他一些材料。在设计服装的同时又能保护环境是一件非常奇妙的事。作为一个年轻又富有激情的设计师,有用对我来说很重要。这种环保的方式也能让我时刻保持警惕。我想通过我的作品告诉大家美丽无处不在。
Tatler :在你的设计中,如何运用到环保的元素?
K.G. :我在2014/15 的EcoChic设计比赛的最后环节中, 结合了可回收以及重构的技术,使用剩余军队纺织布料以及服装纺织废料做成服装。这个系列实现了传统与现代手工艺的结合(比如编织、染色和刺绣)。另外,为Shanghai Tang设计的可回收系列产品时,我用了品牌之前剩下的昂贵材料,新的部分只有标签和装饰品。我也设计了非常简洁的款式,这样就不用浪费一些不必要的部分了。当你想要做到环保的时候,设计是非常具有挑战性的,你会遇到很多困难,但最后你一定能做到的。这就是环保时尚的魅力。
Tatler :在你将来的设计中,会坚持环保的理念吗?
K.G. :是的,设计师是设计衣服的,而一个优秀的设计师是用一种环保的方式设计漂亮衣服。
绿色时装
追本溯源,当一件衣服从它的面料开始,就面临了各种环保问题。其中比较突出的是羊绒对环境的影响,制成一件羊绒衫需要花费4只山羊的出毛量,相比之下,1只绵羊的出毛量就能够生产出5件羊毛衫。因此羊绒曾被认为是传统意义上的奢侈品材料,然而如今大量供应的休闲羊绒制品如同普通的经济商品一样被大众消费得起。全球对羊绒需求的增加,导致蒙古山羊数量激增,而山羊是典型的草原杀手,它们贪婪地啃食草皮,将草皮消耗殆尽之余还会刨出草根。它们用尖锐的羊蹄扎入土壤表面,一旦土壤结皮被破坏,强风就会带走表层土壤。根据联合国开发计划署统计, 现在蒙古90%的土地是脆弱的干土,深受沙漠化的威胁。以环保著称的Stella McCartney是一个环保“素食”品牌,在它们的所有产品中从不使用动物皮革、皮草、毛皮或是羽毛。面对羊绒对于环境的影响,Stella McCartney一直在不断寻求新的方法来降低服装生产对于环境的不良影响,停止了在针织产品系列中使用初生羊绒(羊胎绒),而是通过回收意大利纺织工厂在加工过程中产生的废弃材料制成的再生羊绒,这种再生羊绒被称为Re.Verso,相比初生羊绒,Re.Verso对环境的不良影响降低了92%。同样意识到羊绒的环保问题的,还有对于环境问题持续关注的乔琬珊,她毕业于哈佛大学肯尼迪管理学院、宾夕法尼亚大学与沃顿商学院,在哈佛的求学过程中,她曾参与联合国在纽约和泰国的计划开发工作,在泰国完成了资讯和通信技术方案的研究,在纽约完成了企业可持续发展的专案。而她目前的身份,是牦牛绒制品品牌Shokay的创始人,她不是来自藏区,也没学过纺织,却打造出了世界第一家牦牛绒创意品牌,相比山羊,牦牛因为不以草根为食而不会对草原造成负面影响,乔婉珊从西藏黑马河的牧民手中收购来牦牛绒,交给工厂清洗、染色, 制成纱线, 由上海崇明岛的农村妇女组成的编织小组,按照设计师设计的款式,手工制作出成品。如今,Shokay在上海设有专卖店,产品在全世界超过100家商场有售。同时,乔婉珊也将Shokay定义为一家社会企业,通过它,几千户牧民的生活得以改善,并以创新的商业模式保护当地的生态环境,传递“可持续发展才是真正的奢华”的理念。
乔琬珊
乔琬珊
Shokay创始人
Tatler :是什么令你如此关注环保和可持续发展的议题?
乔琬珊:这是一个全球性的议题,和地球上的每一个人息息相关。现在中国已经走向需要均衡发展的时候,而且从空气到水质都影响到每个人的生活,所以可持续发展是必需的。
Tatler :在打造牦牛绒产品的同时,你如何保护当地的牦牛、草原生态以及减少对环境的负面影响?
乔:长期以来,牦牛被当地牧民视作赖以生存的生命线,牧民和牦牛的感情深厚,每年去绒的时候都是在自然脱落以前用手工或是耙子梳理下来,不会伤害到动物。牦牛不以草根为食,因此不会破坏草场植被。目前中国境内共有1,400万头牦牛,每年可产500 吨牛绒,但目前的实际使用率只有五分之一不到,因此尚未达到过度开发影响生态环境的可能。不过未来我们在扩张时,也会多和牧民一起保护草原生态。牦牛绒本身就是天然纤维,可生物降解,比人工合成纤维天然具有环保性能。
Tatler :牦牛绒产品和传统的羊绒制品相比,有什么优势?
乔:针对羊毛、羊绒、牦牛绒三种纤维制品,我们邀请香港理工大学做了一项为期2年的比较研究,证明牦牛绒比羊绒和羊毛都更保暖和透气,而且在同等细度下,牛绒比羊毛更光滑,不刺激皮肤。但是相比羊绒,由于牦牛绒的纤维更短、在工艺上难度相当大,容易断线。从100%纯牦牛绒纱线到面料,我们经历了很多年的努力研究和尝试,直至去年联合日本Mitsuboshi集团成功开发出全球第一款100%牦牛绒面料。这不仅基于我们在原料分级上的进一步细化,取得了更好的纤维原料,也基于Mitsuboshi集团上百年的织造经验。
Tatler :众所周知,纺织行业对于环境最大的影响在于清洗和印染所使用的助剂,Shokay如何避免这方面对于环境的危害?
乔:纺织行业对环境影响是无可避免的,但是我们目前要求所有合作的厂商都必须合乎环保标准和国际规范,以尽量降低对环境的影响力。 以更长远的计划,最重要的是持续与研究机构和合作厂商尝试最新技术在牛绒上的应用,如无水印染技术等。
Tatler :应该如何来定义社会企业?
乔:社会企业不是纯粹的企业,也不是一般的社会服务,社会企业透过商业手法运作,赚取利润用以贡献社会。社会企业重视社会价值,多于追求最大的企业盈利。我做牦牛绒产业链的初衷,就是希望能够改善当地牧民的生活,但是相比公益项目而言,让大家发现牦牛绒的价值能使他们获得更长期的经济增长。同时,我们也主动将部分利润投入当地社区建设。
Tatler :Shokay未来的发展方向是什么?
乔:目前,Shokay旗下拥有服饰、家居及旅行饰品等Shokay绣嘉系列产品、及为全球众多服饰品牌及设计师提供纱线及面料的Shokay绣嘉纺织。目前纺织的业务比重为15%,我们会更多拓展合作伙伴和设计师,计划未来这一块业务会增长到50%。
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韩枫
[客座主编] 韩枫 时装设计师
作为一名来自中国的女性,要在纽约这样一个名师荟萃的世界时装之都创建自己的品牌是一件很困难的事。然而韩枫做到了。她凭着对艺术的感悟,从设计围巾开始慢慢摸索着走进了服装设计这一行。1994年她以一场盛大的服装发布秀被美国当地媒体誉为“第一个成功闯入纽约时装界的中国设计师”,她的同名品牌“Han Feng”也因此成为许多上流社会名媛淑女们出席重要活动时的“Must have” 。虽然有着“国际知名时装设计师”的光环,但韩枫却认为那只是一种表象而已,私底下的她是个非常随性亲和的人,和她利落短发造型的酷酷模样有些不同。而韩枫除了做服装之外,她还设计家居、创作艺术作品,此外,她还是个烹饪家。对她而言,设计只是她生活中的一部分,她其实更看重的是生活本身的乐趣。而这次作为《尚流TATLER》的客座主编,韩枫邀请到了几位她的多年好友们齐聚在她的设计工作室,一起畅谈她们对生活、时尚、设计的热爱。
拍摄采访的这天是一个低温却天气晴朗的周末,地点就约在韩枫位于上海茂名南路的老锦江酒店公寓之中的工作室,这里是她平日工作和生活的地方。白色调的空间搭配上令人感到安心沉稳的原木家具,再点缀上一些不同色彩的工艺品,营造出一种舒适却又别具风格的氛围。其中有几只纯手工由碎布材料制作而成的鸟形装饰品相当引人注目,原来这也是韩枫巧思妙手所设计的,它们也曾经作为装置艺术入选过许多知名的艺术展呢。韩枫说她希望每一个来到她工作室的朋友都能够在这里感受到放松与温馨的感觉,大家可以坐下来喝茶品酒、享受美食、谈天说地并且尽情欣赏她的每一件设计作品。随着韩枫好友们陆续抵达, 整个工作室开始弥漫着欢声笑语, 黄英、Nunzia Carbone和Francesca Tarocco她们早都已经是这里的常客了,4位好友其实在拍摄的前一晚就已经相约一块聚会品酒了,感情之好也从她们亲密的互动之中可见。空档期间韩枫还亲自下厨掌勺做了一道色香味俱全的炒年糕给大家品尝,她的好手艺也博得众人的满堂彩。
Nunzia Carbone 建筑设计
来自意大利的建筑设计师 Nunzia Carbone是 Dedo
Design的合伙创办人,第一次知道韩枫这个名字是在
2004年,她偶然走进了韩枫当时在上海外滩3号的店里,
那时的她就对韩枫设计的东西感到大为惊艳,成为好友之
后也发现两人在设计与审美的观念上有许多相似之处。
Francesca Tarocco
学者
Francesca Tarocco是纽约大学和威尼斯大学的教授,此外她也是当代艺
术的作者和佛学玄学的研究者,和韩枫认识多年,经常相约一起品尝美食
美酒。
黄英
女高音歌唱家
普契尼的歌剧《蝴蝶夫人》的演出让黄英的演唱生涯走向国际。而电影歌剧《蝴蝶
夫人》和汤显祖名著《牡丹亭》的世界巡演也让黄英赢得了极大的声誉,从此,世
界认识了黄英,黄英的歌剧演唱也走向了世界的舞台,并不断举办个人演唱会。
这4位来自不同专业领域的好友,她们对生活与品位也都有各自不同的想法,这次在韩枫邀请带领之下,大家坐下来互相分享对“ 生活、创意与时尚”的见解。
大家对韩枫的第一印象或评价是什么?
黄英:我不会说韩枫是一个时装设计师,因为我觉得韩枫更像是一个非常有创意的艺术家,她是一个拥有特殊才能的人,她很有天赋!
Nunzia Carbone:当我13年前第一次在韩枫的店里看到她设计的东西时,我就已经相当喜欢她的作品。等到我搬至上海并真正和韩枫成为朋友之后,我更加了解她的想法与设计之后,我也就越发欣赏她率性与亲切的个性。
Francesca Tarocco:我在七、八年前因为朋友的关系而认识韩枫,之后就经常会一起相约吃饭聚会等,我觉得韩枫是一个很幽默且爱开玩笑的好朋友。
韩枫:我真的很高兴可以认识这一群好朋友们,她们在不同的专业领域中都十分优秀,我们的价值观也都很相似。对我来说只要成了朋友,那就是一辈子的事了。
如何活出与众不同的生活风格?
韩枫:也许很多人会羡慕我的生活,但我觉得生活都是跟自已的选择有关。我其实对生活的物质要求不高,我更喜欢自由自在开心地过自己的生活,所以我也不擅长制订详细的未来规划。我更想要的是专注于眼前的事情并做到最好,我想我也就是这样活出自己的生活风格吧!
黄英:我觉得要活出与众不同的生活,后天的努力是不容忽视的。另外,就是要对生活对工作一直保有激情,唯有如此才能创造出属于自己的生活风格。
Nunzia Carbone:多去尝试一些新的事物, 也许是去一家没去过的餐厅或酒吧等等,让生活因为有新鲜的人事物而有更多的灵感。
Francesca Tarocco:我的建议是多听多看多学习,然后找到自己感觉最舒适的东西。对我而言美丽也是一种知识。
对时尚生活的各自定义为何?
韩枫:我觉得时尚生活不应该只是盲目跟随时下流行的时髦事物,更应该是找出适合自己的经典对象且可以永久流传的风格。
黄英: 要有自我的个性与原创的精神。
Francesca Tarocco:创意很重要, 我同意韩枫说的,不要跟随他人而是要找出自己的风格。拿穿着打扮来说好了,我觉得穿衣服也是一种表演,我也要求我的每一场演出(每一次的穿着)都很有我的Style。
心目中的时尚人物Icon是谁?
黄英: 时尚经典大师Gabrielle Chanel,她曾说过:“流行稍纵即逝,但风格永存” ,这句话我相当认同。另外我也相当欣赏艺术大师Georgia O'Keeffe,她原创性的构图与明显又大胆的画风让她在男性天下的画坛中脱颖而出。
Nunzia Carbone:我没有特定的一个人物, 因为很多的人事物或元素都让我感到新奇与欣赏。
Francesca Tarocco:我很喜欢中国女作家张爱玲。她写的文字都很有自己的想法,我可以从中感受到她笔下的灵魂和心里的倔强与孤傲,她的作品也留给读者无限的遐想。
生活中一些创意或灵感的启发来源是?
韩枫:我的灵感来自所有的朋友和客户们,我的很多作品都是和他们一起讨论所创造出来的,有时候让别人一起参与和互动反而更可以激发出许多好作品。另外,在旅行中或是食物中我也经常会得到一些启发,例如像我一直都特别喜欢食物摆盘,将这些好吃的食物以一种艺术的方式摆盘呈现,不仅好吃好看,心情也变得好好。
Nunzia Carbone:对我来说可能是图片、食物或是只是单纯的在一个树林中散步都有可能得到一些创意的点子,其实任何看起来有趣的东西都是我的灵感来源。 另外我举一个朋友的例子,他为了寻求灵感的来源而决定沉淀自己并在寺庙中住了一个月。
Francesca Tarocco:创意是混合的, 我认为灵感的来源是无所不在的。
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曾梵志作品,纽约高古轩画廊展出
艺术世界最如雷贯耳的两个名字:曾梵志和拉里· 高古轩( Larry Gagosian )。52 岁的曾梵志被《纽约时报》盛誉为“中国最热门艺术家”,拥有亚洲当代艺术作品最昂贵拍卖价的纪录(2013 年10 月,《最后的晚餐》在香港苏富比拍卖价达2,330 万美元)。为人直率的高古轩则是全球具权威的画商,在美国、欧洲和亚洲共有16 家商业艺廊。
曾梵志
艺术情谊
曾梵志是高古轩唯一代理的当代华人艺术家。高古轩长期合作的当代艺术家包括杰夫· 昆斯( Jeff Koons ) 、村上隆以及安塞尔姆· 基弗( Anselm Kiefer )。传奇艺术家弗朗西斯· 培根( Francis Bacon )、克劳德· 莫奈( Claude Monet )、杰克逊· 波洛克( Jackson Pollock )、赛· 托姆布雷( Cy Twombly )和安迪· 沃霍尔( Andy Warhol )也曾在高古轩展出作品。2011 年,高古轩在香港开设艺廊,首批展览中便包括曾梵志个展。自此,两人便建立了深厚友谊。这位著名的高产艺术家被称为“再造大师”,这也正是高古轩在作品中不懈追求的特质。
Larry Gagosian
大师传奇
曾梵志的父母是武汉印刷厂的工人。他16 岁便辍学,跟父母一同工作。绘画成为他日常辛苦劳作的调剂。几年后,他便申请进入艺术学院学习。他5次高考失利,但最终于1987 年,被湖北美术学院录取。在这里,他培养了对德国表现主义独一无二的欣赏能力。在广告公司短暂停留之后,曾梵志于1993 年迁往北京,全心全意投入艺术创作。从具象现实主义到抽象风景画,30 年的艺术生涯经历了丰富多样的艺术形式。他最著名的《面具》系列,表达了他迁居北京后的疏离感,以及见证中国刚刚走向富强和快速发展的不安。北京尤伦斯当代艺术中心近日还举办了曾梵志作品大型回顾展。
曾梵志还在念书时,高古轩已经从加州大学洛杉矶分校毕业,在洛杉矶担任停车场经理。他注意到一个在停车场卖海报的男人。以高古轩敏锐的商业眼光,他突然意识到,如果把海报放在相框里卖售价会更高。他很快就开设了自己的海报店,之后又开始展出一些摄影师的作品,逐渐建立了收藏家和颇具影响力的社交网络。不久之后,他便进入了艺术世界,就此开始搭建属于自己的艺术帝国。亚洲对于高古轩而言,仍旧是至关重要的市场。今年,他将继续扩张其香港艺廊,再占毕打行的一层空间。他还计划代理其他亚洲当代艺术家。
拉里· 高古轩和曾梵志
艺术对话
拉里· 高古轩、曾梵志和收藏家William Zhao三人一起就亚洲艺术生态及发展展开对谈。
William Zhao :拉里,为什么当时会选择曾梵志成为艺廊的首位亚洲当代艺术家?
拉里· 高古轩:我的朋友、我尊敬的收藏家还有博物馆都在收藏梵志的作品。而且因为是在亚洲开设艺廊,我觉得代理一位重量级的华人艺术家至关重要。我主要是通过介绍册和线上复制品了解他的作品,但已经为他的创作能力而折服。他是位非常有才华的艺术家,而且我觉得那是一种非常亲切的才华。他还有一些作品更植根于亚洲文化,或许假以时日,我能够对那些作品有更深刻的理解。但是如果从我自身的文化背景来看,他的技巧和风格让我极度惊艳。另外,他很明显已经开创了很好的市场,他的作品的拍卖价格也很有竞争力。我的好朋友弗朗索瓦· 皮诺( François Pinault )(经验丰富的艺术收藏家、零售业巨头开云集团大股东)也持续多年大力支持曾梵志的艺术创作,我尊重他的判断。对艺廊而言,选择曾梵志毫无疑问是一个非常明智的选择。
William Zhao :梵志呢,你为什么选择与高古轩画廊合作?
曾梵志: 高古轩是一个很好的展示品牌。对我而言,他们的空间很适合我的大幅作品。每次展览,我都会亲自设计。我也总是按比例复制空间,来看墙面和我作品的尺寸比例。很多元素都是精心挑选、量身定制。高古轩总是能够符合我的高标准和众多要求。高古轩给我一个很好的平台,作为一名艺术家去试验、成长和发展。每次办展,我都会研究和探索参观者的教育情况、生活背景和精神世界,观察他们的反应。我认为,对于展览而言,这种双向的交流符合情理。我不能完全不关心外部世界,只闭门作画。艺术家通常都自我感很强,有个人理想。但做展览的时候,你还是想要跟大家建立起有趣的交流。
William Zhao :如何界定你和拉里· 高古轩之间的关系?
曾梵志:我们非常尊重彼此。通过与拉里的合作,我见到了很多不一样、也很有意思的人。作为艺廊的经营者,他有很好的态度,为人非常真诚。我们已经成为非常好的长期合作伙伴。基本上,他给了我很多自由和空间,他的团队也很专业。每次创作和设计展览时,他总是很信任我,而且会给我大力的支持。
William Zhao :拉里,你与曾梵志合作的时候,他已经在中国有很多支持者了。毫无疑问,这有助于你的业务在中国的发展。与此同时,艺廊也为曾梵志带来了很多国际收藏家。这看起来是一个双赢的合作。
拉里· 高古轩:从某种程度上而言,代理曾梵志是我们向中国艺术收藏界示好,可以说是一个政治性的宣言吧。但如果我不喜欢他的作品,或者不觉得他的作品出众,我也绝对不会接受。我们的合作也同样有利于梵志。因为有我们这样顶级的国际画廊代理他的作品,会给亚洲收藏家更强的信心收藏他的作品。
William Zhao :2011 年起,你就已经在香港、伦敦展出曾梵志的作品。去年,还在纽约办展。你觉得自己如何能够帮助他在国际平台上发展并使他的作品成为博物馆的藏品?
拉里· 高古轩:我们正在美国尝试运作博物馆的可能性,但在成型之前,我还不想说太多。我们已经成功将作品销给欧洲和美国等西方收藏家,但是这位艺术家在亚洲的市场才刚刚起步。随着时间的推移,我相信他的市场必将不断扩展。对他而言,美国收藏家和博物馆更强势的参与非常重要,但这需要时间,而且不能强求。我认为这只是一个曝光量的问题。假以时日,他肯定能获得更广泛的观众,因为他真的是非常杰出的艺术人才。
William Zhao :你觉得梵志的作品,西方观众容易理解吗?
拉里· 高古轩:我认为这是这位艺术家的优势所在。即便西方观众无法完全理解他作品中反映的文化,画作纯粹的魅力和精湛技艺也仍然非常迷人且震撼人心。
William Zhao :10 年前,香港并不是像如今这样的“艺术之都”,但你还是决定在这里开设画廊。你是如何预见到亚洲的艺术市场会有如此大的潜力的?
拉里· 高古轩:这跟亚洲创造的巨大财富紧密相关,这样的发展让人叹为观止。全新的亿万富翁和全新博物馆几乎是垂直发展的。促成这个决策有很多因素,但其实跟所有其他市场变强的理由也都相同——强势收藏基础,同时亚洲收藏家之间又有一定的竞争。他们去到某人的家里,看到毕加索,之后就想要买毕加索。这是很正常的。所以,我认为主要原因是更多的曝光,同时还要有经济能力去追逐这种曝光。
William Zhao :中国艺术市场还处于新兴阶段,收藏家还需要教育。作为领先全球的国际性画廊,你是否觉得自己应当担负起在中国进行艺术教育的角色,以此确保健康和可持续发展的艺术生态系统。
拉里· 高古轩:其实我不这么认为。做展览本身就是一种教育形式。我们不会选择做论坛或小组讨论,或许未来可以考虑,但我的角色并不是这个教育者。我们展示艺术,然后尝试卖掉它们。因为我们在全球的声誉,收藏家们对我们有信心。我们并不是一个刚刚开张6 个月的小画廊。我们良好的声誉让人们对收藏我们代理的艺术家感到放心。他们会觉得,不管买了什么作品,都将会成为艺术历史的一部分。
William Zhao :梵志,北京尤伦斯当代艺术中心最近刚刚举办了你的回顾展。你觉得自己是否已经实现了最初决定从事艺术工作时想要达成的目标?
曾梵志:还没有。作为一名艺术家,我不能只依赖展览和艺廊来实现我的目标。为了让更多的人认可我的作品,我需要缓步前行,我需要时间。那次回顾展就是大约30 年以来的旅程。
William Zhao :高古轩计划引入更多华人或亚洲艺术家进入画廊吗?
拉里· 高古轩:是的,有这个可能,因为我觉得这对我们在亚洲的业务发展有好处。在亚洲艺术家方面展示更加广泛的足迹,这点对我们而言至关重要。但我并没有只是要完成配额的感觉。我在巴黎有两家画廊,但只有一位法国艺术家。所以还是取决于艺术家。如果有我真的觉得很强的作品,有我真的信任的华人艺术家,我们肯定会去了解。我认为,这样既能增强我们的实力,也可以给我们代理的华人艺术家更强的声誉基础。
William Zhao :很多华人收藏家从收藏中国当代艺术起步,现在却开始收藏更多的欧洲和美国艺术。为什么有这样的变化?
拉里· 高古轩:以我的经验来说,收藏家在刚刚起步的时候,通常都会从收藏当本地艺术开始,但是最终他们会从本土文化中脱离,看得更远。欧洲和美国拥有伟大的艺术历史。所以,对于在艺术上投资很大的人而言,历史能给予他们信心。人们信任名声。安迪· 沃霍尔就是一个品牌,像莫奈和毕加索一样。
William Zhao:你会担心华人艺术市场是一个泡沫,就像80 年代日本艺术泡沫一样吗?当时西方艺术在日本可是卖出了破纪录的价格。
拉里· 高古轩:在我看来,亚洲市场非常健康。我不会去想危险,如果太过小心谨慎,就会丧失市场的势头。现在,市场势头强劲,我正趁势而上。现在的市场势头是真的挺好,我不觉得是个高度投机的市场。我们见到越来越多的收藏家,北京也在建非常优质的博物馆,香港内外也是有多家博物馆在建。所以我觉得整体不错。
William Zhao :目前有没有看中的青年或新锐艺术家?
拉里· 高古轩:我认为现在对青年艺术家而言是最好的时候。艺术圈的发展可以说是一个循环,我们正在巩固的阶段。新锐艺术家可能六七年前更为热门。现在,人们正在明确哪些艺术家拥有真正的价值,哪些只是昙花一现。从入行以来,我就一直看着这样的循环往复。有些时期,到处都是新画廊和新艺术家,直到新艺术家的数量太多了,已经到了一个临界点。人们这个时候就会说,“嘿,等等,不可能每个月都出一个天才吧。”人们不会一直对“当月热门”有反应的。他们会说,“我要看看谁能走到下一步”。我认为,这就是我们现在所处的阶段了。
William Zhao :现在,你已经拥有了16 家艺廊。还有计划继续在亚洲开设新艺廊吗?
拉里· 高古轩:我爱上海。我爱东京。我们确实非常激进,但同时也很谨慎,在画廊扩张时需要做大量调研。我还记得当年,很多画廊都想去巴西开馆,因为大家都在首届“ArtRio 艺术里约国际博览会”上获得了惊人的销售业绩。突然之间,巴西经济急速下滑,股市骤跌。崩盘会影响所有领域,不论是艺术,还是,譬如说,卡地亚的腕表等等。我总是努力了解世界经济。我不是天才,但会时刻关注以做出明智的决策。
高古轩将参与于香港举办的亚洲巴塞尔艺术展,展览将于3 月23-25 日在香港会议展览中心举办。高古轩将参展“艺廊荟萃”板块。该板块将展出来自全球187 间著名艺廊代理的20 及21 世纪现当代艺术作品,涵盖画作、雕塑、绘画、装置、摄影作品、电影、录像及数码艺术等作品。更多信息,请访问 artbasel.com
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沛纳海全球首席执行官Angelo Bonati专程从意大利飞抵北京宣布该全新合作,与现场的贵宾们率先预览霍建华在佛罗伦萨的旅程,一齐探索城中与品牌历史有莫大渊源的著名地标。
霍建华作为沛纳海多年的忠实收藏家与鉴赏家,完美演绎沛纳海品牌所体现的生活方式之价值所在。他们的此次合作也将引领更多大众进入精彩纷呈、纯正丰富的腕表世界。
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裴蓓 漆皮风衣、刺绣连身裙
王朱筱寅 拼色夹克、条纹衬衣、藏蓝色西裤 均为 Fendi
曾以Dior 2007 年巴黎时装周头秀蜚声国际,在极短的时间内迅速成为中国上位最快的超模,随后又成为多个国际著名品牌的代言人,并在演艺圈渐崭露头角,参与了多部影视作品的拍摄,裴蓓的成功之路看上去走得无比顺畅。在镜头里,她表现出的是一贯的酷感与潇洒,但私底下,却充满了亲和力,和王朱筱寅的甜蜜互动也表现出她小鸟依人的一面。很早就成名的裴蓓和王朱筱寅都是国际T台上万众瞩目的焦点,两人却在高峰时期选择放弃了国际舞台而回国发展,为了这个选择,他们曾遭遇过不少质疑,但生性洒脱的两人并不在意外界的眼光,而是用着最适合自己节奏的步伐,踏实稳健地走出属于自己的成功之路。
裴蓓 印花卡其色风衣、Strap You肩带作腰带用、印花半身裙 均为 Fendi
高跟鞋 Prada
王朱筱寅 浅灰色风衣、运动套装 均为 Prada
白色运动鞋 Fendi
甘苦与共的超模生涯
一谈到裴蓓,不免会联想到2007年在巴黎Dior春夏高级定制服秀场上,她被设计师John Galliano指定为开场模特儿,谢幕时更牵着她的手向众人宣布“她是我今年最喜爱的模特”。也是从那时开始,大家疯狂地想知道那个让时尚界鬼才大师如此推崇的女孩究竟是谁?而裴蓓也在那天之后获得国际关注而声名大噪。如今,10年过去,裴蓓回想起那时的场景依旧觉得有点不可思议,她说那时的自己还很青涩懵懂,能获此殊荣,她害羞而小声地直呼自己真的很幸运。10年的时光足以让一个人发生极大的改变,裴蓓从20出头的女孩跨入一个成熟的全新阶段,裴蓓的事业和生活都发生了很多难忘的故事,但内心并没有变化:“论改变其实自己真的改变不大,但确实在这10年间收获了许多。除了接到了不少自己喜爱品牌的秀之外,也认识了很多志同道合的朋友,这也是我这10年来最珍惜的部分。”作为一个超模,留给大家的印象通常是T台上的绚烂时刻,裴蓓和王朱筱寅向公众展现的也都是充满阳光和快乐的正能量,但这些美丽的表象背后所付出的辛酸与挑战却鲜少会向人提及。裴蓓说她常在寒冷的冬天拍摄春夏的服装,暖宝宝贴满全身还要摆出春夏轻盈的活力,又或是在酷暑的夏天得穿上厚重的皮草,这样辛苦的常态工作也只能咬着牙努力完成。王朱筱寅也经历过类似的辛苦,曾经有一次他在海拔4,000多米的雪山拍摄,雪没到了膝盖,却仍然要拍摄动态的影片,因为高山缺氧的关系,拍摄一阵子他就得跑去吸个氧气,然后回来再继续,如此重复来回多次才能捕捉到最好的镜头。面对这些挑战,王朱筱寅认为越是艰难越是能收获美好的作品:“一张定格的美丽画面往往是经过了无数次的调整与拍摄才能产生,而模特更是其中的灵魂,我们所要做的就是将这样的极致带给观众欣赏。”
条纹打底衫、粉色连身裙均为 Fendi
自然而发的时尚感
身为超模,裴蓓和王朱筱寅都曾去过许多时尚之都,例如巴黎、伦敦、米兰、纽约等等,裴蓓喜爱巴黎古典又充满浪漫的气息,但自己最喜欢的城市却是纽约,“因为我觉得纽约和上海很像,所有最现代化的新鲜事物都可以在纽约发掘”。而王朱筱寅则最欣赏伦敦,因为浓厚的英伦绅士风范让他特别着迷。
身处时尚圈,两人对时尚与美丽的态度不约而同地相似,也许是看多了过度的设计与繁复的装饰,裴蓓和王朱筱寅都认为一个人最美丽的状态就是自然,并且要保持一个平淡之心,不从众与盲目追求时下的流行。裴蓓坦言,自己刚出道的时候往往只要求外表漂亮,但现在则越发注重内在的涵养,为此,她在闲暇时候都会选择阅读各种书籍,最近在读的书是卡勒德· 胡赛尼所著的《追风筝的人》和白岩松的自传《白说》,汲取书中人物的故事与经验,在她看来也是提升自己的一种方式。
时尚圈的前辈是他们成功路上的指引者,裴蓓将Kate Moss视为自己心目中的时尚Icon,“ Kate Moss百变却又永远保持经典的形象,我希望自己也能成为像她那样引领风格的传奇人物 ”。王朱筱寅则十分欣赏Brad Pitt,因为他出席各种场合都穿搭有型。
很多人都好奇超模的保养方式,两人给出的答案却让人大跌眼镜,裴蓓说“: 平时真的没有特别保养或健身的方式,我们俩又特别爱吃美食,真的是有什么吃什么的那种,但我们始终维持着饭后一定要散步的习惯,我想这也是帮助我们维持身材的一个主要关键吧。”
印花连身长裙墨绿色西装套装、条纹衬衣 均为 Fendi
随遇而安的从容
裴蓓和王朱筱寅从2005年相识相恋到2012年结婚,感情从浓烈的爱情升华为互相依赖的默契,私底下,生活中的他们其实和一般平凡人无异,平时喜欢宅在家里玩玩游戏、看书、听音乐,他们笑称似乎在过老年人的生活。
当我让他们各自用一句话来形容自己和对方,他们的第一反应是相视大笑,然后立刻给出形容对方的答案,但要形容自己时反而思考了许久。裴蓓笑着形容“: 王朱筱寅就是个话唠!”并用“表面冷酷,内心热情”来形容自己。王朱筱寅对裴蓓的描述是“ 心地善良的一个女孩”,说到自己时,承认自己有时话真的挺多的,但特别顾家。如今,两人已经结婚5年,在各种采访中也经常被问到什么时候会想要生孩子,两人面对这个问题也十分坦白地表示正在努力中,也许在不久的将来我们就可以看到他们爱情的结晶了。
对于当初决定离开国际舞台而错失了一些发展机会,两人并没有丝毫的犹豫和后悔,裴蓓说:“当然也曾想过如果当初留在国外发展,也许现在的我们就有机会发展得更好,但那个选择却让我们的生活有了不同的故事,我们对现在的自己感到很知足,即使平淡也是最好的时光。” 对于未来,除了持续在国内的时尚界发光发热,他们也有一些其他的小梦想,例如想开一家充满特色风味的上海餐厅,虽然目前还只是一个初步的想法,但也许有一天我们就会看到他们的新餐厅成为上海最火的热点之一。
裴蓓正在阅读的书《追风筝的人》中有一句说道“: 我们是否知道我们心中的风筝到底在什么地方,人生错过就不会再得到,也许我们会忏悔,会救赎,但这些似乎都已经晚了,每当天空放飞起风筝的那一刻,我们是不是应该问问自己我们是否真的珍惜我们所拥有的一切。”裴蓓和王朱筱寅这对超模伉俪似乎正在用行动来诠释这句话的意义,面对成功不骄傲,面对挑战不畏惧,淡然与忠于自我的态度正是两人幸福的最佳解读。
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精选";s:7:"loption";s:13:"/tatler-picks";}i:3;a:2:{s:5:"title";s:6:"Brands";s:7:"loption";s:7:"/brands";}}s:10:"body_class";s:2:"t7";s:10:"active_key";s:5:"style";s:15:"latest_articles";a:15:{i:0;a:10:{s:5:"Story";a:40:{s:2:"id";s:4:"4591";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-05-02 14:25:44";s:8:"modified";s:19:"2017-05-02 15:18:24";s:6:"status";s:1:"1";s:10:"publish_at";s:19:"2017-05-02 00:00:00";s:12:"unpublish_at";N;s:4:"type";s:5:"style";s:11:"luxury_news";N;s:11:"advertorial";N;s:12:"people_story";N;s:8:"top_list";s:1:"0";s:5:"title";s:51:"婚礼穿什么?写给男士的婚礼穿著指南";s:4:"deck";s:0:"";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:4770:"无论是新郎,伴郎还是婚礼嘉宾,在这个重特殊的日子里,得体的着装才能令你保持最佳状态。随着婚礼季的到来,男士该如何挑选婚礼服装?你需要以下建议。
晨礼服
晨礼服仍然是英国婚礼上被广泛接受的着装要求。这套正装由细长的人字羊毛制成的经典黑色燕尾服,搭配条纹或犬牙纹长裤、以及对比色调的单排或双排扣马甲组成。 通常保留给皇家的三件套灰色晨礼服也可以成为新郎的替代选择。

Ede&Ravenscroft
一件传统的带有可拆卸衣领的的衬衫搭配丝绸领带。裤子应该稍稍高于腰部,裤脚在鞋子的顶部,裤子前方有一条轻微的裤线,裤子的后面在鞋跟的上方。灰色或黑色的礼帽并非必需,但应始终在婚礼上携带。
黑领结(Black Tie)
黑领结在婚礼上变得越来越普遍,并会在请柬中注明。传统的黑领结由黑色高腰翻领的羊毛晚装外套,晚装长裤以及配有黑色领结的白衬衫构成。

Ede&Ravenscroft
婚礼西装
通常,对于更现代的或城市婚礼而言,西装是晨礼服的替代品,有各种颜色和面料的选择。外套的款式是个人喜好,单排双扣或三扣外套是最受欢迎的选项。新郎可能希望在造型中有更多的乐趣,也许会通过不同的翻领形状或口袋细节来进行个性化选择。

彩色,深蓝色,中灰色和木炭色是最安全和最通用的颜色,但不要害怕根据您的个人品味,风格和婚礼主题来玩色调。布料的类型也是一个重要的考虑因素,较浅色调的棉和亚麻布,为目的地婚礼或夏季婚礼提供了更多的选择。
Ede&Ravenscroft
配件饰品
晨礼服的衬衫应该有一个厚重的衣领,如果衬衫衣领比较简单,则可以搭配婚礼西装。平扣或法式扣是个人的选择,但衬衫袖口应该不超过西装或礼服的袖口半英寸。
婚礼马甲也有穿着规范,如果穿双排扣马甲,则底部按钮应保持松开。他们应该舒适地位于腰带之上,完全遮盖衬衫。许多新郎喜欢穿着不同颜色的马甲,以脱颖而出,参加婚礼派对的其他环节。
当涉及到正装鞋类时,请保持简洁而优雅,搭配经典的牛津鞋,就像Sweeney系带鞋,或者是适合于黑领结或白领结的Overton专利鞋。
优雅的饰品配件是个性化您的婚礼外观的轻松方式。从豪华的丝绸领带,到经典的口袋巾,以及独特的袖扣,都能为你的婚礼装扮增色不少。
《尚流TATLER》的小建议:
- 与新娘一起检查配色方案!
- 不要比婚礼派对更正式。如有疑问,请在邀请函上查看着装要求。
- 不要解开双排扣晚礼服。
- 晨礼服下摆应该到膝关节。
- 不要在最后一刻才定做西装
如果想寻求独一无二的精美套装,你可以尝试Ede&Ravenscroft的量身定做或个人定制服务:
Ede&Ravenscroft是伦敦最古老的服装店,并在1689年获得了第一个皇家委认状,当时被委托制作威廉和玛丽加冕的长袍。 Ede&Ravenscroft致力于提供建立了其声誉的传统价值观,持有三个皇家授权,并为世界各地的男士和女士制作优质的服装。
量身定做:Ede&Ravenscroft 的裁缝将为你量体裁衣,手工制作精美独特的服装,完美贴合您的个人风格。
个人定制:在技术顾问的指导下,你以选择广泛的布料,饰面和款式,为自己定制与众不同的西装。
详询:www.edeandravenscroft.com
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Ball史上最难主题!";s:4:"deck";s:56:"90后投资人余晚晚受邀出席并享受最高礼遇";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:3921:"素有“时尚奥斯卡”之称的Met Ball(又称Met Gala)于美国时间5月1日晚在纽约大都会举行。作为每年5月初最受期待的时尚盛世,Met Ball永远能吸引到各界名流、明星、时尚人士、超模出席。

Met Ball是纽约大都市艺术博物馆时装馆每年都会举办的慈善晚宴。除了到场嘉宾以外,每年Met Ball最受关注的莫过于它独特的着装主题。主办方会提前公布着装主题,明星名流则会根据这个主题选择相应的着装。
2015年的Met Ball主题是“镜花水月”。这一颇具中国风的主题舞会,也邀请到了有史以来最多的中国明星。
今年,Anna Wintour又增加了主题难度,今年的主题是:Rei Kawakubo 川久保玲。这位今年已经75岁的设计大师,影响了时尚界将近40多年!
她以激进的“反时尚态度”著称。她的设计也如同她的时装态度一样,是让人敬仰却看不懂的存在。
果然,在这一有史以来最难的主题影响下,今年的红毯可谓精彩纷呈。

水果姐Katy Perry一看就是有在认真答题

巴西国宝级超模吉赛尔·邦辰,一身银色露背晚礼服,窈窕曲线尽显
到场的中国明星,杨幂和刘雯,也是表现不俗


除了到场的中国明星以外,还有一位独特的中国女孩,她就是余晚晚Wendy Yu。

与大多明星由品牌邀请不同,余晚晚本次以时尚科技投资人、Met 博物馆的赞助人以及青年慈善家的身份,由美版Vogue主编以及Met Gala主席Anna Wintour亲自邀请出席舞会。
作为Anna Wintour亲邀的嘉宾,她还享受了Met Ball的最高礼遇——由Anna Wintour的团队以及美版Vogue高层亲自为她挑选礼服,安排在Vogue US的总部试衣,试衣过程中美版Vogue Fashion Director Tonne Goodman以及市场部总监Virginia Smith 全程陪同,获得了以往任何中国明星都没有受到过的重视和礼遇。当晚,Anna还安排了德国公主Elisabeth Von Thurn Und Taxis 陪伴余晚晚出席Met Gala。



作为国内(包括港澳台地区)目前为止第一位也是唯一一位受Anna Wintour本人邀请参加Met Ball的90后女孩,余晚晚一身露肩鱼尾裙,大气中带着些许甜美。礼服来自美国新锐设计师Zac Posen,珠宝出自著名高级珠宝设计师Anna Hu胡茵菲之手。

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Weekend)于4月14日精彩亮相上海展览中心,为期三天的首创“浸入式”时尚狂欢活动终于揭开神秘面纱。本次活动顺应大众消费结构升级的趋势,以青年一代的全新“体验”为理念,力邀时尚、音乐、艺术大咖助阵,革新地将时装秀场、买手圣地、交互文化艺术展等创意结合,在拉近时尚和年轻消费者距离的同时,打造整合产品、内容和服务为一体的生活方式大IP,邀请全民齐“浸 Fashion”,连续三天每天9小时即看即买即秀玩转时尚。黄晓明,姚晨,张亮,奚梦瑶,苏芒,冯楚轩等明星以及业内大咖都纷纷为活动点赞。

由左⾄右领导及嘉宾:上海市商务委员会市场体系建设处处⻓周岚、奚梦瑶、Lyn Slater、上海市静安区副区⻓周海鹰、上海时装周组委会副主任/上海市商务委员会副主任刘敏、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、上海市静安区商务委员会主任任少南
国内外明星大咖助阵,陪你一起“浸 Fashion”
时尚周末携手各界明星和大咖,为沪上热爱时尚的年轻群体,奉献一场世界顶级水平的先锋的“浸入式”展览和时尚狂欢,各界明星大咖更是以全新形式,和大众互动:
64岁的银发博主Lyn Slater将在Fashion Lab这一全方位交流平台中,提出了自己的主张——时尚即为你的生活态度,永远没有为时过晚一说。她通过分享自己的故事,用国际的视角阐述“时尚为⼈民服务”这一理念;魔都潮⼈李怡霖也将向观众述说其“亚文化”纹身的故事;网红“鼻祖”陈星如更将在此畅谈其网红进化史;著名歌手袁娅维不仅带来现场表演,更聊起音乐背后的故事。国际超模奚梦瑶,也亲身体验“浸入式”跨界合作,于时尚周末首发其携手携程的跨界设计作品,并亲临现场和到场观众亲密互动。

由左⾄右嘉宾:永柏盛业影视基⾦管理合伙人马骏、奚梦瑶、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、中润基⾦总裁齐英

银发时尚博主Lyn Slater
国内外知名时尚品牌和新秀设计师加盟,即秀即买过足“买手”瘾
国际著名时装设计师MASHA MA带来最新MASHAMA X LOFi 17秋冬系列,让普通大众也能感受国际时装周头排看秀的体验,融入了CyberPunk科技感廓形和材质的设计作品,也呈现出千禧一代推崇个性和冒险的精神态度,也使时尚大秀真真正正地“为⼈民服务”。


作为中国第一家专业的Showroom,时堂携手时尚周末,不仅带领设计师和品牌试水直面消费者市场,还让大众过把“时尚买手”瘾。鹦鹉螺市集和意大利买手制百货COSCIA带来的一线大牌惊喜低价,切实直观地让时尚为人民服务这一理念的落地开花。
时尚是艺术的一部分,而艺术则是生活的一种形式。上海时尚周末通过一系列活动,激发普通人对于时尚的思考、对美好生活的向往和对未来的期待,这种自上而下的思考和参与,正是“时尚为⼈民服务”的内涵所在。

浸入式的文化艺术盛宴,将“生活艺术化”落地开花
为了呈现一场全方位的时尚感官盛宴,各界艺术家也纷纷“各显神通”,令广大看客不虚此⾏:作为两度斩获格莱美奖的音乐家,Dana Leong与国际知名品牌、艺⼈广泛开展合作,此次也积极加入到时尚周末,更是要和沪上的年轻大众“合作”——通过百⼈冥想的Work-Shop,传达他对时尚周末“浸入式”观点的认同:任何文化艺术形式,只有大众的亲身参与,才能拥有更大的能量和意义。
艺术家宋洋携其艺术作品形象“Bad Girl”也倾力加入上海时尚周末,展现新自由主义的生活态度,和自我且主见的女性先锋认知。
除此之外,各类“浸入式”惊喜9小时不间断,大大提高了活动的趣味性和参与度:DJ音乐狂欢、近距离接触芝麻街卡通巨型⼈偶、交换神秘面具、免费领养多肉植物,更有拳击互动体验、助力公益事业。



时尚周末将时尚元素从其固有环境中剥离,从参观者体验的角度出发,一方面还原时装设计的人文和社会属性,另一方面赋予参观者体会和掌握时尚脉动的力量,挑战每个人的时尚理念乃至时尚消费方式。
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杂志里的次数并不亚于明星…… 著名艺术家李晓玲由内而外地散发着名流气息,曾经的荣誉和成就在她身上凝聚成一种沉淀过后的淡然之美。常年在世界各地到处行走,让她更加珍惜在每一个地方的时光。";s:6:"author";s:27:"《尚流TATLER》四月刊";s:7:"content";s:10604:"在李晓玲最近的一条朋友圈中,她写道:“如果你只是等待,发生的事情只会是你变老了。”从最早以“京城四大名媛”之一的身份出现在大众的视野中,至今多年的时光中,她一直都没有停下自己探索世界和发现自我的脚步。作为一名女性艺术家,李晓玲将自己的触角延伸到世界,在生活感悟中汲取艺术灵感。她行走各地,在思想意识上彻底敞开自己,与不同的人和建筑对话,将每次的感悟凝练在自己的绘画中。
艺术让人自由并富有力量
多年前,李晓玲旅居法国,她乐此不疲地参观各大美术馆和画廊的展览,发现西方的油画作品和东方的水墨画之间迥异的差别。她所坚持的水墨画意境看似很简洁,却是中华5000年历史文化的沉淀。李晓玲开始将东方的哲学思想结合西方的绘画材料进行创作,这条国际化的艺术之路,让更多的西方人了解到东方文化艺术的智慧,李晓玲的创新艺术风格从而也被称为“新古典主义”。而这种传统文化与现代技法的相融,在她看来只是艺术的一种技法和表现形式,艺术家最重要的还是要多去观察和感受,然后真实地表达自我思想和意识,包括对人、对环境、对社会及对未来的思考。
多年艺术创作的坚持和沉淀,使得李晓玲获得过诸多奖项,其中不乏“意大利但丁荣誉勋章”、入选《世界华人艺术家成就大典》等殊荣。在这众多的成就中,李晓玲更看重的是这些称号背后的公平和专业性,行业大奖的鼓励和认可更坚定了她自己的艺术使命,使她成为一个不断完善自我的女性。艺术带给了李晓玲无限的力量,就像她一直强调的独立女性理想:“做一个独立的女人首先要思想独立,有主见、有自己的人生观、价值观;有上进心,永远不放弃自己的理想;做一份自己喜爱的事业,拥有快乐和成就感。自由建立在一定的经济基础之上,实现经济上的独立,从而掌控自己的命运和未来,不依赖男人、自强自立的女人才更自信,更有人格魅力!”
马背上的艺术与生活
在李晓玲的艺术作品中, 马是她尤为喜爱的一个创作元素。她经常骑马,观察马的眼睛和身形,用自己的方式和独有的艺术语言来描绘心中的马。在她看来,马不仅外形健美,其坚毅的精神更让人动容,马天生就是为奔跑而生的。这种对马的无限热衷和种种渊源,还使得她获得了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的“驭马锋尚大使”'
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Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展探索了一个世纪以来,古驰的恒久精神与标识何以衍生出最为经典的设计,也探究了这些定义时代的经典如何为品牌的创意愿景带来取之不尽的灵感,并在不同时代赋予全新演绎。本次展览,展现了古驰对创造力矢志不渝的坚持,这种根植于意大利最精湛工艺及传统的传承推动了当代生活与时尚美学,反映并定义了时代精神。
Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展由著名英国当代艺术家艾斯·戴夫林(Es Devlin)进行展陈构思及设计,并由杰出的意大利时尚理论家兼评论家玛丽亚·路易莎·富丽萨(Maria Luisa Frisa)策展。从回望过去、反映当代、到展望未来,这一玩味十足的典藏之旅,共以八个展览“空间”构成,收录了许多未曾公开的珍贵藏品——这些藏品均来自古驰典藏之家(Gucci Archive),其前身为建于 15 世纪的佛罗伦萨塞蒂曼尼宫(Palazzo Settimanni),它既是栩栩如生的品牌典藏档案馆,又是品牌创意团队的工作中枢。每个“空间”都展现了古驰的不同面向。从创始人古奇欧·古驰(Guccio Gucci)最初萌发的远志,到其子奥尔多·古驰(Aldo Gucci)与鲁道夫·古驰(Rodolfo Gucci)的先锋精神,再到近年来的创作总监汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)、弗里达·贾娜妮(Frida Giannini)和亚力山卓·米开理(Alessandro Michele)天马行空的想象力,呈现从1921年古驰创立以来,从未动摇的准则与不断推陈出新的灵感创意。
艾斯·戴夫林:“古驰致力于创造性的尝试和对时代的表达,通过不断地推进与演变,映射出品牌及其过去百年间的历史。广义上,这彰显了古驰延展自我意识与更新认知转变的能力。如同服装本身能够被改变和重新剪裁,蜕变后的皮肤亦将持续新生。”

玛丽亚·路易莎·富丽萨:“这个项目对我来说非同寻常,我可以再次穿越古驰的宇宙,通过不断变化的服装、物品、元素、人物内容来讲述它的故事,这使得古驰在一个多世纪以来,成为时尚和集体视觉文化中的标志性开拓者。Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展是一种身临其境的体验,在这一过程中,古驰的起源故事和发展历史将不断受到未来想象力的验证。”
艾斯·戴夫林曾与全球顶尖文化机构及知名音乐人合作,创作出令人印象深刻的装置作品与表演场景。此次Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展中,她的设计融合了创意音效、视觉与动态技术,鸟瞰时,明亮的装置布局形似一系列齿轮和车辙,微妙地向展览所在地上海西岸艺术中心的工业遗迹致敬,令人联想起这座城市在欧亚商业与文化交流中做出的长久贡献。展览布景以太空中的轨道为视觉隐喻,传递出品牌恒久的理念,表达了古驰强大的引力如何借由经典设计、无限创意与工匠精神乃至广泛的社会触角,塑造出无数意义深远的回响与共鸣。
空间一:传送站
World 1: Portals
作为《寰宇古驰》典藏展八大空间之首,“传送站”讲述了品牌创始人古奇欧·古驰先生的故事,呈现了他年轻时于伦敦萨沃伊酒店(The Savoy)担任行李员的经历对品牌的持续影响。“传送站”的八道旋转门似是对萨沃伊酒店入口的致敬,引领观者进入这一空间。“传送站”设有三条移动的环状行李传送带,装载着古驰最为精美的行李箱设计,其中包含古奇欧·古驰先生于20世纪 20 年代末设计的最初标志性行李箱之一、由奥尔多·古驰在20世纪60年代为致敬父亲所设计的双 G 印花帆布手提行李箱,以及来自 Epilogue 系列的迪士尼印花行李箱,它由亚力山卓·米开理于 2020 年设计,展现了时尚与流行文化的巧妙融合。不断旋转的“传送站”囊括了历任创作总监在设计学识、创意与灵感层面的交流,展现出他们如何挖掘并重塑品牌的灵魂,从而传递古驰不变的当代属性。值得一提的是,“传送站”外圈设置了八个“古驰时光境”多媒体透视景观,灵感来自古驰过去至今的文化偶像,包括杰奎琳·肯尼迪·奥纳西斯(Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis)、摩纳哥王妃格蕾丝·凯利(Princess Grace of Monaco)、威尔士王妃戴安娜(Diana, Princess of Wales),以及品牌代言人李宇春、倪妮、鹿晗与肖战,继而致敬电影之城罗马及其国际名流与好莱坞明星汇集的时代盛景。



空间二:驰骋地
World 2: Zoetrope
长久以来,古驰不断从马术领域汲取设计灵感,“驰骋地”便深刻讲述了古驰与马术领域的联结。其环形空间点缀着沉浸式大型屏幕,呈现出记忆中的影像片段,在富有节奏的疾驰音效伴随下,以马术驰骋为灵感的词语应和着节拍,以旁白的方式吟诵。多件典藏品展示了古驰的马术标志如何在经年累月间为品牌激发出不竭的想象力——例如奥尔多·古驰于1953年设计的马衔扣(Horsebit),以及以马腹带为灵感的经典绿红绿条纹织带(Web)。走进此空间,可一览马衔扣的发展历史,从最初在乐福鞋上正式亮相,到1955年重新设计后于包袋上的呈现,也定义了2020年问世的Gucci Horsebit 1955手袋;再到20世纪60 年代的皮带,20世纪70 年代的羊毛麂皮长裙,以及由汤姆·福特设计的肩背包,应有尽有。“驰骋地”同样体现了近年来,品牌历任创作总监如何巧妙地为马术的传统贵族气质赋予更具欲望的可能性,包括汤姆·福特设计的马鞭与亚力山卓·米开理设计的马衔扣黑色皮革胸衣。



空间三:伊甸花园
World 3: Eden
典藏展的“伊甸花园”空间生动演绎了花神芙洛拉(Flora)的故事,呈现了一幅精致的自然风光图景。1966年,鲁道夫·古驰委托意大利艺术家兼插画家维托里奥·阿孔内罗(Vittorio Accornero de Testa)为摩纳哥王妃格蕾丝·凯利创作的丝巾,奠定了古驰1981 成衣系列的主旨,并于佛罗伦萨皮蒂宫(Palazzo Pitti)内的白厅(Sala Bianca)正式发布,后也成为汤姆·福特、弗里达·贾娜妮与亚力山卓·米开理的灵感之光,点燃了他们的艺术才华。在“伊甸花园”这一明亮而布满镜面的环形空间内,古驰与自然世界美丽多样的关联持续呈现。灵感源自阿孔内罗创作中的巨型花卉和昆虫装置穿插其间,悬挂于重要展品之上,揭示了Flora花卉图案对古驰典藏之作源源不断的启迪。

从1969年华丽夺目的Flora花卉图案真丝迷你裙、到亚力山卓·米开理设计的印有箴言“执迷于爱“(L’Aveugle Par Amour)的标志性刺绣羊毛内衬牛仔外套,以及一系列真丝围巾与织物手袋,体现了这一优雅图案是如何得到善用、再诠释进而糅合出新的魅力。


空间四:偶
World 4: Two
离开生机盎然的“伊甸花园”,迎面而来的是一对高达十米的巨型白色雕像。两座雕像如同古老神庙的门神,象征着古驰中性时尚的开创观念及其对社会知行的影响。在如同空白画布的雕像上,循环投射着古驰从过去至今的标志性男女套装影像。其中包括汤姆·福特于1996年设计的著名红色天鹅绒西服套装、弗里达·贾娜妮设计的收腰格纹西服套装,以及亚力山卓·米开理的作品,如 2016 年推出的花色夺目中性套装与 2023春夏《Gucci Twinsburg》系列中的套装。


空间五:典藏馆
World 5: Archivio
进入“典藏馆”,探索古驰最经典手袋的起源。在这个令人惊叹的空间里,镜面天花板营造出无垠之境,迷宫般的走廊中排列着许多陈列柜和抽屉,有些打开着露出其中的物件,有的则紧闭或半开,或藏在磨砂玻璃后,仿佛隐匿自身的秘密。存放在“典藏馆”中的一系列历史手袋,包含五款兼具摩登感的品牌经典之作:Gucci Bamboo 1947、Jackie 1961、Gucci Horsebit 1955、Gucci Diana 以及 Dionysus手袋。此外,也包括了20世纪 60 年代一个罕见的彩色竖条纹麻质面料竹节手袋,它焕新演绎了古奇欧·古驰先生的设计,以及一个20世纪90年代的皮革竹节手袋;还有早期的Jackie手袋,具有标志性的推入式搭扣与条纹织带,及20世纪70年代末重新演绎双G图案的款式。同时展出的还有一款诞生于 20世纪90 年代初的红色皮革竹柄托特包,这是亚力山卓·米开理在2020 年重新诠释的 Gucci Diana原型手袋。此外,还有两款带有双 G 标识的手袋:一款是20世纪 70 年代初的黑色皮革手袋,其标志性的圆形互扣式双G图案,成为于 2021 年首次亮相的 Gucci Blondie 手袋的设计灵感;另一款则是由亚力山卓·米开理创作,于2016年首次亮相的白色绗缝皮革GG Marmont手袋。于陈列柜旁,观者可以从抽屉中欣赏维托里奥·阿孔内罗为丝巾印花设计的复刻手稿、工匠的技术档案与底稿、以及典藏广告海报,继续“典藏馆”探索之旅。



空间六:珍奇屋
World 6: Cabinet Of Wonders
在圆形的“珍奇屋”中心,坐落着一个旋转的实体藏宝阁。这座令人惊叹的三米高立方体装置,涂有深红色漆面,内置多个抽屉和隔层,如机关一般滑动,伴随着呼吸般的背景声,展示了风格兼收并蓄的一系列服装、配饰和古董。它完整呈现了古驰的设计谱系,从汤姆·福特2001时装系列中的黑色皮革紧身胸衣,到2006 年弗里达·贾娜妮设计的金色晚礼服,再到 2018 年亚力山卓·米开理别具一格的绣有蕾丝、珍珠与串珠连衣裙;一个奇特的黑色天鹅绒手拿包,饰有20世纪50 年代的镀金金属锁扣;一个来自2019年饰有尖形铆钉的朋克风球形皮革手袋;一系列精选自20世纪 60 年代至 2020 年的非凡珠宝首饰,和一套20世纪 70 年代初的鹿形银制酒杯;此外,还有亚力山卓·米开理设计的黑色鸵鸟羽毛扇和汤姆·福特时代诞生的电吉他。作为古驰自由内核的象征,“珍奇屋”见证了古驰将天马行空的想象化为美学灵感,大胆地逐心而行。



空间七:灵感廊
World 7: Carousel
来到“灵感廊”,由32个人形模特组成的队列,身着20世纪70年代至今的古驰服饰,如同时装模特一般在T台上不断移动。来自往季时装系列的服饰经过精心排列——并非按时间顺序,而是对色彩与设计灵感的重组。“灵感廊”开启了跨越时空的创意连结,强调了古驰在传统与现代之间跳跃进行的对话。20世纪70年代的真丝衬衫及带有“方块G”图案的半裙,与2016年雅致俏皮的羊毛外套上的错视缎带图案相得益彰;2012 年弗里达·贾娜妮设计的串绣流苏裙,与汤姆·福特于1996年设计的中性西装蕴含的享乐主义和诱惑魅力相映成趣。在循环展示服装造型的同时,包括倪傳婧、张文绮、健美糖(李健美)和咖喱牛在内的中国艺术家受邀创作插画汇聚于此,形成一幅集锦画卷,进一步强化了不同地域之间的创意连结。



空间八:苍穹殿堂
World 8: Duomo
在最初的百年间,古驰展现了灵思泉涌的创造力,不断体现并改变时代潮流——随着品牌成为奢华旅行与国际名流之选,多年来声誉巩固——古驰始终扎根于它的精神和美学诞生地,佛罗伦萨。“苍穹殿堂”是Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展实至名归的终点,是对佛罗伦萨的绝美致敬。两个大型复刻结构灵感源自建筑师菲利波·布鲁内列斯基(Filippo Brunelleschi)于15世纪为佛罗伦萨圣母百花大教堂(Santa Maria del Fiore)所设计的具有革新意义的圆形穹顶;两者互相倒置,中间由一个悬空的观景平台相连通。其中,古驰从过去至今的设计创意与图案被投射到穹顶内部,营造出抽离时空的全方位光影体验。这一循环组成的绚丽奇观,包含着以Flora花卉图案为灵感的花簇,为这段赞颂古驰恒久价值的旅程画下圆满的句点。

Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展是古驰精神的一次实验式化身,是对品牌最经典设计、标识和创作的致敬,也是对设计师与工匠们卓越技艺的称颂。自1921年古奇欧·古驰先生创立品牌至今,古驰始终坚持自身在创造力与意大利工艺上的顶尖地位,并以全球性的视角,致力于展现真正的奢华品质、标志性设计以及足以塑造未来的无限创意。
Gucci Cosmos《寰宇古驰》典藏展于 2023 年 4 月 28 日起,至6月25日,在中国上海西岸艺术中心呈现。随后,将于全球范围巡回展出。
署名及致谢
展览概念及设计: 艾斯·戴夫林
策展: 玛丽亚·路易莎·富丽萨
视频创意
创意总监: Polina Zakharova
监制: Sveta Yermolayeva
制作: Hard Feelings Studio
声音设计/作曲: Monoleak
执行制作: Activation Group
“传送站”中文书法: 孙旭
“灵感廊”插画创作: 倪傳婧、张文绮、健美糖(李健美),咖喱牛
“苍穹殿堂”
致谢Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore
特别鸣谢
特别感谢上海市政府,徐汇区委、徐汇区政府对于本次展览的大力支持。
特别感谢陈冠中先生对展览中文名称提供建议。
场地支持:上海西岸艺术中心
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The Princess of Hanover)选定主题,并邀请众多国际设计师、演员、精英汇聚于此,法国记者、电台主持人、演员斯特凡·贝尔尼(Stéphane Bern)也参与其中,共襄公益盛举,再次缔造属于这个国度的传奇故事。
(2023玫瑰慈善舞会)
玫瑰慈善舞会由格蕾丝王妃(Grace Kelly)在1954年创办,时至今日它不仅是全球精英重要的社交活动,更是国际公认的慈善活动。因为每年舞会皆在玫瑰盛放的3月举办,故称为玫瑰慈善舞会。
每年玫瑰慈善舞会都会有不同的主题,为这场盛会赋予与众不同的意义与象征。今年汉诺威王妃(H.R.H. The Princess of Hanover)将舞会主题定为“宝莱坞”,并邀请了拥有“红底鞋贵族”之称的传奇品牌设计师克里斯汀·路铂廷(Christian Louboutin)作为艺术指导,制作舞会海报与舞台设计,呈现精彩视觉效果。设计师运用宝莱坞特有的明丽色彩与复杂图案,将东方传统元素与西方摩登风格融汇。同时结合宝莱坞电影风格,星际大厅(Salle des Etoiles)的入口也在舞会当天被改造成为星光熠熠的红毯,设计师以极具视觉冲击力的金色闪片元素,搭配充满影片感的图案,为所有到此而来的嘉宾打造了一个闪亮舞台。
(2023摩纳哥玫瑰慈善舞会入场处)
经过红毯走入星际大厅(Salle des Etoiles),影视元素随处可见,舞台更是令人惊艳。带有印度建筑风格的边沿,将此处打造成为视觉重点。层叠矗立的宝莱坞特色建筑,与拍摄现场常见的打光灯、导演椅、道具箱等元素前后呼应,直接大胆展现电影风格。众多元素将舞台化身为一个电影制片厂,精彩演出在此上演,带领现场嘉宾踏上一段载歌载舞的旅程,一位美丽的年轻印度女性,也首次受邀参与到玫瑰慈善舞会之中来。
(2023摩纳哥玫瑰慈善舞会演出舞台)
本届玫瑰慈善舞会邀请众多印度表演艺术家,在此上演精彩非凡的演出。晚会由拉贾斯坦邦吉普赛人Bassant团体热烈开场,带领现场嘉宾穿越至印度北部,感受当地歌舞风情。著名编舞家Kamal Kant和Megha Jagawat紧随其后,传递宝莱坞电影特色风情。巴黎歌剧院芭蕾舞团首席舞蹈演员Jeremy Loup Quer与著名编舞兼演员共同登场,携手演绎这个神奇的故事,结尾由Punit J.Pathak和Mika惊艳登场,为这场从印度至摩纳哥的艺术旅程画上圆满的句号。

(现场表演)
玫瑰慈善舞会不仅是一场精彩非凡的精英盛宴,更是一项具有国际影响力的慈善事业,现场各项抽奖与其他特别奖项的全部收益,皆会捐献给格蕾丝王妃基金会,为全球困难人群和贫困儿童提供帮助,开展人道主义和慈善行动。
在无处不传奇的蒙特卡洛滨海度假集团,每年的玫瑰慈善舞会的举办都会吸引世界的目光,也让摩纳哥公国再次成为全球瞩目的胜地。在这里,超乎想象的梦境与美好皆会成为现实。
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关于摩纳哥蒙特卡洛滨海度假集团
摩纳哥蒙特卡洛滨海度假集团始创于1863年,隶属于摩纳哥皇室产业,是整个欧洲极富盛名的奢华度假村之一,也是整个蓝色海岸上历史悠久的私人奢华旅游产业集团。集团将摩纳哥当地自然环境和历史文化元素相结合,通过4间酒店(蒙特卡洛巴黎大酒店、蒙特卡洛秘境大酒店、蒙特卡洛海滩酒店、蒙特卡洛海湾度假大酒店)、30多间餐厅与酒吧(其中4间共摘得7颗米其林星)、3间水疗浴场、2间赌场、60+奢品名店,在这个“无处不传奇”的国度演绎近百年来独特生活艺术,为所有到此而来的宾客打造独一无二的全方位集合度假体验。
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中国上海(2022 年 9 月 5 日)——睡到自然醒是对于周末的欢颂,自然、健康的早午餐是对于惬意生活的延续。上海外滩华尔道夫酒店的「华丽早午餐」在这个初秋正式回归,厨师团队甄选优质当季食材,结合现代创新烹饪手法将零点式菜单及饕餮海鲜一一呈现,领略丰富多彩的舌尖之旅。伴随着四位音乐艺术家现场演奏轻爵士乐,在喧嚣的城市中心谱写一曲慵懒周日的唤醒乐章。
前奏 —— 法式前菜
崇尚自然、健康日渐成为饮食的主旋律。各类沙拉、法式冷切和芝士化成的一只轻骑兵,奏响华尔道夫早午餐的前奏。布里芝士,大孔干酪等各类法国芝士的咸甜与奶香融合的恰到好处,西班牙 5J 带骨 36 个月整腿火腿,薄如蝉翼,细品鲜美;法式布里欧面包与咸/淡黄油的搭配,演绎经典传承的早午餐风韵,食客们透过落地窗俯瞰整个漂亮的绿色庭院,在熙熙攘攘的城市里享受一种难得的平静与自然。
启幕 —— 饕餮海鲜
汇集各地鲜美海味,诠释食材原味以及最初质地的味蕾体验。正值时令的新鲜梭子蟹、鲜活的帝皇蟹腿、波士顿龙虾整只现开,新西兰海螯虾、蛤蜊及澳洲鲍鱼等鲜美的滋味呈现于桌前。产于爱尔兰、新西兰、法国的生蚝肥美丰腴,入口便是浓郁的海水味道,而后伴有淡淡甜味。另有吉拉多生蚝 2 号现场派送,送至席间,配上一勺圆润饱满、微泛金黄光泽的鱼子酱,甘甜与咸鲜叠加。
来自深海的蓝鳍金枪鱼腩,口感滑润,脂香浓郁并带有清晰的雪花纹路,三文鱼刺身质地爽脆,蘸上少许酱油和芥末放入口中,鱼油的脂香一触即发,鲜甜可口,于舌尖寻味山海之鲜。
中章 ——鹅肝两吃
法式鹅肝讲究冷热两吃,法式鹅肝酱与香槟啫喱的经典搭配,细腻丰腴的鹅肝滑过舌尖;带着炙烤温度的法式鹅肝,滋滋油香,入口即化;鹅肝酱慕斯搭配法式泡芙,也是不可或缺的味蕾选择。
高潮 ——肉食狂欢
食间,主厨臻选的美飨推车逐一亮相。厨师与食客零距离互动,现切并制作烤羊排、带骨火腿等多重美味,让肉食爱好者大块朵颐。而户外花园成为战斧牛排、T 骨牛排的烧烤主战场,炭火炙烤为这个周日释放不一样的烟火气。
此外,百味园全新早午餐零点菜单包含法式海鲜汤、龙虾班尼迪蛋、牛肝菌蛋卷,值得一提的是华尔道夫经典美味—— “班尼迪克蛋”,切开即现浓郁金黄蛋液的水波蛋,淋上口感香浓丝滑的淡黄色荷兰酱堪称完美。主菜有多种选择:从香草黄油烤春鸡到和牛汉堡等多道热菜均现点现做,为味蕾营造不一样的仪式感。
尾声 —— 甜品花屋
以丰富的想象力重塑一座薰衣草主题的甜品花屋,呈现多重精致小点,不添加任何香精色素,坚持食材本真之味,另有独具匠心的液氮冰淇淋推车现场派送,新鲜莓果与无酒精果汁的健康混搭,让这场奇妙的早午餐旅程迎来甜蜜收尾。

华尔道夫早午餐
门市价
每周日(12:00-15:00):每位人民币 888*元,含特色饮品果畅饮
推广优惠(即日起至 2022 年 11 月 27 日)
每周日(12:00-15:00):每位人民币 698*元,含特色饮品果汁畅饮
每周日(12:00-15:00):每位人民币 998*元,含特色饮品果汁畅喝及巴黎之花香槟一瓶
*以上价格需加收 15%服务费。
百味园,上海外滩华尔道夫,中山东一路 2 号
垂询或预订,敬请致电+86 (0)21-6322-9988,或致电邮:shawa.fb@waldorfastoria.com.
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关于上海外滩华尔道夫酒店
上海外滩华尔道夫酒店坐拥举世闻名的上海外滩核心地带,依托着美丽如画的浦江盛景。它完美 结合了闻名遐迩的百年历史建筑楼—曾经辉煌鼎盛的上海总会,以及一幢拔地而起的全新大楼。 酒店内设 260 间奢华客房及套房、6 个屡获殊荣的餐厅及酒吧、11 个宴会厅及会议室及设备先进的健身中心。更多详情或预订,请拨打电话(86)21-63229988 或登陆www.waldorfastoriashanghai.com.
关于华尔道夫酒店及度假村
华尔道夫酒店及度假村品牌旗下拥有 32 家标志性的奢华酒店,遍布世界各大地标城市,致力于为宾客提供私人化服务,打造至臻美食体验。华尔道夫酒店及度假村以“至真华尔道夫服务”以及精致奢华的环境,为宾客打造从入住那一刻直到退房离开的真挚时刻。除品牌提供的知名酒店服务以外,华尔道夫以品质上乘的酒店式公寓著称,拥有 18 家营业及在建酒店,将私家寓所的舒适性和华尔道夫的卓越礼遇与传奇服务相结合。华尔道夫酒店及度假村是国际知名的酒店管理公司希尔顿品牌组合的一员。
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2021年10月16日-17日,为期两天的“潮电狂欢”在上海外滩W酒店池畔酒吧火热上演。从午后到满天星辰,拉美风情的热烈与奔放不断点燃现场,异域美食与酒饮如期而至,夏日热情的余温持续四溢,燃爆魔都。

随着巨型“皮纳塔”的入侵,富有拉美风情的“潮电狂欢”在上海外滩W酒店拉开帷幕。“皮纳塔”来自墨西哥,据传,起源于中国,它是恶之魔鬼,掠夺着世间美好,但只要将他击碎,美好事物便能尽数夺回。活动现场设置了敲打皮纳塔的创意互动环节,一敲一击,金光四散而出,流光溢彩间,尽情迎接幸运的降临。四周还装点着充满拉美元素的装饰艺术,伴随动感的节拍,带领宾客穿梭至大洋彼岸的拉丁美洲,注入热情的能量,尽情舞动,纵情狂欢。

为打造身临其境的异域风情,W酒店精心设计了别具风味的创意美食和特调鸡尾酒。5款特供小食的灵感,来源于墨西哥街边的小吃文化,当地的特色烤玉米、塔可、西班牙油条新颖升级,不仅小巧可口,还带有丝丝辣意,让宾客在品尝美味的同时,感受来自南美的火热与随性。调酒师也在酒杯中延续热烈,将酒精与多种南美水果相融合,碰撞出一杯杯彩色夺目的鸡尾酒。一辆满载椰子酒饮的小车行驶而过,独属于夏日的热情元素从中可以窥见。轻尝一口,浅酌一杯,宾客们的视觉与味蕾都被染上了斑斓的色彩。

星光掩映着户外池畔酒吧,精心打造的狂欢舞池绽放绚丽之姿。宾客可以一边远眺黄浦江霓虹耀眼的夜景,一边沉浸在电光闪烁的派对中。品味一杯诱人的风味鸡尾酒,邂逅一段多元的味蕾惊喜,跟随欢快的旋律在舞池中心随意动,这场充满拉美风情的“潮电狂欢”已将魔都引爆,越夜越精彩。

夏日已经接近尾声,但热情不减。虽然今年最后一场池畔酒吧狂欢已落幕,但上海外滩W酒店还将上演更多惊喜:潮流音乐在WOOBAR®酒吧延续,一段远离尘嚣的鸡尾酒之旅即将启程;艳汁酒吧迎来众盼重启,是时候穿越回20年代老上海的“地下”酒吧了。接下来还有精彩纷呈的感恩节派对和圣诞节主题盛宴,等你来焕活与探索这个绚丽冬季。

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BALL昨晚于上海静安瑞吉酒店盛大举办,张艺谋获颁“亚洲卓别林大奖”!";s:6:"author";s:12:"尚流TATLER";s:7:"content";s:16328:"一年一度最令人期待的社交盛典TATLER BALL昨晚于上海静安瑞吉酒店盛大举办,张艺谋获颁“亚洲卓别林大奖”!梁朝伟、刘嘉玲、惠英红、周冬雨、Kiera Chaplin、朱珠、马岩松、雷宛萤、林瀚等明星名流齐聚一堂,超过220位在艺术、商界、文化等各个领域有突出贡献的行业领袖们共襄盛举,与尚流TATLER一同共享17年的荣耀与璀璨!







名流云集,璀璨之夜
01星光点亮未来盛典
放眼整个亚洲,一年一度的TATLER BALL是最令人期待的社交盛事,社会各界的精英人士均会盛装出席。今年,由连续两年荣膺Skytrax五星航空公司认证的日本航空Japan Airlines冠名赞助的2019年TATLER BALL以“We are the future” 为主题展开。





TATLER选择与日本航空联袂,正是由于其倡导的#飞向未来#理念与此次盛会主题不谋而合,而日本航空不断升级机舱标准与服务品质为旅客带来卓越体验的精神更与TATLER致力于传播精致奢华生活方式的理念完美契合。
晚宴现场星光熠熠,著名导演张艺谋,知名演员梁朝伟、刘嘉玲、惠英红、周冬雨、朱珠,知名建筑师马岩松,木木美术馆创始人林瀚、雷宛萤等各界名人均盛装出席。当晚红毯,夺目璀璨。
著名导演 张艺谋
知名演员 梁朝伟、刘嘉玲
知名演员 惠英红
知名演员 周冬雨
知名演员 朱珠
知名建筑师 马岩松
木木美术馆创始人 林瀚、雷宛萤夫妇
曹小夏女士、石渡丹尔
嘉宾们云裳鬓影,锦衣华服,佩戴着精美的高级珠宝,全身每个细节都和谐点题,优雅大方地现身TATLER BALL的盛典现场,令夜晚熠熠生辉。






佩戴宝诗龙高级珠宝作品的明星名流
嘉宾们身着各式带有未来元素的华丽礼服,在现场极具未来感的装置前纷纷驻足合影,让人仿佛乘着穿梭机穿越到未知的未来时空,留下珍贵的记忆。
朱珠




晚宴在著名英籍华裔钢琴家Rosey Chan演奏的一曲悠扬钢琴曲中拉开帷幕,空竹人影互动表演、电光芭蕾等演出精彩纷呈,将晚宴气氛推向高潮。
著名英籍华裔钢琴家Rosey Chan
空竹人影互动表演
电光芭蕾
随后,Edipresse Media亚太区主席暨执行总裁Michel Lamunière先生致辞,他表示:“亚洲即将成为全球最为重要的经济体,亚洲世纪即将到来,在这样一个背景下,TATLER作为一个亚洲媒体平台,将会迎来全新的机遇和挑战。2020年,TATLER将会带来全新的形象和改版,势必将会成为一个凝聚亚洲最具影响力人物的全方位媒体平台。”
Edipresse Media亚太区主席暨执行总裁Michel Lamunière先生致辞
02年度奖项 强强联手
各大奖项于2019 TATLER BALL揭晓
晚宴开始后,延续尚流TATLER的传统, TATLER BALL各个重要的年度奖项也在现场颁发,由Edipresse Media集团亚太区主席暨执行总裁Michel Lamunière先生以及中国区董事总经理沈清女士逐一揭晓,对本年度最受关注及对社会做出卓越贡献的人士予以表彰。当晚授予的奖项包括:
未来推动者大奖:张艺谋
年度之星:周冬雨
杰出文化贡献奖:马岩松
杰出公益贡献奖:曹鹏(曹小夏代领)
亚洲最时尚女性:雷宛萤
宝诗龙女性自由精神奖:惠英红
今年,巴黎高级珠宝世家BOUCHERON宝诗龙首次与TATLER携手合作,在TATLER BALL颁发“宝诗龙女性自由精神奖”,特别颁发给实力影后惠英红女士,她在台前幕后的独立精神与宝诗龙展现女性独立风采的品牌创作核心,大胆率性的创造力和独具匠心的工艺的品牌理念,以及品牌秉承的女性自由概念不谋而合。
两届亚洲卓别林电影人士艺术成就奖获得者与Kiera Chaplin
当晚最大的惊喜是第二届“亚洲卓别林电影人士艺术成就奖”(Asia Chaplin Award)的揭晓,去年该奖项自1972年创立以来首次离开大洋彼岸的纽约,来到中国上海,与TATLER BALL强强联手。今年中国电影最具代表性的领袖人物,知名导演张艺谋获得这个电影界的至高荣誉,查理·卓别林的孙女Kiera Chaplin为张艺谋导演颁奖,掀起了当晚高潮。
查理·卓别林孙女Kiera Chaplin为张艺谋颁奖
众所周知,张艺谋所导演的作品曾获得柏林电影节金熊奖、银熊奖及两次威尼斯电影节金狮奖,并三次提名奥斯卡和五次提名金球奖,曾任第18届东京国际电影节评委会主席和第64届威尼斯国际电影节评委会主席。在艺术结合商业的道路上,他也树立了独有的成功典范,两次刷新中国电影票房纪录,四次夺得年度华语片票房冠军。更因为他导演了2004年雅典奥运会闭幕式北京8分钟、2008年奥运会开幕式、杭州G20峰会而被尊称为“国师导演”,作为2019年建国70周年庆典总导演,为全球华人献上了一场卓越的盛典,在本次TATLER BALL上获颁“亚洲卓别林电影人士艺术成就奖”可谓实至名归。所有来宾举杯同庆,共同见证这一历史性的一刻。
梁朝伟,刘嘉玲,陈婷,张艺谋
刘嘉玲,周冬雨,梁朝伟
林瀚,马岩松,雷宛萤,刘嘉玲,梁朝伟
03佳肴美酒 精彩纷呈



除了颁奖的重头戏,TATLER BALL 还为到场嘉宾提供了诸多惊喜。上海静安瑞吉酒店为2019TATLER BALL晚宴设计了精美菜单,贵宾沉浸在美酒佳肴和欢声笑语的热烈气氛中,频频举杯。
陈基强,李小红,张艳,孟俊,杨芳,温俊宇,邓广坚
历年新锐先锋欢聚一堂
宾客们抵达现场迎来第一感官嗅觉的也是今年TATLER BALL以未来为主题现场定制的香型:Future Metropolis(未来都市):由无花果树、雪松木、琥珀、檀香木等植物香气调配而成,传递未来都市的活力、时尚和充满无限想象的创新气息。此香型由Aroart香氛品牌邀请Air/Aroma法国特约调香师为2019 TATLER BALL特别定制。



酩悦轩尼诗精心准备的唐培里侬2008年份香槟、台阶安第斯山脉典藏马尔贝克红葡萄酒与霞多丽白葡萄酒、轩尼诗V·S·O·P干邑白兰地,美食美酒完美烘托,贵宾与志同道合的友人觥筹交错,相谈甚欢。
志同道合的友人们觥筹交错
晚宴过后,宾客们移步上海静安瑞吉酒店一楼的瑞吉酒吧举行After Party,并享用无限供应的美酒小食,在热舞中延续这梦幻一夜!
DJ引嗨晚宴后派对
冯印陶、浦奕柳、薛晓玮
周游、谢易格
派对终场,日本航空Japan Airlines、巴黎高级珠宝世家Boucheron宝诗龙以及世界领先的消费级基因检测品牌CircleDNA圆基因为各位来宾准备了精美的礼品,让大家尽兴而归。
日本航空Japan Airlines的机舱未来感十足
巴黎高级珠宝世家BOUCHERON拍照打卡点
世界领先的消费级基因检测品牌CircleDNA圆基因
当梦幻一夜落下帷幕,来宾们与尚流TATLER 一起度过了难忘的时刻,希望来年有更多新朋友和老朋友的加入,让我们相约2020年 TATLER BALL!
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Ball上周末在北京瑰丽酒店隆重举行,以“游园京梦”为主题的梦幻社交夜庆祝《尚流TATLER》进入中国15周年。我们为你奉上活动全报道,让你重温这个华服美食、名人话题、荣誉时刻的美妙夜晚!



▲TATLER Ball的晚宴及派对在北京瑰丽酒店进行,传统韵味与飞速发展的现代文明结合的酒店氛围与"摩登东方"不谋而合。
社交之夜
作为最受名流名媛、社交精英期待的年度盛宴,TATLER Ball请来的贵宾自然是阵容豪华,社交明星、豪门二代、商界精英众星云集,共赴这一场华丽之约。







社交之夜
作为最受名流名媛、社交精英期待的年度盛宴,TATLER Ball请来的贵宾自然是阵容豪华,社交明星、豪门二代、商界精英众星云集,共赴这一场华丽之约。
立体灯笼背板
超震撼的背景板由数种造型各异的红灯笼组成,在这面3D立体拍照墙前,由现场灯光变换与拍照角度的不同,让嘉宾留下360度立体美的倩影~

古色古香的屏风
一块中式屏风将灯笼背板与Cocktail分割成两个区域,其古色古香的设计也引得宾客们纷纷驻足留影,是TATLER Ball场地空间设计的巧思之一。

Crazy Rouge独家拍照墙
《尚流TATLER》的明星摄影师Crazy Rouge为今年TATLER Ball特别设计了一块拍照背板,结合梅花、仙鹤、招财猫、灯笼、折扇、剪纸等中国风与现代元素。一众名流名媛争相拍照,流连忘返!

重庆来福士广场也将西南地标带到现场让大家感受商务休闲地、名仕居住地与旅行观景目的地合一的梦幻场景,沙盘演示比肩全球都市的风范,成为Cocktail区一大亮点。


重庆来福士广场沙盘展示
摩登东方
为了当晚Dress Code“摩登东方”,许多名门淑媛早早地准备了“战袍”,从流苏耳环、古典手包到复古妆容,各领风骚契合主题,时髦演绎东方元素的晚装是当晚一大看点!






















































荣誉时刻
TATLER Ball上的重头戏,便是各大奖项的揭晓。《尚流TATLER》对全国最炙手可热的人物及在该年度对社会作出卓越贡献的人士予以表彰,看看今年的获奖嘉宾都有谁?
荣获 “Most Stylish Lady 最时尚女性”奖项的余晚晚女士由Edipresse Media亚洲执行主席Michel Lamunière和中国区董事总经理April Hsu徐淑雯女士颁奖,她也获得了Franck Muller提供的精美腕表一枚。

荣获 “Leader of Tomorrow未来领袖”的李叶女士,她创立的非盈利平台NGCC新生代协同中国为青年领导力发声,这项大奖颁给她可谓实至名归,Clé de Peau Beauté肌肤之钥为得奖人提供了奢雅极全系列产品。

荣获“Cultural Champion 杰出文化贡献奖”的国际钢琴大师、联合国和平大使郎朗,Soneva Fushi提供了马尔代夫奢华度假酒店之旅,他将度过一段美妙的时光。

“Diamond Award 至尊荣耀大奖”得主余德耀先生因为身体原因无法来到现场,余德耀先生的女儿余至柔小姐代为领奖!Kent&Curwen为得奖人提供的高级男士定制西服。

惊喜体验
为感谢各位新老朋友与《尚流TATLER》一起见证这辉煌的十五年,当晚所有获奖者和Edipresse Media亚洲执行主席Michel Lamunière、亚洲首席创新官Julie Lee、中国区董事总经理April Hsu徐淑雯女士和编辑总监Paris Kuo以及Edipresse China Team上台切生日蛋糕,一起庆祝这“尚流一刻”!

TATLER Ball还为到场嘉宾提供了许多助兴环节,东西方文化碰撞的舞蹈、精彩的爵士表演令现场的气氛更上一层楼。

前苏联的双胞胎姐妹花,舞蹈艺术家Gudenko Mariah和Gudenko Nadia首次结合了中国古典桃花妆和现代舞蹈,东西方文化的碰撞给大家带来了全新的感官体验。

北京最出色的爵士女声,来自法国的Rani Géroult和她的明星爵士乐手两度上台给现场宾客带来精彩表演。


美食盛宴
北京瑰丽酒店的餐饮运营总监Matias Martinez特别为TATLER Ball晚宴设计了特别菜单,从食材搭配到精美装盘都呈现了东西方结合元素的融合。除此之外,Castiglion del Bosco为晚宴特别提供了两款限量美酒,令嘉宾们频频举杯。










晚宴过后宾客移步瑰丽酒店五楼Meibar举行的After Party,并享用无限供应的美酒小食,在热舞中延续这梦幻一夜!



真诚赠礼
TATLER Ball也为每一位宾客准备了丰厚的Goodie Bag,以答谢这一年来贵宾们对《尚流TATLER》的大力支持。

感谢以下品牌为 Tatler Ball 来宾提供的精美礼品:
重庆来福士广场
A-Zenith
Castiglion del Bosco
Clé de Peau Beauté肌肤之钥
Franck Muller
Gulfstream
Kent&Curwen
Rosewood Beijing
Sunraysia
Soneva Fuishi
这游园京梦夜已落下帷幕,感谢所有嘉宾共聚这美好一夜,希望来年有更多新朋友加入,让我们相约明年TATLER Ball!
更多TATLER Ball的精彩报道,请点击:
TATLER Ball 2017正在上演,华丽社交夜抢先看!
史上最豁出去的主编欢迎文 为了TATLER Ball拼了 - 倒计时1天
上得Ball场下得厅堂的Lillian珠宝盒大揭秘 - 倒计时2天
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「 THE PEACOCK ROOM 」美国著名印象派画家詹姆斯·惠斯勒(James McNeill Whistler)重要室内作品,被认为是西方 19 世纪末的东方经典之作。Well-known interior work by the famous Impressionism (James McNeill Whistler)It is considered to be the Oriental classics of the Western 19 century.


以这场百年前“艺术与金钱的纠葛”为灵感来源,我们把这样一个西方艺术的经典之作带到上海兴业太古汇。Inspired by this century ago "art and money entanglements",We extend such a classic of Western art to Shanghai.
60 人超长主餐桌,Main Dinning Area用餐空间灵活运用。60 people super long table setting up in the middle of dining hall and flexible use upon requested.







两间中西风格的贵宾室,细致优雅,满足客人的不同所需。
The dining hall with two Chinese and Western style function rooms,exquisite and elegant, to meet the different needs of guests.





出品总厨 Sam Zhang,出生于马来西亚,游历全球后加入全球各大顶级酒店,深谙中西料理之精华,在川粤菜肴的创意搭配上,以国际水准为客人们带来独特的感官享受。Operation Executive Chef Sam Zhang, born in Malaysia.Travel around the world to join the world's top hotels, familiar with the essence of Chinese and Western cuisine,Sichuan Cantonese Cuisine in the creative mix, with international standards for guests to bring unique sensory enjoyment.











意大利侍酒师 Matteo 先生,于 The Peacock Room 始创之际受邀加入,致力于从世界葡萄酒名庄中挑选天作之合融合创新的川粤菜肴。他之前曾就职 Armani Hotel Dubai 等国际知名酒店。Mr. Matteo, who served as Beverage Manager,Invited to join the Peacock when prepare to establish.Committed to the selection of wine from the world to choose the perfect blend of innovative Sichuan Cantonese dishes.He has previously worked at Armani Hotel Dubai and other international renowned hotels.










顶楼城市之心景观露台和酒吧,在春天到来之际欢迎诸位前来赏光。(尚未开放)
THE PEACOCK ROOM
CONTEMPORARY CHINESE DINING
石门一路180号香港兴业太古汇S301
RSVP:021-52391999
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一年一度的TATLER Ball从来不仅是社交盛会,更是名媛们锦衣华服璀璨登场的时尚之夜。我们在游园“京”梦夜捕捉了10个身姿俏丽、装扮贴合"摩登东方"的迷人身影,作为今年优雅淑媛们的代表。
更多TATLER Ball的精彩报道,请点击:
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TATLER Ball 2017正在上演,华丽社交夜抢先看!
史上最豁出去的主编欢迎文 为了TATLER Ball拼了 - 倒计时1天
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延續植根於阿斯特家族重視天倫之樂的品牌傳统。不論是家庭中的年幼成員或是資深旅行家,各年齡層的賓客皆能透過獨具匠心的餐飲體驗與池畔活動,領略精緻生活的真諦。系列揉合以精緻度假為靈感所設計的趣味印花,富探險玩味的配飾以及經典太陽傘條紋設計,為家庭創旅行造難忘時光。香港瑞吉酒店總經理唐德權(Richard Taffs)先生表示:「我們非常高興在今夏將這合作帶到城中至臻地點,在香港瑞吉酒店締造令人沉醉的海濱度假氛圍,誠邀四方尊貴賓客蒞臨共享此全新沉浸式法式體驗。」

Vilebrequin法式池畔體驗
賓客可在香港瑞吉酒店一睹南法聖特羅佩的盛夏風情,沉浸於Vilebrequin主題池畔體驗。這片都市綠洲不僅提供奢華躺椅、限量手工意式雪糕與匠心池畔美饌,佐以合家歡遊戲點綴其間,邀請賓客遁入逸樂之境,在尊尚地段締造雅緻無憂的夏日假期。此外,酒店內同步呈獻Vilebrequin期間限定店,匯聚精選泳裝與度假服飾系列,其中更包括香港瑞吉酒店獨家發售的專屬限量印花列。
夏日限定下午茶味覺盛宴
今年夏天,於香港瑞吉酒店The Drawing Room大堂酒廊呈獻夏日限定下午茶,靈感源自Vilebrequin系列的繽紛色彩,誠邀賓客投入一場洋溢陽光與創意的味覺盛宴。
香港瑞吉酒店行政副總廚鄭曉峰(Hugo Cheng)及甜品主廚冼湯美(Tommy Sin)匠心設計一系列夏日鹹甜美點,並以今季大熱的開心果為主題。甜品方面,賓客可品嚐色彩繽紛的開心果馬斯卡彭芝士蛋糕(Parmigiano & Pistachio),將紅桑子、黑加侖果醬、馬斯卡彭芝士及牛油沙布列餅底層層結合;開心果慕斯蛋糕(Pistachio Mousse Cake)則選用輕盈開心果海綿蛋糕、
香脆脆層和開心果果仁醬,配以芒果熱情果珍珠,帶來多重口感。

驚喜之選包括開心果可麗露(Pistachio Cannelé),內藏濃郁開心果果仁醬,外層覆以幼滑開心果甘納許;焙茶瑪德蓮(Hojicha Madeleine)則以香濃焙茶蛋糕配合醇厚焙茶甘納許,層次分明。柑橘撻(CitrusTart)糅合多款柑橘、柚子杏仁忌廉、檸檬果醬及橙香忌廉,酸甜清新。鹹點方面,推介煙三文魚球(Smoked Salmon Sphere),以阿拉斯加蟹肉、青瓜及山葵蛋黃醬入饌,鮮味突出;油甘魚小吃(Hamachi Crudo)則以青芒果、芒果、青木瓜及柑橘調配,口感爽脆怡人。整個下午茶系列共十六款鹹甜小點,賓客可自選八款心水組合,專屬打造個人夏日美食時光。
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MUJI無印良品推出全新米糠发酵精华系列";s:4:"deck";s:0:"";s:6:"author";s:12:"尚流TATLER";s:7:"content";s:4962:"MUJI無印良品(下称MUJI)秉持「自然的力量」品牌理念,为追求自然护肤的人们带来更多选择,推出全新的「米糠发酵精华系列」。该系列包含米糠发酵精华液与米糠发酵精华水两款产品,以「先于开始,肌肤沉浸天然」的护肤主张,倡导「护肤第0步」的方式,让护肤回归自然本真的状态,促进后续护肤成分更好地吸收。
图1. MUJI全新米糠发酵精华水(左)、米糠发酵精华液(右)
MUJI从人、自然和物品的理想关系出发,将「自然的力量」的理念深深植根于护肤系列产品之中。MUJI认为肌肤本是自然产物,自然自有巨大能量,当功效源于自然万物,肌肤便不会脆弱,其生态也能如自然生态一般,重新复苏。因此,MUJI从自然之中汲取灵感,倡导肌肤与自然共生。
此次全新推出的米糠发酵精华系列,选用的核心成分米糠是由糙米加工成白米时产生的粉(糠层和胚芽),它们虽然只占整颗糙米很小一部分,却蕴含了大部分微量营养素。MUJI关注到这些“自古以来被认为对护肤有益”的天然素材,以及米糠本身具有的良好功效。以米糠发酵产物为主要成分开发得到了米糠发酵精华系列护肤品,帮助肌肤先于开始,沉浸天然。
图2. 由糙米加工成白米时产生的米糠
MUJI米糠发酵精华系列提出“护肤第0步”的概念,它使用在洁面之后,化妆水之前,主要用于为肌肤打底。其中含有的小分子氨基酸,能软化肌肤角质层,使后续护肤步骤中的护肤产品更易吸收,有效提升肌肤弹力,令肌肤保湿滋润。此外,MUJI米糠发酵精华液添加了65%以上米糠发酵液,可以令肌肤柔润光滑,有助于细致毛孔,提升肌肤弹力。同时,MUJI着眼肌肤自身蕴含的润泽成分,添加敏感肌肤易缺乏的神经酰胺和5种氨基酸,有效舒缓肌肤泛红,改善脆弱的状态,修护强韧肌肤。
图3. 适用于干燥肌肤的米糠发酵精华液
针对不同肤质的使用者,MUJI米糠发酵精华系列提供两款产品:米糠发酵精华液(50mL),适用于干燥肌肤人群,质地醇厚湿润,使用感偏粘稠,注重保湿功效;米糠发酵精华水,适用于油性和混合型肌肤人群,质地轻盈滋润,使用感偏清爽,可搭配面膜、喷头等不同单品,带来多种用法。米糠发酵精华水提供50mL至300mL三种规格选择,满足日常护理与差旅需求。
图4. 米糠发酵精华水提供三种规格选择
MUJI一直致力于倡导和构建可持续的生活方式,在开发护肤系列产品时,除了采用对肌肤友好的成分,也注重选用对环境友好的原材料与包装。将糙米变成白米过程中,本会被丢弃的米糠作为新的资源被充分利用,是MUJI对自然馈赠的珍惜;护肤品的空瓶可通过部分门店回收,是MUJI对环境保护的心意; 精华水圆肩形状的瓶身设计,能使比较醇厚的液体也可以用到最后一滴,是MUJI对物尽其用理念的践行。
MUJI米糠发酵精华系列,加乘肌肤吸收力,让肌肤与自然共生。真正的护肤需要肌肤与自然的连接,而“先于开始,肌肤沉浸天然”之时便是对肌肤细心呵护的开始。9月起,MUJI将陆续推出米糠发酵洗护系列、彩妆系列等产品,满足消费者多样化的需求。一直以来,MUJI汲取「自然的力量」,将自然的馈赠融入每一款护肤商品之中,通过日常护肤为消费者带去肌肤与自然的亲近,提供自然而然,美好持续的「良感生活」。
【关于MUJI】
MUJI無印良品所有的活动以顾客为中心,真诚营造良感生活,通过经营活动让所有伙伴幸福。未来,MUJI将继续秉持初心,不断探索创新,将更多符合中国消费者需求、能够提升生活品质的产品带入中国市场。
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Westwood《她和她的珠宝展》亚洲首展于上海前滩太古里揭幕之际,前滩香格里拉以"舌尖为画布",推出联名主题下午茶《她和她的珠宝展》,将品牌标志性的朋克美学与餐饮艺术深度融合,为都市精英打造一场跨越时空的味觉起义。
此次跨界合作以Vivienne Westwood 珠宝设计为灵感源泉,将品牌的先锋理念注入餐饮创作。甜品师从品牌DNA中提炼出"混沌与秩序"的核心哲学,匠心独运的设计了四款甜品与三种咸点,演绎朋克文化对传统美学的颠覆与重构。

文化碰撞:符号解构与东方叙事
甜品设计将Vivienne Westwood的品牌元素转化为可食用艺术:【香草白巧克力乌龙水蜜桃】以土星logo造型亮相,乌龙茶慕斯与水蜜桃啫喱在巧克力外壳下交织,香草气息引领味蕾穿越时空。【咖啡酒酿提拉米苏】则以东方酒酿替代朗姆酒,咖啡的醇厚与马斯卡彭的绵密碰撞出跨文化的火花,恰如Vivienne Westwood对多元文化的汲取与重构。【蜜瓜红丝绒马斯卡】则是以蜜瓜的果香嵌于红丝绒蛋糕的丝绒质感中,顶层以巧克力呈现出CHAOS系列标志性元素,混沌与秩序在此达成甜蜜和解。【柑橘香橙蛋糕】以尖锐酸度刺破甜腻,橙色爱心造型暗藏甜蜜宣言,成为西太后对浪漫的趣味注脚。

味觉革命:叛逆基因的甜蜜转译
首道咸点作品【华尔道夫色拉脆皮挞】以Vivienne Westwood本人的健康饮食谱为灵感, 将经典华尔道夫色拉封印于酥脆挞壳之中。 核桃的粗粝、苹果的清甜与西芹的脆爽交织, 低脂轻盈却饱含层次感。【红宝石三明治】慕斯般的绵密口感与无花果酱的天然甜润碰撞,红加仑的微酸点亮味蕾。【波士顿龙虾水蜜桃挞配鱼籽酱】中,龙虾的鲜甜与水蜜桃的清润碰撞鱼籽酱的爆裂感,在优雅中掀起味觉起义。我们特别选用遵循完整可持续生态发展体系的鱼子酱,让味觉的奢华体验与地球的可持续发展在盘中达成诗意共鸣。
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她的人生在巴黎与纽约间流转,这一双城经历深刻影响着她的创作。巴黎,这座代表传统与精湛工艺的城市,是她创意的锚点;而活力四射、大胆奔放的纽约,则推动她不断自我革新。“正是两座城市间的张力,催生了我许多创意灵感。”她如是说。作为巴黎高级定制周官方认证的不到40家品牌之一,Erziak既感殊荣亦知责任重大。在致敬传统与传承经典的同时,她始终坚守一个信念:高定的本质,是源于创造的喜悦——“我们是以创造力孕育美的艺术家。”
Erziak用三个关键词概括品牌DNA——诗意,雕塑感,深思熟虑。每件作品始于情感共鸣,礼赞人体曲线,最终成就富于深意、极致考究的艺术杰作。她心目中的缪斯大胆热烈、绽放感官魅力、忠于自我。"我为自信彰显存在感的女性而设计,"她解释道,期待源于我手的高定礼服,能赋予女性力量,让她们获得"光芒四射的自洽状态"。
对于Erziak,高定礼服的诞生之旅源于直觉——"始于一丝灵感絮语或某种情绪"——从草图绘制、面料甄选到与匠人密切合作,最终通过反复试装实现人衣对话的合一境界。“只有当礼服完美贴合穿着者时,才算真正完成。”工作室的私人试装体验因人而异、皆为量身定制的专属体验,或静谧优雅,或热烈欢庆,“这关乎直觉、专注、在场感,让女性与服装真正相遇。”她强调。
谈及最想为之设计的历史名人,Erziak列举了以艺术力量见长的约瑟芬·贝克(Joséphine Baker)、象征永恒优雅的格蕾丝·凯莉(Grace Kelly)以及深具文化共鸣的乌姆·库尔图姆(Oum Kalthoum)。而她心中永恒的缪斯,仍是母亲——“世间最优雅、高贵、光彩照人的女性”。
目前,Erziak正专注于私人客户高定项目,其创意能量还延伸至室内设计领域,包括纽约苏豪区旧糖厂改造的loft公寓,以及面朝阿特拉斯山脉的马拉喀什传统庭院。对她而言,这些空间是另一块"构筑神圣之境"的画布,印证其对美与工艺的执着追求。
Maison Lena Erziak创意总监莱娜·埃里亚克(Lena Erziak)


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Queen)"系列,带领我们步入魔法与优雅交织的冬日仙境。"冰雪女王是我心中永恒的天后,是充满魔力的时尚缪斯。"加兹扎如是说。
设计师将对这位童话女王的挚爱倾注于每一件作品,完美诠释冬季的优雅、神秘与壮美。系列中闪耀的人造皮草宛若初雪般纯净,精致的水晶刺绣与配饰则捕捉了冰凌与冻湖的灵动神韵,均由INCLOVER资深匠人手工打造,细节之处尽显极致初心。大地色亮片折射雪地湿润的光泽,朦胧轻纱勾勒雾霭氤氲的湖面,柔美粉红则预示着暮色将临的飘雪天空。珠饰与玻璃装饰的蕾丝诉说霜花的精妙,而压轴之作的新娘头冠更是以逼真冰锥造型手工打造,堪称冰雪女王的加冕之冠。"这一系列将带您走进魔幻雪夜,"加兹扎深情说道,"每一位身着INCLOVER的女性,都是自己的女王。"
谈及时尚未来,加兹扎特别强调女性的主导地位:"当代女性正以其强大的社会影响力重塑潮流与需求,重新定义审美标准。女性设计师往往更注重穿着体验,在舒适性与多功能性间寻找平衡,创造出真正源于生活的设计。不同文化背景的女性都在寻求能与自身传统、身份产生共鸣的时尚表达,这种多元需求正在拓展全球时尚的边界。"她特别指出女性主导品牌在可持续发展方面的贡献:"女性设计师始终站在道德生产的前沿,积极推动公平薪酬、工人权益等系统性变革。"通过INCLOVER,加兹扎·沙布达巴耶娃在梦幻与现实间自如穿梭,打造出既恪守责任又令人怦然心动的时尚臻品。
INCLOVER创始人兼设计师加兹扎·沙布达巴耶娃(Gaziza Shabdarbayeva)







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15:18:24";s:6:"status";s:1:"1";s:10:"publish_at";s:19:"2017-05-02 00:00:00";s:12:"unpublish_at";N;s:4:"type";s:5:"style";s:11:"luxury_news";N;s:11:"advertorial";N;s:12:"people_story";N;s:8:"top_list";s:1:"0";s:5:"title";s:51:"婚礼穿什么?写给男士的婚礼穿著指南";s:4:"deck";s:0:"";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:4770:"无论是新郎,伴郎还是婚礼嘉宾,在这个重特殊的日子里,得体的着装才能令你保持最佳状态。随着婚礼季的到来,男士该如何挑选婚礼服装?你需要以下建议。
晨礼服
晨礼服仍然是英国婚礼上被广泛接受的着装要求。这套正装由细长的人字羊毛制成的经典黑色燕尾服,搭配条纹或犬牙纹长裤、以及对比色调的单排或双排扣马甲组成。 通常保留给皇家的三件套灰色晨礼服也可以成为新郎的替代选择。

Ede&Ravenscroft
一件传统的带有可拆卸衣领的的衬衫搭配丝绸领带。裤子应该稍稍高于腰部,裤脚在鞋子的顶部,裤子前方有一条轻微的裤线,裤子的后面在鞋跟的上方。灰色或黑色的礼帽并非必需,但应始终在婚礼上携带。
黑领结(Black Tie)
黑领结在婚礼上变得越来越普遍,并会在请柬中注明。传统的黑领结由黑色高腰翻领的羊毛晚装外套,晚装长裤以及配有黑色领结的白衬衫构成。

Ede&Ravenscroft
婚礼西装
通常,对于更现代的或城市婚礼而言,西装是晨礼服的替代品,有各种颜色和面料的选择。外套的款式是个人喜好,单排双扣或三扣外套是最受欢迎的选项。新郎可能希望在造型中有更多的乐趣,也许会通过不同的翻领形状或口袋细节来进行个性化选择。

彩色,深蓝色,中灰色和木炭色是最安全和最通用的颜色,但不要害怕根据您的个人品味,风格和婚礼主题来玩色调。布料的类型也是一个重要的考虑因素,较浅色调的棉和亚麻布,为目的地婚礼或夏季婚礼提供了更多的选择。
Ede&Ravenscroft
配件饰品
晨礼服的衬衫应该有一个厚重的衣领,如果衬衫衣领比较简单,则可以搭配婚礼西装。平扣或法式扣是个人的选择,但衬衫袖口应该不超过西装或礼服的袖口半英寸。
婚礼马甲也有穿着规范,如果穿双排扣马甲,则底部按钮应保持松开。他们应该舒适地位于腰带之上,完全遮盖衬衫。许多新郎喜欢穿着不同颜色的马甲,以脱颖而出,参加婚礼派对的其他环节。
当涉及到正装鞋类时,请保持简洁而优雅,搭配经典的牛津鞋,就像Sweeney系带鞋,或者是适合于黑领结或白领结的Overton专利鞋。
优雅的饰品配件是个性化您的婚礼外观的轻松方式。从豪华的丝绸领带,到经典的口袋巾,以及独特的袖扣,都能为你的婚礼装扮增色不少。
《尚流TATLER》的小建议:
- 与新娘一起检查配色方案!
- 不要比婚礼派对更正式。如有疑问,请在邀请函上查看着装要求。
- 不要解开双排扣晚礼服。
- 晨礼服下摆应该到膝关节。
- 不要在最后一刻才定做西装
如果想寻求独一无二的精美套装,你可以尝试Ede&Ravenscroft的量身定做或个人定制服务:
Ede&Ravenscroft是伦敦最古老的服装店,并在1689年获得了第一个皇家委认状,当时被委托制作威廉和玛丽加冕的长袍。 Ede&Ravenscroft致力于提供建立了其声誉的传统价值观,持有三个皇家授权,并为世界各地的男士和女士制作优质的服装。
量身定做:Ede&Ravenscroft 的裁缝将为你量体裁衣,手工制作精美独特的服装,完美贴合您的个人风格。
个人定制:在技术顾问的指导下,你以选择广泛的布料,饰面和款式,为自己定制与众不同的西装。
详询:www.edeandravenscroft.com
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Ball史上最难主题!";s:4:"deck";s:56:"90后投资人余晚晚受邀出席并享受最高礼遇";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:3921:"素有“时尚奥斯卡”之称的Met Ball(又称Met Gala)于美国时间5月1日晚在纽约大都会举行。作为每年5月初最受期待的时尚盛世,Met Ball永远能吸引到各界名流、明星、时尚人士、超模出席。

Met Ball是纽约大都市艺术博物馆时装馆每年都会举办的慈善晚宴。除了到场嘉宾以外,每年Met Ball最受关注的莫过于它独特的着装主题。主办方会提前公布着装主题,明星名流则会根据这个主题选择相应的着装。
2015年的Met Ball主题是“镜花水月”。这一颇具中国风的主题舞会,也邀请到了有史以来最多的中国明星。
今年,Anna Wintour又增加了主题难度,今年的主题是:Rei Kawakubo 川久保玲。这位今年已经75岁的设计大师,影响了时尚界将近40多年!
她以激进的“反时尚态度”著称。她的设计也如同她的时装态度一样,是让人敬仰却看不懂的存在。
果然,在这一有史以来最难的主题影响下,今年的红毯可谓精彩纷呈。

水果姐Katy Perry一看就是有在认真答题

巴西国宝级超模吉赛尔·邦辰,一身银色露背晚礼服,窈窕曲线尽显
到场的中国明星,杨幂和刘雯,也是表现不俗


除了到场的中国明星以外,还有一位独特的中国女孩,她就是余晚晚Wendy Yu。

与大多明星由品牌邀请不同,余晚晚本次以时尚科技投资人、Met 博物馆的赞助人以及青年慈善家的身份,由美版Vogue主编以及Met Gala主席Anna Wintour亲自邀请出席舞会。
作为Anna Wintour亲邀的嘉宾,她还享受了Met Ball的最高礼遇——由Anna Wintour的团队以及美版Vogue高层亲自为她挑选礼服,安排在Vogue US的总部试衣,试衣过程中美版Vogue Fashion Director Tonne Goodman以及市场部总监Virginia Smith 全程陪同,获得了以往任何中国明星都没有受到过的重视和礼遇。当晚,Anna还安排了德国公主Elisabeth Von Thurn Und Taxis 陪伴余晚晚出席Met Gala。



作为国内(包括港澳台地区)目前为止第一位也是唯一一位受Anna Wintour本人邀请参加Met Ball的90后女孩,余晚晚一身露肩鱼尾裙,大气中带着些许甜美。礼服来自美国新锐设计师Zac Posen,珠宝出自著名高级珠宝设计师Anna Hu胡茵菲之手。

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Weekend)于4月14日精彩亮相上海展览中心,为期三天的首创“浸入式”时尚狂欢活动终于揭开神秘面纱。本次活动顺应大众消费结构升级的趋势,以青年一代的全新“体验”为理念,力邀时尚、音乐、艺术大咖助阵,革新地将时装秀场、买手圣地、交互文化艺术展等创意结合,在拉近时尚和年轻消费者距离的同时,打造整合产品、内容和服务为一体的生活方式大IP,邀请全民齐“浸 Fashion”,连续三天每天9小时即看即买即秀玩转时尚。黄晓明,姚晨,张亮,奚梦瑶,苏芒,冯楚轩等明星以及业内大咖都纷纷为活动点赞。

由左⾄右领导及嘉宾:上海市商务委员会市场体系建设处处⻓周岚、奚梦瑶、Lyn Slater、上海市静安区副区⻓周海鹰、上海时装周组委会副主任/上海市商务委员会副主任刘敏、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、上海市静安区商务委员会主任任少南
国内外明星大咖助阵,陪你一起“浸 Fashion”
时尚周末携手各界明星和大咖,为沪上热爱时尚的年轻群体,奉献一场世界顶级水平的先锋的“浸入式”展览和时尚狂欢,各界明星大咖更是以全新形式,和大众互动:
64岁的银发博主Lyn Slater将在Fashion Lab这一全方位交流平台中,提出了自己的主张——时尚即为你的生活态度,永远没有为时过晚一说。她通过分享自己的故事,用国际的视角阐述“时尚为⼈民服务”这一理念;魔都潮⼈李怡霖也将向观众述说其“亚文化”纹身的故事;网红“鼻祖”陈星如更将在此畅谈其网红进化史;著名歌手袁娅维不仅带来现场表演,更聊起音乐背后的故事。国际超模奚梦瑶,也亲身体验“浸入式”跨界合作,于时尚周末首发其携手携程的跨界设计作品,并亲临现场和到场观众亲密互动。

由左⾄右嘉宾:永柏盛业影视基⾦管理合伙人马骏、奚梦瑶、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、中润基⾦总裁齐英

银发时尚博主Lyn Slater
国内外知名时尚品牌和新秀设计师加盟,即秀即买过足“买手”瘾
国际著名时装设计师MASHA MA带来最新MASHAMA X LOFi 17秋冬系列,让普通大众也能感受国际时装周头排看秀的体验,融入了CyberPunk科技感廓形和材质的设计作品,也呈现出千禧一代推崇个性和冒险的精神态度,也使时尚大秀真真正正地“为⼈民服务”。


作为中国第一家专业的Showroom,时堂携手时尚周末,不仅带领设计师和品牌试水直面消费者市场,还让大众过把“时尚买手”瘾。鹦鹉螺市集和意大利买手制百货COSCIA带来的一线大牌惊喜低价,切实直观地让时尚为人民服务这一理念的落地开花。
时尚是艺术的一部分,而艺术则是生活的一种形式。上海时尚周末通过一系列活动,激发普通人对于时尚的思考、对美好生活的向往和对未来的期待,这种自上而下的思考和参与,正是“时尚为⼈民服务”的内涵所在。

浸入式的文化艺术盛宴,将“生活艺术化”落地开花
为了呈现一场全方位的时尚感官盛宴,各界艺术家也纷纷“各显神通”,令广大看客不虚此⾏:作为两度斩获格莱美奖的音乐家,Dana Leong与国际知名品牌、艺⼈广泛开展合作,此次也积极加入到时尚周末,更是要和沪上的年轻大众“合作”——通过百⼈冥想的Work-Shop,传达他对时尚周末“浸入式”观点的认同:任何文化艺术形式,只有大众的亲身参与,才能拥有更大的能量和意义。
艺术家宋洋携其艺术作品形象“Bad Girl”也倾力加入上海时尚周末,展现新自由主义的生活态度,和自我且主见的女性先锋认知。
除此之外,各类“浸入式”惊喜9小时不间断,大大提高了活动的趣味性和参与度:DJ音乐狂欢、近距离接触芝麻街卡通巨型⼈偶、交换神秘面具、免费领养多肉植物,更有拳击互动体验、助力公益事业。



时尚周末将时尚元素从其固有环境中剥离,从参观者体验的角度出发,一方面还原时装设计的人文和社会属性,另一方面赋予参观者体会和掌握时尚脉动的力量,挑战每个人的时尚理念乃至时尚消费方式。
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听李晓玲艺述美好";s:4:"deck";s:549:"她出生于贵族世家,多年旅居法国,并游走世界各地捕获艺术灵感;她敏感而富有爱心,常年关注慈善教育;她树立了独特鲜明的个人风格,备受品牌青睐,成为艺术文化传播的使者;她闪亮耀眼,出现在时尚
杂志里的次数并不亚于明星…… 著名艺术家李晓玲由内而外地散发着名流气息,曾经的荣誉和成就在她身上凝聚成一种沉淀过后的淡然之美。常年在世界各地到处行走,让她更加珍惜在每一个地方的时光。";s:6:"author";s:27:"《尚流TATLER》四月刊";s:7:"content";s:10604:"在李晓玲最近的一条朋友圈中,她写道:“如果你只是等待,发生的事情只会是你变老了。”从最早以“京城四大名媛”之一的身份出现在大众的视野中,至今多年的时光中,她一直都没有停下自己探索世界和发现自我的脚步。作为一名女性艺术家,李晓玲将自己的触角延伸到世界,在生活感悟中汲取艺术灵感。她行走各地,在思想意识上彻底敞开自己,与不同的人和建筑对话,将每次的感悟凝练在自己的绘画中。
艺术让人自由并富有力量
多年前,李晓玲旅居法国,她乐此不疲地参观各大美术馆和画廊的展览,发现西方的油画作品和东方的水墨画之间迥异的差别。她所坚持的水墨画意境看似很简洁,却是中华5000年历史文化的沉淀。李晓玲开始将东方的哲学思想结合西方的绘画材料进行创作,这条国际化的艺术之路,让更多的西方人了解到东方文化艺术的智慧,李晓玲的创新艺术风格从而也被称为“新古典主义”。而这种传统文化与现代技法的相融,在她看来只是艺术的一种技法和表现形式,艺术家最重要的还是要多去观察和感受,然后真实地表达自我思想和意识,包括对人、对环境、对社会及对未来的思考。
多年艺术创作的坚持和沉淀,使得李晓玲获得过诸多奖项,其中不乏“意大利但丁荣誉勋章”、入选《世界华人艺术家成就大典》等殊荣。在这众多的成就中,李晓玲更看重的是这些称号背后的公平和专业性,行业大奖的鼓励和认可更坚定了她自己的艺术使命,使她成为一个不断完善自我的女性。艺术带给了李晓玲无限的力量,就像她一直强调的独立女性理想:“做一个独立的女人首先要思想独立,有主见、有自己的人生观、价值观;有上进心,永远不放弃自己的理想;做一份自己喜爱的事业,拥有快乐和成就感。自由建立在一定的经济基础之上,实现经济上的独立,从而掌控自己的命运和未来,不依赖男人、自强自立的女人才更自信,更有人格魅力!”
马背上的艺术与生活
在李晓玲的艺术作品中, 马是她尤为喜爱的一个创作元素。她经常骑马,观察马的眼睛和身形,用自己的方式和独有的艺术语言来描绘心中的马。在她看来,马不仅外形健美,其坚毅的精神更让人动容,马天生就是为奔跑而生的。这种对马的无限热衷和种种渊源,还使得她获得了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的“驭马锋尚大使”称号。
回忆起3年前第一次在上海观看赛马的经历,李晓玲依然记忆犹新。她参与的CHC所主持的第一个CECF驭马文化节的公益项目称为“马被上的艺术”,CHC首开先河,创意地把马被与现代艺术画作结合。马被一般会披在冠军马的身上,而艺术画作被复制于马被上,于赛事日前一晚进行慈善拍卖,充分发挥了其艺术的社会价值。当马赛当天,冠军马跑完全程来到李晓玲的身边,全身湿透的样子让她感到极为震撼——马背上披着她亲手绘制的冠军艺术毯,还带着兴奋的眼神。李晓玲第一次在动物身上发现那样的眼神和气质,几乎和一个意志坚定的人没什么区别,这让她更加喜欢和欣赏马,更深入地去了解马的身份和角色。
隔年,李晓玲再次受邀参与2015 CECF新加坡驭马文化节的慈善鸡尾酒会,在新加坡地标之一的滨海湾金沙艺术科学博物馆内,与其他5位来自中国、法国及爱尔兰的艺术家们共同展示了约20件的艺术作品,并在当晚作慈善拍卖。而恰巧在2015 CECF新加坡驭马文化节举办前夕,她也获得CHC的大力支持,赞助了她在法国巴黎小皇宫举办的个展《面怀美好2》,部分在新加坡展出的画作就是从法国个展结束后空运而至的。2016年鄂尔多斯国际驭马文化节上,她还策划邀请了其他四位画家无偿贡献个人珍藏画作参与慈善拍卖,所得善款均用于支持中国残疾人联合会及高校的人才培养。
谈起与CHC杰士马主俱乐部的结缘, 李晓玲感慨万分:“我在一个机缘巧合的情况下认识了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的创始人张祖德主席。张主席是一位非常具有远见卓识及魄力的绅士。我记得张主席曾经告诉我说,他的父亲在离世前曾经叮咛他,若有一天他在事业上有所成就后,一定要回到祖国贡献其力量。同时,张主席也是一名著名的建筑设计师,毕业于美国哈佛大学,他在2010年的时候在迪拜完成了世界最大、最奢华的赛马场——迈丹赛马场;由此张主席看到了国内马产业巨大的发展空间及与国际接轨上的距离,所以促使他带着本身的专业回到他父亲的故土,希望能够以自己的绵力贡献力量。这让我为之震动及钦佩。” 与慈善及艺术文化结合一直是CHC所推崇的,通过CHC杰士马主俱乐部基金会致力于推动中国赛马产业的发展:与国内高校合作;增进中国年轻骑师人才的技能培训和发展;帮助有特殊需要的孩童;为他们提供机遇平台与资金扶持。这种大爱的精神,更加坚定了李晓玲投身其中的决心,这在她看来是非常有意义和价值的,也是她特别愿意去做的事情。
“王者运动”带来的格局和质感
在李晓玲的印象中,速度赛马在西方国家是一个已经融入社会的文化象征,像闻名世界的英国爱斯科特赛马嘉年华、澳大利亚墨尔本杯及美国育马者杯等盛事,已经不全然只是一个赛马运动而已。每年,因赛场上的美食、时尚、慈善活动慕名而来的观众不胜枚举,俨然形成了一个城市甚至是国家的品牌号召力。CHC杰士马主俱乐部所发起的CECF驭马文化节,先后连续四年在内蒙古呼和浩特、内蒙古鄂尔多斯、上海、湖北武汉及新加坡盛大举办。李晓玲参与了每一届的驭马文化节,伴随着四年来驭马文化节不断的成长和进展,她感受到马场上文娱时尚的优雅气息。在她看来,赛马不仅仅只是一项运动,更是一种深层次、高品质生活风尚的呈现。
自成为CHC驭马锋尚大使后,李晓玲更加深入地了解到速度赛马世界的广阔天地和更高格局,并有机会结识了各界翘楚精英,同时她也借以艺术的力量,推动速度赛马运动的传播。“众所周知,速度赛马是一项‘王者运动’,一直以来得到许多王室成员与上流社会的喜爱。赛马场上所展现的速度激情、华美的时尚和千金难买的胜利感觉,无不让生活变得更加有质感。通过CHC,我更深刻地认识到,这除了是一个让人着迷的运动之外,也是一个具有商业价值的投资。CHC的种马基金为有志趣相投的人提供一个入场通道,为投资者们带来有吸引力的投资模式。”李晓玲如是说。艺术来源于生活,CHC不同主题的会员活动给了李晓玲体验生活的无限可能性:“在私享晚宴上,汇聚各方好友一起交流分享,这也丰富了我的社交生活;除此之外,CHC也组织观摩团,到世界各地参与顶级的赛马盛事,这也打开了我的视野。因为作为一名艺术家,尽情体验生活,细心观察事物,才能创作出好的作品。”
艺术引路人
去年,李晓玲曾为一个驻留儿童的公益学校教课,她甚至还自己设计了一套教材和教学方法。开始她一直在思考从6岁到12岁的年龄跨度,怎么样的教课和沟通方式才会让这些孩子更能接受和开心。真正到课堂上之后,李晓玲跟孩子们就像朋友一样地相处,她真诚地尊重和关注每一个孩子的心理。这种沟通方式带给李晓玲很多的感悟:“即使这些孩子们的性格迥异,有内向也有外向,但他们下课都会围在我身边,问我什么时候才能再回去给他们上课。这说明我至少还算是比较受欢迎的老师,欣慰之余我获得了极大的满足和开心,我认为真正的快乐是帮助了别人,他们传达给你的信息会让人更开心、更难忘。”
在这个过程中,李晓玲同时深切感受到:绘画创作中的想象力,对孩子来说非常重要。小时候如果能受到艺术上的熏陶可以帮助他们开发创造意识,养成创造的习惯之后,才可以真正地创造自己的未来,改变自己的命运和生活,如果能帮助他们获取更多的创造能力和意识,对于他们的未来是具有引导性的。目前她最大的心愿,是把自己所知道的绘画技能,教给更多的年轻人,特别是贫困山区的孩子。“我觉得慈善是做好一个引路人,让他们自己去创造未来、改变生活。”五一劳动节后,李晓玲会继续到贫困山区,用自己的方式教小朋友画画。她想亲眼看到在自己的引导下,孩子们的意识和创造力可以得到多大的改变。她甚至决定将此作为一种研究,会一直坚持做这件事情。
同时,作为一位女性艺术家,继续举办全球性的个人展览之余,关注中国乃至全球女性的她还有另外一个计划:成立一个全球杰出女性俱乐部,帮助更多女性在平台上有更多交流和合作。去年在法国的时候,她遇到很多当地的创业女性,希望把她们设计的作品推广到中国,但苦于没有途径。“如果有了这个平台,她们就很容易找到可以合作的人。虽然我是中国的艺术家,但如果这能帮助到全球更多的女性,将是我非常开心的事情。”
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吴亦凡佩戴 Octo Finissomo Automatic出席宝格丽新品发布会


吴亦凡与 Jean-Christophe Babin, Jon Kortajarena出席宝格丽新品发布会

吴亦凡出席全球媒体见面会


吴亦凡观赏宝格丽腕表新品展

吴亦凡与宝格丽CEO Jean-Christophe Babin

宝格丽 Octo Finissomo Automatic腕表


宝格丽全新 Serpenti系列腕表

宝格丽全新 Serpenti系列腕表

宝格丽 Octo Roma腕表

宝格丽 Octo Roma腕表
吴亦凡以宝格丽品牌代言人的身份亮相宝格丽全球新品发布会。作为此次巴塞尔表展首位亮相的重磅明星,他佩戴宝格丽最受瞩目、打破超薄自动机械腕表世界纪录的Octo Finissomo Automatic出席此次发布会,薄而不简,尽显八面绅士风度,超高人气引起全场轰动。
发布会上,吴亦凡与宝格丽CEO Jean-Christophe Babin先生、宝格丽品牌代言人吴亦凡、Jon Kortajarena、Jasmine Sanders, Caroline Vreeland 和Laura Harrier一同揭幕全新腕表作品。
在宝格丽全球媒体早餐会上,吴亦凡身着绅士白色斗篷佩戴全新Octo Roma腕表亮相,并接受中外媒体的采访。说到作为宝格丽代言人的感受,他说:“创新、多变却永不丧失的个性,这正是我与宝格丽的契合之处。”来自罗马的百年品牌和东方新生代之间火花碰撞,演绎经典亦有新生。
随后,吴亦凡饶有兴趣地观赏起陈列其中的新品腕表系列,流连在Octo, Serpenti, LVCEA,BVLGARI BVLAGRI等系列新品之中,秒杀众多菲林。
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古驰全新的Neo Vintage系列包袋以充满诗意的奇幻旅程为灵感,融合品牌经典的GG Supreme印花图案,并加入创作总监亚力山卓·米开理(Alessandro Michele)独特的古驰花园设计元素,用标志性的个人风格与浪漫怀旧的意趣将传统的旅行包袋打造成独属于当代旅者的精神象征。
旅行不是简单的时空转移,而是两个时空节点的碰撞迸发出的无限可能。旅行更像是人类的本能,执迷的精神本质便来源于此,带上将经典重新诠释的Neo Vintage系列包袋,随着奇趣刺绣拼贴图案与装饰性细节踏上文艺旅程,探索美学秘境,以独到的当代旅者视角呈现多元化的自我风格。
古驰Neo Vintage系列包袋覆面超细纤维面料,搭配品牌标志性的绿红绿织带条纹滚边,诠释当代旅者风范。经典雅致的外表透露出勇敢无畏的内心,骷髅图案的细节则象征着潇洒不羁的态度。自古以来海上探险标志着一个时代的开始,交织着现实幻境的灵魂之旅迎风起航,将探索的神奇魅力注入精神世界。探索与发现的过程也让旅者不断挑战自我拓宽认知,如双G网格般将旅程点滴紧密衔接,罗织出记忆深处的动人故事。
穿越时空的奇幻旅程与浪漫复古的文艺美学构成了古驰2017春夏系列的主题,而这两种概念的融合则在Neo Vintage系列旅行包袋中得到了巧妙诠释。灵蛇与花朵象征着旅途中美和智慧的体验,不管是纹理细致的鸵鸟皮还是柔软奢华的麂皮,不同的材质均体现着对自我风格更加个性化的表述。启程意味着新的开始,回归则代表着过去与未来的衔接,经历变化重获新生的过程,起与终相互衔接;正如Neo Vintage系列所强调的复古格调与当代精神,两个时空维度的交叉带来了全新的魅力蜕变。
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来自瑞士日内瓦的著名腕表和珠宝品牌 de Grisogono,由拥有30年设计高级珠宝的品牌负责人及设计师 Fawaz Gruosi 先生于1996年创立。我们特地专访到这个华丽时尚与工艺精细并重的品牌灵魂-设计师Fawaz,谈谈品牌大胆的创意以及闻名的黑钻,与对高贵品味与奢华追求的坚持。
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毫无疑问,邓永锵先生是天生的企业家。他开创了中国传统服装品牌“上海滩”,他是“中国会”俱乐部的创始人,同时也是古巴雪茄Cohiba在加拿大,亚洲和澳大利亚的独家分销商。这个演说讲述了他从白手起家创业一步步成立大型跨国公司的历程。点开它,你会因此受巨大启发。
Lori Granito是香港最早的烹饪品牌Kitchen Sync的创始人,也是墨西哥餐厅Little Burro的联合创始人。在他的演讲中,她围绕着失败这个话题探讨为什么创业总是意味着失败,怎样理解失败是成功之母,还有她究竟通过何种努力从失败走向成功的一系列解答。
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李駿傑教你如何有效沟通,这样你就能改变他人,并对你的受众产生影响。他作为演讲教练训练了许多商界领袖,所以他总是知道自己该说什么。他也是一位成功的播客和畅销书《表达的领袖》的作者。
酷女孩Juliette Gimenez面对焦虑和恐惧一笑而过。作为另一类企业家,她有许多经历想要分享。作为Goxip的联合创始人和现任CEO,她谈到如何“振作”并直面恐惧,迎难而上,认为这是生活中不可避免的一部分。
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艾伦的《午夜巴塞罗那》令成千上万的游客慕名造访这座具有魔幻色彩的热情城市,随剧中场景(以及手上的地图)来此观光。其中有些人甚至曾有念头闪过脑海,幻想自己将在这里发生艳遇。当然,比较实际会发生的事情,还是品尝美味的西班牙海鲜饭,欣赏一段弗拉门戈舞,参观毕加索博物馆(门口购票队伍非常长,最好提前预约),以及,入住一间别具风味的奢华酒店。
下榻棉之屋酒店
棉之屋酒店(The Cotton House)这座于19世纪建成的地标建筑,曾是棉花生产商协会(Association of Cotton House Manufacturers)的总部。酒店的室内设计由屡获殊荣的西班牙室内设计师Lázaro Rosa-Violán重新设计,并在2015年1月完工。酒店于古典奢华的氛围中呈献舒适精致的现代体验。风格含蓄而华丽,在保留原本面貌的同时,更增添了色彩缤纷的现代艺术品与典雅装饰。
许多旅客会在低头从包里翻找护照准备check in时,被那古典风格的镶木地板所吸引,那是许多新式酒店难以仿造或复制的时间之诗。而当你办完入住手续,转身准备上楼时,一抬头,肯定会在瞬间被那雕花天花板震慑。天花板的雕绘受米开朗基罗杰作如梵蒂冈西斯汀教堂内的壁画所影响,充满华丽庄严的细腻格调。空间中亦陈列着摩登的现代艺术展品,与古色古香、光线充足的图书馆。经典与前卫展开奇妙的对话,为来访旅人催化出时光凝冻的情怀,也为这间酒店呈现出清新脱俗的品位。
几乎所有住过棉之屋酒店的人们,当回忆起这段难忘时光时,最先忆起的,会是位于酒店心脏、垂直贯穿这座建筑的古老螺旋形楼梯。这个造于1957年的精妙结构,宛如无尽延伸的纽带,通往神圣的穹顶,令人情不自禁地将手搭上扶把,如古堡探秘般拾级回旋而上。除了美得令人屏息的建筑, 极致贴心的服务,这间五星级酒店之所以深受旅游达人青睐,还有3个重要原因,那就是:location、location、location !酒店位于巴塞罗那市中心的Eixample区,距离城中最著名的购物中心Passeig de Gràcia大街仅有300米之遥。当然,购物恐怕不会是人们来到巴塞罗那的主要任务。住在这里的好处是,宾客可轻松步行前往参观建筑师高迪的代表作米拉公寓(La Pedrera), 巴特洛公寓(Casa Batlló)和圣家堂(Sagrada Familia)。
如果你对自己的方向感实在没信心,不妨报名由礼宾部组织的私人文化游。行程包括欣赏历史悠久的加泰罗尼亚新艺术风格珠宝,以及参观—联合国教科文组织遗产——高迪修建的教堂地下室。既然来到如此热情洋溢的城市,想感受速度与激情的你,也可以参加迷你Cambrio车驾驶体验,享受地中海风带来的无尽浪漫。
味蕾与灵魂的礼赞
作为傲途格精选酒店(万豪国际酒店集团旗下的特色酒店品牌)的一员,棉之屋酒店不仅在外观装饰上独树一帜,更提供了多样别具人文气息的礼宾服务,与风味精致的餐饮选择,因此荣获了著名国际旅馆协会Les Clefs d'Or颁发的“金钥匙”奖。既然以“棉”为名,当然不免令人联想到天然舒适的织品。的确,这里曾是巴塞罗那裁缝和衬衫制造商为协会成员量度尺寸的地点。如今,酒店亦请来城中最负盛名的裁缝店Santa Eulalia,为宾客提供专业手工缝制服务。
此外,83间精品客房和5间套房,室内设计灵感均源自棉花,以简约大方的白、黑和棕三色为主色调。客房名字取自纺织品,以高档现代设施奉上纯棉般舒适体验。酒店配备300支埃及棉床单、600克重毛巾以及产自地中海的Ortigia纯天然化妆品。
如果你在夏日时光造访,肯定会想到顶楼的户外游泳池享受日光浴。而位于一侧的Mayan Spa 水疗中心,更是释放旅途疲惫的绝佳选择。虽说巴塞罗那街上的美食不少,但既然下榻于此,一定要尝尝酒店里Batuar餐厅的特色鸡尾酒,与地道正宗的现代西班牙风味美食。
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Wouter Aarts and Michael Sun

黄伯伦和荀为华
丙申岁末,法国美食会中国区的年度晚宴回到了暌违已久的上海明天万豪酒店,此次的主题也是非常有趣的皇家赌场007。活动以授勋仪式开场,此次授勋由法国美食会中国区会长黄伯伦主持。多位美食美酒爱好者们在黄会长的带领下宣誓对美食艺术和会员情谊的忠诚,并接受授勋。众多海外会员们也盛装捧场。
林栋甫、张文倩和李京伦
曾钱惟真、潘小小和曾志明
Silvio Rosenberger and Julia Rosenberger
何平南和夏台凤
主办方上海明天万豪酒店给来宾们带来了惊喜,随后的鸡尾酒会和晚宴以皇家赌场007为主题,来宾们纷纷手持道具手枪拍照,炫酷无比。是日的美食与美酒亦令大家交口称赞。晚宴过后,在现场乐队的伴奏下,大家即兴起舞,将欢乐延续至午夜时分。
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惊叹!原来时尚也能如此环保?";s:4:"deck";s:306:"伴随着时尚更迭的速度越来越快,时装行业给整个环境带来的不良影响也愈加受到人们关注,刚刚结束的《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德:复兴生活》展将目光聚焦于时尚与环保之间千丝万缕的联系,也再一次提醒我们绿色时尚的迫在眉睫。";s:6:"author";s:28:"《尚流TATLER》三月刊 ";s:7:"content";s:23891:"
Stella McCartney以再生羊绒制作服装
谈到环境污染,我们可能第一时间联想到工业化污染、汽车尾气等,但你是否知道,我们每日所穿的服装对于环境造成的负面影响也不可小觑。时尚行业越来越蓬勃的发展,也加速了资源消耗和环境污染。
一方面,服装从生产到售卖的每一个环节都对环境产生负面影响,在印度,因皮革加工排放废料,导致很多以河水为生的居民中毒;乌兹别克斯坦和哈萨克斯坦因大量种植棉花供应服装业,已令咸海水量减少15%,亚马孙雨林遭到破坏也与服装原料有关。不夸张地说,时装行业对于环境的污染极有可能是世界上数一数二的。另一方面,随着潮流更迭速度的越来越快,和过去相比,服装的寿命大大缩短,每个人每一季购买的服装越多,家里闲置的衣服也越多。英国记者露西· 斯格尔曾出版过一本名为《梦寐以求:时装正在耗尽地球资源?》的书籍,她结合调查资料、统计数据和历史档案,在书中指出了时尚行业对环境触目惊心的危害,例如其中的一些数据显示,根据英国剑桥大学的研究,全球每年生产800 亿件衣服,光英国每年就有200 万件被扔进了垃圾堆;英国平均每位女性每年购买衣物的重量约达28 千克,相当于女性平均体重的一半,很多人衣柜里没穿过的衣服有20 件;当代人购买服装的数量是80 年代的4 倍。
毋庸置疑,推进时装产业的可持续运作和绿色发展正是所有有社会责任的时尚品牌和设计师们最为关切的问题。
Vivienne Westwood在巴顿莫斯气候营地
地球的限度
2009年,斯德哥尔摩回复力研究中心(Stockholm Resilience Centre)的一组科学家提出9项他们认为对地球很重要的指标,以及这些指标的上限,包括气候变迁、生物多样性、氮循环、磷循环、海洋酸化、悬浮微粒污染、化学物污染、臭氧层的消失、淡水使用以及森林砍伐与土地使用变更,这些指标共同组成了名为“地球限度”的地球系统框架核心概念,它定义了“人类所需的安全生存空间”,并被各个组织和国家视为可持续发展的先决条件。开云集团刚刚发布的可持续报告中表明,其为奢侈品制定了符合“地球限度”的全新可持续发展理念,制定了2025年发展目标,并确立在该年限前达到的里程碑。开云集团董事会主席兼首席执行官François-Henri Pinault表示将在可持续发展方面不遗余力:“集团的战略方针展示了我们在未来重新定义业务并持续发展的方式,与此同时,它还能为整个奢侈品行业带来变革,使我们更好地应对这一代人所面临的重要的社会与环境挑战。”
除了在生产、销售的所有环节进行绿色优化和提升, 时尚领域的许多有责任心的品牌同样也助力许多环保组织,以此向社会传达和扩散保护环境的影响力。例如爱马仕一直致力于传递热爱自然、崇敬万物的价值观,并多次积极倡导绿色的环保理念。它于去年首次启动慈善丝巾项目,推出特别版90厘米斜纹真丝方巾—— 桃红色“森林之主”。近日,它将该系列丝巾所得净收入全部捐赠于中国绿色碳汇基金会,致力于推进植树造林、森林经营、减少毁林和其他相关的增汇减排活动。此前,Kenzo也与海洋保护专家——蓝色海洋基金会形成了高度紧密的合作伙伴关系,把对海洋污染、过度捕捞及海洋生物破坏的抵制作为共同使命,为支持蓝色海洋基金会所作出的各种努力,Kenzo推出了一系列带有“No Fish No Nothing”标语的中性卫衣与T恤,将销售所得全部用于基金会保护全球海洋环境的事业。而在蓝色海洋基金会联合创始人兼理事Chris Gorell Barnes看来,时尚也是最有力的传播方式之一,通过这种渠道可以向更广阔的人群传达保护海洋的必要性以及保护鱼类可持续补给的重要性。
Kenzo与蓝色海洋基金会合作款服装
环保行动家
前不久,在Chi K11美术馆举办的全球首个中国当代艺术跨界时尚环保年度大展《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德:复兴生活》(Vivienne Westwood: Get A Life)刚刚于2月底闭幕,Vivienne通过照片、录像及时装等立体手法,全方位呈现了她的生活工作和艺术创作,引领大众解读其从知名时装设计师延伸至社会行动家在对生态环境的关注和环保领域中的不懈努力,同时也呼吁人们关注自己所生存的世界和自己的行为对生存环境所造成的影响,传达“为自己及为我们的下一代获得更好的生活”的信息。作为时尚环保的先锋人物,Vivienne向来反对过度消费,她提醒大家购物要注重质量而非数量,注意物品的耐用性,时刻秉持有“低碳可持续”的环保理念,同时,她也积极参与绿色运动,号召名人参与拯救北极的计划,又与International Trade Centre(国际贸易总行)合作,借生产手袋之机支持边缘化的非洲小区妇女自力更生。现场有众多富于代表性的装置与极具视觉冲击力的场景,令你亲身置于Vivienne身为社会行动家的世界之中。陈列在展厅内的最新Vivienne Westwood时装系列展示了她如何将社会、环保活动直接呈现在时装秀台;移步至她手绘的“生命之树”下感受地球的召唤;放眼于“气温上升5度之地图”前浏览由英国员佐勋章获得者安迪·格慈(Andy Gotts)拍摄的60位参与到“守护北极绿色和平运动” 的名人义士影像;或拿起自己的“武器”来到“气候革命”现场为改善生态环境而战!正如Vivienne曾表示:“这是一场捍卫人类生存、捍卫地球的战争。我们最重要的‘武器’是公众舆论:去艺术画廊吧,去理解这个世界。一旦你开始这样做,你就是一个自由战士。”
这次的展览引起了广泛的关注,不仅是因为其环保时尚的独特理念,同时,此次展览还特别为了向Vivienne Westwood的时尚环保精神致敬,策划了以Duo Therapy为主题的首次跨界系列活动,Duo的含义即将Eco-friendliness (环保)和Fashion(时尚)两个概念有机结合在一起进行创作。以环保材料、环保穿搭、环保理念多维度立体论证,力邀多位资深设计师、时尚权威人士的加盟,并从环保时尚作品展示、主题讲座论坛及设计竞赛3方面引发大众对时尚、艺术与环保的讨论热潮。
时尚的环保责任
除了生产、运输和销售流程,时尚品牌的环保革命还不止于此,它们将环保理念渗透于每一个细小的方面,甚至在店铺或工厂的建筑设计中,也力求保护环境。
Saint Laurent :绿色建筑白金认证
Saint Laurent以全新店铺概念装潢的三家精品店——巴黎圣奥诺雷路街38号、洛杉矶比佛利山罗迪欧大道326号以及伦敦邦德街 32号获得美国 LEED绿色建筑白金认证,是全球首家获得 LEED白金认证的奢侈品牌。三家认证店铺均凭借创新与可持续发展模式降低耗水量、优化能源效率以及提高室内空气质量。罗迪欧大道精品店自2014年重新开业以来,已降低了 57%的能源损耗。
Bottega Veneta :新建筑与较大改造建筑认证铂金奖
Bottega Veneta位于 Montebello Vicentino的新工作室在2009年获得了LEED新建筑与较大改造建筑认证,工作室于2013年9月正式开业,所处大楼占地55,000平方米,是一处受意大利环境遗产局保护的历史建筑。在改造这一原有别墅时,保持现存的建筑结构是最为重要的议题,超过 75% 的原有材料得到重新利用。在建筑材料的利用上也运用了相同的方法:例如离建筑现场最近的地点采购材料,决定仅使用森林管理委员会指定的木料,对废品进行了细致的分类。从设计到实施的各个流程均根据 ISO14001 能源系统控制程序进行,运用景观美化别墅四周的地面时,Bottega Veneta 保留了原有的植被,且仅使用了获得许可的材料和植物。
再造衣银行发布以“重生”为主题的全新系列
再造与重生
在《薇薇安· 威斯特伍德:复兴生活》展览的各个环节,它邀请了众多拥有环保理念的时尚设计师共同参与时尚与环保的议题,其中,“再造衣银行(Reclothing Bank)”的创始人及设计师张娜因其最新系列在国内的首场精彩发布而引人注目。与一般的时装发布会不同,这场以“重生”为主题的发布会,所有制衣面料均来源于人们捐出的旧衣和其他时尚品牌的库存,通过张娜的重新设计和利用,升级并焕发出新的活力,如同得到了“重生”。
张娜看到了时尚快速发展所带来的资源浪费的弊端,面对人们大量弃用的旧衣服,她希望借助再造衣银行这个项目令它们可以循环再生成为新的时尚。在张娜看来,每一种物料的原生形态都值得尊重,她所做的再造不仅需要赋予材料新的价值,也必须给予它们平等的对待,旧衣之“旧”的特性,并不是它的劣势,相反,因其经过岁月的沉淀和所承载的故事内涵而转而成了它的优势,令每一件再造衣都独一无二。从2010年创立这个项目至今,张娜在这个领域以先锋的姿态逐渐摸索出了再造衣银行的DNA,以“众Basic -成衣线”“乐 Ready To Wear -高级成衣”“载 Haute Couture -旧衣高级定制”三条线,诠释出整个设计的脉络,完整地诠释再造衣的概念。并在旧衣回收的基础上,与多个成衣品牌,例如Levi's、Lee等合作,改造它们库存中的牛仔面料,让再造衣银行真正成为一个可以独立的成熟品牌。
张娜
张娜
再造衣银行和Fake Natoo创始人
Tatler :在做再造衣银行的这个项目过程中,你面对的最大的挑战是什么?
张娜:再造衣如果需要做批量化的生产,从设计到生产流程都需要全新的创新,到目前为止,也并没有一个相对比较成功的案例项目可以参考,因此在这过程中会面对很多问题,每一天都会面对很多的挑战。
Tatler :你为何如此专注于环保时装的设计?
张:再造衣银行除了环保时装的概念,也是因为希望将每件旧衣身上的情感和故事得以延续,在如今追寻快速变化的时尚圈,这些服装也许有着自己独特的意义。
Tatler :可以分享一下再造衣银行将来的发展方向吗?张:我希望再造衣银行众、乐、载三条主线可以稳扎稳打地逐步发展,经得起时间的考验。我并不想大家仅仅因为这个品牌的绿色标签而对它给予关注,更希望能让产品本身来说话,让大家真正了解它的独特魅力。
Tatler :除了再造衣银行这个项目,你在生活中是否还会贯彻环保的理念?
张:在生活中,我们每个人都消耗了很多不必要的资源,我认为设计其实是解决问题的,但现在越来越多的设计是激发我们的欲望,我认为拥有的即需要珍惜,因此我在购买每一样产品的时候都会问自己,我自己是不是真的需要它,这和我设计作品的理念也完全一致。
EcoChic Design Award比赛中以旧衣制作的全新服饰
拒绝时尚浪费
在衣服剪裁的过程中,多余的材料往往会被视为累赘与无用之物, 但如今,越来越多的设计师渐意识到如何来珍视每一点一滴的原材料。也有越来越多的设计师对这些“边角料”感兴趣,将它们重新利用并焕发新的生命。例如Christina Dean在2007年创立了“Redress”组织,这个非营利机构的使命是教育公众减少浪费,推广时装的可持续性利用,减少时尚对环境的影响。自2007年以来,Christina 曾举办不少活动推广“不要丢弃”的理念, 譬如创立了“The EcoChic Design Award”和推出如“The Get Redressed Challenge”项目等, 致力于令大家改变穿衣习惯。其中,The EcoChic Design Award是目前针对年轻设计师的全球最大奖项,这个奖项目的旨在启发新晋时装设计师及学生,以最少浪费创造符合大众市场的设计。设计师在这个比赛过程中将学习到可持续时装的设计理论和技巧,如零废弃、重新构造和升级再造等技巧,加以运用至创造可持续时装。经过这样的磨练,设计师们逐渐改变自己的设计理念,减少时尚浪费,并改变时尚格局。来自英国的设计师Kévin Germanier曾获得2014/2015 EcoChic Design Award的奖项,并曾与Shanghai Tang合作升级循环系列,利用品牌提供的废弃面料制成限量系列。
Kévin Germanier
Kévin Germanier 设计师
Tatler :是什么引发了你对于环保设计的热情?
Kévin Germanier : 对我来说可持续性是和时尚相关的。当我还是学生的时候,我就经常循环使用一些材料设计衣服,因为那时候没有太多钱买棉布,我就会用父母的旧床单或是其他一些材料。在设计服装的同时又能保护环境是一件非常奇妙的事。作为一个年轻又富有激情的设计师,有用对我来说很重要。这种环保的方式也能让我时刻保持警惕。我想通过我的作品告诉大家美丽无处不在。
Tatler :在你的设计中,如何运用到环保的元素?
K.G. :我在2014/15 的EcoChic设计比赛的最后环节中, 结合了可回收以及重构的技术,使用剩余军队纺织布料以及服装纺织废料做成服装。这个系列实现了传统与现代手工艺的结合(比如编织、染色和刺绣)。另外,为Shanghai Tang设计的可回收系列产品时,我用了品牌之前剩下的昂贵材料,新的部分只有标签和装饰品。我也设计了非常简洁的款式,这样就不用浪费一些不必要的部分了。当你想要做到环保的时候,设计是非常具有挑战性的,你会遇到很多困难,但最后你一定能做到的。这就是环保时尚的魅力。
Tatler :在你将来的设计中,会坚持环保的理念吗?
K.G. :是的,设计师是设计衣服的,而一个优秀的设计师是用一种环保的方式设计漂亮衣服。
绿色时装
追本溯源,当一件衣服从它的面料开始,就面临了各种环保问题。其中比较突出的是羊绒对环境的影响,制成一件羊绒衫需要花费4只山羊的出毛量,相比之下,1只绵羊的出毛量就能够生产出5件羊毛衫。因此羊绒曾被认为是传统意义上的奢侈品材料,然而如今大量供应的休闲羊绒制品如同普通的经济商品一样被大众消费得起。全球对羊绒需求的增加,导致蒙古山羊数量激增,而山羊是典型的草原杀手,它们贪婪地啃食草皮,将草皮消耗殆尽之余还会刨出草根。它们用尖锐的羊蹄扎入土壤表面,一旦土壤结皮被破坏,强风就会带走表层土壤。根据联合国开发计划署统计, 现在蒙古90%的土地是脆弱的干土,深受沙漠化的威胁。以环保著称的Stella McCartney是一个环保“素食”品牌,在它们的所有产品中从不使用动物皮革、皮草、毛皮或是羽毛。面对羊绒对于环境的影响,Stella McCartney一直在不断寻求新的方法来降低服装生产对于环境的不良影响,停止了在针织产品系列中使用初生羊绒(羊胎绒),而是通过回收意大利纺织工厂在加工过程中产生的废弃材料制成的再生羊绒,这种再生羊绒被称为Re.Verso,相比初生羊绒,Re.Verso对环境的不良影响降低了92%。同样意识到羊绒的环保问题的,还有对于环境问题持续关注的乔琬珊,她毕业于哈佛大学肯尼迪管理学院、宾夕法尼亚大学与沃顿商学院,在哈佛的求学过程中,她曾参与联合国在纽约和泰国的计划开发工作,在泰国完成了资讯和通信技术方案的研究,在纽约完成了企业可持续发展的专案。而她目前的身份,是牦牛绒制品品牌Shokay的创始人,她不是来自藏区,也没学过纺织,却打造出了世界第一家牦牛绒创意品牌,相比山羊,牦牛因为不以草根为食而不会对草原造成负面影响,乔婉珊从西藏黑马河的牧民手中收购来牦牛绒,交给工厂清洗、染色, 制成纱线, 由上海崇明岛的农村妇女组成的编织小组,按照设计师设计的款式,手工制作出成品。如今,Shokay在上海设有专卖店,产品在全世界超过100家商场有售。同时,乔婉珊也将Shokay定义为一家社会企业,通过它,几千户牧民的生活得以改善,并以创新的商业模式保护当地的生态环境,传递“可持续发展才是真正的奢华”的理念。
乔琬珊
乔琬珊
Shokay创始人
Tatler :是什么令你如此关注环保和可持续发展的议题?
乔琬珊:这是一个全球性的议题,和地球上的每一个人息息相关。现在中国已经走向需要均衡发展的时候,而且从空气到水质都影响到每个人的生活,所以可持续发展是必需的。
Tatler :在打造牦牛绒产品的同时,你如何保护当地的牦牛、草原生态以及减少对环境的负面影响?
乔:长期以来,牦牛被当地牧民视作赖以生存的生命线,牧民和牦牛的感情深厚,每年去绒的时候都是在自然脱落以前用手工或是耙子梳理下来,不会伤害到动物。牦牛不以草根为食,因此不会破坏草场植被。目前中国境内共有1,400万头牦牛,每年可产500 吨牛绒,但目前的实际使用率只有五分之一不到,因此尚未达到过度开发影响生态环境的可能。不过未来我们在扩张时,也会多和牧民一起保护草原生态。牦牛绒本身就是天然纤维,可生物降解,比人工合成纤维天然具有环保性能。
Tatler :牦牛绒产品和传统的羊绒制品相比,有什么优势?
乔:针对羊毛、羊绒、牦牛绒三种纤维制品,我们邀请香港理工大学做了一项为期2年的比较研究,证明牦牛绒比羊绒和羊毛都更保暖和透气,而且在同等细度下,牛绒比羊毛更光滑,不刺激皮肤。但是相比羊绒,由于牦牛绒的纤维更短、在工艺上难度相当大,容易断线。从100%纯牦牛绒纱线到面料,我们经历了很多年的努力研究和尝试,直至去年联合日本Mitsuboshi集团成功开发出全球第一款100%牦牛绒面料。这不仅基于我们在原料分级上的进一步细化,取得了更好的纤维原料,也基于Mitsuboshi集团上百年的织造经验。
Tatler :众所周知,纺织行业对于环境最大的影响在于清洗和印染所使用的助剂,Shokay如何避免这方面对于环境的危害?
乔:纺织行业对环境影响是无可避免的,但是我们目前要求所有合作的厂商都必须合乎环保标准和国际规范,以尽量降低对环境的影响力。 以更长远的计划,最重要的是持续与研究机构和合作厂商尝试最新技术在牛绒上的应用,如无水印染技术等。
Tatler :应该如何来定义社会企业?
乔:社会企业不是纯粹的企业,也不是一般的社会服务,社会企业透过商业手法运作,赚取利润用以贡献社会。社会企业重视社会价值,多于追求最大的企业盈利。我做牦牛绒产业链的初衷,就是希望能够改善当地牧民的生活,但是相比公益项目而言,让大家发现牦牛绒的价值能使他们获得更长期的经济增长。同时,我们也主动将部分利润投入当地社区建设。
Tatler :Shokay未来的发展方向是什么?
乔:目前,Shokay旗下拥有服饰、家居及旅行饰品等Shokay绣嘉系列产品、及为全球众多服饰品牌及设计师提供纱线及面料的Shokay绣嘉纺织。目前纺织的业务比重为15%,我们会更多拓展合作伙伴和设计师,计划未来这一块业务会增长到50%。
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韩枫
[客座主编] 韩枫 时装设计师
作为一名来自中国的女性,要在纽约这样一个名师荟萃的世界时装之都创建自己的品牌是一件很困难的事。然而韩枫做到了。她凭着对艺术的感悟,从设计围巾开始慢慢摸索着走进了服装设计这一行。1994年她以一场盛大的服装发布秀被美国当地媒体誉为“第一个成功闯入纽约时装界的中国设计师”,她的同名品牌“Han Feng”也因此成为许多上流社会名媛淑女们出席重要活动时的“Must have” 。虽然有着“国际知名时装设计师”的光环,但韩枫却认为那只是一种表象而已,私底下的她是个非常随性亲和的人,和她利落短发造型的酷酷模样有些不同。而韩枫除了做服装之外,她还设计家居、创作艺术作品,此外,她还是个烹饪家。对她而言,设计只是她生活中的一部分,她其实更看重的是生活本身的乐趣。而这次作为《尚流TATLER》的客座主编,韩枫邀请到了几位她的多年好友们齐聚在她的设计工作室,一起畅谈她们对生活、时尚、设计的热爱。
拍摄采访的这天是一个低温却天气晴朗的周末,地点就约在韩枫位于上海茂名南路的老锦江酒店公寓之中的工作室,这里是她平日工作和生活的地方。白色调的空间搭配上令人感到安心沉稳的原木家具,再点缀上一些不同色彩的工艺品,营造出一种舒适却又别具风格的氛围。其中有几只纯手工由碎布材料制作而成的鸟形装饰品相当引人注目,原来这也是韩枫巧思妙手所设计的,它们也曾经作为装置艺术入选过许多知名的艺术展呢。韩枫说她希望每一个来到她工作室的朋友都能够在这里感受到放松与温馨的感觉,大家可以坐下来喝茶品酒、享受美食、谈天说地并且尽情欣赏她的每一件设计作品。随着韩枫好友们陆续抵达, 整个工作室开始弥漫着欢声笑语, 黄英、Nunzia Carbone和Francesca Tarocco她们早都已经是这里的常客了,4位好友其实在拍摄的前一晚就已经相约一块聚会品酒了,感情之好也从她们亲密的互动之中可见。空档期间韩枫还亲自下厨掌勺做了一道色香味俱全的炒年糕给大家品尝,她的好手艺也博得众人的满堂彩。
Nunzia Carbone 建筑设计
来自意大利的建筑设计师 Nunzia Carbone是 Dedo
Design的合伙创办人,第一次知道韩枫这个名字是在
2004年,她偶然走进了韩枫当时在上海外滩3号的店里,
那时的她就对韩枫设计的东西感到大为惊艳,成为好友之
后也发现两人在设计与审美的观念上有许多相似之处。
Francesca Tarocco
学者
Francesca Tarocco是纽约大学和威尼斯大学的教授,此外她也是当代艺
术的作者和佛学玄学的研究者,和韩枫认识多年,经常相约一起品尝美食
美酒。
黄英
女高音歌唱家
普契尼的歌剧《蝴蝶夫人》的演出让黄英的演唱生涯走向国际。而电影歌剧《蝴蝶
夫人》和汤显祖名著《牡丹亭》的世界巡演也让黄英赢得了极大的声誉,从此,世
界认识了黄英,黄英的歌剧演唱也走向了世界的舞台,并不断举办个人演唱会。
这4位来自不同专业领域的好友,她们对生活与品位也都有各自不同的想法,这次在韩枫邀请带领之下,大家坐下来互相分享对“ 生活、创意与时尚”的见解。
大家对韩枫的第一印象或评价是什么?
黄英:我不会说韩枫是一个时装设计师,因为我觉得韩枫更像是一个非常有创意的艺术家,她是一个拥有特殊才能的人,她很有天赋!
Nunzia Carbone:当我13年前第一次在韩枫的店里看到她设计的东西时,我就已经相当喜欢她的作品。等到我搬至上海并真正和韩枫成为朋友之后,我更加了解她的想法与设计之后,我也就越发欣赏她率性与亲切的个性。
Francesca Tarocco:我在七、八年前因为朋友的关系而认识韩枫,之后就经常会一起相约吃饭聚会等,我觉得韩枫是一个很幽默且爱开玩笑的好朋友。
韩枫:我真的很高兴可以认识这一群好朋友们,她们在不同的专业领域中都十分优秀,我们的价值观也都很相似。对我来说只要成了朋友,那就是一辈子的事了。
如何活出与众不同的生活风格?
韩枫:也许很多人会羡慕我的生活,但我觉得生活都是跟自已的选择有关。我其实对生活的物质要求不高,我更喜欢自由自在开心地过自己的生活,所以我也不擅长制订详细的未来规划。我更想要的是专注于眼前的事情并做到最好,我想我也就是这样活出自己的生活风格吧!
黄英:我觉得要活出与众不同的生活,后天的努力是不容忽视的。另外,就是要对生活对工作一直保有激情,唯有如此才能创造出属于自己的生活风格。
Nunzia Carbone:多去尝试一些新的事物, 也许是去一家没去过的餐厅或酒吧等等,让生活因为有新鲜的人事物而有更多的灵感。
Francesca Tarocco:我的建议是多听多看多学习,然后找到自己感觉最舒适的东西。对我而言美丽也是一种知识。
对时尚生活的各自定义为何?
韩枫:我觉得时尚生活不应该只是盲目跟随时下流行的时髦事物,更应该是找出适合自己的经典对象且可以永久流传的风格。
黄英: 要有自我的个性与原创的精神。
Francesca Tarocco:创意很重要, 我同意韩枫说的,不要跟随他人而是要找出自己的风格。拿穿着打扮来说好了,我觉得穿衣服也是一种表演,我也要求我的每一场演出(每一次的穿着)都很有我的Style。
心目中的时尚人物Icon是谁?
黄英: 时尚经典大师Gabrielle Chanel,她曾说过:“流行稍纵即逝,但风格永存” ,这句话我相当认同。另外我也相当欣赏艺术大师Georgia O'Keeffe,她原创性的构图与明显又大胆的画风让她在男性天下的画坛中脱颖而出。
Nunzia Carbone:我没有特定的一个人物, 因为很多的人事物或元素都让我感到新奇与欣赏。
Francesca Tarocco:我很喜欢中国女作家张爱玲。她写的文字都很有自己的想法,我可以从中感受到她笔下的灵魂和心里的倔强与孤傲,她的作品也留给读者无限的遐想。
生活中一些创意或灵感的启发来源是?
韩枫:我的灵感来自所有的朋友和客户们,我的很多作品都是和他们一起讨论所创造出来的,有时候让别人一起参与和互动反而更可以激发出许多好作品。另外,在旅行中或是食物中我也经常会得到一些启发,例如像我一直都特别喜欢食物摆盘,将这些好吃的食物以一种艺术的方式摆盘呈现,不仅好吃好看,心情也变得好好。
Nunzia Carbone:对我来说可能是图片、食物或是只是单纯的在一个树林中散步都有可能得到一些创意的点子,其实任何看起来有趣的东西都是我的灵感来源。 另外我举一个朋友的例子,他为了寻求灵感的来源而决定沉淀自己并在寺庙中住了一个月。
Francesca Tarocco:创意是混合的, 我认为灵感的来源是无所不在的。
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曾梵志作品,纽约高古轩画廊展出
艺术世界最如雷贯耳的两个名字:曾梵志和拉里· 高古轩( Larry Gagosian )。52 岁的曾梵志被《纽约时报》盛誉为“中国最热门艺术家”,拥有亚洲当代艺术作品最昂贵拍卖价的纪录(2013 年10 月,《最后的晚餐》在香港苏富比拍卖价达2,330 万美元)。为人直率的高古轩则是全球具权威的画商,在美国、欧洲和亚洲共有16 家商业艺廊。
曾梵志
艺术情谊
曾梵志是高古轩唯一代理的当代华人艺术家。高古轩长期合作的当代艺术家包括杰夫· 昆斯( Jeff Koons ) 、村上隆以及安塞尔姆· 基弗( Anselm Kiefer )。传奇艺术家弗朗西斯· 培根( Francis Bacon )、克劳德· 莫奈( Claude Monet )、杰克逊· 波洛克( Jackson Pollock )、赛· 托姆布雷( Cy Twombly )和安迪· 沃霍尔( Andy Warhol )也曾在高古轩展出作品。2011 年,高古轩在香港开设艺廊,首批展览中便包括曾梵志个展。自此,两人便建立了深厚友谊。这位著名的高产艺术家被称为“再造大师”,这也正是高古轩在作品中不懈追求的特质。
Larry Gagosian
大师传奇
曾梵志的父母是武汉印刷厂的工人。他16 岁便辍学,跟父母一同工作。绘画成为他日常辛苦劳作的调剂。几年后,他便申请进入艺术学院学习。他5次高考失利,但最终于1987 年,被湖北美术学院录取。在这里,他培养了对德国表现主义独一无二的欣赏能力。在广告公司短暂停留之后,曾梵志于1993 年迁往北京,全心全意投入艺术创作。从具象现实主义到抽象风景画,30 年的艺术生涯经历了丰富多样的艺术形式。他最著名的《面具》系列,表达了他迁居北京后的疏离感,以及见证中国刚刚走向富强和快速发展的不安。北京尤伦斯当代艺术中心近日还举办了曾梵志作品大型回顾展。
曾梵志还在念书时,高古轩已经从加州大学洛杉矶分校毕业,在洛杉矶担任停车场经理。他注意到一个在停车场卖海报的男人。以高古轩敏锐的商业眼光,他突然意识到,如果把海报放在相框里卖售价会更高。他很快就开设了自己的海报店,之后又开始展出一些摄影师的作品,逐渐建立了收藏家和颇具影响力的社交网络。不久之后,他便进入了艺术世界,就此开始搭建属于自己的艺术帝国。亚洲对于高古轩而言,仍旧是至关重要的市场。今年,他将继续扩张其香港艺廊,再占毕打行的一层空间。他还计划代理其他亚洲当代艺术家。
拉里· 高古轩和曾梵志
艺术对话
拉里· 高古轩、曾梵志和收藏家William Zhao三人一起就亚洲艺术生态及发展展开对谈。
William Zhao :拉里,为什么当时会选择曾梵志成为艺廊的首位亚洲当代艺术家?
拉里· 高古轩:我的朋友、我尊敬的收藏家还有博物馆都在收藏梵志的作品。而且因为是在亚洲开设艺廊,我觉得代理一位重量级的华人艺术家至关重要。我主要是通过介绍册和线上复制品了解他的作品,但已经为他的创作能力而折服。他是位非常有才华的艺术家,而且我觉得那是一种非常亲切的才华。他还有一些作品更植根于亚洲文化,或许假以时日,我能够对那些作品有更深刻的理解。但是如果从我自身的文化背景来看,他的技巧和风格让我极度惊艳。另外,他很明显已经开创了很好的市场,他的作品的拍卖价格也很有竞争力。我的好朋友弗朗索瓦· 皮诺( François Pinault )(经验丰富的艺术收藏家、零售业巨头开云集团大股东)也持续多年大力支持曾梵志的艺术创作,我尊重他的判断。对艺廊而言,选择曾梵志毫无疑问是一个非常明智的选择。
William Zhao :梵志呢,你为什么选择与高古轩画廊合作?
曾梵志: 高古轩是一个很好的展示品牌。对我而言,他们的空间很适合我的大幅作品。每次展览,我都会亲自设计。我也总是按比例复制空间,来看墙面和我作品的尺寸比例。很多元素都是精心挑选、量身定制。高古轩总是能够符合我的高标准和众多要求。高古轩给我一个很好的平台,作为一名艺术家去试验、成长和发展。每次办展,我都会研究和探索参观者的教育情况、生活背景和精神世界,观察他们的反应。我认为,对于展览而言,这种双向的交流符合情理。我不能完全不关心外部世界,只闭门作画。艺术家通常都自我感很强,有个人理想。但做展览的时候,你还是想要跟大家建立起有趣的交流。
William Zhao :如何界定你和拉里· 高古轩之间的关系?
曾梵志:我们非常尊重彼此。通过与拉里的合作,我见到了很多不一样、也很有意思的人。作为艺廊的经营者,他有很好的态度,为人非常真诚。我们已经成为非常好的长期合作伙伴。基本上,他给了我很多自由和空间,他的团队也很专业。每次创作和设计展览时,他总是很信任我,而且会给我大力的支持。
William Zhao :拉里,你与曾梵志合作的时候,他已经在中国有很多支持者了。毫无疑问,这有助于你的业务在中国的发展。与此同时,艺廊也为曾梵志带来了很多国际收藏家。这看起来是一个双赢的合作。
拉里· 高古轩:从某种程度上而言,代理曾梵志是我们向中国艺术收藏界示好,可以说是一个政治性的宣言吧。但如果我不喜欢他的作品,或者不觉得他的作品出众,我也绝对不会接受。我们的合作也同样有利于梵志。因为有我们这样顶级的国际画廊代理他的作品,会给亚洲收藏家更强的信心收藏他的作品。
William Zhao :2011 年起,你就已经在香港、伦敦展出曾梵志的作品。去年,还在纽约办展。你觉得自己如何能够帮助他在国际平台上发展并使他的作品成为博物馆的藏品?
拉里· 高古轩:我们正在美国尝试运作博物馆的可能性,但在成型之前,我还不想说太多。我们已经成功将作品销给欧洲和美国等西方收藏家,但是这位艺术家在亚洲的市场才刚刚起步。随着时间的推移,我相信他的市场必将不断扩展。对他而言,美国收藏家和博物馆更强势的参与非常重要,但这需要时间,而且不能强求。我认为这只是一个曝光量的问题。假以时日,他肯定能获得更广泛的观众,因为他真的是非常杰出的艺术人才。
William Zhao :你觉得梵志的作品,西方观众容易理解吗?
拉里· 高古轩:我认为这是这位艺术家的优势所在。即便西方观众无法完全理解他作品中反映的文化,画作纯粹的魅力和精湛技艺也仍然非常迷人且震撼人心。
William Zhao :10 年前,香港并不是像如今这样的“艺术之都”,但你还是决定在这里开设画廊。你是如何预见到亚洲的艺术市场会有如此大的潜力的?
拉里· 高古轩:这跟亚洲创造的巨大财富紧密相关,这样的发展让人叹为观止。全新的亿万富翁和全新博物馆几乎是垂直发展的。促成这个决策有很多因素,但其实跟所有其他市场变强的理由也都相同——强势收藏基础,同时亚洲收藏家之间又有一定的竞争。他们去到某人的家里,看到毕加索,之后就想要买毕加索。这是很正常的。所以,我认为主要原因是更多的曝光,同时还要有经济能力去追逐这种曝光。
William Zhao :中国艺术市场还处于新兴阶段,收藏家还需要教育。作为领先全球的国际性画廊,你是否觉得自己应当担负起在中国进行艺术教育的角色,以此确保健康和可持续发展的艺术生态系统。
拉里· 高古轩:其实我不这么认为。做展览本身就是一种教育形式。我们不会选择做论坛或小组讨论,或许未来可以考虑,但我的角色并不是这个教育者。我们展示艺术,然后尝试卖掉它们。因为我们在全球的声誉,收藏家们对我们有信心。我们并不是一个刚刚开张6 个月的小画廊。我们良好的声誉让人们对收藏我们代理的艺术家感到放心。他们会觉得,不管买了什么作品,都将会成为艺术历史的一部分。
William Zhao :梵志,北京尤伦斯当代艺术中心最近刚刚举办了你的回顾展。你觉得自己是否已经实现了最初决定从事艺术工作时想要达成的目标?
曾梵志:还没有。作为一名艺术家,我不能只依赖展览和艺廊来实现我的目标。为了让更多的人认可我的作品,我需要缓步前行,我需要时间。那次回顾展就是大约30 年以来的旅程。
William Zhao :高古轩计划引入更多华人或亚洲艺术家进入画廊吗?
拉里· 高古轩:是的,有这个可能,因为我觉得这对我们在亚洲的业务发展有好处。在亚洲艺术家方面展示更加广泛的足迹,这点对我们而言至关重要。但我并没有只是要完成配额的感觉。我在巴黎有两家画廊,但只有一位法国艺术家。所以还是取决于艺术家。如果有我真的觉得很强的作品,有我真的信任的华人艺术家,我们肯定会去了解。我认为,这样既能增强我们的实力,也可以给我们代理的华人艺术家更强的声誉基础。
William Zhao :很多华人收藏家从收藏中国当代艺术起步,现在却开始收藏更多的欧洲和美国艺术。为什么有这样的变化?
拉里· 高古轩:以我的经验来说,收藏家在刚刚起步的时候,通常都会从收藏当本地艺术开始,但是最终他们会从本土文化中脱离,看得更远。欧洲和美国拥有伟大的艺术历史。所以,对于在艺术上投资很大的人而言,历史能给予他们信心。人们信任名声。安迪· 沃霍尔就是一个品牌,像莫奈和毕加索一样。
William Zhao:你会担心华人艺术市场是一个泡沫,就像80 年代日本艺术泡沫一样吗?当时西方艺术在日本可是卖出了破纪录的价格。
拉里· 高古轩:在我看来,亚洲市场非常健康。我不会去想危险,如果太过小心谨慎,就会丧失市场的势头。现在,市场势头强劲,我正趁势而上。现在的市场势头是真的挺好,我不觉得是个高度投机的市场。我们见到越来越多的收藏家,北京也在建非常优质的博物馆,香港内外也是有多家博物馆在建。所以我觉得整体不错。
William Zhao :目前有没有看中的青年或新锐艺术家?
拉里· 高古轩:我认为现在对青年艺术家而言是最好的时候。艺术圈的发展可以说是一个循环,我们正在巩固的阶段。新锐艺术家可能六七年前更为热门。现在,人们正在明确哪些艺术家拥有真正的价值,哪些只是昙花一现。从入行以来,我就一直看着这样的循环往复。有些时期,到处都是新画廊和新艺术家,直到新艺术家的数量太多了,已经到了一个临界点。人们这个时候就会说,“嘿,等等,不可能每个月都出一个天才吧。”人们不会一直对“当月热门”有反应的。他们会说,“我要看看谁能走到下一步”。我认为,这就是我们现在所处的阶段了。
William Zhao :现在,你已经拥有了16 家艺廊。还有计划继续在亚洲开设新艺廊吗?
拉里· 高古轩:我爱上海。我爱东京。我们确实非常激进,但同时也很谨慎,在画廊扩张时需要做大量调研。我还记得当年,很多画廊都想去巴西开馆,因为大家都在首届“ArtRio 艺术里约国际博览会”上获得了惊人的销售业绩。突然之间,巴西经济急速下滑,股市骤跌。崩盘会影响所有领域,不论是艺术,还是,譬如说,卡地亚的腕表等等。我总是努力了解世界经济。我不是天才,但会时刻关注以做出明智的决策。
高古轩将参与于香港举办的亚洲巴塞尔艺术展,展览将于3 月23-25 日在香港会议展览中心举办。高古轩将参展“艺廊荟萃”板块。该板块将展出来自全球187 间著名艺廊代理的20 及21 世纪现当代艺术作品,涵盖画作、雕塑、绘画、装置、摄影作品、电影、录像及数码艺术等作品。更多信息,请访问 artbasel.com
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沛纳海全球首席执行官Angelo Bonati专程从意大利飞抵北京宣布该全新合作,与现场的贵宾们率先预览霍建华在佛罗伦萨的旅程,一齐探索城中与品牌历史有莫大渊源的著名地标。
霍建华作为沛纳海多年的忠实收藏家与鉴赏家,完美演绎沛纳海品牌所体现的生活方式之价值所在。他们的此次合作也将引领更多大众进入精彩纷呈、纯正丰富的腕表世界。
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裴蓓 漆皮风衣、刺绣连身裙
王朱筱寅 拼色夹克、条纹衬衣、藏蓝色西裤 均为 Fendi
曾以Dior 2007 年巴黎时装周头秀蜚声国际,在极短的时间内迅速成为中国上位最快的超模,随后又成为多个国际著名品牌的代言人,并在演艺圈渐崭露头角,参与了多部影视作品的拍摄,裴蓓的成功之路看上去走得无比顺畅。在镜头里,她表现出的是一贯的酷感与潇洒,但私底下,却充满了亲和力,和王朱筱寅的甜蜜互动也表现出她小鸟依人的一面。很早就成名的裴蓓和王朱筱寅都是国际T台上万众瞩目的焦点,两人却在高峰时期选择放弃了国际舞台而回国发展,为了这个选择,他们曾遭遇过不少质疑,但生性洒脱的两人并不在意外界的眼光,而是用着最适合自己节奏的步伐,踏实稳健地走出属于自己的成功之路。
裴蓓 印花卡其色风衣、Strap You肩带作腰带用、印花半身裙 均为 Fendi
高跟鞋 Prada
王朱筱寅 浅灰色风衣、运动套装 均为 Prada
白色运动鞋 Fendi
甘苦与共的超模生涯
一谈到裴蓓,不免会联想到2007年在巴黎Dior春夏高级定制服秀场上,她被设计师John Galliano指定为开场模特儿,谢幕时更牵着她的手向众人宣布“她是我今年最喜爱的模特”。也是从那时开始,大家疯狂地想知道那个让时尚界鬼才大师如此推崇的女孩究竟是谁?而裴蓓也在那天之后获得国际关注而声名大噪。如今,10年过去,裴蓓回想起那时的场景依旧觉得有点不可思议,她说那时的自己还很青涩懵懂,能获此殊荣,她害羞而小声地直呼自己真的很幸运。10年的时光足以让一个人发生极大的改变,裴蓓从20出头的女孩跨入一个成熟的全新阶段,裴蓓的事业和生活都发生了很多难忘的故事,但内心并没有变化:“论改变其实自己真的改变不大,但确实在这10年间收获了许多。除了接到了不少自己喜爱品牌的秀之外,也认识了很多志同道合的朋友,这也是我这10年来最珍惜的部分。”作为一个超模,留给大家的印象通常是T台上的绚烂时刻,裴蓓和王朱筱寅向公众展现的也都是充满阳光和快乐的正能量,但这些美丽的表象背后所付出的辛酸与挑战却鲜少会向人提及。裴蓓说她常在寒冷的冬天拍摄春夏的服装,暖宝宝贴满全身还要摆出春夏轻盈的活力,又或是在酷暑的夏天得穿上厚重的皮草,这样辛苦的常态工作也只能咬着牙努力完成。王朱筱寅也经历过类似的辛苦,曾经有一次他在海拔4,000多米的雪山拍摄,雪没到了膝盖,却仍然要拍摄动态的影片,因为高山缺氧的关系,拍摄一阵子他就得跑去吸个氧气,然后回来再继续,如此重复来回多次才能捕捉到最好的镜头。面对这些挑战,王朱筱寅认为越是艰难越是能收获美好的作品:“一张定格的美丽画面往往是经过了无数次的调整与拍摄才能产生,而模特更是其中的灵魂,我们所要做的就是将这样的极致带给观众欣赏。”
条纹打底衫、粉色连身裙均为 Fendi
自然而发的时尚感
身为超模,裴蓓和王朱筱寅都曾去过许多时尚之都,例如巴黎、伦敦、米兰、纽约等等,裴蓓喜爱巴黎古典又充满浪漫的气息,但自己最喜欢的城市却是纽约,“因为我觉得纽约和上海很像,所有最现代化的新鲜事物都可以在纽约发掘”。而王朱筱寅则最欣赏伦敦,因为浓厚的英伦绅士风范让他特别着迷。
身处时尚圈,两人对时尚与美丽的态度不约而同地相似,也许是看多了过度的设计与繁复的装饰,裴蓓和王朱筱寅都认为一个人最美丽的状态就是自然,并且要保持一个平淡之心,不从众与盲目追求时下的流行。裴蓓坦言,自己刚出道的时候往往只要求外表漂亮,但现在则越发注重内在的涵养,为此,她在闲暇时候都会选择阅读各种书籍,最近在读的书是卡勒德· 胡赛尼所著的《追风筝的人》和白岩松的自传《白说》,汲取书中人物的故事与经验,在她看来也是提升自己的一种方式。
时尚圈的前辈是他们成功路上的指引者,裴蓓将Kate Moss视为自己心目中的时尚Icon,“ Kate Moss百变却又永远保持经典的形象,我希望自己也能成为像她那样引领风格的传奇人物 ”。王朱筱寅则十分欣赏Brad Pitt,因为他出席各种场合都穿搭有型。
很多人都好奇超模的保养方式,两人给出的答案却让人大跌眼镜,裴蓓说“: 平时真的没有特别保养或健身的方式,我们俩又特别爱吃美食,真的是有什么吃什么的那种,但我们始终维持着饭后一定要散步的习惯,我想这也是帮助我们维持身材的一个主要关键吧。”
印花连身长裙墨绿色西装套装、条纹衬衣 均为 Fendi
随遇而安的从容
裴蓓和王朱筱寅从2005年相识相恋到2012年结婚,感情从浓烈的爱情升华为互相依赖的默契,私底下,生活中的他们其实和一般平凡人无异,平时喜欢宅在家里玩玩游戏、看书、听音乐,他们笑称似乎在过老年人的生活。
当我让他们各自用一句话来形容自己和对方,他们的第一反应是相视大笑,然后立刻给出形容对方的答案,但要形容自己时反而思考了许久。裴蓓笑着形容“: 王朱筱寅就是个话唠!”并用“表面冷酷,内心热情”来形容自己。王朱筱寅对裴蓓的描述是“ 心地善良的一个女孩”,说到自己时,承认自己有时话真的挺多的,但特别顾家。如今,两人已经结婚5年,在各种采访中也经常被问到什么时候会想要生孩子,两人面对这个问题也十分坦白地表示正在努力中,也许在不久的将来我们就可以看到他们爱情的结晶了。
对于当初决定离开国际舞台而错失了一些发展机会,两人并没有丝毫的犹豫和后悔,裴蓓说:“当然也曾想过如果当初留在国外发展,也许现在的我们就有机会发展得更好,但那个选择却让我们的生活有了不同的故事,我们对现在的自己感到很知足,即使平淡也是最好的时光。” 对于未来,除了持续在国内的时尚界发光发热,他们也有一些其他的小梦想,例如想开一家充满特色风味的上海餐厅,虽然目前还只是一个初步的想法,但也许有一天我们就会看到他们的新餐厅成为上海最火的热点之一。
裴蓓正在阅读的书《追风筝的人》中有一句说道“: 我们是否知道我们心中的风筝到底在什么地方,人生错过就不会再得到,也许我们会忏悔,会救赎,但这些似乎都已经晚了,每当天空放飞起风筝的那一刻,我们是不是应该问问自己我们是否真的珍惜我们所拥有的一切。”裴蓓和王朱筱寅这对超模伉俪似乎正在用行动来诠释这句话的意义,面对成功不骄傲,面对挑战不畏惧,淡然与忠于自我的态度正是两人幸福的最佳解读。
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精选";s:7:"loption";s:13:"/tatler-picks";}i:3;a:2:{s:5:"title";s:6:"Brands";s:7:"loption";s:7:"/brands";}}s:10:"body_class";s:2:"t7";s:10:"active_key";s:5:"style";s:15:"latest_articles";a:15:{i:0;a:10:{s:5:"Story";a:40:{s:2:"id";s:4:"4591";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-05-02 14:25:44";s:8:"modified";s:19:"2017-05-02 15:18:24";s:6:"status";s:1:"1";s:10:"publish_at";s:19:"2017-05-02 00:00:00";s:12:"unpublish_at";N;s:4:"type";s:5:"style";s:11:"luxury_news";N;s:11:"advertorial";N;s:12:"people_story";N;s:8:"top_list";s:1:"0";s:5:"title";s:51:"婚礼穿什么?写给男士的婚礼穿著指南";s:4:"deck";s:0:"";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:4770:"无论是新郎,伴郎还是婚礼嘉宾,在这个重特殊的日子里,得体的着装才能令你保持最佳状态。随着婚礼季的到来,男士该如何挑选婚礼服装?你需要以下建议。
晨礼服
晨礼服仍然是英国婚礼上被广泛接受的着装要求。这套正装由细长的人字羊毛制成的经典黑色燕尾服,搭配条纹或犬牙纹长裤、以及对比色调的单排或双排扣马甲组成。 通常保留给皇家的三件套灰色晨礼服也可以成为新郎的替代选择。

Ede&Ravenscroft
一件传统的带有可拆卸衣领的的衬衫搭配丝绸领带。裤子应该稍稍高于腰部,裤脚在鞋子的顶部,裤子前方有一条轻微的裤线,裤子的后面在鞋跟的上方。灰色或黑色的礼帽并非必需,但应始终在婚礼上携带。
黑领结(Black Tie)
黑领结在婚礼上变得越来越普遍,并会在请柬中注明。传统的黑领结由黑色高腰翻领的羊毛晚装外套,晚装长裤以及配有黑色领结的白衬衫构成。

Ede&Ravenscroft
婚礼西装
通常,对于更现代的或城市婚礼而言,西装是晨礼服的替代品,有各种颜色和面料的选择。外套的款式是个人喜好,单排双扣或三扣外套是最受欢迎的选项。新郎可能希望在造型中有更多的乐趣,也许会通过不同的翻领形状或口袋细节来进行个性化选择。

彩色,深蓝色,中灰色和木炭色是最安全和最通用的颜色,但不要害怕根据您的个人品味,风格和婚礼主题来玩色调。布料的类型也是一个重要的考虑因素,较浅色调的棉和亚麻布,为目的地婚礼或夏季婚礼提供了更多的选择。
Ede&Ravenscroft
配件饰品
晨礼服的衬衫应该有一个厚重的衣领,如果衬衫衣领比较简单,则可以搭配婚礼西装。平扣或法式扣是个人的选择,但衬衫袖口应该不超过西装或礼服的袖口半英寸。
婚礼马甲也有穿着规范,如果穿双排扣马甲,则底部按钮应保持松开。他们应该舒适地位于腰带之上,完全遮盖衬衫。许多新郎喜欢穿着不同颜色的马甲,以脱颖而出,参加婚礼派对的其他环节。
当涉及到正装鞋类时,请保持简洁而优雅,搭配经典的牛津鞋,就像Sweeney系带鞋,或者是适合于黑领结或白领结的Overton专利鞋。
优雅的饰品配件是个性化您的婚礼外观的轻松方式。从豪华的丝绸领带,到经典的口袋巾,以及独特的袖扣,都能为你的婚礼装扮增色不少。
《尚流TATLER》的小建议:
- 与新娘一起检查配色方案!
- 不要比婚礼派对更正式。如有疑问,请在邀请函上查看着装要求。
- 不要解开双排扣晚礼服。
- 晨礼服下摆应该到膝关节。
- 不要在最后一刻才定做西装
如果想寻求独一无二的精美套装,你可以尝试Ede&Ravenscroft的量身定做或个人定制服务:
Ede&Ravenscroft是伦敦最古老的服装店,并在1689年获得了第一个皇家委认状,当时被委托制作威廉和玛丽加冕的长袍。 Ede&Ravenscroft致力于提供建立了其声誉的传统价值观,持有三个皇家授权,并为世界各地的男士和女士制作优质的服装。
量身定做:Ede&Ravenscroft 的裁缝将为你量体裁衣,手工制作精美独特的服装,完美贴合您的个人风格。
个人定制:在技术顾问的指导下,你以选择广泛的布料,饰面和款式,为自己定制与众不同的西装。
详询:www.edeandravenscroft.com
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Ball史上最难主题!";s:4:"deck";s:56:"90后投资人余晚晚受邀出席并享受最高礼遇";s:6:"author";s:18:"shangliutatler.com";s:7:"content";s:3921:"素有“时尚奥斯卡”之称的Met Ball(又称Met Gala)于美国时间5月1日晚在纽约大都会举行。作为每年5月初最受期待的时尚盛世,Met Ball永远能吸引到各界名流、明星、时尚人士、超模出席。

Met Ball是纽约大都市艺术博物馆时装馆每年都会举办的慈善晚宴。除了到场嘉宾以外,每年Met Ball最受关注的莫过于它独特的着装主题。主办方会提前公布着装主题,明星名流则会根据这个主题选择相应的着装。
2015年的Met Ball主题是“镜花水月”。这一颇具中国风的主题舞会,也邀请到了有史以来最多的中国明星。
今年,Anna Wintour又增加了主题难度,今年的主题是:Rei Kawakubo 川久保玲。这位今年已经75岁的设计大师,影响了时尚界将近40多年!
她以激进的“反时尚态度”著称。她的设计也如同她的时装态度一样,是让人敬仰却看不懂的存在。
果然,在这一有史以来最难的主题影响下,今年的红毯可谓精彩纷呈。

水果姐Katy Perry一看就是有在认真答题

巴西国宝级超模吉赛尔·邦辰,一身银色露背晚礼服,窈窕曲线尽显
到场的中国明星,杨幂和刘雯,也是表现不俗


除了到场的中国明星以外,还有一位独特的中国女孩,她就是余晚晚Wendy Yu。

与大多明星由品牌邀请不同,余晚晚本次以时尚科技投资人、Met 博物馆的赞助人以及青年慈善家的身份,由美版Vogue主编以及Met Gala主席Anna Wintour亲自邀请出席舞会。
作为Anna Wintour亲邀的嘉宾,她还享受了Met Ball的最高礼遇——由Anna Wintour的团队以及美版Vogue高层亲自为她挑选礼服,安排在Vogue US的总部试衣,试衣过程中美版Vogue Fashion Director Tonne Goodman以及市场部总监Virginia Smith 全程陪同,获得了以往任何中国明星都没有受到过的重视和礼遇。当晚,Anna还安排了德国公主Elisabeth Von Thurn Und Taxis 陪伴余晚晚出席Met Gala。



作为国内(包括港澳台地区)目前为止第一位也是唯一一位受Anna Wintour本人邀请参加Met Ball的90后女孩,余晚晚一身露肩鱼尾裙,大气中带着些许甜美。礼服来自美国新锐设计师Zac Posen,珠宝出自著名高级珠宝设计师Anna Hu胡茵菲之手。

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Weekend)于4月14日精彩亮相上海展览中心,为期三天的首创“浸入式”时尚狂欢活动终于揭开神秘面纱。本次活动顺应大众消费结构升级的趋势,以青年一代的全新“体验”为理念,力邀时尚、音乐、艺术大咖助阵,革新地将时装秀场、买手圣地、交互文化艺术展等创意结合,在拉近时尚和年轻消费者距离的同时,打造整合产品、内容和服务为一体的生活方式大IP,邀请全民齐“浸 Fashion”,连续三天每天9小时即看即买即秀玩转时尚。黄晓明,姚晨,张亮,奚梦瑶,苏芒,冯楚轩等明星以及业内大咖都纷纷为活动点赞。

由左⾄右领导及嘉宾:上海市商务委员会市场体系建设处处⻓周岚、奚梦瑶、Lyn Slater、上海市静安区副区⻓周海鹰、上海时装周组委会副主任/上海市商务委员会副主任刘敏、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、上海市静安区商务委员会主任任少南
国内外明星大咖助阵,陪你一起“浸 Fashion”
时尚周末携手各界明星和大咖,为沪上热爱时尚的年轻群体,奉献一场世界顶级水平的先锋的“浸入式”展览和时尚狂欢,各界明星大咖更是以全新形式,和大众互动:
64岁的银发博主Lyn Slater将在Fashion Lab这一全方位交流平台中,提出了自己的主张——时尚即为你的生活态度,永远没有为时过晚一说。她通过分享自己的故事,用国际的视角阐述“时尚为⼈民服务”这一理念;魔都潮⼈李怡霖也将向观众述说其“亚文化”纹身的故事;网红“鼻祖”陈星如更将在此畅谈其网红进化史;著名歌手袁娅维不仅带来现场表演,更聊起音乐背后的故事。国际超模奚梦瑶,也亲身体验“浸入式”跨界合作,于时尚周末首发其携手携程的跨界设计作品,并亲临现场和到场观众亲密互动。

由左⾄右嘉宾:永柏盛业影视基⾦管理合伙人马骏、奚梦瑶、IPCN国际传媒CEO杨媛草、中润基⾦总裁齐英

银发时尚博主Lyn Slater
国内外知名时尚品牌和新秀设计师加盟,即秀即买过足“买手”瘾
国际著名时装设计师MASHA MA带来最新MASHAMA X LOFi 17秋冬系列,让普通大众也能感受国际时装周头排看秀的体验,融入了CyberPunk科技感廓形和材质的设计作品,也呈现出千禧一代推崇个性和冒险的精神态度,也使时尚大秀真真正正地“为⼈民服务”。


作为中国第一家专业的Showroom,时堂携手时尚周末,不仅带领设计师和品牌试水直面消费者市场,还让大众过把“时尚买手”瘾。鹦鹉螺市集和意大利买手制百货COSCIA带来的一线大牌惊喜低价,切实直观地让时尚为人民服务这一理念的落地开花。
时尚是艺术的一部分,而艺术则是生活的一种形式。上海时尚周末通过一系列活动,激发普通人对于时尚的思考、对美好生活的向往和对未来的期待,这种自上而下的思考和参与,正是“时尚为⼈民服务”的内涵所在。

浸入式的文化艺术盛宴,将“生活艺术化”落地开花
为了呈现一场全方位的时尚感官盛宴,各界艺术家也纷纷“各显神通”,令广大看客不虚此⾏:作为两度斩获格莱美奖的音乐家,Dana Leong与国际知名品牌、艺⼈广泛开展合作,此次也积极加入到时尚周末,更是要和沪上的年轻大众“合作”——通过百⼈冥想的Work-Shop,传达他对时尚周末“浸入式”观点的认同:任何文化艺术形式,只有大众的亲身参与,才能拥有更大的能量和意义。
艺术家宋洋携其艺术作品形象“Bad Girl”也倾力加入上海时尚周末,展现新自由主义的生活态度,和自我且主见的女性先锋认知。
除此之外,各类“浸入式”惊喜9小时不间断,大大提高了活动的趣味性和参与度:DJ音乐狂欢、近距离接触芝麻街卡通巨型⼈偶、交换神秘面具、免费领养多肉植物,更有拳击互动体验、助力公益事业。



时尚周末将时尚元素从其固有环境中剥离,从参观者体验的角度出发,一方面还原时装设计的人文和社会属性,另一方面赋予参观者体会和掌握时尚脉动的力量,挑战每个人的时尚理念乃至时尚消费方式。
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00:00:00";s:12:"unpublish_at";N;s:15:"carousel_fw_url";s:55:"/files/img/20170417154405-DSC_1751_cropped_1980x930.jpg";s:12:"mobile_cover";s:54:"/files/img/20170417154405-DSC_1751_resized_740x494.jpg";}i:11;a:27:{s:2:"id";s:5:"43561";s:4:"name";s:12:"DSC_1263.jpg";s:8:"filesize";s:3:"147";s:4:"type";s:10:"image/jpeg";s:7:"caption";s:0:"";s:11:"object_type";s:5:"story";s:9:"object_id";s:4:"4583";s:6:"source";s:38:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263.jpg";s:10:"square_url";N;s:13:"square300_url";s:54:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_cropped_300x300.jpg";s:13:"square120_url";N;s:9:"thumb_url";s:54:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_resized_225x150.jpg";s:10:"banner_url";s:0:"";s:9:"large_url";s:54:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_resized_773x516.jpg";s:9:"popup_url";s:56:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_resized_773x516-1.jpg";s:8:"h195_url";N;s:18:"carousel_large_url";s:54:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_cropped_660x330.jpg";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-04-17 15:52:46";s:3:"alt";s:0:"";s:6:"people";s:0:"";s:4:"tags";s:0:"";s:4:"sort";s:2:"12";s:6:"status";s:1:"1";s:10:"publish_at";s:19:"2017-04-17 00:00:00";s:12:"unpublish_at";N;s:15:"carousel_fw_url";s:55:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_cropped_1980x930.jpg";s:12:"mobile_cover";s:54:"/files/img/20170417155246-DSC_1263_resized_740x494.jpg";}}s:8:"Gallery1";a:0:{}s:8:"Gallery2";a:0:{}s:8:"Gallery3";a:0:{}s:8:"Gallery4";a:0:{}s:5:"Video";a:0:{}s:3:"Tag";a:2:{i:0;a:8:{s:2:"id";s:36:"58f47045-4fa8-4e9f-964b-23b58bc4bf0c";s:10:"identifier";N;s:4:"name";s:18:"上海时尚周末";s:7:"keyname";s:18:"上海时尚周末";s:6:"weight";s:1:"0";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-04-17 15:35:33";s:8:"modified";s:19:"2018-04-10 10:02:37";s:6:"Tagged";a:8:{s:2:"id";s:36:"58f47045-b53c-478a-a8c0-23b58bc4bf0c";s:11:"foreign_key";s:4:"4583";s:6:"tag_id";s:36:"58f47045-4fa8-4e9f-964b-23b58bc4bf0c";s:5:"model";s:5:"Story";s:8:"language";s:5:"zh-cn";s:12:"times_tagged";s:1:"1";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-04-17 15:35:33";s:8:"modified";s:19:"2017-04-17 15:35:33";}}i:1;a:8:{s:2:"id";s:36:"58f47045-d87c-43a2-9b4e-23b58bc4bf0c";s:10:"identifier";N;s:4:"name";s:15:"Fashion Weekend";s:7:"keyname";s:15:"fashion weekend";s:6:"weight";s:1:"0";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-04-17 15:35:33";s:8:"modified";s:19:"2017-04-18 12:34:54";s:6:"Tagged";a:8:{s:2:"id";s:36:"58f47045-692c-4daf-b75b-23b58bc4bf0c";s:11:"foreign_key";s:4:"4583";s:6:"tag_id";s:36:"58f47045-d87c-43a2-9b4e-23b58bc4bf0c";s:5:"model";s:5:"Story";s:8:"language";s:5:"zh-cn";s:12:"times_tagged";s:1:"1";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-04-17 15:35:33";s:8:"modified";s:19:"2017-04-17 15:35:33";}}}}i:3;a:10:{s:5:"Story";a:40:{s:2:"id";s:4:"4558";s:7:"created";s:19:"2017-03-31 18:22:39";s:8:"modified";s:19:"2017-04-14 18:14:10";s:6:"status";s:1:"1";s:10:"publish_at";s:19:"2017-04-01 00:00:00";s:12:"unpublish_at";N;s:4:"type";s:7:"feature";s:11:"luxury_news";N;s:11:"advertorial";N;s:12:"people_story";N;s:8:"top_list";s:1:"0";s:5:"title";s:39:"淡然之美 | 听李晓玲艺述美好";s:4:"deck";s:549:"她出生于贵族世家,多年旅居法国,并游走世界各地捕获艺术灵感;她敏感而富有爱心,常年关注慈善教育;她树立了独特鲜明的个人风格,备受品牌青睐,成为艺术文化传播的使者;她闪亮耀眼,出现在时尚
杂志里的次数并不亚于明星…… 著名艺术家李晓玲由内而外地散发着名流气息,曾经的荣誉和成就在她身上凝聚成一种沉淀过后的淡然之美。常年在世界各地到处行走,让她更加珍惜在每一个地方的时光。";s:6:"author";s:27:"《尚流TATLER》四月刊";s:7:"content";s:10604:"在李晓玲最近的一条朋友圈中,她写道:“如果你只是等待,发生的事情只会是你变老了。”从最早以“京城四大名媛”之一的身份出现在大众的视野中,至今多年的时光中,她一直都没有停下自己探索世界和发现自我的脚步。作为一名女性艺术家,李晓玲将自己的触角延伸到世界,在生活感悟中汲取艺术灵感。她行走各地,在思想意识上彻底敞开自己,与不同的人和建筑对话,将每次的感悟凝练在自己的绘画中。
艺术让人自由并富有力量
多年前,李晓玲旅居法国,她乐此不疲地参观各大美术馆和画廊的展览,发现西方的油画作品和东方的水墨画之间迥异的差别。她所坚持的水墨画意境看似很简洁,却是中华5000年历史文化的沉淀。李晓玲开始将东方的哲学思想结合西方的绘画材料进行创作,这条国际化的艺术之路,让更多的西方人了解到东方文化艺术的智慧,李晓玲的创新艺术风格从而也被称为“新古典主义”。而这种传统文化与现代技法的相融,在她看来只是艺术的一种技法和表现形式,艺术家最重要的还是要多去观察和感受,然后真实地表达自我思想和意识,包括对人、对环境、对社会及对未来的思考。
多年艺术创作的坚持和沉淀,使得李晓玲获得过诸多奖项,其中不乏“意大利但丁荣誉勋章”、入选《世界华人艺术家成就大典》等殊荣。在这众多的成就中,李晓玲更看重的是这些称号背后的公平和专业性,行业大奖的鼓励和认可更坚定了她自己的艺术使命,使她成为一个不断完善自我的女性。艺术带给了李晓玲无限的力量,就像她一直强调的独立女性理想:“做一个独立的女人首先要思想独立,有主见、有自己的人生观、价值观;有上进心,永远不放弃自己的理想;做一份自己喜爱的事业,拥有快乐和成就感。自由建立在一定的经济基础之上,实现经济上的独立,从而掌控自己的命运和未来,不依赖男人、自强自立的女人才更自信,更有人格魅力!”
马背上的艺术与生活
在李晓玲的艺术作品中, 马是她尤为喜爱的一个创作元素。她经常骑马,观察马的眼睛和身形,用自己的方式和独有的艺术语言来描绘心中的马。在她看来,马不仅外形健美,其坚毅的精神更让人动容,马天生就是为奔跑而生的。这种对马的无限热衷和种种渊源,还使得她获得了CHC杰士马主俱乐部的“驭马锋尚大使”'
unserialize - [internal], line ??
FileEngine::read() - CORE/Cake/Cache/Engine/FileEngine.php, line 188
Cache::read() - CORE/Cake/Cache/Cache.php, line 343
ToolbarHelper::writeCache() - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Helper/ToolbarHelper.php, line 126
ToolbarHelper::getQueryLogs() - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Helper/ToolbarHelper.php, line 220
include - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Elements/sql_log_panel.ctp, line 33
View::_evaluate() - CORE/Cake/View/View.php, line 908
View::_render() - CORE/Cake/View/View.php, line 872
View::element() - CORE/Cake/View/View.php, line 412
include - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Elements/debug_toolbar.ctp, line 45
View::_evaluate() - CORE/Cake/View/View.php, line 908
View::_render() - CORE/Cake/View/View.php, line 872
View::element() - CORE/Cake/View/View.php, line 412
HtmlToolbarHelper::send() - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Helper/HtmlToolbarHelper.php, line 194
Object::dispatchMethod() - CORE/Cake/Core/Object.php, line 113
ToolbarHelper::__call() - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Helper/ToolbarHelper.php, line 108
ToolbarHelper::send() - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Helper/ToolbarHelper.php, line 83
ToolbarHelper::afterLayout() - APP/Plugin/DebugKit/View/Helper/ToolbarHelper.php, line 83
Total Time: 112 ms
Total Queries: 45 queries
Query | Affected | Num. rows | Took (ms) | Actions |
---|
SELECT `Story`.`id`, `Story`.`created`, `Story`.`modified`, `Story`.`status`, `Story`.`publish_at`, `Story`.`unpublish_at`, `Story`.`type`, `Story`.`luxury_news`, `Story`.`advertorial`, `Story`.`people_story`, `Story`.`top_list`, `Story`.`title`, `Story`.`deck`, `Story`.`author`, `Story`.`content`, `Story`.`video_link`, `Story`.`tags`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel_until`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top_until`, `Story`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Story`.`seo_meta_description`, `Story`.`slug`, `Story`.`category`, `Story`.`columnist_id`, `Story`.`nid`, `Story`.`pview`, `Story`.`display_type`, `Story`.`source`, `Story`.`region`, `Story`.`region_id`, `Story`.`user_id`, `Story`.`region_modified`, `Story`.`full_advertorial`, `Story`.`to_tatler_tv`, `Story`.`tatlerball2015`, `Story`.`tatlerball2016`, `Story`.`author_id`, `Story`.`copyright`, `Columnist`.`id`, `Columnist`.`created`, `Columnist`.`modified`, `Columnist`.`type`, `Columnist`.`category`, `Columnist`.`status`, `Columnist`.`publish_at`, `Columnist`.`unpublish_at`, `Columnist`.`name`, `Columnist`.`bio`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_description`, `Columnist`.`slug`, `Author`.`id`, `Author`.`created`, `Author`.`modified`, `Author`.`type`, `Author`.`category`, `Author`.`status`, `Author`.`publish_at`, `Author`.`unpublish_at`, `Author`.`name`, `Author`.`bio`, `Author`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Author`.`seo_meta_description`, `Author`.`slug` FROM `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`columnists` AS `Columnist` ON (`Story`.`columnist_id` = `Columnist`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`authors` AS `Author` ON (`Story`.`author_id` = `Author`.`id`) WHERE `Story`.`status` = '1' AND `Story`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Story`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Story`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) AND `Story`.`slug` = 'tatler-ball-10-lady-2017' LIMIT 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | |
SELECT `Image`.`id`, `Image`.`name`, `Image`.`filesize`, `Image`.`type`, `Image`.`caption`, `Image`.`object_type`, `Image`.`object_id`, `Image`.`source`, `Image`.`square_url`, `Image`.`square300_url`, `Image`.`square120_url`, `Image`.`thumb_url`, `Image`.`banner_url`, `Image`.`large_url`, `Image`.`popup_url`, `Image`.`h195_url`, `Image`.`carousel_large_url`, `Image`.`created`, `Image`.`alt`, `Image`.`people`, `Image`.`tags`, `Image`.`sort`, `Image`.`status`, `Image`.`publish_at`, `Image`.`unpublish_at`, `Image`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Image`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Image` WHERE `Image`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Image`.`object_id` = (5164) ORDER BY `Image`.`sort` ASC, `Image`.`created` ASC | 11 | 11 | 1 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Tag`.`id`, `Tag`.`identifier`, `Tag`.`name`, `Tag`.`keyname`, `Tag`.`weight`, `Tag`.`created`, `Tag`.`modified`, `Tagged`.`id`, `Tagged`.`foreign_key`, `Tagged`.`tag_id`, `Tagged`.`model`, `Tagged`.`language`, `Tagged`.`times_tagged`, `Tagged`.`created`, `Tagged`.`modified` FROM `at_cn`.`tags` AS `Tag` JOIN `at_cn`.`tagged` AS `Tagged` ON (`Tagged`.`foreign_key` IN (49340, 49330, 49331, 49332, 49333, 49334, 49335, 49336, 49337, 49338, 49339) AND `Tagged`.`tag_id` = `Tag`.`id`) WHERE `Tagged`.`model` = 'Image' | 0 | 0 | 2 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Gallery1`.`id`, `Gallery1`.`name`, `Gallery1`.`filesize`, `Gallery1`.`type`, `Gallery1`.`caption`, `Gallery1`.`object_type`, `Gallery1`.`object_id`, `Gallery1`.`source`, `Gallery1`.`square_url`, `Gallery1`.`square300_url`, `Gallery1`.`square120_url`, `Gallery1`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery1`.`banner_url`, `Gallery1`.`large_url`, `Gallery1`.`popup_url`, `Gallery1`.`h195_url`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery1`.`created`, `Gallery1`.`alt`, `Gallery1`.`people`, `Gallery1`.`tags`, `Gallery1`.`sort`, `Gallery1`.`status`, `Gallery1`.`publish_at`, `Gallery1`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery1`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery1` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery1' AND `Gallery1`.`object_id` = (5164) ORDER BY `Gallery1`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery1`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery2`.`id`, `Gallery2`.`name`, `Gallery2`.`filesize`, `Gallery2`.`type`, `Gallery2`.`caption`, `Gallery2`.`object_type`, `Gallery2`.`object_id`, `Gallery2`.`source`, `Gallery2`.`square_url`, `Gallery2`.`square300_url`, `Gallery2`.`square120_url`, `Gallery2`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery2`.`banner_url`, `Gallery2`.`large_url`, `Gallery2`.`popup_url`, `Gallery2`.`h195_url`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery2`.`created`, `Gallery2`.`alt`, `Gallery2`.`people`, `Gallery2`.`tags`, `Gallery2`.`sort`, `Gallery2`.`status`, `Gallery2`.`publish_at`, `Gallery2`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery2`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery2` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery2' AND `Gallery2`.`object_id` = (5164) ORDER BY `Gallery2`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery2`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery3`.`id`, `Gallery3`.`name`, `Gallery3`.`filesize`, `Gallery3`.`type`, `Gallery3`.`caption`, `Gallery3`.`object_type`, `Gallery3`.`object_id`, `Gallery3`.`source`, `Gallery3`.`square_url`, `Gallery3`.`square300_url`, `Gallery3`.`square120_url`, `Gallery3`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery3`.`banner_url`, `Gallery3`.`large_url`, `Gallery3`.`popup_url`, `Gallery3`.`h195_url`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery3`.`created`, `Gallery3`.`alt`, `Gallery3`.`people`, `Gallery3`.`tags`, `Gallery3`.`sort`, `Gallery3`.`status`, `Gallery3`.`publish_at`, `Gallery3`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery3`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery3` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery3' AND `Gallery3`.`object_id` = (5164) ORDER BY `Gallery3`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery3`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery4`.`id`, `Gallery4`.`name`, `Gallery4`.`filesize`, `Gallery4`.`type`, `Gallery4`.`caption`, `Gallery4`.`object_type`, `Gallery4`.`object_id`, `Gallery4`.`source`, `Gallery4`.`square_url`, `Gallery4`.`square300_url`, `Gallery4`.`square120_url`, `Gallery4`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery4`.`banner_url`, `Gallery4`.`large_url`, `Gallery4`.`popup_url`, `Gallery4`.`h195_url`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery4`.`created`, `Gallery4`.`alt`, `Gallery4`.`people`, `Gallery4`.`tags`, `Gallery4`.`sort`, `Gallery4`.`status`, `Gallery4`.`publish_at`, `Gallery4`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery4`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery4` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery4' AND `Gallery4`.`object_id` = (5164) ORDER BY `Gallery4`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery4`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Video`.`id`, `Video`.`title`, `Video`.`description`, `Video`.`source`, `Video`.`object_type`, `Video`.`object_id`, `Video`.`ext`, `Video`.`type`, `Video`.`size`, `Video`.`group`, `Video`.`width`, `Video`.`height`, `Video`.`filesize`, `Video`.`created`, `Video`.`status`, `Video`.`publish_at`, `Video`.`unpublish_at`, `Video`.`tags`, `Video`.`slug`, `Video`.`event`, `Video`.`behindscene`, `Video`.`old_source`, `Video`.`youtube` FROM `at_cn`.`videos` AS `Video` WHERE `Video`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Video`.`object_id` = (5164) ORDER BY `Video`.`created` DESC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Tag`.`id`, `Tag`.`identifier`, `Tag`.`name`, `Tag`.`keyname`, `Tag`.`weight`, `Tag`.`created`, `Tag`.`modified`, `Tagged`.`id`, `Tagged`.`foreign_key`, `Tagged`.`tag_id`, `Tagged`.`model`, `Tagged`.`language`, `Tagged`.`times_tagged`, `Tagged`.`created`, `Tagged`.`modified` FROM `at_cn`.`tags` AS `Tag` JOIN `at_cn`.`tagged` AS `Tagged` ON (`Tagged`.`foreign_key` = 5164 AND `Tagged`.`tag_id` = `Tag`.`id`) WHERE `Tagged`.`model` = 'Story' | 4 | 4 | 4 | |
SELECT `Tagged`.`id`, `Tagged`.`foreign_key`, `Tagged`.`tag_id`, `Tagged`.`model`, `Tagged`.`language`, `Tagged`.`times_tagged`, `Tagged`.`created`, `Tagged`.`modified` FROM `at_cn`.`tagged` AS `Tagged` WHERE `Tagged`.`tag_id` IN ('4fc07aba-aca8-4389-afa0-7f4fec96abf8', '58665eed-32cc-4281-8c14-21138bc4bf0c', '5938f786-0ac8-4794-926b-34798bc4bf0c', '598934db-4d08-4c95-9e89-0a3e8bc4bf0c') | 64 | 64 | 8 | maybe slow |
SELECT COUNT(*) AS `count` FROM `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` WHERE `Story`.`id` = 5164 | 1 | 1 | 0 | |
SELECT `Story`.`id`, `Story`.`created`, `Story`.`modified`, `Story`.`status`, `Story`.`publish_at`, `Story`.`unpublish_at`, `Story`.`type`, `Story`.`luxury_news`, `Story`.`advertorial`, `Story`.`people_story`, `Story`.`top_list`, `Story`.`title`, `Story`.`deck`, `Story`.`author`, `Story`.`content`, `Story`.`video_link`, `Story`.`tags`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel_until`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top_until`, `Story`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Story`.`seo_meta_description`, `Story`.`slug`, `Story`.`category`, `Story`.`columnist_id`, `Story`.`nid`, `Story`.`pview`, `Story`.`display_type`, `Story`.`source`, `Story`.`region`, `Story`.`region_id`, `Story`.`user_id`, `Story`.`region_modified`, `Story`.`full_advertorial`, `Story`.`to_tatler_tv`, `Story`.`tatlerball2015`, `Story`.`tatlerball2016`, `Story`.`author_id`, `Story`.`copyright`, `Columnist`.`id`, `Columnist`.`created`, `Columnist`.`modified`, `Columnist`.`type`, `Columnist`.`category`, `Columnist`.`status`, `Columnist`.`publish_at`, `Columnist`.`unpublish_at`, `Columnist`.`name`, `Columnist`.`bio`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_description`, `Columnist`.`slug`, `Author`.`id`, `Author`.`created`, `Author`.`modified`, `Author`.`type`, `Author`.`category`, `Author`.`status`, `Author`.`publish_at`, `Author`.`unpublish_at`, `Author`.`name`, `Author`.`bio`, `Author`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Author`.`seo_meta_description`, `Author`.`slug` FROM `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`columnists` AS `Columnist` ON (`Story`.`columnist_id` = `Columnist`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`authors` AS `Author` ON (`Story`.`author_id` = `Author`.`id`) WHERE `Story`.`columnist_id` IS NULL AND `Story`.`status` = '1' AND `Story`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Story`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Story`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) AND NOT (`Story`.`id` = 5164) ORDER BY `Story`.`publish_at` DESC LIMIT 5 | 5 | 5 | 58 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Image`.`id`, `Image`.`name`, `Image`.`filesize`, `Image`.`type`, `Image`.`caption`, `Image`.`object_type`, `Image`.`object_id`, `Image`.`source`, `Image`.`square_url`, `Image`.`square300_url`, `Image`.`square120_url`, `Image`.`thumb_url`, `Image`.`banner_url`, `Image`.`large_url`, `Image`.`popup_url`, `Image`.`h195_url`, `Image`.`carousel_large_url`, `Image`.`created`, `Image`.`alt`, `Image`.`people`, `Image`.`tags`, `Image`.`sort`, `Image`.`status`, `Image`.`publish_at`, `Image`.`unpublish_at`, `Image`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Image`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Image` WHERE `Image`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Image`.`object_id` IN (6616, 6615, 6614, 6613, 6612) ORDER BY `Image`.`sort` ASC, `Image`.`created` ASC | 5 | 5 | 1 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Gallery1`.`id`, `Gallery1`.`name`, `Gallery1`.`filesize`, `Gallery1`.`type`, `Gallery1`.`caption`, `Gallery1`.`object_type`, `Gallery1`.`object_id`, `Gallery1`.`source`, `Gallery1`.`square_url`, `Gallery1`.`square300_url`, `Gallery1`.`square120_url`, `Gallery1`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery1`.`banner_url`, `Gallery1`.`large_url`, `Gallery1`.`popup_url`, `Gallery1`.`h195_url`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery1`.`created`, `Gallery1`.`alt`, `Gallery1`.`people`, `Gallery1`.`tags`, `Gallery1`.`sort`, `Gallery1`.`status`, `Gallery1`.`publish_at`, `Gallery1`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery1`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery1` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery1' AND `Gallery1`.`object_id` IN (6616, 6615, 6614, 6613, 6612) ORDER BY `Gallery1`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery1`.`created` ASC | 26 | 26 | 1 | |
SELECT `Gallery2`.`id`, `Gallery2`.`name`, `Gallery2`.`filesize`, `Gallery2`.`type`, `Gallery2`.`caption`, `Gallery2`.`object_type`, `Gallery2`.`object_id`, `Gallery2`.`source`, `Gallery2`.`square_url`, `Gallery2`.`square300_url`, `Gallery2`.`square120_url`, `Gallery2`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery2`.`banner_url`, `Gallery2`.`large_url`, `Gallery2`.`popup_url`, `Gallery2`.`h195_url`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery2`.`created`, `Gallery2`.`alt`, `Gallery2`.`people`, `Gallery2`.`tags`, `Gallery2`.`sort`, `Gallery2`.`status`, `Gallery2`.`publish_at`, `Gallery2`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery2`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery2` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery2' AND `Gallery2`.`object_id` IN (6616, 6615, 6614, 6613, 6612) ORDER BY `Gallery2`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery2`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery3`.`id`, `Gallery3`.`name`, `Gallery3`.`filesize`, `Gallery3`.`type`, `Gallery3`.`caption`, `Gallery3`.`object_type`, `Gallery3`.`object_id`, `Gallery3`.`source`, `Gallery3`.`square_url`, `Gallery3`.`square300_url`, `Gallery3`.`square120_url`, `Gallery3`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery3`.`banner_url`, `Gallery3`.`large_url`, `Gallery3`.`popup_url`, `Gallery3`.`h195_url`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery3`.`created`, `Gallery3`.`alt`, `Gallery3`.`people`, `Gallery3`.`tags`, `Gallery3`.`sort`, `Gallery3`.`status`, `Gallery3`.`publish_at`, `Gallery3`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery3`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery3` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery3' AND `Gallery3`.`object_id` IN (6616, 6615, 6614, 6613, 6612) ORDER BY `Gallery3`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery3`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery4`.`id`, `Gallery4`.`name`, `Gallery4`.`filesize`, `Gallery4`.`type`, `Gallery4`.`caption`, `Gallery4`.`object_type`, `Gallery4`.`object_id`, `Gallery4`.`source`, `Gallery4`.`square_url`, `Gallery4`.`square300_url`, `Gallery4`.`square120_url`, `Gallery4`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery4`.`banner_url`, `Gallery4`.`large_url`, `Gallery4`.`popup_url`, `Gallery4`.`h195_url`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery4`.`created`, `Gallery4`.`alt`, `Gallery4`.`people`, `Gallery4`.`tags`, `Gallery4`.`sort`, `Gallery4`.`status`, `Gallery4`.`publish_at`, `Gallery4`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery4`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery4` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery4' AND `Gallery4`.`object_id` IN (6616, 6615, 6614, 6613, 6612) ORDER BY `Gallery4`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery4`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Video`.`id`, `Video`.`title`, `Video`.`description`, `Video`.`source`, `Video`.`object_type`, `Video`.`object_id`, `Video`.`ext`, `Video`.`type`, `Video`.`size`, `Video`.`group`, `Video`.`width`, `Video`.`height`, `Video`.`filesize`, `Video`.`created`, `Video`.`status`, `Video`.`publish_at`, `Video`.`unpublish_at`, `Video`.`tags`, `Video`.`slug`, `Video`.`event`, `Video`.`behindscene`, `Video`.`old_source`, `Video`.`youtube` FROM `at_cn`.`videos` AS `Video` WHERE `Video`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Video`.`object_id` IN (6616, 6615, 6614, 6613, 6612) ORDER BY `Video`.`created` DESC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Tag`.`id`, `Tag`.`identifier`, `Tag`.`name`, `Tag`.`keyname`, `Tag`.`weight`, `Tag`.`created`, `Tag`.`modified`, `Tagged`.`id`, `Tagged`.`foreign_key`, `Tagged`.`tag_id`, `Tagged`.`model`, `Tagged`.`language`, `Tagged`.`times_tagged`, `Tagged`.`created`, `Tagged`.`modified` FROM `at_cn`.`tags` AS `Tag` JOIN `at_cn`.`tagged` AS `Tagged` ON (`Tagged`.`foreign_key` IN (6616, 6615, 6614, 6613, 6612) AND `Tagged`.`tag_id` = `Tag`.`id`) WHERE `Tagged`.`model` = 'Story' | 0 | 0 | 4 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Story`.`id`, `Story`.`created`, `Story`.`modified`, `Story`.`status`, `Story`.`publish_at`, `Story`.`unpublish_at`, `Story`.`type`, `Story`.`luxury_news`, `Story`.`advertorial`, `Story`.`people_story`, `Story`.`top_list`, `Story`.`title`, `Story`.`deck`, `Story`.`author`, `Story`.`content`, `Story`.`video_link`, `Story`.`tags`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel_until`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top_until`, `Story`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Story`.`seo_meta_description`, `Story`.`slug`, `Story`.`category`, `Story`.`columnist_id`, `Story`.`nid`, `Story`.`pview`, `Story`.`display_type`, `Story`.`source`, `Story`.`region`, `Story`.`region_id`, `Story`.`user_id`, `Story`.`region_modified`, `Story`.`full_advertorial`, `Story`.`to_tatler_tv`, `Story`.`tatlerball2015`, `Story`.`tatlerball2016`, `Story`.`author_id`, `Story`.`copyright`, `Columnist`.`id`, `Columnist`.`created`, `Columnist`.`modified`, `Columnist`.`type`, `Columnist`.`category`, `Columnist`.`status`, `Columnist`.`publish_at`, `Columnist`.`unpublish_at`, `Columnist`.`name`, `Columnist`.`bio`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_description`, `Columnist`.`slug`, `Author`.`id`, `Author`.`created`, `Author`.`modified`, `Author`.`type`, `Author`.`category`, `Author`.`status`, `Author`.`publish_at`, `Author`.`unpublish_at`, `Author`.`name`, `Author`.`bio`, `Author`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Author`.`seo_meta_description`, `Author`.`slug` FROM `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`columnists` AS `Columnist` ON (`Story`.`columnist_id` = `Columnist`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`authors` AS `Author` ON (`Story`.`author_id` = `Author`.`id`) WHERE `Story`.`status` = '1' AND `Story`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Story`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Story`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) AND NOT (`Story`.`id` = 5164) AND `Story`.`type` = 'party' AND `Story`.`publish_at` BETWEEN NOW() - INTERVAL 30 DAY AND NOW() AND (`Story`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Story`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) ORDER BY `Story`.`pview` DESC LIMIT 5 | 0 | 0 | 1 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Story`.`id`, `Story`.`created`, `Story`.`modified`, `Story`.`status`, `Story`.`publish_at`, `Story`.`unpublish_at`, `Story`.`type`, `Story`.`luxury_news`, `Story`.`advertorial`, `Story`.`people_story`, `Story`.`top_list`, `Story`.`title`, `Story`.`deck`, `Story`.`author`, `Story`.`content`, `Story`.`video_link`, `Story`.`tags`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel_until`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top_until`, `Story`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Story`.`seo_meta_description`, `Story`.`slug`, `Story`.`category`, `Story`.`columnist_id`, `Story`.`nid`, `Story`.`pview`, `Story`.`display_type`, `Story`.`source`, `Story`.`region`, `Story`.`region_id`, `Story`.`user_id`, `Story`.`region_modified`, `Story`.`full_advertorial`, `Story`.`to_tatler_tv`, `Story`.`tatlerball2015`, `Story`.`tatlerball2016`, `Story`.`author_id`, `Story`.`copyright`, `Columnist`.`id`, `Columnist`.`created`, `Columnist`.`modified`, `Columnist`.`type`, `Columnist`.`category`, `Columnist`.`status`, `Columnist`.`publish_at`, `Columnist`.`unpublish_at`, `Columnist`.`name`, `Columnist`.`bio`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_description`, `Columnist`.`slug`, `Author`.`id`, `Author`.`created`, `Author`.`modified`, `Author`.`type`, `Author`.`category`, `Author`.`status`, `Author`.`publish_at`, `Author`.`unpublish_at`, `Author`.`name`, `Author`.`bio`, `Author`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Author`.`seo_meta_description`, `Author`.`slug` FROM `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`columnists` AS `Columnist` ON (`Story`.`columnist_id` = `Columnist`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`authors` AS `Author` ON (`Story`.`author_id` = `Author`.`id`) WHERE `Story`.`status` = '1' AND `Story`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Story`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Story`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) AND `Story`.`type` = 'party' AND `Story`.`id` < 5164 ORDER BY `Story`.`id` DESC LIMIT 1 | 1 | 1 | 4 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Image`.`id`, `Image`.`name`, `Image`.`filesize`, `Image`.`type`, `Image`.`caption`, `Image`.`object_type`, `Image`.`object_id`, `Image`.`source`, `Image`.`square_url`, `Image`.`square300_url`, `Image`.`square120_url`, `Image`.`thumb_url`, `Image`.`banner_url`, `Image`.`large_url`, `Image`.`popup_url`, `Image`.`h195_url`, `Image`.`carousel_large_url`, `Image`.`created`, `Image`.`alt`, `Image`.`people`, `Image`.`tags`, `Image`.`sort`, `Image`.`status`, `Image`.`publish_at`, `Image`.`unpublish_at`, `Image`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Image`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Image` WHERE `Image`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Image`.`object_id` = (5148) ORDER BY `Image`.`sort` ASC, `Image`.`created` ASC | 27 | 27 | 1 | |
SELECT `Gallery1`.`id`, `Gallery1`.`name`, `Gallery1`.`filesize`, `Gallery1`.`type`, `Gallery1`.`caption`, `Gallery1`.`object_type`, `Gallery1`.`object_id`, `Gallery1`.`source`, `Gallery1`.`square_url`, `Gallery1`.`square300_url`, `Gallery1`.`square120_url`, `Gallery1`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery1`.`banner_url`, `Gallery1`.`large_url`, `Gallery1`.`popup_url`, `Gallery1`.`h195_url`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery1`.`created`, `Gallery1`.`alt`, `Gallery1`.`people`, `Gallery1`.`tags`, `Gallery1`.`sort`, `Gallery1`.`status`, `Gallery1`.`publish_at`, `Gallery1`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery1`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery1` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery1' AND `Gallery1`.`object_id` = (5148) ORDER BY `Gallery1`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery1`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery2`.`id`, `Gallery2`.`name`, `Gallery2`.`filesize`, `Gallery2`.`type`, `Gallery2`.`caption`, `Gallery2`.`object_type`, `Gallery2`.`object_id`, `Gallery2`.`source`, `Gallery2`.`square_url`, `Gallery2`.`square300_url`, `Gallery2`.`square120_url`, `Gallery2`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery2`.`banner_url`, `Gallery2`.`large_url`, `Gallery2`.`popup_url`, `Gallery2`.`h195_url`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery2`.`created`, `Gallery2`.`alt`, `Gallery2`.`people`, `Gallery2`.`tags`, `Gallery2`.`sort`, `Gallery2`.`status`, `Gallery2`.`publish_at`, `Gallery2`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery2`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery2` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery2' AND `Gallery2`.`object_id` = (5148) ORDER BY `Gallery2`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery2`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery3`.`id`, `Gallery3`.`name`, `Gallery3`.`filesize`, `Gallery3`.`type`, `Gallery3`.`caption`, `Gallery3`.`object_type`, `Gallery3`.`object_id`, `Gallery3`.`source`, `Gallery3`.`square_url`, `Gallery3`.`square300_url`, `Gallery3`.`square120_url`, `Gallery3`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery3`.`banner_url`, `Gallery3`.`large_url`, `Gallery3`.`popup_url`, `Gallery3`.`h195_url`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery3`.`created`, `Gallery3`.`alt`, `Gallery3`.`people`, `Gallery3`.`tags`, `Gallery3`.`sort`, `Gallery3`.`status`, `Gallery3`.`publish_at`, `Gallery3`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery3`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery3` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery3' AND `Gallery3`.`object_id` = (5148) ORDER BY `Gallery3`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery3`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery4`.`id`, `Gallery4`.`name`, `Gallery4`.`filesize`, `Gallery4`.`type`, `Gallery4`.`caption`, `Gallery4`.`object_type`, `Gallery4`.`object_id`, `Gallery4`.`source`, `Gallery4`.`square_url`, `Gallery4`.`square300_url`, `Gallery4`.`square120_url`, `Gallery4`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery4`.`banner_url`, `Gallery4`.`large_url`, `Gallery4`.`popup_url`, `Gallery4`.`h195_url`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery4`.`created`, `Gallery4`.`alt`, `Gallery4`.`people`, `Gallery4`.`tags`, `Gallery4`.`sort`, `Gallery4`.`status`, `Gallery4`.`publish_at`, `Gallery4`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery4`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery4` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery4' AND `Gallery4`.`object_id` = (5148) ORDER BY `Gallery4`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery4`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Video`.`id`, `Video`.`title`, `Video`.`description`, `Video`.`source`, `Video`.`object_type`, `Video`.`object_id`, `Video`.`ext`, `Video`.`type`, `Video`.`size`, `Video`.`group`, `Video`.`width`, `Video`.`height`, `Video`.`filesize`, `Video`.`created`, `Video`.`status`, `Video`.`publish_at`, `Video`.`unpublish_at`, `Video`.`tags`, `Video`.`slug`, `Video`.`event`, `Video`.`behindscene`, `Video`.`old_source`, `Video`.`youtube` FROM `at_cn`.`videos` AS `Video` WHERE `Video`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Video`.`object_id` = (5148) ORDER BY `Video`.`created` DESC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Tag`.`id`, `Tag`.`identifier`, `Tag`.`name`, `Tag`.`keyname`, `Tag`.`weight`, `Tag`.`created`, `Tag`.`modified`, `Tagged`.`id`, `Tagged`.`foreign_key`, `Tagged`.`tag_id`, `Tagged`.`model`, `Tagged`.`language`, `Tagged`.`times_tagged`, `Tagged`.`created`, `Tagged`.`modified` FROM `at_cn`.`tags` AS `Tag` JOIN `at_cn`.`tagged` AS `Tagged` ON (`Tagged`.`foreign_key` = 5148 AND `Tagged`.`tag_id` = `Tag`.`id`) WHERE `Tagged`.`model` = 'Story' | 0 | 0 | 4 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Story`.`id`, `Story`.`created`, `Story`.`modified`, `Story`.`status`, `Story`.`publish_at`, `Story`.`unpublish_at`, `Story`.`type`, `Story`.`luxury_news`, `Story`.`advertorial`, `Story`.`people_story`, `Story`.`top_list`, `Story`.`title`, `Story`.`deck`, `Story`.`author`, `Story`.`content`, `Story`.`video_link`, `Story`.`tags`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel_until`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top_until`, `Story`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Story`.`seo_meta_description`, `Story`.`slug`, `Story`.`category`, `Story`.`columnist_id`, `Story`.`nid`, `Story`.`pview`, `Story`.`display_type`, `Story`.`source`, `Story`.`region`, `Story`.`region_id`, `Story`.`user_id`, `Story`.`region_modified`, `Story`.`full_advertorial`, `Story`.`to_tatler_tv`, `Story`.`tatlerball2015`, `Story`.`tatlerball2016`, `Story`.`author_id`, `Story`.`copyright`, `Columnist`.`id`, `Columnist`.`created`, `Columnist`.`modified`, `Columnist`.`type`, `Columnist`.`category`, `Columnist`.`status`, `Columnist`.`publish_at`, `Columnist`.`unpublish_at`, `Columnist`.`name`, `Columnist`.`bio`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_description`, `Columnist`.`slug`, `Author`.`id`, `Author`.`created`, `Author`.`modified`, `Author`.`type`, `Author`.`category`, `Author`.`status`, `Author`.`publish_at`, `Author`.`unpublish_at`, `Author`.`name`, `Author`.`bio`, `Author`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Author`.`seo_meta_description`, `Author`.`slug` FROM `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`columnists` AS `Columnist` ON (`Story`.`columnist_id` = `Columnist`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`authors` AS `Author` ON (`Story`.`author_id` = `Author`.`id`) WHERE `Story`.`status` = '1' AND `Story`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Story`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Story`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) AND `Story`.`type` = 'party' AND `Story`.`id` >= 5148 AND `Story`.`id` != 5164 ORDER BY `Story`.`id` ASC LIMIT 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | |
SELECT `Image`.`id`, `Image`.`name`, `Image`.`filesize`, `Image`.`type`, `Image`.`caption`, `Image`.`object_type`, `Image`.`object_id`, `Image`.`source`, `Image`.`square_url`, `Image`.`square300_url`, `Image`.`square120_url`, `Image`.`thumb_url`, `Image`.`banner_url`, `Image`.`large_url`, `Image`.`popup_url`, `Image`.`h195_url`, `Image`.`carousel_large_url`, `Image`.`created`, `Image`.`alt`, `Image`.`people`, `Image`.`tags`, `Image`.`sort`, `Image`.`status`, `Image`.`publish_at`, `Image`.`unpublish_at`, `Image`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Image`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Image` WHERE `Image`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Image`.`object_id` IN (5148, 5196) ORDER BY `Image`.`sort` ASC, `Image`.`created` ASC | 68 | 68 | 1 | |
SELECT `Gallery1`.`id`, `Gallery1`.`name`, `Gallery1`.`filesize`, `Gallery1`.`type`, `Gallery1`.`caption`, `Gallery1`.`object_type`, `Gallery1`.`object_id`, `Gallery1`.`source`, `Gallery1`.`square_url`, `Gallery1`.`square300_url`, `Gallery1`.`square120_url`, `Gallery1`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery1`.`banner_url`, `Gallery1`.`large_url`, `Gallery1`.`popup_url`, `Gallery1`.`h195_url`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery1`.`created`, `Gallery1`.`alt`, `Gallery1`.`people`, `Gallery1`.`tags`, `Gallery1`.`sort`, `Gallery1`.`status`, `Gallery1`.`publish_at`, `Gallery1`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery1`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery1` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery1' AND `Gallery1`.`object_id` IN (5148, 5196) ORDER BY `Gallery1`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery1`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery2`.`id`, `Gallery2`.`name`, `Gallery2`.`filesize`, `Gallery2`.`type`, `Gallery2`.`caption`, `Gallery2`.`object_type`, `Gallery2`.`object_id`, `Gallery2`.`source`, `Gallery2`.`square_url`, `Gallery2`.`square300_url`, `Gallery2`.`square120_url`, `Gallery2`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery2`.`banner_url`, `Gallery2`.`large_url`, `Gallery2`.`popup_url`, `Gallery2`.`h195_url`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery2`.`created`, `Gallery2`.`alt`, `Gallery2`.`people`, `Gallery2`.`tags`, `Gallery2`.`sort`, `Gallery2`.`status`, `Gallery2`.`publish_at`, `Gallery2`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery2`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery2` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery2' AND `Gallery2`.`object_id` IN (5148, 5196) ORDER BY `Gallery2`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery2`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery3`.`id`, `Gallery3`.`name`, `Gallery3`.`filesize`, `Gallery3`.`type`, `Gallery3`.`caption`, `Gallery3`.`object_type`, `Gallery3`.`object_id`, `Gallery3`.`source`, `Gallery3`.`square_url`, `Gallery3`.`square300_url`, `Gallery3`.`square120_url`, `Gallery3`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery3`.`banner_url`, `Gallery3`.`large_url`, `Gallery3`.`popup_url`, `Gallery3`.`h195_url`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery3`.`created`, `Gallery3`.`alt`, `Gallery3`.`people`, `Gallery3`.`tags`, `Gallery3`.`sort`, `Gallery3`.`status`, `Gallery3`.`publish_at`, `Gallery3`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery3`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery3` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery3' AND `Gallery3`.`object_id` IN (5148, 5196) ORDER BY `Gallery3`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery3`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery4`.`id`, `Gallery4`.`name`, `Gallery4`.`filesize`, `Gallery4`.`type`, `Gallery4`.`caption`, `Gallery4`.`object_type`, `Gallery4`.`object_id`, `Gallery4`.`source`, `Gallery4`.`square_url`, `Gallery4`.`square300_url`, `Gallery4`.`square120_url`, `Gallery4`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery4`.`banner_url`, `Gallery4`.`large_url`, `Gallery4`.`popup_url`, `Gallery4`.`h195_url`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery4`.`created`, `Gallery4`.`alt`, `Gallery4`.`people`, `Gallery4`.`tags`, `Gallery4`.`sort`, `Gallery4`.`status`, `Gallery4`.`publish_at`, `Gallery4`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery4`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery4` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery4' AND `Gallery4`.`object_id` IN (5148, 5196) ORDER BY `Gallery4`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery4`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Video`.`id`, `Video`.`title`, `Video`.`description`, `Video`.`source`, `Video`.`object_type`, `Video`.`object_id`, `Video`.`ext`, `Video`.`type`, `Video`.`size`, `Video`.`group`, `Video`.`width`, `Video`.`height`, `Video`.`filesize`, `Video`.`created`, `Video`.`status`, `Video`.`publish_at`, `Video`.`unpublish_at`, `Video`.`tags`, `Video`.`slug`, `Video`.`event`, `Video`.`behindscene`, `Video`.`old_source`, `Video`.`youtube` FROM `at_cn`.`videos` AS `Video` WHERE `Video`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Video`.`object_id` IN (5148, 5196) ORDER BY `Video`.`created` DESC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Tag`.`id`, `Tag`.`identifier`, `Tag`.`name`, `Tag`.`keyname`, `Tag`.`weight`, `Tag`.`created`, `Tag`.`modified`, `Tagged`.`id`, `Tagged`.`foreign_key`, `Tagged`.`tag_id`, `Tagged`.`model`, `Tagged`.`language`, `Tagged`.`times_tagged`, `Tagged`.`created`, `Tagged`.`modified` FROM `at_cn`.`tags` AS `Tag` JOIN `at_cn`.`tagged` AS `Tagged` ON (`Tagged`.`foreign_key` IN (5148, 5196) AND `Tagged`.`tag_id` = `Tag`.`id`) WHERE `Tagged`.`model` = 'Story' | 8 | 8 | 4 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Story`.`id`, `Story`.`created`, `Story`.`modified`, `Story`.`status`, `Story`.`publish_at`, `Story`.`unpublish_at`, `Story`.`type`, `Story`.`luxury_news`, `Story`.`advertorial`, `Story`.`people_story`, `Story`.`top_list`, `Story`.`title`, `Story`.`deck`, `Story`.`author`, `Story`.`content`, `Story`.`video_link`, `Story`.`tags`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel`, `Story`.`stick_to_top_panel_until`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top`, `Story`.`stick_to_landing_top_until`, `Story`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Story`.`seo_meta_description`, `Story`.`slug`, `Story`.`category`, `Story`.`columnist_id`, `Story`.`nid`, `Story`.`pview`, `Story`.`display_type`, `Story`.`source`, `Story`.`region`, `Story`.`region_id`, `Story`.`user_id`, `Story`.`region_modified`, `Story`.`full_advertorial`, `Story`.`to_tatler_tv`, `Story`.`tatlerball2015`, `Story`.`tatlerball2016`, `Story`.`author_id`, `Story`.`copyright`, `Columnist`.`id`, `Columnist`.`created`, `Columnist`.`modified`, `Columnist`.`type`, `Columnist`.`category`, `Columnist`.`status`, `Columnist`.`publish_at`, `Columnist`.`unpublish_at`, `Columnist`.`name`, `Columnist`.`bio`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Columnist`.`seo_meta_description`, `Columnist`.`slug`, `Author`.`id`, `Author`.`created`, `Author`.`modified`, `Author`.`type`, `Author`.`category`, `Author`.`status`, `Author`.`publish_at`, `Author`.`unpublish_at`, `Author`.`name`, `Author`.`bio`, `Author`.`seo_meta_keywords`, `Author`.`seo_meta_description`, `Author`.`slug` FROM `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`columnists` AS `Columnist` ON (`Story`.`columnist_id` = `Columnist`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`authors` AS `Author` ON (`Story`.`author_id` = `Author`.`id`) WHERE `Story`.`status` = '1' AND `Story`.`id` != 5164 AND `Story`.`publish_at` <= NOW() AND (`Story`.`unpublish_at` IS NULL OR `Story`.`unpublish_at` > NOW()) AND `Story`.`type` = 'party' ORDER BY `Story`.`publish_at` DESC LIMIT 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | |
SELECT `Image`.`id`, `Image`.`name`, `Image`.`filesize`, `Image`.`type`, `Image`.`caption`, `Image`.`object_type`, `Image`.`object_id`, `Image`.`source`, `Image`.`square_url`, `Image`.`square300_url`, `Image`.`square120_url`, `Image`.`thumb_url`, `Image`.`banner_url`, `Image`.`large_url`, `Image`.`popup_url`, `Image`.`h195_url`, `Image`.`carousel_large_url`, `Image`.`created`, `Image`.`alt`, `Image`.`people`, `Image`.`tags`, `Image`.`sort`, `Image`.`status`, `Image`.`publish_at`, `Image`.`unpublish_at`, `Image`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Image`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Image` WHERE `Image`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Image`.`object_id` IN (6294, 6272, 6116, 6005, 5867) ORDER BY `Image`.`sort` ASC, `Image`.`created` ASC | 81 | 81 | 2 | |
SELECT `Gallery1`.`id`, `Gallery1`.`name`, `Gallery1`.`filesize`, `Gallery1`.`type`, `Gallery1`.`caption`, `Gallery1`.`object_type`, `Gallery1`.`object_id`, `Gallery1`.`source`, `Gallery1`.`square_url`, `Gallery1`.`square300_url`, `Gallery1`.`square120_url`, `Gallery1`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery1`.`banner_url`, `Gallery1`.`large_url`, `Gallery1`.`popup_url`, `Gallery1`.`h195_url`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery1`.`created`, `Gallery1`.`alt`, `Gallery1`.`people`, `Gallery1`.`tags`, `Gallery1`.`sort`, `Gallery1`.`status`, `Gallery1`.`publish_at`, `Gallery1`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery1`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery1`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery1` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery1' AND `Gallery1`.`object_id` IN (6294, 6272, 6116, 6005, 5867) ORDER BY `Gallery1`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery1`.`created` ASC | 12 | 12 | 1 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Gallery2`.`id`, `Gallery2`.`name`, `Gallery2`.`filesize`, `Gallery2`.`type`, `Gallery2`.`caption`, `Gallery2`.`object_type`, `Gallery2`.`object_id`, `Gallery2`.`source`, `Gallery2`.`square_url`, `Gallery2`.`square300_url`, `Gallery2`.`square120_url`, `Gallery2`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery2`.`banner_url`, `Gallery2`.`large_url`, `Gallery2`.`popup_url`, `Gallery2`.`h195_url`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery2`.`created`, `Gallery2`.`alt`, `Gallery2`.`people`, `Gallery2`.`tags`, `Gallery2`.`sort`, `Gallery2`.`status`, `Gallery2`.`publish_at`, `Gallery2`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery2`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery2`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery2` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery2' AND `Gallery2`.`object_id` IN (6294, 6272, 6116, 6005, 5867) ORDER BY `Gallery2`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery2`.`created` ASC | 14 | 14 | 1 | maybe slow |
SELECT `Gallery3`.`id`, `Gallery3`.`name`, `Gallery3`.`filesize`, `Gallery3`.`type`, `Gallery3`.`caption`, `Gallery3`.`object_type`, `Gallery3`.`object_id`, `Gallery3`.`source`, `Gallery3`.`square_url`, `Gallery3`.`square300_url`, `Gallery3`.`square120_url`, `Gallery3`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery3`.`banner_url`, `Gallery3`.`large_url`, `Gallery3`.`popup_url`, `Gallery3`.`h195_url`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery3`.`created`, `Gallery3`.`alt`, `Gallery3`.`people`, `Gallery3`.`tags`, `Gallery3`.`sort`, `Gallery3`.`status`, `Gallery3`.`publish_at`, `Gallery3`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery3`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery3`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery3` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery3' AND `Gallery3`.`object_id` IN (6294, 6272, 6116, 6005, 5867) ORDER BY `Gallery3`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery3`.`created` ASC | 5 | 5 | 0 | |
SELECT `Gallery4`.`id`, `Gallery4`.`name`, `Gallery4`.`filesize`, `Gallery4`.`type`, `Gallery4`.`caption`, `Gallery4`.`object_type`, `Gallery4`.`object_id`, `Gallery4`.`source`, `Gallery4`.`square_url`, `Gallery4`.`square300_url`, `Gallery4`.`square120_url`, `Gallery4`.`thumb_url`, `Gallery4`.`banner_url`, `Gallery4`.`large_url`, `Gallery4`.`popup_url`, `Gallery4`.`h195_url`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_large_url`, `Gallery4`.`created`, `Gallery4`.`alt`, `Gallery4`.`people`, `Gallery4`.`tags`, `Gallery4`.`sort`, `Gallery4`.`status`, `Gallery4`.`publish_at`, `Gallery4`.`unpublish_at`, `Gallery4`.`carousel_fw_url`, `Gallery4`.`mobile_cover` FROM `at_cn`.`images` AS `Gallery4` WHERE `object_type` = 'gallery4' AND `Gallery4`.`object_id` IN (6294, 6272, 6116, 6005, 5867) ORDER BY `Gallery4`.`sort` ASC, `Gallery4`.`created` ASC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Video`.`id`, `Video`.`title`, `Video`.`description`, `Video`.`source`, `Video`.`object_type`, `Video`.`object_id`, `Video`.`ext`, `Video`.`type`, `Video`.`size`, `Video`.`group`, `Video`.`width`, `Video`.`height`, `Video`.`filesize`, `Video`.`created`, `Video`.`status`, `Video`.`publish_at`, `Video`.`unpublish_at`, `Video`.`tags`, `Video`.`slug`, `Video`.`event`, `Video`.`behindscene`, `Video`.`old_source`, `Video`.`youtube` FROM `at_cn`.`videos` AS `Video` WHERE `Video`.`object_type` = 'story' AND `Video`.`object_id` IN (6294, 6272, 6116, 6005, 5867) ORDER BY `Video`.`created` DESC | 0 | 0 | 0 | |
SELECT `Tag`.`id`, `Tag`.`identifier`, `Tag`.`name`, `Tag`.`keyname`, `Tag`.`weight`, `Tag`.`created`, `Tag`.`modified`, `Tagged`.`id`, `Tagged`.`foreign_key`, `Tagged`.`tag_id`, `Tagged`.`model`, `Tagged`.`language`, `Tagged`.`times_tagged`, `Tagged`.`created`, `Tagged`.`modified` FROM `at_cn`.`tags` AS `Tag` JOIN `at_cn`.`tagged` AS `Tagged` ON (`Tagged`.`foreign_key` IN (6294, 6272, 6116, 6005, 5867) AND `Tagged`.`tag_id` = `Tag`.`id`) WHERE `Tagged`.`model` = 'Story' | 0 | 0 | 4 | maybe slow |
UPDATE `at_cn`.`stories` AS `Story` LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`columnists` AS `Columnist` ON (`Story`.`columnist_id` = `Columnist`.`id`) LEFT JOIN `at_cn`.`authors` AS `Author` ON (`Story`.`author_id` = `Author`.`id`) SET `Story`.`pview` = Story.pview + 1 WHERE `Story`.`id` = 5164 | 1 | 1 | 2 | maybe slow |
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